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Comments
Another possibility is your motor mounts are not quite torqued down tight enough. They might only vibrate at speed.
My parents have had good luck with their 1992 and 1995 Centurys, but they do get stranded every year or so when the belt tensioner breaks. GM mechanics have admitted to a design fault with the 2.2L engine and its tensioner. I expect mine to fail since I have the same 2.2L engine. My parents also have a 1995 Bonneville but drive it so little it never gives them trouble. It would still be in warranty at 32K if it wasn't 5 years old.
The reasons a Metro is such a good deal are not only the low purchase price, new OR used, but the low gas costs, the 3.5 quart oil fill-up, the ease of changing bulbs and such that keeps them out of mechanic's shops. Older models take cheap 145/SR12 tires while the newer models take 155/80R13s. The Turbo engine that came in 1987-1988 Sprints bolts right in to any 3-cylinder model. Some other internet boards catering to Civics and such have shown that the 95-up Metro is serious competition to a Greddy-turbocharged Civic hatchback when equipped with that Sprint turbo motor. A 3-cylinder Metro weighs 1700lbs gutted with that motor, which is 500 pounds less than the equal Civic, and that makes some of the difference.
Many of the problems that have been discussed on this topic are the result of abuse or misuse. Most Metro sedans on the road today are ex-rentals. Most automatic hatchbacks are, too. They get abuse, and cosmetic things get broken, vibrations and rattles gets started, and engine wear is magnified by jackrabbit starts and poor maintenance.
My experience with GM cars is limited to the following: 1975 Cutlass, 1978 Impala, 1980 Caprice, 1980 Electra, 1984 Olds 98, 1985 Olds 88, and this 1994 Cavalier. All those rear-drive GM cars were hard to keep on the road. The Olds 88 was okay for awhile, it moved me from Wyoming to Texas and then to Ohio when my Dad got transferred for work, and the air worked the whole time I had it, but the motor got worse and worse and it finally wouldn't run over idle speed at all. I had to do $1000 in work to it over 3 months, plus I paid $500 for it. I got nothing when I sold it, because it had to be towed away.
One of my favorite "lesier" activites is driving my Cavalier to and from work at the 55mph it can do without vibrating too badly, and watching the looks on peoples faces after the speed limit goes back up to 65 and I don't (can't) speed up!
People usually buy a new car because of the Warranty and the hopes that it will last them a few more years than a used one. My last car made it upto 200,000 before she finally died. I replaced it with a new Ford ZX2. Why? because despite being low in the resale value it offered the best performance and comfort balance for the buck and I won't have to worry about serious mechanical problems for 3 years. In a few months time I will buying a second car to serve as an errand and odd jobs car. It will be a manual trans with those skinny little tires and it will probably be an Accent or something similar. So grow and get a life. I bet it just drives you nut's when you are sitting in your "Moms" Suburban and someone Zips around it.
For me this car's primary function is to commute 100Km to work in downtown Toronto so I only get a chance to drive at highway speed early in the morning. I did not get the manual transmission because of the relentless stop-and-go rush hour traffic I drive in. My last commuter was a manual and it drove me nuts. It was also the transmission that finally made the ultimate sacrifice causing me to replace the vehicle.
As I said, I have never driven a stick version of the Swift so it's hard for me to compare, but I can say that the automatic and this motor setup is actually better than I was expecting in performace and the economy is in line as long as I don't get carried away with my right foot.
I got 8 L/100 Km or 35 MPG of about 50/50 city/Hwy driving. Highway speed (100 km/hr or 63MPH) 50 kilometers to work in the morning and 50 kilometers stop-and-go home.
I am suitably impressed. After it's broken in it should improve a little more too.
Looking for experiences, best unit, tips etc...
It took me about a week to read ALL the responses and the complaints and basically all there is to know about Chevrolet's Metro, AND I THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR INPUT!
A little bit about myself. I have been a faithful owner of a Chevrolet S-10 for over 10 years (pick up truck). Ran it to the ground, 250,000 miles on the 2.5 engine (4-cyl). I just bought a Metro (March 2000) and I just love the car (I wish I had this experience 10 years ago). Every little thing that the little pecker has to offer just makes it what it is supposed to be. A great economical car! Here are some just to name a few:
Turning radius, I can make U turns where only my truck dreamed of. (I love this one especially because I tend to miss everywhere I go). Which efficiently puts me where I want to go. With my truck, I had to probably drive (to the next stop light ie more gas) wait (idle) more gas.... Get the picture???? Can you say inefficiencies?
