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Chevrolet/Geo Metro

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    torontoworkertorontoworker Member Posts: 1
    Hi all, new here.

    Just picked up a 95 GEO Metro Lsi (auto) with 68K on the dial for $1800 CAN. It's in great shape with a 1year old exhust system, new brakes, new plug cables, new timing belt and new coil. After market Sony CD/AM/FM with rear speakers sitting in truck for some reason not hooked up. (?)

    It's in a funky metallic purple that has a few chips and scratches that I want to touch up. Does anyone know the paint code off hand for this colour? Is the paint code in my VIN number?

    This is my third car of this type of class.

    - Had an 89 Chev Sprint (3cly) which I put 346K . The clutch caught fire, jammed the car in gear, locked the front end, clutch cable broke and the car slid to the side of the road and burnt to the ground. Not a good day - not a good way to end a relationship with what was agood car. Saved the child car seat and my cell phone.

    - Had a 97 3 door, 4cly, 5 speed Geo Metro. Got to 80K before deer decided to mate with car at 120KPH. Deer ended up in backseat and took passenger side airbag with it, (Gift wrapped?). Gave the cop the deer.

    This is going to be my kids car as I won't let her drive the 05 CTS and she "can't be seen" in the 97 Taraus Wagon! So the *Grape* is her car.
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    sterjesssterjess Member Posts: 2
    New Page 2




    Hello all, I have a question of why my oil pressure light won't go out after I just rebuilt my
    engine in my '92 Geo Metro. I used all standard size bearings. I pulled my oil pressure sending
    unit and started it to see if any oil is getting to it and oil started coming out of the hole so
    oil is being pumped, just not very much it seems. When I put it together I used assembly lube on
    all the bearings, could it be that this lube is blocking the passages some and might just take
    awhile of running to get through? I let it run for a minute or so and pulled my oil fill cap off
    to see if any oil was being thrown by the cam and it doesn't appear that it is. I also noticed
    when I was putting it together the oil passages on the head gasket I used didn't seem to be the
    same sizes as the passages on the head and block. The rebuild kit I used is by ITM if anyone has
    used them before. I've only let it run a couple of minutes since the rebuild but since the light
    isn't going off I'm not sure it's a good idea to let it run much more w/o knowing why it doesn't
    appear to have oil pressure. Any input would be appreciated.
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    patrussellpatrussell Member Posts: 1
    Just replaced the back brakes on my 94 Metro and now have significantly increased road noise. I don't see any way to adjust them other than taking the drum off again. Am I missing something?

    Also, the brake pedal has always had a lot of travel. New brakes on the front and rear have not fixed this...any thoughts?

    Thanks,
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    geno412geno412 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 92 LSI 3 cyl a/t that stays in third gear when shift lever is in drive. Works ok if shifted manually. Problem is intermittent (more often in colder temps). Thanks....geno412
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    ctg2ctg2 Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking to switch the 12" wheels to 14" wheels I have mustang II wheels that have a 4/1/4 bolt pattern anybody got any ideas how I can use them? they are 14"x7" with 205/60/14 tires I'm building a Geo trike so don't have to worry about rubbing when I turn the wheels will be locked.
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    overdose2thisoverdose2this Member Posts: 1
    hi i'm new here. i juts recently bought a 2001 metro lsi forma ford dealerhip used. it had 50k miles on it and ran great. now i tried to install a cd player, and i had bought the wrong wiring harness. i replaced everything where it was. my service engine soon light is on now, the dome light doesn't work, and the stereo won't work. can anyone tell me where the damn fuse box is located in this car? oh yeah and since my check engine ligth has come on, the gas mileage has dropped maybe 5 mpg. but i can still live with 32 mpg freeway compared to 15 from my ford ranger.
    thanks
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    3banger3banger Member Posts: 7
    yes, it sounds as if the synchro and/or gear is damaged. First, it is not really worth removing a tranny, and opening it up just to replace a synchro. Most of the cost is in labor anyway. The tranny has to come out no matter what you do. So take into consideration, what kind of shape the car is in, and if YOU think its worth it to rebuild the tranny. My suggestion is 1) If you really want a rebuilt one, find a shop that has one already done and swap the core, I just think its simpler that way. 2) Go to you local salvage yard and get a replacement. Make sure you service the tranny filter/fluid.

