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Chevrolet/Geo Metro

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Comments

  • wilezcoyotewilezcoyote Member Posts: 8
    Does the high beam indicator come on when you switch from high to low beam ?1- check the harness at the bottom of the steering column coming from the dimmer switch seperate it and inspect for poor or burnt connections
    2-check the feed coming from your headlamp switch
    3-check for feed coming from the dimmer switch
    4- a faulty park brake switch can cause the headlamps not to work but i don't think this is the problem is your case
  • spurs1spurs1 Member Posts: 2
    Ahhhhhhhhaaaaa.

    Thanks WileyC. Found a burnt connection in a connector. Replaced the connector and now I have lights again.\

    God I love my Geo.

    Spurs1
  • rrivera1rrivera1 Member Posts: 2
    Folks,

    Need help making a decision. After 199K the old girl is going through oil like a drunk at Mardi Gras and I can't figure out where it's going. There's no smoke coming out the exhaust and no leaks under the car. Radiator doesn't have any foam in it. I figure the rings are just plain worn out.

    Wife says I should just turn off the life support and let the car go to into the light. I'm debating on just putting in a new motor but don't have a clue if it would be worth doing. I'm pretty mechanically inept so does anyone have any suggestions or thoughts on this issue? Where could I find a decently priced replacement motor? Am I pretty much stuck with going with a stock replacement or do I have options?

    Richard :confuse:
  • wilezcoyotewilezcoyote Member Posts: 8
    :sick: how often do you change the oil ? a compression test may tell you a few things. check the plugs for deposits.
    sometimes the oil rings will become seezed causing oil to be drawn up into the combustion cambers. Sometimes the air cleaner inlet will be blocked by the addapter boot causing the engine to suck oil out of the bottom end .It does not cost that much to rebuild these engines, you could phone the auto wreakers to see how much for a used engine. if you want a break on the labour to perform the repairs check with your local vocational collage that trains apprentice mechanics sometimes you can get work done at a very good rate
  • rrivera1rrivera1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advise. Given the amount of driving I was doing (about 70 miles a day) I would change the oil about every 2000 - 2500 miles. The car had always been low by the time it was time for an oil change but never like this. Before I parked it I'd gotten to checking the oil level every time I changed the oil.

    I like the suggestion about the vocational school and know that one of our local high schools has such a program but I'm told there's a list of project cars already on their schedule and they won't be accepting any others.

    Someone emailed me and suggested replacing it with a JDM motor but I'm not sure who to buy from.

