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Comments
They come up very rarely around here however. Last one listed needed piston rings and that scared me away.
Can anyone give me pointers as to where certain things are soon to fail, like timing belts at what mileage points so when I look at them I know what I'm in for? Thanks for any tips!
labor I got part for 8.00 on line. The alternator belt and bracket also replaced
got bracket at junk yard for 5.00 .The rebuilt Alternator cost 50.00 the belt
8.00 . I have a 1993 Geo with 121,000 miles gets about 30 MPG.
I need to replace the 1st/2nd synchro on my '95 Geo and the clutch is fine.
It's nearly impssible to get into 2nd gear when first starting out in the morning, but after it warms up it will go in, but it grinds a bit and downshifting to first or second requires double clutching.
It's a project for the summertime for me.
The synchronizers ( like sombody already stated) are problem, but I will not fixed.
I will wait for the time when clutch will be "low" ad replaced the clutch and rebuild the transmission.
I have similar problem on my Geo 1991 with 45 000 miles and first gear and second is giving some "small" problems. I just learned from the car when you drive when you can switch the gear from second to one, or when you stop the car for traffic lights - before you stop - rolling the car on slow speed - move the gear from two to one. It ios not big problem. After 3 years driving the car durnig the Summer ( convertible) the synchro is giving me less problem.
Find the speed between the first and second, when the gear will engage easy. Second - check the oil level in the trans, maybe to low? mark
There should be just a small amount of play in the pedal before you feel resistance.
The nut adjusts this play. As you screw it down the threads toward the back of the car, it will lessen the clutch free play.
Unfortunately, the synchros are not adjustable. When they're shot, they're shot and you have to disassemble the tranny.
Steve B.
Before any adjustment on cable, please check the "clutch play" inside the vehicle.
Using the finger, push gently the clutch pedal. Easy must move down around 1" ( one inch) before you will feel any resistance.
If you have the "play" one inch( aprox) you are OK. IF you need to adjust, let me know.
To fix the synchro's, will be nessesesery to remove the transmission and rebiuld all unit. This can cost around $ 1000.00 including the new clutch, t/out bearing, new flywheel, pressure plate. Also replace the starter. One time job, they should not charge you for the labor on starter, because is including in the price of rebulding the transmission.
I will not replaced the synchro yet. Learn about the switchng the gears on different low speed and should help you. I'm driving every day over 120 miles. Small car, but is saving me $ 500 monthly on gas if I will use my poick up truck or another car.
Where you located?
but two problems... 1spedo dont work.. all my other gauges work but spedo doesnt...my book says nothing about how the spedo works... is it electric or cable driven? and where on the trans does it hook up? what could be the problem?
aaand 2 my alternator belt squeaks no matter how tight i get it...my als also sits a little crocked why is the adjuster made with only a flimsy piece of metal held on with only 1 bolt?
also...where can i get after market taillights and headlights..i dont like the square ones...can i fit cavalier headlights on it and just use the geo side markers? they look very close.....
also can the geo alternator handle an amp or fry from the large power draw? :sick:
The little car will be retired this Summer, when I get a replacement car, as the A/C finally quit for good. I may bury it in the back yard or make a dog house out of it.
Oh, did I mention that the Metro has 344K miles on it - that's right - 344K.
i found a few on ebay... but i was wondering if anyone knew of a good website to buy a head....
I've decided to get a Metro for the fuel efficiency, but I've found it's hard to find a good used one that isn't overpriced. Consequently, I've found a 92 Geo that I'm going to go look at tomorrow and pick up if it's in good enough shape, but I was told when I talked to the guy on the phone that the dash is cracked and looks like it's spent time in the sun (I'm in AZ.....I know, right?). So I thought perhaps I might just replace the whole dash if I could find one. I haven't tried looking around yet. I figured that if anyone might know where to find one, it'd be all of you. Any suggestions?
It sounds like there might be some work I might have to do to bring it up to my standards, so I will probably be back to pick your brains.
