Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
If you can have a knowledgeable, trusted mechanic inspect the timing belt, he/she could give you an estimate as to how long it will last. From what I've read on the internet, later model Hyundais timing belts have lasted around 80-90K. Whether you want to chance that is up to you.
As for the warranty holes, look at it this way: How many other companies would have replaced the auto tranny for the guy in message #1117? The warranty isn't perfect but it covers big ticket items that few were willing to cover until just recently. You have to expect to pay for maintenance on your car. Don't get maintenance confused with warranty.
Probably too late for this now, but this is EXACTLY what I was talking about!
http://www.thestar.com/NASApp/cs/ContentServer?pagename=thestar/L- ayout/Article_Type1&c=Article&cid=1078399803086&call_- pageid=968867497088&col=969048871196
fastdriver
Any advice would be much appreciated (I'm a poor grad student so a car that is gonna last for 4-5years without major work is vital right now)
Thanks!
Greg
I own a 2001 with now 90k miles and ZERO problems and an average 41.5MPG since new. All of thos with AC and AT.
The Accent comes with a great warranty but delivers worse mileage and after the warranty expires I trust Toyota a little bit more.
I suggest you test drive both and decide after that and comparing your financing options.
Good luck with whatever car you end up with.
Something Pulgo left out about the Accent :
1) Warranty
5 yrs - 60K Everything
10 yrs - 100K Powertrain
2) Free towing for 5 years
Kinda takes the sting out of "I dont know about the reliability". I've owned a Elantra GT hatch since 01 and would buy an Accent in a heartbeat. Yes, on a hatchback a rear wiper is a BIG plus. One wipe gets the rain/snow off and clears the window. Hyundais generally dont get the high mileage of other makes so you get your money back up front with value.
In my personal case, I will keep the Echo for at least 300k miles and I do not believe an Accent will survive this kind of mileage for that long, without replacing engine and or transmission.
Just my personal opinion.
As for the rear wiper, get the GS model!! You won't be sorry. I bought the base L hatchback back in 2000 and was constantly annoyed by not being able to see out the back window when it was damp, raining or foggy. The rear defroster works rather slowly on this car, so a rear wiper would have come in real handy. You will also enjoy the armrest, cloth on the door panel, clock, and tachometer of the GS model (can't remember if the hatchback is now called GL, but either way, I'm talking about the midline model). Good luck on your buying process and let us know what you get.
P.S. Hyundai did very well overall, with two other vehicles in the top three for their categories and a great overall score that was actually ahead of nameplates like Toyota and Infiniti:
http://www.jdpower.com/news/releases/pressrelease.asp?ID=2004037
The accent, especially in the 3-door GT package, looks sharp and has excellent amenities.
Best Wishes....
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/boomer5352000/album?.dir=/551a&a- mp;.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos- .yahoo.com/ph//my_photos
It also seems from the sensor stuff, that doing the 30K will not influence the idle sensor or the throttle sensor, as these are not part of the service?
The problem with doing things yourself is having proof it was done. You can also use a licensed mechanic to do the work and have him sign your maten book.
Thanks!
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/boomer5352000/album?.dir=/551a&a- mp;.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos- .yahoo.com/ph//my_photos
1. is there any way to tell by visual inspection how well a used car has been treated in its past life? or at least any visual cues?
2. i was considering 2000 and up years, and was wondering if there are any issues i should be aware of for this time period?
3. any advice for first time car owner would be greatly apperciated-especially in the negotiations part of it.
i guess i am just petrified of car dealers as both my mom and sister have had bad luck with them. my sis especially. i think thats one of the appeals of a used car-i feel there isn't a whole lot of room to muck about in, in the negotiations part of the deal. it either is or isn't.
by the way i want an automatic with a/c. power stuff would be nice but beggars can't be choosers. umm i plan on driving it from florida to virginia 4 times this coming school year. and to ohio once (for thanksgiving break). after that it will probably be an almost exclusively local car.thats one of the other things against buying new- whats a break in period and wouldn't that
(the long distance trips) hurt a new car? also i am probably going to go to australia for vet school and having a brand new car sit in a garage while i make payments on it for those years would seriously suck. (thought just struck) unless i could get my sis to take over the car when i leave
but thats all at least 2 years from now, the more i think about it the more i wouldn't mind driving it into the ground. but again i am still leaning on the side of used because i can always get a new one later if i find out how great it is.
okay enough! comments appreciated, hoping to be seriously shopping in a few weeks ( by the way i did LOTS of research on the different cars and this is the last bit to clean up). i am just not a spur of the moment kind of girl when it comes to such big $$$ exchanges. thanks in advance
LBC
It is difficult to tell whether a car was cared for mechanically. A used car can look clean as a whistle and still be a clunker. But with a used car under 30k, there really shouldn't be anything majorly wrong unless it's been wrecked. You should do a carfax report to make sure. As far as negotiations and price goes, you can most surely negotiate under what they are asking. I would look up what a fair price is for the car you are looking at and offer that price. If the dealer balks, say thanks but your price is way too high and walk out. If they want your business, they will run after you and either accept your offer or start negotiating. Stick to the price you know is fair for the car and bring copies of the car's value from edmunds.com and kelleybluebook.com to show you know how much the car should cost. Once they see you are armed with knowledge, they will sell you the car for a fair price. Don't let them try to make you feel bad by saying they aren't making any money on the deal. They won't sell the car unless they make money off it. I won't lie to you and say buying a car is a happy experience. You will more then likely leave the dealer exhausted with a headache. But in the end, when you know you paid a fair price, you will be happy you stuck to your guns. Good luck and let us know what happens!
I need some opinion on buying a used 02 Accent L hatchback. As you guys know, this is a vary basic car: manual tranny, AC, 53000 miles, tire looks half new. The dealer is firm at price $2650. The car looks good. I am buying this car as a side car and at the same time hoping to learn driving a manual car. I have not tested drive it yet because I don't know how to drive a manual car.
Do you guys think this is a fair price? The dealer doesn't have any maintanence documents of this car(he got it from auction). If for example, the clutch went south before 60K miles, without any service history records, will the dealer cover the clutch under warranty?
Thanks!
-Q
unfortunely my dad just passed away the end of last month. which means i have inherited a nice truck that i will try to keep as long as possible. this also kind of comforts me as i heard that to tow anything in the accent was to void its warrenty,since i am getting an apartment this september for school and am driving 5 states away (fl to VA), i think everything has worked out for the best.
thank you all
LBC
One side note... the dealer says if the check engine light is on there is no cost as under warranty, however (in my case) if the check engine light is off (even if it had been on) and there is nothing wrong, you get the $85.00 bill. Luckily they found something wrong,
I told them about the idle problem and a knocking sound when the radiator fan starts. They didn't mention anything about charging me if they don't find anything. If they did, I definitely wouldn't pay and call Hyundai. Its like take the 5 year/60K mile warranty at your own risk...