Chevrolet/Geo Metro

rcarr4 · April 2005

I have a 2000 Chevy Metro that only gets about 32 to 35 MPG mixed city (30%) and highway (70%) driving. I thought I should get atleast 40 mpg.

I have a 1.0 L L3 Engine with a manual transmission. It does have air conditioning but I dont use it.

Is the air conditioner killing my gas mileage, or do you think that I have something wrong with my engine that needs to be repaired?

The engine runs very smooth.

nckjgdmn · April 2005

I had the same problem with my 99 1.0 for a long time. My first question to you would be is your check engine light on. If so, I would go to your nearest auto zone and see what they bring up. My solution ended up that my new catalytic converter was clogged up. Where I live I had the option of cutting it off and just having my muffler on. With that I now got 55MPG. Hopefully catalytic converter replacement thats not the issue because they can be upwards of $180.

nckjgdmn · April 2005

Also I forgot to add. Your A/C doesnt rob the car of any power unless it's on.

aussiebat · April 2005

I am about to buy a 1997 Geo which appears to be in good condition with 78,000 miles on it. I plan to have my mechanic look at it just to be certain it is in fairly decent working condition. I found this board just by chance and have been impressed by some of the things said. I'm looking to buy from a dealer who is listing the car at $2,999 but the Blue Book says $2,090. I think there is some room to bargain... Did this guy see a woman coming?

kuchagirl · April 2005

I have a 1991 Geo 4-door hatchback. 134,000 miles. Bought it for $500 10 months ago, replaced the alternator in February. Runs quiet, shifts like a breeze, gets good gas mileage. I could not be happier.

In the last 6 days, it has started making noises - I would describe it as the sound of coins going into a pay phone or slot machine. Not "crunching." It happens intermittently when I shift. I'm still trying to detect a pattern, while also driving the car less to avoid further damage.

Also, in the last 24 hours, I've heard the sound, directly under the driver's seat (not on the left side alone, but in the middle of the body of the car) that sounds like a muffler or something has dropped and is dragging along the pavement. Yet, when I park and look under the car, there is nothing hanging down.

I was told on Friday (at an oil change) that there is a transmission leak. No one mentioned that at the previous oil change 3 months ago, or when I got the alternator changed.

What does this sound like? The alternator was easy to rationalize, since I only paid $500 for the car, but if I have a dying tranny, then I may want to bail on this delightful little car and get a different one.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

rcarr4 · April 2005

Thanks for the response. The check engine light is not on, and the engine runs well. I recently got a leak in my exhaust system and need to get it checked out so I will check into the catalytic converter too.

It would be great to get 55mpg. I hope I can get the problem fixed.

Thanks again and if you have any other ideas or suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.

3_cyl_of_fury · May 2005

I've got a 1999 3-cyl Metro. Going through potholes and over some bumps, the wheels make a crunching/popping noise. I haven't check my struts yet, but if I have to replace them do I have to buy the mounting plate and the boot or do I simply need to change out the strut?

Also, if I want to upgrade my struts do I also need to purchase the mounting plate and boot for that particular strut?

As for gas mileage, I just put in a K & N air filter and will post about the increase in mileage soon. Also, what is a good muffler to compliment the K & N?

weekend_warrio · May 2005

my airbag light came on (96 metro 3 cyl 5 spd 2dr)and I do not know how to reset it. The bags did not deploy, but the car got bounced a little bit. I changed the 1 sensor in front of the car, the airbag control module under the shifter housing, and checked the fuse near the steering column. I also disconnected both cables from the battery for an extended period of time.

When started, the airbag light sometimes flashes 7 times, or just stays on.

Can someone please tell me how to reset this light?

Thank-you

jimbob1 · May 2005

Has anyone found an easy-to-fit comfortable replacement seat? The original is molded for someone at least 6" shorter than I am, and is brutal in my 1.5 hr daily commute.

Did a forum search, but couldn't find any info.

Thanks!

jen5 · May 2005

We just replaced all four engine mounts as they were worn out and the engine moved when shifting gears as well as when you pushed down on the accelerator. The engine still moves back and forth somewhat when shifting gears (in parked position). We talked to a mechanic but he couldn't say if that is normal or not. Does anyone know if this is supposed to happen?

geometro95 · May 2005

Hey guess what... I was on sadiscosouth.net its a auction site and im bidding on a 95 metro nothing wrong with it an">d 100,00 miles for a starting bid of $25!