I'm looking forward to getting some good use out of a Metro.
Thanks for any help!
This fellow member of the Quebec swift club has a dash for you.
Geo-Swift-Firefly...all the same
http://www.qcswiftclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=7648&sid=24503223cd0cb962e3- b99bc02bb9e96c
good luck, shipping to the States present no problems.
I know I'm in the right place because there are some seriously knowledgeable people answering questions on this web site's forums; I sure can use your help now--BIG TIME!!!
I know I'm dealing with a head gasket issue but its not as bad as it might seem--at least not yet. What is bad, however; I can't locate the "Chilton" Repair Manual to get me through this.
Is it possible that one of y'all can direct me to where I can locate, possibly buy, the "The Chilton Book Company Repair and Tune Up Guide GEO Metro 1992'. Am I perhaps searching under the wrong title? I just don't know.
Anything and everything y'all can do to help me with my dilemma will be MAJOR appreciated. I just bought the head casket kit tonight but before I do any serious work on my "Little Red Convertible" I'd sure like to know I've got that Chilton Book in my corner!
Thank you so very very much for your help.
Have a good one!
RED
I had that exact problem and can't tell you this was the fix all. However, I know after doing it, a buddy who is a chief mechanic told me about it, it no longer does it!!
I am now "alternating" gas tank fillups..no joke--regular then super unleaded AND I NEVER EVER use anything but Amoco/BP--haven't bothered with the midgrade as that's what he told me to do. So help me ecu, I've not had that problem since and I've been doing it for years now. My GEO Metro LSI Convertible is a 1992 and my baby!
Try it hun! Hope it works for you like it did for me! I'd like to hear if you have the same good luck with this I do!
RED
P.S. Just as a "heads up"-- As we all know gas prices are through the roof and won't be getting better anytime soon but I did use a much "cheaper" brand gasoline and so help me, the same problem came back to haunt me. Once I got all remnants of the "cheaper" gas outta my baby, the blue smoke has never returned.
google for Chilton's manual
I had no problem finding lots of listings.
Steve B.
RED
Luke
Thanks in advance
Phil
I will be depositing a 1994 Geo Metro in running condition to Pick Your Part in
Stanton CA. this 3/31/08 tommorow. It is a two door hatchback 131,000 miles.
It did not pass smog ,I think it is the CAT but the condo assc is getting hard to
have three cars. My loss your gain. You must work fast. There phone number
is (800)962-2277 this inside info call after 10:00 am!
in California put 4 quarts in and the engine would fail on steep upward hills. Check
and drain if you are putting to much in. I sold the GEO to State of Calif for
1,000.00 I will miss the Geo it could still be at Pick your Part in Stanton CA.
But they wrote Crush all over it.
I'm new to this forum. Lots of good info here. I have a problem with my Canadian built 94' Metro TBI 2dr hatchback. A couple of years ago it dropped a valve while crusing on the highway. I have finally purchased a Japanese engine off ebay. I dropped it in and buttoned everything up and now I don't have spark to the plugs. I don't hear the fuel pump either. This is a throttlebody engine with an auto trans. Could this problem be from a defective ECM or coil? The car sat for a long while (3 years) before I replaced the engine so, I cleaned all the grounds and even made new battery cables. I have replaced the dist. cap, rotor, plugs, and plug wires. I tested the coil with a test light. It has power but I don't know how much since I don't have a voltmeter. I don't want to buy a new ECM or coil just yet since I don't know if that's the problem. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dan
I am new to this sight. I have had 3 cylinder Geo's since my first 85 Sprint and I love um. I have always maintained them myself. But I am at a road block.
