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I also have to agree with the rest of the posters.. love my Ego!!! After my 91 died after 126k miles I regrettably leased a 97 S-10. I finally finished the lease and happened upon a 95 psi last month and driving it felt like putting on an old pair of shoes. I can't say enough about my Metro and am upset that they are no longer being produced.
Thanks,
Although I do drive 122 miles round trip every day with most of the trip between 60-75 MPH that is pretty much the upper comfort limit of the Metro with the 5 speed. With the automatic it would be even lower with no overdrive.
You might think about a Acura Integra 4dr. They get pretty good mileage around 30 MPG but have pretty good power. But they are spendy, even used. If you read some of the posts some people have gotten some awesome deals on used Metro's.
So good luck on your search for a used car.
I try to keep my Metro off the highways as much as possible, but in NJ it is difficult. The Metro is a one-ton car in a two-ton world.
Good luck with your buying process.
My mechanic informed me that this was a design defect due to the water from the air conditioner hose blowing back on the inside chassis and causing rust. Has anyone had a similar problem?
I've also been having a continuing problem with the driver's side window coming off the track. Could the two be related?
Anyone else having a similar problem? Any ideas on how to fix? This is the first real trouble that Old Ruby has given me in seven years so I'm eager to find a solution.
Thanks,
CJA
So watch out if your behind a a pick-up truck or SUV type vehicle -- especially at the drive through!!
My main concern is with the transmission. I noticed during the test drive that I needed to "double clutch" to downshift into 2nd and 1st. Is this normal on the Metro? If not, does it indicate a major malfunction is in the works? I can live with double clutching if it's not a sign of a bigger problem down the road.
Thanks for your comments!
Please help me.
I leased this Geo Metro (1996) out from a local dealer for 1 month.
Now, 1 week after I leased this, 'service engine soon' lights on.
I don't know why and am not familiar with customs in US since I have been here in US for 2 weeks.
I will bring this car to the dealer shop which is the lessor.
I would like to ask you.
1. What does it mean by "service engine soon."
2. Do I have to pay some money for this problem.
I won't forget your help in this country.
Please, help me.
Thank you in advance.
Thank you.
There are several small problems which are minor inconvieniences... heater motor only works on high, drivers window doesn't roll up correctly (there's a triangular thing missing off of the door seal), speakers suck. But nothing of significance that would make me get rid of it any time soon.
Over the years I've done all of the maintenance scheduled, but there is a lot that goes unsaid in the owners manual. When should the timing belt be changed? How much will this cost?
It would almost seem that it would be easier for me to find an old '93 and buy it and strip it of parts (or put the ones I have on the new car) rather than buying new or salvaged parts/pieces as I go? any thoughts on this?
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/inuvik_nwt
I would like to find a replacement. These park lights were originally off of a '89 Metro. They are clear with a small amber insert. Later models were all amber, which I don't think are as nice looking. So anybody out there have one to sell me (cheap of course)?
I would have totalled the car if it would have had the standard 12" tires and wheels. Those 14" really saved me because I had to do a very sudden evasive move at almost 70 MPH to avoid someone that lost control of their vehicle in front of me.
Scary stuff but with those 14" rims the only thing that limits you in the corners is your sanity. I have never been able to get my Metro to break loose on dry pavement. My nerves run out long before the limits of the tires do.
But when the roads are wet, oh my goodness is my Metro dangerous! Not enough weight to make the car stick to the road. You have to drive like you fear for you life when it's raining.
If I had to do it over again I think I would go with 15" rims. Better tire selection with more appropriate tire height (185/60 HR14 are about 3/4" taller than the 155/12)
Well, that's my scary story.
my car has 59,000 miles a dent on the rear quater panel and 2 chips in the windshield
only repairs was to have part of the exhaust pipe replaced
it seems like people here really like their metros (me included) so im sure everyone will give a positive opinion if my car is worth this much
I am looking for some aftermarket rims for my metro, prefferably 13" (so i dont have to worry about the speedo) but I cant find any nice looking ones.
i need 13" 4 lug 4" from lug center to lug center
will rims off a '91 civic fit my metro?
please e-mail me @ mreink8181@home.com
thanks Jeff
It runs fine for a month and then one day it stalls and quits and leaves me hanging, or I get in in the morning and it won't start. When I turn on the ignition I can hear the fuel pump pressurize the line. The engine turns over and it's getting big juicy sparks but it won't start. It appears to be flooding. Three times I've had it towed, and it starts just fine by the time it gets to the shop.
The last time it quit in front of the house, I let it sit for a couple of days. It still wouldn't start but I squirted starting fluid in the so-called "fuel-injector" and kept cranking it and cranking it as it started to fire until eventually it continued to run on its own. Drove it straight to the shop and it started just fine the next time they turned the key. They drove it everyday for a week. "It starts just fine." Supposedly they've replaced all the sensors, checked all electrical connections, but it's all just to "do something" because they can't find anything wrong.