    Can anyone recommend a source?
  • wilezcoyotewilezcoyote Member Posts: 8
    :confuse: You have ask yourself how long am i going to keep this car,
    what shape is the rest of the car in,is this car worth putting more money into it .The best deal that you will get on a engine would be from a auto-wrecker(complete engine)they usually come with some type of warranty. A rebuilt engine is not going to be complete , it will be either a short block or a long block and you will need to swap all your parts onto the reman engine(this costs money) some auto wreckers will also install the motor for you, or do you or any of your friends know of a good auto mechanic that does work at home the people I know charge @$30.00 per hr ,
  • gbdmangbdman Member Posts: 1
    1993 Geo Metro....replaced engine,thermostat, temp sender and water pump.....car runs in the middle of the temp range on the highway but at the top of the temp range in town. fan comes on but doesn't bring the temp down past 3/4 normal range. used to run mid normal all the time befor the above changes. Why?
  • scully69scully69 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same issue with downshifting from 3 to 2 and 2 to 1. 1994 Pontiac firefly worked fine then One cold day and a very stiff car and problems downshifting! Let me know if anyone knows the fix Please.
  • scully69scully69 Member Posts: 2
    Just changed a burned exhaust valve last night 1994 pontiac firefly 1.0L. reassembly went well accept when i started the engine...started and ran better than it ever has (while I have owned it). But she is leaking oil as bad as the exxon valdez...coming from around the distributor and it looks like the front left corner where the head meets the block. I suspect it may be from the cam shaft bearing caps as the maually says the apply a bit of sealant the the mating surfaces when installing the camshaft. further investigation to come. I am looking for experiences or suggestions for help!!
    thanks :confuse:
  • hfxcamryhfxcamry Member Posts: 2
    A scan of my car revealed faulty o2 sensor ( up front )- The engine light has been on for some time now. When I changed the sensor , a new NGK brand, the light came back on. The scan showed varying resistance. The car has always been good on gas and there is no loss of power... any help
  • dutchie3dutchie3 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm from Holland and I have a Suzuki Swift, which is a Pontiac Firefly in canada. I thought it'd be different to put the Firefly name on the back of the car. Does anyone know where I can find these badges? cheers.
  • hihosliverhihosliver Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 96 3 cylinder firefly and i was wondering how do you know if it has a turbo in it ??
    Also i was wondering what i can put in it to give me some extra horespower .. mabey a air intake??
  • swiftmetroswiftmetro Member Posts: 1
    i need to know if the motor trans & exterior part fom my !989 Suzuki SWift willfit my 1990 Goe Metro :confuse:
  • jflujflu Member Posts: 1
    Engine light on my 96 (73,000 mi)Metro came on after I hit a bump. Diagnostic said OS2 sensor not reading, had one replaced, one cleaned. Light came on after work done - second diagnostic said same thing. After a tuneup the car mileage is still great (30mpg city). Mech who replaced sensor said it could be anything causing this reading. (Faulty circuit.) No one really wants to look, I think. Anyone with similar experience? Hope it is not the Catalytic Con. I love this little car by the way.
  • red92red92 Member Posts: 3
    Those sensors go to the computer, which is getting signals from all of the other sensors on the engine. Over time, small vacuum leaks and electrical shortages and other anomolies can cause the computer to get "confused". You may never find out what causes the light to come on. On most American cars it is caused by the EGR valve. It seems that the oxygen sensor is the default reading for most diagnostic checks, but the EGR valve is usually the culprit. :shades:
  • red92red92 Member Posts: 3
    See post #840-----ignore that silly light. ;)
  • red92red92 Member Posts: 3
    The three-cyl Metro engine has very tiny exhaust valves, which wear out over the years. I have had a 1991 and now drive a 1992 model, and on both I have rebuilt the engine. Having the valves replaced and the cylingers honed will make it a top-notch gas saver and stop that oil use. :D
  • whitetopwhitetop Member Posts: 36
    Red92,

    Do you recommend rebuilding over replacing the engine? If so, what kind of price should I expect to pay for the rebuilding job?