Gas Consumption, it speaks for itself. The way I look at it is that I spend less money just idling on the same relative comfort level (position and temperature), than an SUV. LMAO!!!! And people drive those things to work on a daily basis. LOL!!! And lol and wonder why they are broke!!! OH my, I think I just pissed my pants....heheh.
Versatility, I can park that thing anywhere I want, literarily. The other day I went to party in a condo somewhere in Ft. Lauderdale, all relatively close spaces were taken, except for the one I had to share with a dumpster. Oh yes, we both fit in! and not only that, it was the only spot that was "gated" LOL. (No trash pick up at night there so it was safe enough from being towed). My truck? Nah! had to walk the mile and a half. Try that with an SUV....
Insurance, BY LAW (In Florida) We have to carry (as vehicle owners) Personal Injury Protection and Property Damage, each covering a minimum $10,000 worth of damages. If you do not have that, YOU ARE BREAKING THE LAW!!! Anyway, the point is, should I, have an accident, and the other person is not breaking the law (is insured), I am pretty damn sure that the market value of the vehicle will still remain inside that 10,000 threshold making it easier for the insurance company to cut a check so I can go buy another Metro.
Power, to me, it has lots of it! It is a lot quicker than the county bus! Cheaper ride than the bus too. SERIOUS! So if you know anyone that rides the bus on a daily basis, laugh at them as much as if it was someone driving an SUV. Figures don't lie but liars do figure!!!
Utility, today I put a couch in it. No kidding! It was part of a 3 part sectional, cushions too. My dive gear fits well. When I go diving, I do not worry about the Metro being stolen. When people steal stuff, they want an outrageous return on their investment, something that will not happen should they choose to steal a Metro, given the alternatives. (Perhaps an SUV???) heheh....
Green car, emissions (over the useful life of the car) will be tons less than an SUV (probably will last longer than the SUV). I like to keep the air I breathe as clean as I can, maybe you should do the same, keep your keys off the ignition if you drive an SUV. Quit smoking too. ;-)
Surface area, due to the size of the vehicle I did not have an accident; I had a brush with a Honda backing up from a parking lot. We were both backing up on to a road which ran east-west and we were both targeting the eastbound lane, I backed in to the west-bound one (my front to the east and obviously no incoming traffic) and as I was doing that, she was doing the same maneuver on her side of the road (the legal way), but in her so doing it, she had some of her big honda accord butt in the westbound lane (where I was), I looked in the rear view mirror and I could see her Honda's butt clearly. She did not see me and when I saw her it was way too late to react. Thank God nothing happened, had it been my truck I would have had the side of my truck bed hit by her, also due to the speed that she accomplished her maneuver, it would have been quite extensive damage.
Oh my, I can keep on talking about this car for as long as I own it! I truly believe that it will most definitely pay for itself in the long term, can an SUV say that? I don't think so. Anyway, for those of you who have some mechanical inclination, I have a few questions.
First, can I use the cheapest oil filter I can find (I found a Lee Filter) they are 1.99 and I am afraid that those will void the warranty if I use them, any input on that?
Second, What about CV joints, I know that Hondas and cars like those wear out after a while, will I need to worry about those on my Metro? So far I have not seen anyone talking about them yet....
Has anyone done a timing belt change on a Metro and if so how long did it take you the first time (hours). Also do you know if there is a Chilton's or any such manual on the Metro 2000. BTW I have the 1.0 ltr and stick shift w a/c.
Thank you all for putting up with my stories and my stuff, I hope you enjoy my car as much as I have ;-)
Ricky
One Metro Fan :-)
I too bought a brand new 2000 Metro in March. This will be my 3rd Metro (I had a '91 Metro bought brand new and traded it in for the 2000, and a '94 Metro, I bought it used and traded it in for a new car for my wife- a 2000 Chevy Tracker 4-door [aka: Suzuki Vitara]).
The one I have is an LSi Automatic hatchback, 1.3 liter engine, w/anti-lock brakes, CD/AM/FM Stereo, A/C,... well it has every option that was available for that car. The color is bright blue. I had a sunroof installed and an alarm system.
A lot of people thought I was crazy in getting all that stuff. I however, keep my cars for many years. Since Chevy announced they will no longer carry the Metro for retail after 2000, I decided to go all out. This is a collectors edition car.