I get it back home, drive it for a month and about the time I'm starting to rely on it again, it doe it again. It's "the car from hell." I'm ready to fire bomb it. It's sitting out front right now.
Strong cranking. Big sparks. Won't start. Any clues?
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/inuvik_nwt
Even this small change drastically improved the handling. Not to mention the appearance.
And BTW the handling & ride of the '95 is light years ahead of my old trusty '91.
The wheels are size 13X5.5, and have a 4-1/2" bolt circle. I believe all Metro's/Swifts have the 4-1/2" pattern. I just measured across the bolt holes on the stock wheels to make sure of this.
Here is the link to the Type 024 Eagle wheel: http://www.americaneaglewheel.com/024.htm
HTH...........ed............'95 Metro Cpe 3-cyl 5-spd
I have now 65000 miles,90 % highway,I changed the rad last month and the exaust system 4 month ago after suffering exaust leak during last winter (was temporarely fixed).I believe that it is a little early ,what do you think ?
I've heard a lot of negative info on the automatics for the Metro. I've had both 5 speed and auto and here's the main difference.
The automatic isn't all that bad. True, it will rob the engine some power and gas mileage and make you feel like it needs another gear to shift up to when doing 65 MPH or higher, but for a 3 cyl engine- it's not too bad. I would recommend (if auto is what you want), the 1.3 liter 4 cyl engine on the 1995 and later models. I own a 2000 Metro LSi auto and it feels pretty peppy! It's not a road burner- but much better than the 1994 (1.0 ltr), and earlier models.
Oh, one other thing. It is noisy. The engine does rev due to the 3 speed transmission. The plus is you have more torque (on the 1.3 ltr), and the car moves quite well for it's size.
Before settling on a automatic Metro, check other cars that come close to it's size (Honda, etc.). You might find a car that can get better gas mileage for an automatic. Mine gets a ho-hum 28-30 mpg. Definitely a stock market crash from the manual 42 mpg. Why did I get it? I wanted a hatchback, in blue, with a tach (nobody else had one). Also- I've owned Metros before and they have been very reliable. When Chevrolet said 2000 was to be the last year for retail sales on the Metro- I ordered one fully loaded! Never have regretted it since. I'm a happy owner!
-Tom
Other than the exhaust work, it is a great car. It has never left me stranded once. With nothing but a bit of pipe it it really loud but I bet I got that 55hp engine up to 60 or 65hp with no exhaust on it ;-)
It is my commuter car. I drive the snot out of it as my commute involves several turns out onto 80km/h roads (where people drive 100) so I usually shift at 4500RPM or higher but it still gets over 50mpg even driven like that.
I just put new Michelin Rainforce MX4 155R13 tires on it and it handles much better now, no more squealing tires. Why did I leave those OEM Goodyear Invicta's on so long? Oh well, they're gone now...
Harry
with only 33K miles on it had the "SES" light come on, too. My Geo, it seems, doesn't
like to sit out in the rain, so after a rainstorm, the light comes on when I drive it. I disconnect the positive battery cable, and that clears the "SES" light. Kind of "re-booting" the cars
computer sensors. Give that a try.
203800k on the car
I have a '95 3-cyl 5-spd Geo Metro. I am impatient and so are most of the people behind me so I usually drive the snot out of my car. The way to work is country roads with lots of pulling out from stop signs into fast traffic needing 4000-5000rpm shifting to avoid being rear ended. I still get about 5.5L/100km or so with all that revving, which translates to ~52mpg with our imperial gallons or around 43mpg or so with US gallons, if my calcs are correct. After years of driving like this, I still get what I consider to be very good mileage. The car still runs great, with only small things and brakes, exhaust and tires requiring replacement.
There is the Chevy & Geo site, http://www.chevyclub.com/cgc.htm. Membership costs money though and there isn't much there unless getting the membership shows you more.
Maybe our host Revka would start up a Geo Metro club for us here on Edmunds.
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
At canadian tire I can get the exaust pipe from the flange right (under the driver seat) including resonator and muffler for $105.00, but I'm afraid to hear how much it is for the cat ;-)
Anyway, I got the pipe from the exhaust manifold to the cat plus the cat replaced at my GM 'Good'wrench dealer for about $400 Can$ including labour. They didn't do a great job initially, as it took several free adjustments to stop things from banging around under there but I guess the price wasn't too bad and overall my experience with exhaust work has now been that it takes many tries to get it right, no matter where you go. I can dig through my service receipts for an exact parts description and price if you are interested (they're in my glove box).