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Comments
In my experience, the seat belt light only comes on when there is a weight in a seat, and that seat's belt is not buckled. In certain years, GM products had a starter inhibition circuit, which was activated when a seat belt was not buckled in an occupied seat. Sometimes the weight sensor in the seat cushion malfunctions. When that happens, the seat belt light will activate for a seat that has no weight on it; and then the starter will not operate. Try buckling BOTH seat belts before you insert the key, and then see if the starter works. They may even have done that to the rear seats (although I doubt it), but if all else fails; buckle the rear seat belts, too. Alternatively, it is easy to just unplug the weight sensors (that circuit is normally open when the seat is not occupied).
In addition to the 3 dash lights you noted, the check engine light should be lit when you turn the key on before starting the engine. If it used to work before, and now does not; this could be a sign of a PCM problem. But the first thing I would check about that issue is whether the bulb for the check engine light is burned out. I'm not familiar with the way they set that up, but it might be that, in order to foil emission tampering, they inhibit the starter operation if the check engine light is disconnected (or the bulb is out).
Many air conditioned GM vehicles have ventilation fans which cannot be completely turned off. So your fan may be acting normally. And the radio, along with many other electrical items, is designed to shut off when the starter is activated, in order to supply all available battery power to the starter and ignition system.
When you decided to become a mechanic, I bet you never expected the work to involve dealing with so many complicating non-mechanical issues, which were created by politicians, company attorneys and bureaucrats!!!
Look this guy up. He always has what I need for my past metros.
Old Guys, L.L.C.
That's the name of the company. He is in Phoenix
Got a website link?
Thanks in advance.
BTW, I looked up to see what I could find for a used geo on intellichoice.com
Only 1 in a 5000 mile radius! That is a 97 and they want something like nearly $3k!
http://tinyurl.com/ynkuns
I have a total of about 1k in mine. That includes new tires and alloy wheels.
Steve B.
why did they stop? agreement between GM and other countries(G-E-O) finally expired. Chevy made them 1 or 2 years after that then discontiued them. a GREAT Movie to watch is "WHO KILLED THE ELECTRIC CAR" available at Netflix...
So, I bought a Prius, $27,000 but I get 50+mpg, but it is a SLUG in the snow, especially in reverse ! H-O-R-R-I-B-L-E !! :lemon:
Now I have a few geo's1994 metro 45 mpg [have done better then 50mpg], 1998 metro 4cly 35ish mpg and a prizm 4 door that pushes 40 mpg at freeway speeds. Plus a small gm pick up and a must have parts supply [parts car}. Now to look at this from a fuel useage point of veiw A 2005 chevy pickup v8 gets about 30ish that add's up to a 300% increase. now a days a small car with gas only eng today gets 40ish that is only a 15% increase from the old pintos mileage. Now with that out of the way the people we have in charge in this counrty need to lead us full heartly into more engergy saving lifestyles. The media also needs to do so. We have known for 35 years how easy our apple cart of fuel supplys can be tipped over by others in this world. We have run in and out of high fuel prices and supplys of fuel, that have lead us to worry only short termed. We have seen car co's make some great little cars that have work and are for the most part as safe if not more safe in some cases then bigger vehicles We all need to want to save fuel and ours selfs in the process. To demand co's like GM and others to make good fuel mileage cars like the old metros were. I miss seeing that little 3cly in a new car I have heard of other countrys that do have them still being made but they are not here do to safety standards. Well what else can I say we need to be as free as we can from nutty countys like Iraq or Iran. So we have control [or at least more control
] over our fuel supplys and useage
got the car used and it was badly maintained.
also, anyone know where I can get a timing belt cover? The old belt was loose and ripped up the cover.
Many thanks,
JonB
You can order a new timing belt cover from your local Chevrolet dealer, but you can also get a used one for less money from a wrecking yard. Many wrecking yards have an interchange book that lists the range of Metro model years with timing covers that will fit your car.
You take care of it, it will take care of you!
I'm quite anxious for monday. I found a brand new XFi cam that I'm putting in my 2 door Geo (Espresso Nero). Better fuel economy and better torque in 1-2-3.