    Consider this labor: probably around $400 US from your local grease slinger. Rebuilt transmission, probably $500-$1000 US (just guessing)
    Salvage yard, probably around $150-$250 US (just guessing)

    check out JDM (Japanese domestic marketing) that is where I just got my engine from, they have low mileage engines and transmissions. good luck!
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    3banger3banger Member Posts: 7
    look under the spare tire for a plate. there is about a dozon locations they have been put, but thats where it is on my 94 metro.
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    3banger3banger Member Posts: 7
    Sounds feasible, but not reasonable! why would a rack & pinion go bad on a car not even 5 years old? If this is the case I would suspect defective parts, or abuse.
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    3banger3banger Member Posts: 7
    open the hood, on the drivers side above the fender well beside the shock tower, and the battery there is a black box pull the cover, there are tabs on the side, mine was a small pain to get off because of the constricted space. The cover you pulled off has the diagram of what fuses go to what. Look down through the clear top covers and you can see whats blown.

    When I was putting my engine in the alternator wire grounded out, and I blew the main 60A. I popped the top off the fuse and put a drop of soldier on it. WARNING! dont do that its dangerous, and can ruin your parts, I only did that in the shop, until I could get a replacement.
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    3banger3banger Member Posts: 7
    I've used assembly lube on dozens of rebuilds, its in all the manuals. If you used a regular assembly lube' or vasoline, its not the problem. I'm assuming you serviced the oil pump in the rebuild. As far as the gaskets are concerned, Its a good idea to match/port every gasket you install. I could see a low flow, but not a no flow situation, assuming you got the right gasket, and installed it correctly.

    check the codes. record them then clear the codes, umm pull the brake light fuse I think. then run it a few mins and check the codes again. It could be a stored error from the past screwing things up.

    All I can say about the oil under the valve cover is that I noticed small ie 1.5L engines dont usually 'sling' much if any oil under the valve cover on an OHC at idle. It just kinda dribbles down from the main caps. but thats just my experience.

    Hope I've helped
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    3banger3banger Member Posts: 7
    the fuse block is located under the left side of the instrument panel.
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    3banger3banger Member Posts: 7
    I need a quality scan of a 94 Geo Metro (federal) VECI label. 3 cyl 1.0 liter A/T. I have read elsewhere that the ignition timing is 5 btdc idle 850.but it seems to run like a lame dog like that. rough idle and all that. push it back to 6 - 8 btdc and it smooths out. I really want all the MPG I can squeeze out, so getting the timing exactly right is imperative. I'm sure some nice person will post the specs, but I really, really would love a quality scan, so I could replace my destroyed label.
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    gobuggogobuggo Member Posts: 1
    Went to replace the trans in my 96 Metro 1.0 ltr. Second gear was getting harder and harder to get in and then stay in...so hard I dislocated my index finger...yah, I know. It's hard enough to accelerate without having to deal with second. Anyways, last night I had the engine supported with a cherry picker and front mount only..trans out. I went in this morning and saw that the cherry picker had let the engine lower and had kind of bent that wierd long metal portion of the radiator line that appears to go directly into the water pump from the bottom of the radiator. It also appeared to leak coolant out of the place where it enters the back of the pump, large amount on floor. How is this thing held in there and am I going to have problems with it leaking when all is back together. My manual...junk, doesn't even show a picture of this tube let alone describe how it's mounted in. To me, it appears to be pressed in or something :cry: . By the way, don't ever order those complete clutch assembly kits from NAPA....the disc actually wouldn't even fit into the pressure plate...I had to trim it extensively with a Makita...nice.
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    escapingothescapingoth Member Posts: 7
    I finally found the problem. I traced it to two problems. I pulled the fuse box and found the wiring connector for the ignition was burnt really badly (melted the plastic on the body of the fuse box and the connector). I felt really confident after I replaced the fuse box but when I turned the ignition key to run the fuse blew again. rats!!!
    I finally found that the O2 wires just above the sensor were shorting together. I managed to buy some of that electrical tape in a can, I brushed that on and all is well again.
    Thanks for all of the suggestions that I got, I did try some of them but unfortunately they didn't work. :):):):)
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    escapingothescapingoth Member Posts: 7
    Just in case (you have probably already thought of it, but it's worth mentioning) have you also flushed and bled the brakes.
    Hans :)
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    escapingothescapingoth Member Posts: 7
    I have a problem with downshifting from 3 to 2. I found by fluke that if I try to push slightly into 1st from 3 it will go into 2nd. I have changed the transaxle fluid ( I think the old stuff was probably original 178k) to semi synthetic, I was wondering if anyone has noticed a big diference in using the full synthetic, or even if someone things that going back to the mineral oil versus the semi would be better.
    Thanks
    Hans :)
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    amobergamoberg Member Posts: 2
    Not to worry!! I thought I killed mine when I did an engine swap on my 91. All you have to do is take off that radiator line, take the one bolt that brackets it onto the engine, then pull it out. It is only held into the water pump with an o-ring. Also, check for rust on the front flange of it, and if it is damaged, you can get one off any Geo Metro 3 cyl. that you find in the wrecking yard. Model years 1995 and newer. Let me know if you get it!
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    amobergamoberg Member Posts: 2
    Just so you know, the fluid for a manual trransmission for the Geo is actually a synthetic fluid, with a GM specification number made for these transmissions. The one way around using the GM spec fluid is getting a hold of a Red Line Oil distributor and getting Red Line MTL (Manual Transmission Lubricant) from them. It meets the specs from GM as the replacement fluid. The shop I work in carries it here in So Cal. Give it a shot! If that does not do it, it may be the syncro in the trans.
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    muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    Sorry to bust in on this forum, but on friday I bought a 1990 Suzuki Swift GT. I guess that makes us cousins now :D
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    leezleleeleezlelee Member Posts: 1
    We bought a '99 Chev Metro in the summer. A few days ago the dash lights and all the outside marker lights stopped working. My husband believes he need to replace the light switch to rectify the problem. The headlights still work.