Most likley i will be the only bidder because everybody else is a dealer and cant sell a 95 metro. So im probably gona be the only bidder.

Anyways I was reading all this stuff you guys said about the metro and wanna know if anybody wants to post pics of metros all pimped out.

cbabcock · May 2005

I have a 1998 metro 1.0L. The problem I have is when I put it in reverse the engine bogs down and dies. This is a manual transmision. Also when you shift two 2nd gear aand give it gas it bogs down until you shift it back to first gear. Is there a filter cloged or a sensor out please help me.

Thanks Chris :sick:

cbabcock · May 2005

This is the same problem I have been haveing with my 98 3-cylinder metro. Did you every find out what was wrong. Please let me know how to fix it.

Chris :sick:

muffin_man · May 2005

There is a car showoff website called...cardomain.com?
I'm sure there's dozens of tricked out metros there.

pwdrex · May 2005

I am looking for a nice Geo Metro convertible. Preferably a 1992 or 1993 manual transmission with air but I will consider anything & will travel for the right car!
Thanks

Sylvia · May 2005

You can try looking here AutoTrader.com Cars for Sale Quick Search. There are a number of convertibles listed in the model years you requested.

montrealswift · May 2005

I have a 1994 Suzuki Swift, 1.0L 3 Cyl. with 12 inch wheels.
I need the torque specs for the front axle nuts if anyone knows it.
Just changed the discs and need to retorque.

ski_natzi · June 2005

My metro engine just died hardcore cause it had a oil leak and burned all the oil, bad sight. Does anyone know of a site or phone # on the west coast or around Utah that sells metro engines? The body is still really good and i really love the 45 mpg i got out of this thing. Please let me know. Metros Rock.

geo_man · June 2005

Hi,

I have a 3cyclinder engine with 1L. I only get 35 MPG is that a good gas milage and if not what could be the problem. please help me thanks

wheel50 · June 2005

I have a 91 firefly 4 door hatchback with an 3cyl, 1 litre 3speed Auto. I would like to swap out to a 5 speed. If I can find a donar car is it possilbe? What are the major problems?

thanks

wheel50 · June 2005

Is it an auto? How many miles?

ski_natzi · June 2005

Geo man,
My same engine gets 36.5 all the time so you are doing good as far as i can see. I only got 35,000 miles on mine. Funny thing is i put the expensive gas in and i only got 2 mpg more than the cheap stuff. Cheap stuff ROCKS!!

joes1 · June 2005

OK
WHY DID YOU GET A FOUR CYLINDER AND AN AUTOMATIC TRANNY IN A CAR DESIGNED FOR MAXIMUM FRUGALITY?
Anyhow, i doubt that that is normal, but have you used this vehicle in a manner that it was not designed for? I ask this because that doesnt fit with my assertion that Metros are quality cars for the cheap or cashstrapped.

joes1 · June 2005

i think that there is some kind of problem there. i mean, for a Metro, that mileage is horrific. have you seen those commercials for air filters at autozone? i suggest you invest in one. too, get a tuneup. because otherwise, there are probably some things that you may be unaware of. also, if you have a/c, DO NOT RUN THE AIR CONDITIONING!!!! do you haul passengers of largish size on a frequent basis? that could be an issue.

joes1 · June 2005

WELL DUH!!!
Geo metros are designed for three purposes:
(1) to be super cheap
(2) to be super frugal
(3) to be super reliable.

joes1 · June 2005

Howdy, the Lorax
i would recommend the Metro because they are super frugal, super cheap, and super reliable. if you expect merc-benz levels of refinement and quiet, stay away and leave the metros to me! lol. but seriously, a Ford aspire isnt as frugal and has some electric issues, plus it is a F-O-R-D. for a Metro, base coupe, three cylinder, five speed, NO A/C. that is the way to go if you want a car that i mentioned at the beginning.
god bless and good luck

joes1 · June 2005

Hello, John, this is Joe speaking.
The two door would probably be a smidge more peppy, and are even easier to park. a/c should not even have been an OPTION on Metros. you are not supposed to neglect a car in the first place.
With them Suburbans clogging the interstates, defensive driving is a must in a little metro.
good luck and God bless
Joe

joes1 · June 2005

two words:
HECK NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

stobar · June 2005

Joes1 - bought my '98 Metro a little over 3 months ago. 3 cylinder, 1 liter hatchback - no A/C. Car was owned by a retiree in Florida and only had a little over 28K miles on it. Put four new tires on it and replaced all belts, hoses, air filter and fluids. Sort of went through a break-in again with all the parts as mileage was around 38-39 mpg. Now I'm up to 42-43. Still think I should get better than that. I'm not sure if the fuel filter was replaced, so going to have that checked out soon. Since it's 7 years old, am wondering about the timing belt. Seems as if it would age just as well as a fan belt, but mechanic said it looked good. Car was originally rated at 49 mpg highway and have seen others get in the low 50's with the same engine. Any suggestions for better mileage, or should I be happy with what I have now? Thanks.