    Thanks for the info.
  • tonyl1tonyl1 Member Posts: 53
    Some help me plz
    My firefly goes on perfectly but somthing sounds wierd in the transmission.when it get a lil high rev it sounds like there is somthing in the transmission making wierd noise like there was somthing shaking in it. The sound comes directly from the shifter unside the car. I checked to see is somthing was stuck but everything seemed nice. please help me out.
  • sillyrollersillyroller Member Posts: 6
    I have a friend that owns three geo metros and he said he was having some clunking problems with one of his trans axles and so he changed out the old oil with a synthetic gear oil called Royal Purple and he said no more noises and the car shifts much smoother and now runs at a little cooler operating temp.Royal purple goes for about $10.95 a quart
  • sillyrollersillyroller Member Posts: 6
    i just bought a 1990 geo metro lsi That has a problem i runs great from the top of the gas peddle to the middle then it hits a dead spot and it bogs down like its out of fuel or somthing but then you press the gas a little past that point then it seems to run better andstarts gaing speed again i have done a complete tune up plugs,wires,cap ,rotor,fuel filter,and a new o2 sensore so if anyone can think of anything please let me know Thanks
  • randydriverrandydriver Member Posts: 262
    Bought an Aveo and no longer have my 1999 Chevrolet Metro... wish I would have kept it now. It was black and garage kept. My Metro was a 3-cyl. with a 5-speed and also had air and a nice cd player....when I said good by to the car it had nearly 40,000 miles on it. I was getting about 36-39 around town and my best was 49.2 on a day trip to the backwoods of Oklahoma.
  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    I have a 1998 Chevy Metro, 3cyl, 1 liter engine with 5 speed manual transmission. Can someone tell me where the Fuel Filter is located? I purchased the car a little over a year ago, and like to change out Fuel Filters annually, but so far have been unable to figure out where it's at. Thanks.
  • sillyrollersillyroller Member Posts: 6
    I have been told by a friend who has three geos and he told me that the geo prizm is very close to the toyota corolla not the metro hope this helps
  • sillyrollersillyroller Member Posts: 6
    i have a 1990 geo metro and the fuel filter on mine is underneith the car up above the frame next to the gas tank
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Member Posts: 40
    yup, fuel filter is pressurized, underneath, rear quarter- be careful unscrewing the nuts, they break off easily...
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Member Posts: 40
    clogged / plugged fuel filter- located underneath, rear quarter panel- pressurized system..
  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    Thanks. A mechanic told me that the fuel filter was located inside the Gas Tank. I was hoping someone that had a manual could verify as I find it hard to believe. If that's the case, how the heck would you ever replace it?
  • buzzqrdbuzzqrd Member Posts: 2
    hello, i am trying to restore my 91 metro convertible also. Im not at all mechanical and Im trying to find a parts book to make ordering replacement parts easier. I put a new top on this past Saturday but didnt relize the new top didnt come with new weather striping. The car runs and operates great so Im starting with the body and inside things like dash, door panels and carpet. Do you know where I can get a parts book and do you have any favorite sources for Geo parts? Please feel free to e-mail at Buzzqrd@yahoo.com Thanks Vern
  • surplusserversurplusserver Member Posts: 1
    I have owned a '89 Geo Metro LSI since 1990. It's been the most reliable car I have ever owned, and the easiest to maintain. About a year ago, I started having problems with the car stumbling on acceleration and certain throttle settings. This problem was annoying. But, the car remained drivable. Having a moderate amount of experience with cars, I looked to the same things which you have mentioned changing. My "computer" indicated the O2 sensor was bad, so I also replaced it, as you have done. None of these things fixed the problem. The symptoms are, quite frankly, those of a vacuum leak. But, I triple checked all of the hoses, even spraying carburetor cleaner on all of the junctions with the engine running at idle. This is a good way to find a vacuum leak, as the engine speed will increase of it sucks the fluid into the intake. In our litigious society, I am not recommending anyone do this, as carburetor cleaner is highly flammable! Anyway, I didn't find a leak and the problem was still there.

    When I bought all of the goodies you mentioned to repair/replace, I also bought a new PCV valve for a few cents. I hadn't bothered to replace it, because my experience with V8s told me that, despite claims that defective PCV valves were the root of all evil, I have never replaced one to avail. To my credit, I had tried to replace it, but the securing screws wouldn't budge, and out of fear of rounding them out, I abandoned the job. One night a few weeks ago, I got a wild hair to try a new Craftsman Impact Screw Extractor I had just bought for another job, the type you strike with a hammer, on these tenacious screws. It worked perfectly. I'd highly recommend on of these goodies as an addition to any tool chest! They work great! Anyway, I replace the PCV Valve, and my son and I took the car for a spin. To my utter amazement, the car accelerated smoothly and ran like a top. I was shocked! I had put up with the stumbling acceleration and sluggish performance for over a year, all the time with the remedial part kicking around the my boot!

    I'd suggest you try this with your problem. Let us know if it works for you, too.
  • nanettenanette Member Posts: 2
    Hi everyone, newbie alert! ^_^

    ToyotaTed,

    I did a search and your name was one that came up...
    may I ask you please what is entailed with changing out the water pump on our 96 Metro, please? I bought one from Pep Boys, it has the o-ring/ gasket in the box.
    Are there any tips you wouldn't mind sharing, or anything you could spell out for me, please?

    Hubby is busy with a two-unit outage at San Onofre, so when he is home, which is rare, he's alseep. He needs this car for commuting, so we have a very short window of turn around time to get this project under way & wrapped up.