    Can anyone provide step-by-step instructions on how to do this? Apparently we can get the part for about $20, so of course would want to install ourselves.

    Thanks in advance for any help.

    Lianne
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    whitetopwhitetop Member Posts: 36
    I have a '93 Metro convertible with the 1.0 engine. It's always had a rough idle when below 1000 RPM, even with new plugs, rotor, wires, distributor cap, and timing check/set. I keep the idle speed set higher than recommended and it seems to smooth it out, but wonder if anyone has had a similar problems.

    It also seems to improve when I run injector cleaner through the gas tank, but the fix is only temporary.

    Any ideas would be appreciated.
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    metromommetromom Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Metro 4 door, automatic, 4cyl. The body is in great shape except for minor hail damage and a few stains on the interior. The garage says it has low/no compression in one cylinder and needs another motor or complete overhaul. (I had been crossing my fingers that it would only be the headgasket) I've checked every salvage place in 60 miles with no luck. Any ideas where I can find a motor on line maybe? or even a round-house figure of what one may cost IF i do find one? any help is appreciated, Thanks!!
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    stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    I've had a '92 Metro LSI convertible w 1.0L engine since new. Idle always rough below 1K - the engine only has 3 cylinders, and 3 into a 4 cycle engine doesn't come out even!

    80K miles on it so far - engine remains top notch; ditto clutch, 5 speed manual transaxle, etc. I had front seats re-covered locally @ $150 a seat - well worth it in a (then) 10 yr old car I intended to keep.

    I consistently get 32 -35 mpg in town; out of town depends on speed & wind. 70 mph @ no wind - 40 - 42 mpg; 75 (OK tollway - legal!) into 25 - 30 mph headwind - 30 mpg.

    Goes 3000 miles betw oil changes & have never had to add oil.

    Both Bridgestone & Pirelli 55 profile tires (as specified in the book) are awful; I now have a set of Michelins on it - 60 profile, so speedometer is off 5%, but much better traction on wet streets, smoother ride, and handling just as good. A bit of a penalty on acceleration, but on a car that takes > 20 seconds from 0 to 60, it doesn't really matter!

    I hope you enjoy yours - I'm guessing it's not a ragtop - mine is & I'm still in love with it.
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    whitetopwhitetop Member Posts: 36
    Thanks for writing. My '93 has 115K miles on it. It had 103K on it when I bought it 4 1/2 years ago. I drive it to work almost every day. I haven't checked mileage for a while, but I can drive three weeks or more on one tank of gas, which is perfect with today's prices. It also has a 5-speed like yours, no power steering or brakes, and doesn't burn any oil. It just has that rough idle. The car had 175/70 tires on it when I bought it and they look good. My speedometer is off a bit, too.