Now to try and answer your questions:
1) Oil Filter
As long as your oil filter say's it will fit your car (and since 2000 is so new, it probably won't be listed yet. Look for the '99 Metro. The only difference between a '99 and a '00 model was two colors were added. Mechanically everything is the same), it should be under warranty. I've been told best bet is to change your oil & filter every 3,000 miles.
2) CV Joints
I haven't had any problems with CV Joints in any of my Metros. The '91 had over 130,000 miles on it (the clutch never was touched either). Of course, how you drive will say a lot too.
3) Timing belt
I know you can now drive up to 100,000 miles on the new Metro's before changing a timing belt. Personally, I wouldn't touch it with a 10' pole since the darn thing has a computer hooked up to the engine (and electrical system). I'd be afraid that if anything was out of kilter, the "Check Engine" light would come on.
Couple of suggestions. Watch your tires. Those goodyear invicta were horrible on my Metro. After awhile the rear tires "feathered" on the treads and it started to sound like I had truck or snow tires (noise). The best tires I've found are the Michelin Symmetry P175/70R13. If you can afford it, put a new set of 4 on your Metro. It makes a world of difference!
Also, there is available (it's expensive, but it is a nice feature), an inside rear latch release lever and striker plate. If you get it, order a 1995-97 rear latch too. The reason is the '98 to present models have an additional feature on the latch. It's a safety catch. It won't work with the release lever very well. If you get the earlier model latch, it'll work!
Welcome to the Club! Enjoy your new Metro!
Tom
I haven't had a bit of trouble with it. It has plenty of power (and I do mean plenty!).
It won't burn the rubber on your tires, but it will move. The biggest drawback is it could use a 4th gear for highway crusing. That would really help on mileage and cut back engine noise.
While the other Metro I had was a stick (and 1.0L engine), it got upper 40's on the mpg scale.
This 1.3L auto gets a solid 34 mpg around town. I know Suzuki could have done better, but that's something I'm willing to trade.
Tom
I appreciate your feedback on the latch. The other day I had a "load" that I could've taken care of without shutting the engine down if I had that latch. Thanks.
On the tire issue, I kind of noticed that the Metro is getting bouncier on the ride, I ruled it out as the shocks. I'll keep you posted. So far I will not replace the tires just for a better ride I will wear this ones out first. With my kind of driving, quite possibly within a year (30,000 miles life expectancy). PS I did not know I had 13" wheels. I kinda take that as a bonus! LOL.
On the filter issue, I think you misunderstood me. All I wanted to know is if the "cheap" filter can void the manufacturer's warranty if I use it. Further research on this one has concluded that it "protects" new vehicle warranties. I'll keep you posted on what "protects" is defined as. But the construction and looks are the same, it is literarily the same filter I am just wondering of what is inside, the actual filter media, Is it the same as the more expensive counterparts? This just makes me want to buy two of them and rip them open to see... hmmmm that just occurred to me. I have no doubts that the cheap filter will fit.
Anyways, I thank you again for your input. Sincerely;
Ricky
One Metro Fan ;-)
I've read stories of courier drivers having up to 500,000 miles on a Metro and I really think if these cars are capable of that kind of durability the difference in cost of a quality oil and oil filter will pay off in the long run if you are planning to keep the car for that long.
Personally, I plan to start using synthetic oil after the break-in and if the warrenty will allow it. Since I managed to drag 17 years out of one vehicle that had no track record of durability, then with some care and attention, I should be able to make this one last at least as long.
One note on CV joints, all CV joints wear out eventually, the same as the old Universal joints in a rear drive vehicle with a drive shaft. How you drive will make all the difference in the world as to how long that joint will last. CV joints will fail more quickly if you gun the engine a lot while in gear especially if the wheels are turned.
The biggest thing to look out for that will kill a CV joint in a heartbeat is contamination. Keep an eye on the CV Joint boots. If they split or crack open and road grime gets in there, it will grind away at the joint and cause it to fail. Changing a cracked boot is a lot cheaper than replacing the shaft assembly as long as you catch it quick enough.
BTW, the second tank in my Swift Automatic was all highway for the holiday long weekend and managed 40 MPG or 7 L/100Km. The car just turned 1000Km/600Miles.
I agree that a 4 speed for highway cruising would be the cherry on top for this car and I would imagine that the mileage would rocket if we could drop the engine speed by a couple of thousand RPM at cruising speed. I plan on adding a cruise control in the next couple of weeks, hope that helps a little as well.