    I'd really appreciate any help or advice from anyone reading this.
    Thank you for letting me join - this seems like a wonderful forum, here!
    Blessings,
    Nanette
    <><
  • heatherkheatherk Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 metro that had a valve job and pistons changed. It is now locking the doors by itself and it does not have power locks. The driver side front running light is dim and the car will run great but not re-start for about 30 min. until it cools down after being shut off. It has been in the shop for 5 months and it has many pros stumped. I suggested a priest. Anyone else run into similar problems? If so, HELP!!!
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Member Posts: 40
    1995 Geo, 4cyl, automatic with ac- the engine when cold rev's up high to the point if put into gear willgo 25mph. sometimes the egine idle speeds revs up and down quickly, all by itself. I have change to computer, the throttle body sensor, and cleaned the carb, and linkages, and such, still no help- after the engine is hot, it is 'almost' OK...
    any ideas???
  • buzzqrdbuzzqrd Member Posts: 2
    Any one have sources for new GEO PARTS? Also I need a parts Book for a 91 Geo Metro Convertible
  • heatherkheatherk Member Posts: 3
    Check out www.abebooks.com. I have used this book source for about 5 years and have had great luck. As to new parts, I can't say.
  • whitetopwhitetop Member Posts: 36
    Every summer I do a minor tune-up on my '93 Metro convertible. Along with new plugs I always replace the PCV valve, air filter, and set the timing. I have also replaced the distributor cap and spark plug wires a couple of times, too. It may seem excessive to some people, but it always makes a big difference. Almost all my driving is in town - short trips. I agree that those PCV screws are difficult to get out, even after only a year. The first time was really scary. After reading what you wrote I realized I have never replaced the O2 sensor. The car has 115K miles - probably on the first sensor. The computer has never indicated a problem, but I have always had a roughness in the engine at idle. I guess I will try that next. Take care and thanks for the advice about the screwdriver.
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Member Posts: 40
    I have a 97 Geo, 95 Geo, and a 97 Suzuki Swift, all have needed new O2 sensors- about $300.oo EACH. The junkyard hasa gold mine....
  • sillyrollersillyroller Member Posts: 6
    Thanks very much for your report about your PCV valve,,cause when i pulled my hose that goes to the PCV valve it was cloged with brown oily sludge as was my PCV valve and had the same problem with the screws.i need to get the screws out still but know my PCV valve is not working i will let you know what happens with it.,,I also was able to read my computer and it says my map sensor is out but as if it works off of vaccume as well so ill try replaceing the PCV valve first and see if it helps but i have ordered a map sensor as well i was able to find a used one for $40.00 off ebay but a new one at schucks costs upward of $250.00 anyway thanks for your help
  • gmman2gmman2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 geo metro lsi. The ignition coil fuse keeps blowing. The car will idle but when you put it in gear the fuse blows. I replaced the coil and it did fine for about two weeks. Then the fuse started blowing again. Now when you turn the key switch the fuse blows. The car won't start now. HELP!!
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Member Posts: 40
    see post 858, I have a simalr problem with the 95 geo 2 dr LSi- the engine revs up when the engine is cold and shifted into any gear- so high that it is hard to stop the car from going away ... I have changed the computer, the idle sensor, and a number of other things- cleaned linkages,
    anyone have any ideas or thoughts?
    p10leadman@yahoo.com :cry:
  • stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    I googled "geo metro o2 sensor new" and found www.oxygensensors.com. The prices were under $20.00.

    I checked my own '92 Metro LSI - they have them for mine - hopefully they have them for you.

    Best,

    Stan
    Amarillo
  • stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    I've had my '92 Metro LSI since January 1993, when it had 25 miles on the odometer. It now has 85,000+. It has always had a rough idle when the tach showed less than 1,000 rpm.

    My take is that this is perfectly normal. After all, it's a 3 cylinder engine, running as a 4 stroke engine. I suspect that is the "cause" of the rough idle.