    My interior is in really good shape other than the dashboard, which needs to be replaced. I had it repainted the original color (Polynesian Green) and I had a new custom white ragtop put on last fall. The top is usually down, especially since the A/C keeps going south. I'm not going to spend any more money on it for a while.

    Thanks again for writing. I guess I won't worry about it for a while. I've always thought it was crazy to think three cylinders could run as smoothly as four. Where are you in OK? I bought this one in Tulsa.
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    pirate1pirate1 Member Posts: 1
    Metros,

    Will upgrading my tire size from 155/80/13 to 175/70/13 (2001 1.3 auto) hurt my fuel mileage (a solid 33 mixed driving)? Has anyone done this? Is hydroplaning worse when upgrading the tire size? Please advise. Go Metro! 61K and reliable city.
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    stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    Sorry for missing on your 1st post that you have a ragtop. I'm in Amarillo, TX, about 5 1/2 hrs from Tulsa.

    My paint still looks good if I wax it, but, after 13 years, the clearcoat is gone. I took it to a body shop recently - the owner told me to wax it 4 times a year and not spend the $$ to have it repainted until the actual paint (blue) deteriorates. Yesterday I had it washed - then I used Kit car wax on it - it still looks good. Also, to get the scratches out of the rear window I use Kit scratch remover - I still have the original window, and it is in really good shape. Of course, it has been garage kept - I think that helps, but, like you, it's driven almost every day. In winter, with lots of snow, I drive my 4wd F250 stick Diesel - "slight" difference in clutch pressure & torque!

    Best to you.
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    stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    I didn't notice any gas savings going from the original 165/55/13's to 165/60/13's, when I went from very rough-riding Pirellis to extremely smooth-riding Michelins. Even so, the mileage didn't change. On the highway, wind affects milage more than anything else (except speed, of course). Per hydroplaning, the car handles far better in wet weather with the new Michelins - probably tire design, though, because thenew & old tires are the same width. On the other hand, not a lot of rain here in Amarillo, TX. 80K on blue Geo and going strong. Changing tires will affect the accuracy of your speedo, so be sure to use the mile markers on an expressway to see by what percent it is off when you do change or you'll attact some unwanted attention. My change resulted in my going 5% faster than speedo registered - and in 5% better mileage than the calculation yields, since I've gone farther than the speedo shows.

    Larger diameter tires WILL negatively affect acceleration - so be prepared for that.

    Best to you.
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    metromanmetroman Member Posts: 1
    In my opinion, with the current fuel crisis; I feel the only Metros or
    Fireflies worth talking about are the 3 cylinder models coupled with a five
    speed. I've read through all of these postings for fun, and afterward I got the feeling that there should be a separate forum for us. Why did they ever bother building
    a four cylinder automatic for this car? It only boosted the horsepower slightly and killed the fuel economy. An automatic with overdrive Chevy Cavalier with more than twice the engine does better in fuel economy. I think people in North America have a stigma with the whole idea of driving a car with only 3 cylinders. I've never had trouble getting up to highway speeds even with 3 adults in the car. I think that a lot of people need to change their thinking before our crisis gets worse. I have owned a 1997 Geo Metro for seven years now with no major problems. I've got 80,000 miles on it, and my only complaint is that its rusting out. I live in an area where there is way too much salt used on the roads, so it is a losing battle. I've never had the opportunity to keep it in a garage, so that does not help. I cared for it with Mobil One synthetic, and it does not burn any oil. It runs as good as day one. I am currently looking for another one from the south or out west, 95 or newer unless I found a mint XFi. I really wish they still made these cars, they are very difficult to find with what I'm looking for. I'm guessing people either trash these
    cars, or don't let go of them.

    .
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    stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    I think there may be differences between the years we own. The '92 convertible was only available from Geo as a 3 cylinder, although it was available directly from Suzuki as a 4 cylinder. As I understand it, both cars were also available with a 3 speed automatic.

    I had the opportunity to drive an automatic rental Metro convertible (3 cylinder) in Miami the summer before I bought my stick. My thoughts at the time were that, if the car came with a decent 5 speed & clutch, it would be a fun car to drive. I sure never wanted to own that 3 cylinder engine coupled to the 3 speed automatic. Absolutely terrible acceleration - maybe 10 - 15 seconds to 30mph???