At the other end, I am changing to the final drive gears from a 4 cylinder SOHC tranny. This will lower my RPM's from 3000 to 2500 at 65 miles an hour. I got these drive gears from yung'ones going the other direction: POWER and SPEED ! So they keep breaking their GT tranny's. As the GS tranny's have the same gearing, except the final drive, they rely on this supply but discard the slower gears. One's garbage is another's treasure applies well here.
If anybody want a direct contact link for a gear set. Do not hesitate to ask. This speed shop demon wants 100 for the set (excellent condition)or FREE if you want to exchange a GT set. The GS set that you find on the 1,3 SOHC has 74 teeth on the ring and 21 on the drive. You can learn all about this on metrompg.
Toodle-dee-doo.
What's a good safe cruising speed for a 92 2 door 5 spd. Everything in her is stock?????
But that only applies to an engine which is in good mechanical condition, and is kept properly tuned. If the engine doesn't run as well as it could, then it may not be able to sustain high speeds or heavy loads without suffering some damage. Bad gas which makes it ping frequently will also cause damage. So will having the ignition timing too far advanced, or using a spark plug which is too hot for the engine.
This very morning, this friday 25th in about two hours I am dropping in a XFi cam in Espresso Nero !!!!!
Just drop it in. Period. You will get better low end torque and it will improve gas milleage.
Last week I installed the ring and pinion gear (final drive gears) from a SOHC (single overhead cam) 4 cylinder in my 3 banger. At 100 km the RPM's are at 2520 instead of 3000. They would be at 3500 if I had the automatic.
You don't have to change the ecu or anything else either. For a LOT more information on these fuel economy measures go to metrompg.com and ecomodder.com
What I will do next is chisel some Singh grooves.
What it really was, was a slug.
Weight by itself does nothing for performance or handling. In fact, it degrades it.
Take a look at any race car, boat etc, and you'll see lightweight characteristics throughout, especially in the ends.
Over the years, I've owned a lot of fast boats both power and sail and there's nothing better than keeping the weight down (and what weight you have properly placed) if you want good performance and handling. The same goes for cars.
I went back to message 1 on this board to find out what post #1254 was all about and all I can say is, take a car handling course if you really want to find out about what makes a car do what it does. Bob Bondurant or similar courses are a great learning experience and worth every penny.
In the late '80's, my wife and I went for a full day course at Seattle International Raceway and had a ball learning how to react in 50mph skids and emergency stops on wet courses while driving brand new Audi's.
I've owned Porche 911's, a Saab 900 turbo, and several other performance cars most of them purchased new. I currently own a Chrysler 300m as well as my "toy car" a '95 Geo. Driving the Geo is more like sailing a dinghy whereas driving a large car is more like piloting a boat. (Although my 300M certainly does not drive like a boat LOL!)
Basically, a larger car with a longer wheelbase responds a little slower to directional forces. The Geo will behave the same way as any bigger car, but due to the smaller mass, things just happen a little faster. Keep that fact in mind and you'll be fine.
I've got aftermarket 13x6 alloy wheels and good tires. It's a ball to bend the car around corners and with over 164k on the odo I get high 40's for mileage.
Steve B.
in the words of Ettore bugatti : You have to add lightness !
I have 4 geos. 2 convertibles, one 2 door coup and one 4 door coup. All with 5 speed.
I never lost control of the vehicle in winter or summer. I'm very agrresive driver but very defensive "observer driver". You can drive Porsche 911 or Saab turbo 9'5, or Masseratti. If you "handicap" driver with diploma from any defensive school driving skills, no help for you. You are in the hands of the driver with "brains" and experience of handling the vehicle. I own really sport 1987 535 IS BMW with 325 HP, Mercedes 1969 6.3 with 365 HP, and few mores. Never have any problems loosing control, or take any defensive school driving skills. Learn by self and respect people. Their behavior on the road will tell you everything. Just observe and use their mistakes to advance your driving skills. No school will help you if you are scare to drive, talk on phone, have I POD on or computer lop tap on the steering wheel.
Just control the car and not let the car control you.
By the way - I have Pinto 1974 - I modified the German engine for better performance, change the front suspension, replaced the rear fuel tank support, replaced for better wider tires - the car was rocket luncher on the road. Not the "tank".
Eleminate your hanicap driving skills by using your eyes, mirrors, and use you brain - not the excitmenet.
Good luck. Mark
Truly the best way of roaming. I agree.