whwar9739 · June 2005

:sick: Ok I already know of a couple of things that need fixing and I plan on doing that ASAP. The big thing is that after having the check engine light come on the car will not start now. I checked the diagnostic code and from the haynes manual it is coolant sensor circuit (low-voltage input, high engine temperature indicated). I would like to know if anyone else has had this problem and what can I do to fix the problem. I already know that I need to replace the radiator core, because it is leaking but outside of that I am not sure why the engine will not start. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!! :sick:

nckjgdmn · June 2005

I just replaced the oil pan in my 99 Metro. The guy that had it before must have made a habit of driving threw salty roads. Anyway when I bought the new pan the first one turned out to be the wrong one. It doesn't have to place for the sensor on the side as mine does. The second one I bought worked out fine and I put it in with any problems, but now Im stuck with an oil pan that will fit any 1.0 L metro from I believe 95-98. If anyone is in need of a pan let me know. If not Ill just post it on E-bay.

Sylvia · June 2005

Reminder - no buying or selling in the Forums.

Thanks!

bpl420ogdank · June 2005

i am installing fog lights and i need to connect some wires to parking light switch but i cant figure out where the switch is can someone help me

[BPL] 420[OG DANK]

Sylvia · June 2005

If you don't get an answer in this discussion, you might want to try asking in the Maintenance & Repair board and the discussion Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy

jlmmns · June 2005

I have a 93 convertible with automatic transmission. I had a rebuilt transmission installed last year and this morning when I attemted to put it in gear nothing happened. It is stuck in neutral. Any ideas what the problem may be? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

nckjgdmn · June 2005

It sounds like your shift linkage as come disconnected. I haven't gotten into on, but my budy says that if you take the center console off you sould be able to fix it from there. Good luck

ecu77 · July 2005

I have a 2001 Metro LSI auto with 57K (bought at 48K) and get 33 combined mileage day in and out. I feel sorry for the Yukon XL people at the pumps.... Question: The owners manual call for valve lash check/adjustment every 15K. How many of you out there heed this requirement? Suggestions?

mikecan · July 2005

Any help would be appreciated.

I have checked the fuses, replaced them as well. Replaced the bulbs.

All of my other electrical is working fine. I know about a brake pedal switch but can't locate it.

Thanks in advance.

johnsnlg · July 2005

I have replaced the clutch, an axle and now the tensioner for the timing belt. I have done this for other cars and it was a 8th the cost of this supposedly cheaper car.My none GM mechanical who is supposedly "honest" charged me $285 for a tensioner.
Is this bogus...?
I just don't get the high prices on these cheaper cars? :mad:

user63 · July 2005

I have a 96 metro. 3cyl 5speed. I was wondering what the maximum amount of miles I can get out of this car is. I change the oil very regularly, and keep up with all the other maintence items. When I got it it had 133,000 miles. Now a year later it has 155,000 miles. When you rev the motor it spits a little oil smoke, is this a bad sign or to be expected?

geonut · July 2005

I love my Metro 1991 model, five speed manual. 175,000 miles on it, engine and gear box never touched, clutch adjusted once, and that is it. I still can get 47 in city and 53 on country roads.
But a problem is driving me nuts. :confuse: There is some kind of intermittent short in the electrical system running the battery down, sometimes overnight. This has been going on for many months, but only periodic. Now it is happening more often. My mechanic does not seem to be able to find the problem. Does anyone have any great ideas of how to fix this nightmare?

geonut · July 2005

As you will note from my post re an electrical problem, I have a 1991 Geo Metro, five speed manual, that is still alive and kicking. It is beginning to look a bit beat up, but still runs well. It has never used oil (at least I have never had to add oil between oil changes - which I try to do every 3000 miles, no more than 4,000)
The engine has never given me any problems, nor the transmission. I thought the clutch had had it because it began to slip about a year ago. All it needed was a quick adjustment.
The problems have been electrical. First the control box for the headlights, but that was eventually resolved. And now I have this frustrating problem of a dead battery frequently. I always check the car about 15 minutes before I need to leave, and just hook up the battery charger if needed.
Hope this gives you some useful info.