    Having kept it for 13 years (and still willing to hand wax it - I'm nearly 63), I guess I could say that the 5 speed has been a fun car - at least I'm still in love with it! You'd get a second opinion, though, from my wife. The seats hurt her back unless we pad the seat with lots of pillows, and she really has no desire to examine the undercarriage of 18 wheelers at 70mph while driving down the highway!
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    whitetopwhitetop Member Posts: 36
    I don't care what people think of a three-cylider engine - I laugh at all of those folks as I drive past the gas pumps for more than three weeks between fill-ups. When I was looking for a "project car" a few years ago I limited my search to a Metro convertible because I had already had good success with Geo/Suzuki with a Tracker I had for almost six years and the fact that the Metro was essentially a simple and cheap car to work on. I missed working on cars as they became more and more complicated. My Metro only came with a three-cylinder, so that wasn't even a consideration, but I most definitely wanted a five-speed. I have driven a few small (cheap) cars with an automatic and knew I couldn't handle that kind of slow. I also wanted one with factory air, which mine has, but I am getting tired of spending money on it. It also saps the power so much you can hardly believe it. I can only imagine how much worse it would have been with an automatic transmission. My car had 103K on it when I bought it, and it had not been treated well - the oil pan was full of something like molasses. However, it was running, and still is. After four years of TLC it looks brand-new again. I just turned over 114K and drive it nearly every day. I don't use it for traveling, but around town with the top down you can't beat the fun factor. Enjoy yours. Hope you find a good replacement.
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    2kmetro2kmetro Member Posts: 1
    My 97 Metro rusted in what I guess is the usual weak spot - where lower a-frame bolts to body. I liked the 3cyl 5speed (my second) enough that I flew to Florida and bought a 2000 Metro in New Port Richie. I knew it was risky buying another Metro in the rust prone northern states. I bought the 2000 just a few months ago before gas went over $2/gal. Now they are tough to find (3 cyl standard). I agree that the 4 cylinder auto tranny Metro is a waste. I like my Metro but would also drive a bigger car if I couldn't get 45 MPG.
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    whitetopwhitetop Member Posts: 36
    My paint really had deteriorated. The car had apparently started out in Florida and I think the sun killed the paint and the dashboard. That's why I went ahead and had it painted. I only spent $700 on the paint job. I wasn't willing to spend more than that because I have already spent way more than I should have for a car that's not worth much. However, the paint looks good, and the white top is really sharp. I need to find a good dashboard and finish restoring the interior. It won't take much. I eventually would like to put it in some local car shows. I'm sure some folks would think it was a joke, but not me - I"m crazy about the car.

    Is your blue one the metallic blue or the bright one? Thanks for the advice about the KIT scratch remover. I already have some bad ones on the new back window. Do you have the scratch protector piece that was supposed to attach to the velcro on the top? MIne was long gone when I bought it.

    Take care.
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    stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    I'm partly color-blind, so I'll take a guess at which blue I have - it's sort of a medium blue - neither pale blue nor midnight blue, and it does not have any metallic flakes in it.

    Yes, I still have the scratch protector - it is vinyl on one side (the side which does NOT touch the window) and sort of a thin terry-cloth on the other. I had misplaced it earlier this summer, and we just used a soft beach towel in its place. For the few weeks I needed it (until I found the original), it seemed to work quite well.

    Per another comment also written today, don't be afraid to use the Metro for long-distance travel. Mine never had air conditioning - and my wife and I had some very uncomfortable Sunday afternoon drives home to Amarillo from Albuquerque - top town, we just got too much sun - top up, and the heat got even worse.

    When I retired, I knew I'd be doing some travelling without my wife, since she wasn't ready to retire yet. I already trusted the Metro in snow, but I added after-market air conditioning (a place in Phoenix) in May of 2004. That meant I could travel however far I wanted any time of the year. In the last 2 years, the car has been to St. Louis, Chicago (twice), Washington (DC), El Paso, Albuquerque - this time with air!, and Austin several times. One of the Chicago trips & the DC trip were both in winter.