I've never seen a spec on number of turns out. (Probably because this screw is so sensitive) If it is set close to the correct point, a change of 1/16 turn can make a significant difference in idle quality. So the best way to adjust it is by using an infra-red exhaust analyzer, and tuning for the lowest hydrocarbon level. Any adjustment must be done with the engine at normal operating temperature, ignition timing is properly set, and the engine has fresh spark plugs of the correct heat range.
If you are sensitive to your engine's sound, it can be adjusted by ear: Turn the screw clockwise until the engine begins to run rough. Make a note of that point. Then turn the screw counterclockwise until the engine smooths out completely. With experience, you can learn to recognize the 'sweet spot'. This is a sharp peak, where it runs smoothest. Any movement in either direction will make it less smooth. The roughening when it is too rich has a different character than when it is too lean, but they both are rougher than the peak. I usually hold one hand on top of the air filter, so I can feel the engine when it begins to miss. This technique works better than just listening to the exhaust.
will you have rear drive and single wheel up front?
i had 13" wheels the largest i could sqeeze up front on my
geo metro. I can get you the size.. i had to use washers as the bolts would pull thorugh the tire. they failed me at inspection so now i'm back to the 12" tires.
you would have to change the lug bolts..
i found that at hight speed .. trucks would really knock me around iwth the larger tires. they hardly rubbed on tight turns..
please send me a picture of your project or better yet put it on youtube..com
areyou getting a permit from the state/?
you better so that it is street legal i want to make a stream lined one
rear drive single wheel up front and make it really aerodynamic.
i figure it will get 80 mpg ..
Is very sensitive. better check on another side the T.B.positining sensor. Should read between 0.98 - 1.02 volts. This way you got perfect set up.
On model with upgrade sysytem, the idle is adjusted by "electrical motor" mounted on ythe back of the TB.
On early model is set by the computer amd the the TB positioning sensor.
If youi need adjust the screw - if really nessesery - please adjust on hot engine and set the engine running up to 1050/1100 rpm.
When the engine will be cold you will need warm the engine for period of two minutes or more ( depend on outside temp) to help run the adjustment on cold condiition. If you wilol try to adjust the srew in cold condition, later when the engine will warm up - you will run the engine in hot around 1500 rpm.
Mark - any questions, let men know.
I will remove w/out puller, but you will need puller.
Spark - what color is the spark? Maybe to much fuel in the spark and the spark is to wet to ignite the combustion. Maybe the compression is to low or gone.
Check compression on cold engine:
remove all spark plugs
remove fuse from fuel injection system
instal in the cyl. 1 compression reader
seat in the car
push the accelerator pedal down
cranck the engine 8 times
read and note the compression
check all cylinders.
You shoul have in worst to ignite the engine 140 PSI
If is very low on all cylinders you will need check another iotems.
First is first.
Distributor cap. When you were messing with the e brake did blow the fuse
on the neutral switch. Check all the fuses under magnifying glass for hairline
cracks in the plastic. Did you disconnect the battery before you removed the
plugs. The Plugs have a fairly wide cap make sure you look at the Emmission
sticker to get the right gap.
I'm new to the forum. I have a 92 GEO Metro 1L, 3 cyl. I have an intermittent problem with my auto transmission. Sometimes it stays in 3rd gear when I put it in D. I can go to low and shift it manually and it works fine. It doesn's matter if it's hot or cold outside. Any thoughts? :confuse:
Start by changing the oil in it. Flush it and renew. Then come back here.
I would expect more like 45 to 50 mpg. The tires are new with 35 psi, compression is 180 psi on all 3 cylinders, the plugs, wires, timing etc are all good, but the exhaust pipe is black with a slight soot on the back of the car.
The Chilton's manual is only slightly better than useless when it comes to diagnosing the fuel system.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to lean out the mixture?
:confuse:
Thanks in advance,
Steve B.
What type of fuel are you using. Try running with a different brand. The engine
was not designed to run on high alcohol content. That black soot tells me the
rings could be worn what's the odometer read. Do not mess with the carb setting
because it can screw up the EPA stuff in the engine. Check all vacumn lines
and rubber connection for a good seal before you mess with the carb!