user63 · July 2005

make sure the alternator is performing properly, the auto parts store should be able to test it, make suere the alternator belt is tight enough, but not over tight, that will kill the alternator. Check for wires to and from the battery and alternator for corroded connections and for corrotion inside the wire which would require the wire being replaced. Finally once a car battery dies so many times, it goes bad and must be replaced. Hope this helps.

beeman · July 2005

Can you tell if your computer is working? Is the oil light dim? I would start by seeing if there is a ground issue. I know on the 89's-93's the grounds for the computers attach onto the back of the trottle body (they gave me almost exact same problem you have - they weren't connected)

twigbranch · July 2005

I have seen engines for sale on e-bay and most of them come from the west coast.

justine1 · July 2005

I had a similar problem with my 95 Geo. It either wouldn't start or just had no guts. My mechanic found that it was the little pin that held the piston/crankshaft in place - I had recently changed the head gasket and he said that the person who had done this had not tightened this part enough. He told me he managed to change the (tiny) part (added some glue as the part it was connected to had worn down). It took him some time to find the problem as other people has said it must be dirty sparkplugs or clogged cylinders -anyhoo, it seems to have done the trick. I also had a problem some time ago with losing power, this one was due however to a loose belt. Hope this helps.

gabrock · August 2005

I just bought a 93 Geo Metro (3cyl. 1 ltr.) from a pizza delivery joint, they were hauling it off to the junk yard. They said it needs a clutch, and they thought 1st gear was out. It runs great, 113k miles, just nickle and dimed to death. If you physically (Very hard), push and hold it in first gear it goes, but wants to jump out. Clutch definately shot, and couldn't drive it very far, but the rest of the gears seam good. I'm thinking there are synchronizers for each gear. My questions are: Does this sound like a synchronizer? Is this a big (expensive) job for a tranmission shop? Or should I be looking at a used transmission from a junkyard. Also I read on another web page where a guy put a transmission out of a GEO convertible, into his GEO Metro, because the convertible had a final drive of 4.35, verses 4.10 for the Metro. What would the advantage of this be, gas mileage, and would you sacrafice power? I am planning to haul 20-50 newspaper bundles with this vehicle nightly. thanks Grant

wincent · August 2005

I recently bought a 94 geo metro and my friend hooked the battery up backwards for a few seconds.. now no power, lights wont come on. my mechanic said to check the primary fuse but i cant find it.. help

jim_kohan · August 2005

Just bought a 2001 Metro LSi Sedan (1.3L with AT) with 64K on the odometer from a local dealer last week. I've put around 160 miles in it so far, and love it. I do a 70-30 ratio of city to freeway driving, and averaged 29.4 MPG on my first 3/4 tank of gas (and that was running with a leaky throttle body for a good part of the time). Now before you bemoan the lack of MPG, please realize that I traded in a 1995 Windstar 3.8L with 100K on the odometer that was getting ~ 16 MPG for the same driving, so I'm very happy. I could drive farther on the Windstar, but then again the gas tank was 2.5 times larger!

I'm 6'2", 245 pounds, and am amazed at how much room I have in this car! The salesman wasn't a small guy either, and we both fit with no problems during the test drive.

The dealership (Fred Martin, in Hartville, OH) replaced both tie rod ends, did a full alignment, a full brake job, and (just this morning) replaced the rear swaybar bushings. All at no cost!

Only problems I've got with the car is a clunk in the front end - the dealership and I seem to agree that the rack & pinion bushings are wearing out, allowing the tie rods to move slightly when you hit a bump. Sound feasible?

escapingoth · September 2005

I just bought a 95 Geo Metro and when I tried to start it the other day, the engine would crank but would not fire. I found the ignition fuse blown. I put another fuse in and it blew as soon as I switched the ignition key to run (just before start). After looking further I checked and tested the ignition coil and the resistance is in the realm of what the Haynes manual says. I then found that if I left the ground wire off from the coil to the block the fuse would not blow.
Has anyone else had this problem, and does anyone know what the ground strap is for, and do I need to replace the coil.
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Chevrolet/Geo Metro

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