    In all that travel, the only unexpected incident came when someone pulled up alongside me at a stop light in east Texas. All of a sudden I heard an extremely loud exhaust. Unfortunately, when the person pulled away, the noise remained. I pulled over into a parking lot, opened the hood, and found out that one of my 3 spark plugs had come out of the cylinder head. Can't explain it - the plug had been there between 5k & 10k miles. I let it cool off a bit, carefully seated it so I wouldn't strip the threads, then used my thin wall deep socket (normally used for removing my alloy wheels - fortunately the wheel nuts & the spark plugs turned out to be the same size) to tighten the plug. Voila - problem solved. When I got home, I had my regular mechanic torque all the plugs to proper specs.

    Perhaps the most "interesting" travel segment in all the above was from Joplin to Oklahoma City. The tollroad is posted at 75mph, and, at least for someone who's lived in Amarillo for 25 years, lots of hills. Oh yeah, summertime & the new compressor, as well. Oh - did I forget to mention? A 25 mph headwind, too. At least the Metro tried to stay at the posted limit! It came amazingly close (after all, Harleys have 200cc more than do the Metros), but to do so, I could only run the AC compressor while going down hill. Probably my worst mileage ever in the poor baby - just over 30 mpg. Throttle floored the entire trip (except when parting with my cash at the tollbooth).

    On the other hand, the triangle trip from Amarillo to El Paso to Austin & return to Amarillo netted 40mpg much of the time - it was March - we rarely used the compressor, and there really wasn't much wind to speak of.

    Per the car not being worth much, the only stick LSI convertible I could find on the web was going for $2700 - way above the Edmunds estimate. At this point, higher gas prices will probably increase the value of the car, if anything.

    Oh, by the way, her name is Aleytys - the only clue I'll give you is that the name comes from a series of science fiction novels. Like the heroine the car is named for, neither ever quits trying.

    Best to you & yours.
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    stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    Did you know Suzuki is now marketing a new Swift in Europe, Japan, China, & India? No convertible - 3 & 5 door hatchbacks. 3 engines - 1.3, 1.5 gas, & turbo Diesel. Apparently quite a waiting list - production @ 3K a month; sales @ 7K a month.

    Enjoy your GT. Stick or auto? Is the GT a convertible?

    Best to you & yours.
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    muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    I've been watching the Swift, and 1.6 liter Swift Sport, overseas, I hope it makes it to North America someday.

    My Swift is a 2-door hatchback, with a 5-spd. There was no convertible available, that was only for the Metro. Great car so far - best $800 I ever spent anyway :)
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    whitetopwhitetop Member Posts: 36
    I know which blue you're talking about - I saw one in Wichita when I was looking for a car, but it was pretty well worn out.

    The white top on mine has made a huge difference in how cool it is during warm weather. It also looks really good, and sets the car off from others. I will probably put another A/C compressor on it next spring. Right now I'm just tired of spending money on it.

    It's funny that you mentioned the trip from Joplin to OKC. I live in Joplin and bought the car in Tulsa. The only time I drove it on that road was the time I brought it home. I could tell it had been mistreated in its former life and the whole time I kept waiting for all the dashlights to come on and indicate total engine failure. I was afraid to drive it over 70 MPH but when I apologized to the friend following me he assured me I was driving at the speed limit. That was before I know about the effect of the larger tires. It's actually around 4 mph off. Now I usually limit out-of-town trips to 50 miles or so.

    Did Sprint also make a convertible during the same years? I've seen pictures of Pontiac Fireflies for sale in Canada, but didn't know about the Sprint.

    My car's name is Fluffy. Actually, I name pretty much everything Fluffy.

    Take care.
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    stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    I don't know about the Sprint - I don't remember the name. The reason I actually got interested in the Metro was the Miami trip - it only cost $10 more to rent the convertible, so I did.

    If you need the name of the company in Phoenix from which I bought the after market AC, let me know - I should still have the receipt. I've had some leaks, but I think the Phoenix company expected the installer to do a final crimp on the connectors. My installers didn't realize they were supposed to do so, and, obviously, the fittings on the ends of the hoses started to leak. The second time it happened, I had the mechanic remove all the hoses & re-crimp all of them. Discharging & charging the system is the expensive part - fixing the hose fittings wasn't expensive at all. The rest of the system has worked fine, and, since they've all been re-crimped, the hoses haven't leaked, either. We'll see what happens over the winter.

    I had an MG Midget that had been mistreated in its former life - unfortunately, I was never able to get everything fixed completely, because when I'd start on another problem the car had, one of the ones I had already fixed broke again. I hope Fluffy's not doing that to you.