At any rate,I wouldn't try to modify the factory mixture settings. My experience is that they come spot on. But if you want to search for faults, the first thing I would do to sort out this situation is to replace the oxygen sensor in the exhaust headpipe. Get a good quality sensor; either Bosch or NTK. It might also be worthwhile to replace the inlet air temperature sensor, in the air filter housing. The other thing I'd do is to clean out the EGR valve, and the associated passages in the intake manifold, which sometimes can become clogged with carbon deposits. Also, be sure the coolant thermostat is operating properly; the temperature gauge should quickly rise to at least 1/3 way up the gauge, within the first mile or two of driving. If it doesn't, then replace the thermostat.
Beyond that; Metro engines are incredibly sensitive to ANY changes made to the ignition timing, brands and types of ignition coils, spark plugs, and to the intake or exhaust system. If any of those items have been modified; even it the car now feels more powerful; it is very likely that the changes have upset the mixture settings and reduced your mileage. Take it from someone who has spent the last 16 years working with retuning this model engine. The factory fuel delivery map is pre-programmed into the computer. There is nothing that can be done to improve that curve, unless you get a computer specialist to change the factory map. Changing the muffler or intake will just make the mileage worse. The external settings are not useful for improving the mixture in that respect.
Thanks so much for your detailed post!
I will check the output from the oxygen sensor with my oscilloscope.
(I used to fix electronic stuff for a living)
At least the Chilton manual covers that stuff.
As you have probably already read in this forum, I recently replaced a bad exhaust valve and cleaned out the EGR passages which were pretty full of carbon.
Of course I replaced all the related gaskets and torqued to specs.
The temperature gauge reads like it always has (before the exh. valve replacement when I got 45 mpg with 120 psi on one cylinder) , and there's no evidence of under/overheating. The temperature where I live averages around 45 degrees this time of year.
I am absolutely sure I properly set the cam timing when I replaced the belt. The engine idle smoothness, rpm and overall power and torque is noticeably better than before the valve replacement.
The ignition timing is where it was before, (following scribe marks), but I have a question about the timing procedure where the Chilton manual talks about jumping a 6 pin plug. They tell you to jump terminals #D and E, but don't give you ANY PICTURE OF WHICH IS WHICH!! I have a timing light, but if I can't follow the directions in the manual, what good is it?
Specifically, it says,
"# 7. On a four pin connector: jump terminals C and D. On six pin connectors, jump terminals D and E." Aim the timing light at the mark, blah blah blah....
NO pictures of the plug. Not even a crude drawing. Grrrr.
I did replace the muffler about 3 months ago (which was rusted out) with a fake original.
The air cleaner filter is not new but very clean. You can see lots of light through it.
The mileage drop happened quite recently so the first thing I suspect is the gasoline source. I succumbed to 2 cents cheaper at the local 76 station. (they used to be the highest priced stations years ago! what does that say?)
It may be awhile until I am able to find the answer, please be patient. I will follow all your recommendations and hopefully achieve mileage nirvana!
Looking forward to 50mpg,
Steve B.
Get the 13 inch wheels for any swift, geo or frefly. The convertible came with 13 inch. You will need 155-80-13 tires. You will also need to upgrade those acorn nuts holding the wheels because the holes are made for 12mm studs and you have 10 mm. So, get to Summit racing and buy the Gorilla nuts number 41117. They have much bigger seats at the proper taper. Only 6 bucks or so for a set of 4. You need 4 sets. Then you are in business. For winter tires and general good fuel economy I like them on the skinny side. Too bad you are not in Quebec, good second hand 13 inch wheels are almost free. You can contact this fellow, he has a container load of wheels and compared to new ones...with shipping...who knows: pbolan@consultant.com
P.S. Those wide Michelins on such a light car just grip like glue. The other day, a hotshoe on a sportbike was following me on a windy mountain road, obviously looking for a spot to pass. We came to a sweeping curve, which was posted at 25 MPH, I went into it at 35, and the car felt so solid that I didn't slow down. The bike rider stayed right with me at first; but as we kept going deeper into the turn, I saw him leaning over further and further. Suddenly, he dropped way back, and obviously panicked. He didn't come near me for miles after that.
The blower switch was faulty on my car too.
The blower switch is constructed poorly.
Remove bezel and take 2 tie wraps and wrap around the switch.
Pull tight you will have all speeds working.
Good Luck