The 95 has 150+K and was running fine except the idle got real rough and the idle speed repeatedly goes high to low (pulsing) some times at idle (when coming to a stop). I have cleaned the PCV and have tested the sensors and dash pots and everything seemed fine. The only thing I questioned was the TPS riestance was off from the manual I have but it seems to work and at $140.00 I do not want to replace smoothing that is good. I also have looked for vacuum leaks. I have not written sooner because I want to do the testes again so I could write a better detailed post but I have not had a chance. Also I am afraid I will get chastised because I have adjusted the forbidden screw (what looks to be an idle screw). In my defense I am from the old school and we did not used to have to worry about turning one screw ending the world. Any way with this screw and adjusting the throttle position sensor I was able to greatly improve the idle (although not perfect) of coarse you know this killed the gas mileage. I have tried to adjust it back with no success because of the rough idle. My next step is to do a compression test but the car seems to run fine other than the idle. I also had added cruise control years ago and heard that this may have harmed the ECU, could this be true? If so what would the symptoms be? Thank you for your time. Any one with any ideas on my idle problem and getting my gas mileage back up would be gratefully appreciated. Also any links for parts and repair for this car would be nice, especially on how to adjust the forbidden screw.
Les
Otherwise, one item that may be responsible is the electrical or vacuum connections to the MAP sensor. This sensor is a black plastic box, which is mounted near the top of the firewall, on the passenger side of the engine compartment behind the air filter housing. There is a 3 wire electrical connector that plugs into the side of the sensor, and a vacuum line coming from the back of the throttle body mounting flange, that connects to a spigot which hangs down below the sensor. If there is a crack or a break in that vacuum line, it could cause the problem. Or if any of the terminals on the electrical plug have become loose or have bent and are making poor contact (as they tend to do when they age) this could also cause the problem. The same problem could also happen if the vacuum hose connecting between the spigot on the bottom edge of the air filter housing and the idle air control valve has come loose or is broken. Those are the five most likely causes.
The setting for the idle air bypass screw is dependent on the setting for the throttle position sensor; if one of them is way out of adjustment, it becomes impossible to properly set the other. The GM factory service manual says that the TPS (ON EARLY MODEL STICK SHIFT CARS) can be adjusted with an ohmmeter and a feeler gauge. The early model TPS units can be identified by there being slots in the flanges under the two mounting screws. Later model TPS units, which are not adjustable, have holes in the mounting flanges rather than slots. I expect the TPS on your '95 model is not adjustable. But if it can be adjusted; try setting it exactly in the middle of its travel. That will be a good starting point. The resistance between two of the terminals on the TPS is supposed to switch between zero and infinity when the throttle bellcrank has opened exactly .015"-.020" away from the stop it rests upon at idle. The precise measurement is made by placing different thickness feeler gauges between the throttle linkage and the stop it rests on when it fully closes; until you find the size gauge that matches the linkage position when the TPS contacts switch. These 2 terminals will also switch again as the throttle position approaches wide open.
Adjust the TPS BEFORE you try to reset the air bypass screw. The proper procedure for setting the idle air bypass screw is to have the engine fully warmed up; and, while the engine idles, slowly turn the screw in (clockwise) until the motor noticeably slows down or becomes much rougher. Turn the screw only about 1/8 turn at a time, and let the engine stabilize. Then turn it 1/8 turn further. Keep going in that direction until you reach the point where the idle quality has obviously become worse, then open the screw back out just until it becomes smooth. Don't be concerned if the idle speed seems to have become a lot faster or slower: The computer will normally put the speed back where it belongs, after it gets used to the new air bypass setting.
Les
But back to the likely causes of your problem. In addition to what we've already considered, I'd like to add four more items. One of them is that you may have gotten a tank of bad fuel. If the problem began shortly after you bought fuel, this would indicate that bad fuel is a probable cause. And if you bought it at an unfamiliar station, it becomes that much more likely. In that case, you'll have to drive until the fuel in the tank is almost all gone; and then fill up with known good fuel and drive until it smooths out, before readjusting the settings you've changed.