    Mine has the original black top - I agree, white would be much cooler in the summer, but normally, in summer, I just leave the top down unless there's the threat of rain - which isn't very often in Amarillo. Fortunately a Club bar across the steering wheel has been enough to discourage amateur thieves and joy riders, and the pros know the car isn't worth the effort to steal & try to sell! Leaving the top down probably has helped preserve the rear window, too - it rarely sits out exposed the sun.

    Joplin is a much wetter climate - I imagine you get a threat of rain far more often than we do.

    Per the 4 mph off - that probably is not a constant - it's probably a constant percent based on the speed you're actually going. Mine is 5% - that's 1.5 mph @ 30mph; 3mph @ 60mph, etc.

    When you calculate mpg, don't forget to include the additional miles you actually drove that the odometer didn't record - again, in my case, it's 5%. After I calculate my initial mpg, I multiply it by 1.05 to find the true mpg.

    Maybe someday Fluffy & Aleytys will get to meet - my daughter lives in DC, and I expect I'll be headed that way again sometime in the future.

    Best,

    Stan
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    whitetopwhitetop Member Posts: 36
    It's good to know that I'm actually getting better mileage than I thought. I quit figuring the mileage a long time ago. I just don't visit the pumps very often and I drive it almost every day. I really haven't spent much money on the car at all - only on the A/C. The only major thing that's broken since I had the car was the clutch, which was replaced at 110,000 miles. I have systematically replaced things like the fuel filter, etc. I will be having the timing belt changed before too long. When I bought the car there were many important things that had supposedly been replaced already. I give it new plugs, air filter, PCV, and set the timing every summer, and that seems to keep things in line. I've also replaced the rotor and distributor cap. The car is very simple to work on. I only hire out the things I don't want to do myself.

    It's funny to hear you talk about the "Club." I always use mine, too. I figure the car is worthless to a thief, but I would like to mame sure it's there when I come out of someplace. I kind of hope they never become real collector items. Someone could pick it up and put it in the bed of a truck, I think. Have you ever parked next to an SUV and noticed how tiny the Metro really is?

    Take care, and let me know when you're headed this way.

    Michael
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    stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    My repair experience has been similar to yours - plugs, cap, etc around 65,000 miles. Per my choice, I have the timing belt changed every 30,000 to 40,000 miles - even though it's a "clearance" engine, I don't want to be stranded, since I use the car out of town a lot.

    So far my "Club" has worked - I guess - at least no one has stolen the car since I bought it (but then I've heard that wearing copper bracelets in Amarillo prevents one from being trampled by a herd of elephants, too!). Who knows whether there's a cause & effect relationship here - still, I keep doing it.

    Per actual repairs I think I had to once replace the water pump - the bearing had begun to squeek.

    I haven't had the timing set (other than when the plugs, cap, etc. were replaced), but that sounds like a good idea the next time the car goes in for an oil change.

    I'll try to remember to let you know the next time I head up I-44.

    Best to you, Fluffy, & yours,

    Stan
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    stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    Something I forgot to mention - my wife has 2 things she dislikes about the car - the first is the seats (she gets a sore back unless she pads her seat with lots of pillows on a long drive) - the other is the "opportunity" to examine the undercarriage of 18-wheelers at 70mph - yes, we HAVE noticed how small the Metro really is!

    When I pull into a parking space, I usually don't pull all the way in - otherwise someone might not see the car, assume the space was empty, and not be able to stop in time to avoid a crash when pulling in.

    Best,

    Stan
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    chevygirl3chevygirl3 Member Posts: 1
    :cry: My poor Metro (2000, 1.0, 3 cyl.) is in need of help. I was hoping you or someone else could give me heads up on anything I should know about my car. My boyfriend gave it to me and I noticed it needed maintainence right away. Not long after I took over driving it in July I started noticing noise and symtoms of problems. Like a noise in the clutch (bearing?) and the one that makes me nervous is the loud whinning noise I get when I start the engine after it sits a while. "I" claim it to be the timing belt and my boyfriend claims its a pulley bearing. Didn't know the pulley had bearings.(?) But, I need car to get to college since I go there full-time. Im trying to find someone who will help me without charging too much or keeping it too long. Im in California and it won't pass emmissions because of a EGR flow malfunction. I just replaced 02 sensor but, know nothing about exaust.
    The only reason I know anything about cars at all is because I am a car person and my ex loved fixing cars. Too bad "HE'S" not around now..... Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Going today to have it looked at. I'd rather have it fixed today but, not sure I'll find someone in such short notice. Oh and I read about your wife's comments on how small the car is. Thats funny!!! I loose this car in the parking lot all the time! LMAO.... Also I have a real bad back and I agree with her the seats suck and I have pillows as well to help with support. Tina
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    stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    Hi Tina -