My Swift is black and I had the windows tinted on Friday, it looks awesome now. Sunroof next pay week.
Once I have the sunroof put in I'll get some pics on a web site and let you know.
A friend on another list/board is having trouble with his airbag light. He wants to install a Grant steering wheel anywy, but he wonders how he can disable the airbag to do so. Is this legal, is it possible to do, and can it be done by him or does a Chevy tech have to disable it for him? I know about the medical/height reasons, but this is for an aftermarket part. I don't think he ought to remove it since the car is so small, but he insists. Any ideas?
and 5 speed. With 88K. I bought it at 49K and paid more because it was a towed vehicle (behind
a motorhome) and the owner (who died) just put a
grand into it. I am in outside sales and this is
a great one-person car and fits lots of stuff. I
need not mention the gas mileage.
I am concerned about the cost of parts. My clutch
went on the interstate the other day, had it fixed
by the closest Goodyear (had no choice), with the
bill about $700, excluding tow and tax. I was
dumfounded! A week later I brought it to a Chevy
dealer, showed them my receipt. They thought it
was in line with what they would charge, that
Suzuki parts are, for some reason, wildly expensive ($900 for its tiny radiator, $600 for an
alternator).
I have always kept my cars well into the 100k's,
but I am concerned about this bit of news. Plus
I live in Florida on a barrier island, where the
salt air mixes with sheet metal.
Any thoughts, experiences?
Am going to sell the car car anyway because we need a van for all the kids. Want to get $4000 for this 97 4-door sedan automatic with around 52,000 miles.
Have enjoyed chatting with all on board. See ya.
He called it the Metro Endurance Racing League as a joke (racing
http://merl.eleeto.com
I stumbled on this topic and was surprised to see people wondering what would be the Metro replacement.
But the press surrounding GM's concept vehicles in the 1999 Tokyo Auto Show (in October/99, almost 1 year ago now) pretty much spelled it out.
The YGM-1, according to all the official press, will "officially" replace the Metro.
Here's a quote from
http://www.automobilemag.com/events/571.html
"GENERAL MOTORS: The YGM-1 is a preview look at a new minicompact being jointly developed with Suzuki. The all-wheel-drive four-door hatchback will go on sale in Asia in 2001; later it will replace the Chevrolet Metro and Suzuki Swift in the North American market."
Has this information changed?
I will post more links in my next message.
H. Brown
Let me know if you have more pics.
http://www.4wdonline.com/GM/Cars/YGM.html
http://www.automobilemag.com/events/571.html
http://www.autogids.nl/AutogidsSite/laatsten/lnieuws/tokyonieuws/tokto.htm
http://ascii24.aleph.co.jp/motor-show/thumb/gen-car.html
H. Brown
I am considering the 2000 or 2001 Hyundai Accent sedan, but against all reason I still like the design of the Metro sedan.
I can buy a new 2000 5-spd Metro sedan with rear defogger, package SB1, and tachometer, or I can order a similar 2001 Metro (automatic, no tach) for the same price. [Fleet vehicles don't need tachs or 5-speeds I guess].
Any advice?
H. Brown
It seriously bugs me that the 2000 or 2001 Metros I'm looking at don't have power windows as an option.
I read in a car review from 1995 that Metro sedans had a power window option at that time.
Now I'm really bugged if that's true!
Okay, cost being no object for a crazy Metro owner (not me, I swear), can I order replacement stock window motors and controls from GM and wire them up? Any service manuals that show how they fit and where they're located? [Obviously, I do not want a "non-stock" solution.]
H. Brown
If you do go for the Metro, get the 2000 model with the 5 speed. It will have better performance and much better fuel economy compared to the 3 speed auto. However, as a happy 2000 Hyundai Accent owner, I would seriously consider getting the Accent instead. I test drove both the Metro and the Accent. The Accent was much more solid feeling, offered more room and cargo space, had better brakes and acceleration, offered more safety equipment, and had a more comfortable and higher quality looking interior. Not to mention the great warranty coverage the Accent offers. The only thing you really sacrifice is fuel economy, which is lower than the Metro due to its larger engine. Anyway, I just thought I would share my insight. Good luck in your decision.
http://www.theautochannel.com/content/vehicles/new/reviews/wk9509.html
1999 Auto Channel Review:
http://www.theautochannel.com/content/vehicles/new/reviews/1999/heilig_chevrolet_metro_lsi_sedan.html
The review of the 1995 Metro clearly lists as options "power windows, door locks and steering."