A second possibility is that dirt has gotten into your fuel injector. If you haven't changed the fuel filter in 150.000 miles, this becomes highly likely. Your car has a fuel filter mounted on the underside of the frame on the driver's side, just in front of the gas tank (about even with the leading edge of the left rear tire). There is a metal skid plate under the filter, which is held on by 2 or 3 small bolts. Before changing the fuel filter, you must vent any air pressure that has built up in the tank, by removing and replacing the fuel filler cap. Otherwise, gasoline will spray all over when you disconnect the hoses from the filter. Even after venting excess pressure, gas will run out of the lines when they are disconnected. I wait until the tank is almost empty, park the car heading uphill, and use a pair of clean bolts which have a long unthreaded portion, to plug the hoses and stop the gas from running out. But this is still a potentially messy job. It may be worth paying a gas station to do it.
After the fuel filter is replaced, I suggest pouring a full bottle of Chevron Techroline fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank, and driving at least 50 miles so it can do its magic. That is an outstanding product. It can be bought at Wal Mart, Checker, Shucks, Murray, or Kragen; or at Chevron and Standard gas stations.
A third possibility is that the spark plugs you bought are the wrong model for this car. This sometimes happens if you get the plug number from a cross reference chart, or a store computer, rather than going directly to the plug manufacturer's listing for your vehicle. Also, contrary to popular belief, many brands of plugs DO NOT come pre-gapped. So it is important to be sure that you bought the right plugs and all the gaps were properly set before installation.
The fourth possibility is that the ignition timing has been readjusted during the tune up; and that the instructions about disconnecting vacuum hoses and/or electrical connectors before resetting the timing were not properly followed. That would make it idle poorly, and ruin the economy.
The exhaust pipe is still black inside with a small ring of black around the outside end.
I have seen only one other Geo in the area which had a very clean looking exhaust pipe. What am I overlooking?
I'd be interested in hearing from other owners comments, especially from cars from 95 and earlier (pre dual O2 sensor models).
Steve B.
Your message sounds like one I replied to some time ago. Anyway, here are my takes on this issue. Right now, my 1990 5 speed Metro has a dark brown, dry coating on the inside of the pipe. It turns black in the winter months, when I only do short trips. This happens when the ambient air temperature stays below about 55 degrees Fahrenheit. At those times, my gas mileage in rural non freeway driving drops to around 40mpg. In the summertime, the rural short trip mileage goes up to about 47, and it reaches the mid 50s on freeway trips.
There are several areas which could make the pipe turn black (which indicates an excessively rich fuel mixture.) One is if the stock 195 degree coolant thermostat has been removed, or has been replaced with one having a colder specification. Similarly, if either the EFI's coolant temperature sensor or the intake air temperature sensor has drifted out of calibration or has developed a resistive connection, it will cause excessive mixture richness.
The mixture will also go rich if either of the mufflers have been removed, or if they have been replaced with non factory parts. Installing a non standard ignition coil can also create an excessively rich mixture.
If there are deposits in the fuel injector, or on intake valves; they also can create a rich fuel mixture. The most effective product for removing deposits from those two areas is an exclusive chemical formula called Techroline, which is made by Standard Oil of California. It comes in a black bottle, and is sold nationwide at Wal Mart, Checker, Shucks, Kragen, and Murray auto stores. It is also sold by Standard stations and Chevron dealers.
Two other things that can create an excessively rich mixture are using an unsuitable brand of spark plug (I've had best results with Autolites, and with Bosch Fusion {although the Bosch Fusions cost about $10 each}), or having a throttle position sensor which is out of adjustment. If your TPS is adjustable, mark the curent position, and try setting it slightly counterclockwise. If you go too far, it will cause a hesitation under moderate acceleration. Your exhaust pipe will tell you when you get it right.