    Our cars are really different - mine is a 1992 convertible (which they stopped making in 1993). Even though both our engines are 1L 3 cyl, I don't know whether they're actually the same. Mine was made by Suzuki for Geo (marketed by Chevrolet dealers).

    Per the whine - sorry, I do tend to agree with your boyfriend - pulleys DO have bearings - the pulley spins on a fixed shaft - it has to have a bearing. I tend to agree with him, though, because yours whines more after the car has sat for a while. Then, after moving, maybe the impregnated oil in the bearing circulates enough to stop the whine.

    The timing belt on my engine, at least, is rubber (not a chain). Yours should have been replaced around 60,000 miles - if not, you're running the risk of it breaking. Depending on the engine, a broken timing belt can destroy an engine since the valves may actually hit the moving pistons when the belt breaks. My 1 liter 3 cylinder engine is a "clearance" engine, meaning that if the timing belt breaks, there is still clearance between the valves & the pistons - again, I don't know if your 3cyl 1.0L engine is the same as mine, given that it is 8 model years later.

    On my car, the last time, the whine was actually the bearing on the water pump shaft. However, since taking off the water pump wasn't a lot less work than replacing the timing belt, I had it replaced at the same time.

    I know nothing about California emission standards, or, for that matter, emissions coming from my Geo. I do know, however, not to run it in a closed garage when anyone is around!

    When you look for a mechanic, try to look for an ASE Certified shop - that will give you some assurance that the shop meets certain standards. Beyond that, ask friends, co-workers, & fellow students for shop recommendations. People who are satisfied with the service they've received will usually be willing to share the shop name with you.

    Best wishes in school.

    Stan
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    guustflaterguustflater Member Posts: 2
    hi there,

    I am very curious about mounting a hitch under a 1994 pontiac firefly...lol...i know.. but i am only using it for small handyman jobs, roofrack is getting to small, any idea from which car the hitch will fit the best...with or without adjusting & welding ?
    please let me know
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    guustflaterguustflater Member Posts: 2
    Who can help me with the fact that i would like to mount a hitch under my firefly ?
    which make, brand etc etc ....
    guustflater
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    vanillalattevanillalatte Member Posts: 70
    Hi there, I'm new here and researching stuff for my own little jewel. Vanilla Latte. It is a Chevrolet Sprint Convertible Automatic white.... Canada eh! So this answers that question.
    I am going to install a 5 speed manual in it. I found one locally with all the necessary accoutruments such as pedal rack, the shafts, etc. I think and hope that it is a 4:10 gear ratio. It should work quite well with the 13 inch wheels. I do have a question concerning the speedometer. Will it be out of tune? If so, How do I correct it? Any opinion will be greatly valued. Thank you.
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    richb100richb100 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1992 Geo Metro and have a coolant leak coming from the back of the engine block in the area. I had to top off the oil & coolant on a weekly basis for the last few months. No oil or coolant leaked out to the floor until today when the coolant leaked out causing smoke.
    What could the problem be? HELP! :cry:
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    stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    Hi -

    I've never had the problem on my Metro, but the fact that you've had to top off both oil & anti-freeze could mean a blown head gasket. I had that happen several times on a 1978 Datsun (now Nissan) F10.

    Perhaps the rear main bearing also leaks - and the mixed fluids began to fill either the clutch or torque converter housing - depending on whether you're driving a stick or an automatic. The combined fluids then had to reach a high enough level to find a vent or other hole to flow out of onto the floor.

    Again, just a series of guesses - I'm not a mechanic.

    Stan
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    bert3bert3 Member Posts: 1
    the brake switch is just above the brake pedal,
    take the dash apart under the steering wheel
    and its just behind the steering column
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    goguygoguy Member Posts: 2
    GOOD PRICE. THE CYLIDERS SHOULD LAST 400K.
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