(URL in next message)
And a different reviewer on the same site insists that the 1999 Metro has "power mirrors."
Well, we know that's not true, since Edmunds lists the 1999 model as having dual *manual* remote mirrors. Perhaps the reviewer read too quickly!
As for the power windows, I called GM parts and they can't find any power window motors or power window switches.
I guess that answers that question.
carlady/host
They have a link to an article about the Holden YGM-1. AFAIK Holden is GM-Australia.
The following is an excerpt from a longer article. The link to the whole article is in the next message.
_YGM1: Holden's Baby Off-Roader Looms_
By ALEXANDER CORNE March 23, 2000
Specs: 4wd only, Suzuki-derived 1.5 L 16-valve engine.
Excerpt: "The YGM1 is a restyled version of the new Suzuki Swift now on sale in Japan in two and four-wheel drive. The YGM1 model will be badged as a Holden but its model name is yet to be finalised."
The new Swift has been on Suzuki's Japanese web site for a while (the Japanese part, not the English part). The link is also in the next message.
H.
You'll have to go to the main section:
http://www.automotive.yellowpages.com.au/marrakesh/automotive/news/master_news_future_selection.jhtml
and select the car manuf. manually.
H.
carlady/host
Then they decided to put it in for service. They told us that the Metro was due for a fuel injection service and transmission fluid check from the last two oil changes that were done tehre at the dealership. My wife told them that when she took it in the serviceman told her they did that automatically whenever they did an oil change. However according to the computer, they hadn't at any time.
So that was pretty annoying, especially since they claimed it was not covered by the warranty (no free maintenance) and would cost $168. Well we decided not to have it done immediately, but instead have them check out the car and determine why the check engine light was coming on. We called back the next day around 3pm and they told us they still hadn't determined what the issue was, but that they'd authorized us to receive a rental car. So we went back to the dealership.
When we got there, the service manager came our smiling and told us the car was fixed. We were both like "What? We just called and you said you hadn't even figured out what the problem was?"
He said that curiously enough between the time we called him and the time we got there they not only found the problem but fixed it too. Sounded fishy to me, but we got in the car anyway. Sure enough, when we started her up, the check engine luight was still on. So we told the service manager and he said they'd put it back in for service. Nice try. Well they carted us off to Advantage Rent-A-Car to get a free loaner.
Unfortunately, the story isn't over. We get the car rental agency and one of the people from the dealership had told us that we'd be renting the very car they broguht us there in, 2000 blue Hyundai Accent. Which was fine. But then the rep at the car rental agency told us they had already rented that vehicle to a woman who was already there in the office, who sure enough rode off in the Hyundai.
We didn't really mind, until we found out that the ONLY other vehicle the agency had available was a 2000 Jeep Cherokee. While not a bad vehicle, it would cost $80 a day and the dealership had only authorized us for $30 a day. Not only that, but because my wife is under 25 they would charge her an extra $10 per day fee. That would be an extra $60 per day we'd have to pay out of pocket. But wait, it gets worse, because she's only 20 and therefore under 21, they can't rent anything to her at all!
Well my wife doesn't just take things lying down so she threw a fit, telling the car rental rep that it wasn't her fault and that the dealership should have to pay and so on. Thankfully, the rep understood our dilemna and really helped us out. He disregarded the company policy of not renting to persons under 21. He waived the $10 per day under 25 fee. He waived the extra $50 for the Cherokee instead of a subcompact like the Hyundai. Not only that, he called up my wife's insurance company and SOMEHOW got them to transfer coverage to the rental, which even though she has full coverage is not supposed to happen. Man, that guy did us good.
Anyway so we go out to get in the Cherokee and I'm like what the heck? This thing looks exactly the same way they did back in 1988! I can't believe Chrysler hasn't changed the Cherokee for over a decade. I kept telling my wife that the thing was a 2000 model and she would not believe me. I was like look, there's only 13k on the odometer, which is digital by the way, there's dual airbags, a working a/c and everything's clean...it has to be a 2000. Yet from all other stances the thing looks at leats 10 years old. Crazy.
You know what's funny? The thing has the same 4 liter inline six cylinder that AMC created and out in the Gremlin 30 years ago. AMC may be long gone but the best engine they ever built lives on, and I think they put it in teh Wrangler too. Man, that thing roars!