Joel
One unlikely thing I discovered about my Metro is that if I connect a jumper wire from the battery to the coil, in order to bypass any possible resistance in the wiring or the ignition switch; it cuts off the spark from the coil (even though the coil is getting full battery voltage). It appears this is intended as an anti-theft device. So, if you're not using the standard wiring to run the car's electrical system; this could be the reason you have no spark. And since you made new battery cables; did you include the auxiliary ground lead in addition to the usual battery negative cable, I mean the one that goes from the battery negative terminal to the bolt in the inner fender well???
And then there is the infamous ignition disabling feature built into the seat belt system of Metros of that era. If a seat weight sensor either malfunctions, or detects any weight in one of the seats; the seat belt for that seat MUST be fastened; or the car will not start.
If the fuel pump does not run, there may be a problem with the fuses in the fuse box under the hood, or possibly with a power relay. The fuel pump normally runs for about 3 seconds when the key is first turned on. After that, it runs as often as required by engine demands.
This may sound obvious, but it has baffled many people: If the timing belt on your replacement engine has broken or come off, it will cause the distributor shaft to stop rotating. And then the coil will not produce any sparks.
Dan
Les
Sounds like you did a professional quality job on the battery cables! The fuel pump probably has its own dedicated ground wire, which goes to a point located near the pump. I have seen that connection on other brands of cars become corroded enough to stop the pump. So by all means unbolt it and clean the terminals. I doubt you can access the pump from under the rear seat. You'll probably have to do it from underneath the car. It doesn't require a hoist. I just remove the left rear tire, and support the body on a jack stand, to gain easier access. But it might even be possible to do it without removing the tire.
Regarding the 'no spark' condition; it might be useful to see if there is any spark coming from the coil, rather than checking at the plugs. It also would be useful to go through the fuse box in the engine compartment, and see if you can light a test light from the terminals for the fuel pump fuse (at least; I personally would check every fuse and circuit in the whole box) There are lots of points in and around that box which are vulnerable to corrosion.
And see if all the usual electrical accessories appear to be functioning normally: the headlights, taillights, brake lights, directional signals, heater blower fan, radio, horn, windshield wipers, instrument panel lights, and the 'check engine' light. If there is a pattern of failed items, it might be illuminating.
Joel
There is another part called an ignition pick up unit, which if it were defective could be causing this problem. But rather than throwing another hundred bucks at the problem, I think it is a better idea to methodically go through the steps that were previously mentioned, and eliminate all the other possibilities we can think of.
There is a parts source called Rock Auto, which has an online catalog that includes photo images. I looked up your model Metro there, and found several different types of ignition modules. One of them was for Canadian vehicles, and the others were not. It was very difficult for me to tell the difference between the appearance of the parts; but my computer has display problems, and I have not personally seen your module. You might find it helpful to go to their website, and see if anything can be gleaned. Clicking on the blue icon in a listing will bring up the image.
Joel
I just thought of an easier way to determine if this is a U.S. model. Open the driver's side door, and look at the body panel just below the door latch striker. There should be a plate there, which lists the place and date of manufacture. If that plate contains a statement about the vehicle meeting Federal specifications; then it is a U.S. model. If the plate refers to Canadian specifications, then it is a Canadian model. And if there is no plate, then we have an ongoing problem.
If you can find a serial number on the distributor, the parts department at a dealership should be able to determine from that number whether this is a U.S. or Canadian model; but it the distributor has previously been replaced, then there still would be a mystery.
Joel
Dan
" MFD. By CAMI-AUTOMOTIVE INC. Canada
Date 11/93
This vehicle conforms to all applicable US Federal Motor Vehicle safety, bumper, and theft prevention standards in effect on the date of manufacture shown above.
VIN # 2C1MR2462R6728129"
So, I beieve this car was built in Canada but was intended to be operated in the US. Am I right? I also found the ECM (Engine Control Module) on their website and thought I'd see what mine has. They look the same but, I will call them tomorrow because the numbers on mine don't quite match the ones they list. I just want to make sure they are the same in case I need a new computer. Is there any way to test it? Can a parts store or a dealership do that? They cost just over $300 so I want to make sure mine is defective before I buy one.
Dan