    Just figure it this way - in addition to a great car, you also have a back, thigh, & rear end vibrator!

    Knock on wood, in the 85,000+ miles I've put on the car, I've never had any engine trouble (except when the speed sensor went out in the speedometer - but that wasn't the engine itself). I just drove from Amarillo to Dallas & back - trip average around 36 mpg - the entire trip back with the top down. The engine still goes 3,000 between oil changes without having to add any extra oil.

    I find the engine runs better when I rev to 6300 in 1st, 5700 in 2nd, & 5500 in 3rd. I typically don't shift into 5th until 65 mph (obviously, I have the 5 speed manual - not the automatic!). Even so, around town I get 32 - 33 mpg consistently (and have great fun doing so).

    Best,

    Stan
    Amarillo
  • sillyrollersillyroller Member Posts: 6
    i have a 1990 geo metro and needed a new o2 sensor and got a new bosh for $18.99 from schucks and ebay has them about the same price
  • stan_top_downstan_top_down Member Posts: 52
    My check engine light came on - it shows a faulty vehicle speed sensor. This happened once before, and I had to replace the speedometer (the speed sensor is inside it). I've just googled, and can't find a speedometer for the car.

    Has anyone successfully opened a speedometer & fixed the speed sensor inside? If so, please send instructions.

    Does anyone know of a source for speedometers for the 1992 LSI (convertible) - preferably new ones or new after-market?

    Thanks in advance for help - I'll keep the list posted for any driving or milage problems I experience if I can't find a speed sensor replacement. At this point (about 100 miles after the light came on) there is no noticable change in the car's performance.

    Stan
    Amarillo, TX
  • weisgarberweisgarber Member Posts: 1
    How difficult would it be to convert a Metro to a 3 cylinder Komatsu or Kubota turbo diesel engine? I think this was done in California in 1999 to check mileage and the converted vehicle got about 99 mpg at 45 mph. What about the transmission? Would the Geo trans bolt up to the diesel engine? Any help would be appreciated.
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Member Posts: 40
    I originally asked for thoughts (help) solving a problem with my 1995 Geo, 2 dr, 4cyl, automatic- the idle is ok in park, cold engine, put it in ANY gear, and the RPM's skyrocket to the point the foot brake can just about hold it back ! After the engine has run for a half hour (not just "warmed up") the problem generally goes away. Sometimes the idling revs up and down all by itself, even in or out of gear.... I have tried to solve it by :
    1) tune up
    2) new computer
    3) cleaned carb and linkages
    4) fuel filter
    5) PCV replaced
    Ok, mechanics...what's up with my poor little car?
    OBTW it is almost new, has less than 120,000 miles on it...
    thanks-
    P10 :sick:
  • whitetopwhitetop Member Posts: 36
    I don't know about new or after-market, but there have been a few of them on e-bay during the past few months. I've started buying some replacement parts before I need them. Parts for GEO metros are probably going to become difficult to find in the future. There are already a lot of convertible parts no longer available.

    Are you still planning a trip to Washington, D.C? Let me know if you're coming past Joplin.

    If you want to see a picture of Fluffy check out my place on CarSpace.

    Whitetop
  • brokengeobrokengeo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 geo metro convertible it has 87,000 miles and started smoking thought it was pcv but wasn't bad head not that guy working on car says needs new engine or rebuilt [I trust him he is a friend] I cant find a engine looks like it will cost about800. to rebuild part by part cant find a total rebuild kit. Anyone have ideas or know how to find a kit? Thank you much
    Lisa
    :cry:
  • dowensdowens Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know if a rear wiper and washer can be retrofitted to a metro hatchback?. :)
  • newgeoownernewgeoowner Member Posts: 1
    Ok heres the deal I bought a 95 geo metro for 400 with over $3000 worth of work done on it in the last 3 years and she gave me all the documents. Its a 4cyl 1.3 liter engine ,manual, also it is not a hatchback . I was wonder if you guy had any tips / suggestions to increase the Horse power enough to make it do more then 65 to 70 mph. Also what could I replace the engine with?
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