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if you have all the paper work for the car, what's been done at each annual service, that would help you out no end.
Check your fan belt, if it's looking worn and perished it could well need replacing, the chances are the timing belt will need doing too if so, as the belts tend to wear out together. It's a good idea to change them every four years.
Somtimes people forget about the engine coolant, should be changed every two years for best cooling efficency. if it looks a horrible shade of black rather than sky blue, then you could drain, flush and refill the cooling system with fresh coolent and water.
just drain a drop off from the radiator plug into a plastic cup if u want a look.
another thing that somtimes gets forgotten is the gear oil, should be done every two years if possible, can only help you out with the gear oil if it's a manual though, never changed auto transaxle fluid before...
Engine oil....if that's not been changed for 10,000 miles or a year then it'll need doin, along with the filter.
All this stuff should be in your owners manual, when to change what etc.
anyhow, hope that's some help...
I am a mechanic in the states. I will tell you what your problem is. The mechanics that you are taking it too can't be very sharp, as this is a basic problem that you are having. It is what is called an Idle Air Control Valve. It has a few other names like throttle bypass valve..etc. But what happens is that when you come to a stop light, this valve is supposed to regulate your idle. When you run down the road with the throttle open, it is 100% open--so when you let your foot off the gas the engine won't die. It then regulates the idle of the motor with the valve open at 45% say at a stoplight. What happens when these things go bad, is that the pintle that controls air flow through the valve gets gummed up and sticks. So when you go to stop at a stoplight, it hangs wide open like it should going down the road-----not at a stoplight. The motor then gets to much air and stalls out. The valve then goes back to it starting position when motor is started. I would not take your car back to the mechanic that told you it was the fuel pump. If they were doing any diagnostics at all, they would have simply looked at the fuel pressure at various times and over multiple starts to see if that was the culprit. Obviously not, since it didn't fix the problem. The Idle Air Control Valve is usually located on the intake manifold behind the throttle body. Because this valve simply controls the amount of air that goes around the throttle plate which regulates your idle. This is an easy fix, with most IACV's(for short), costing somewhere between 30-65$ US, and a half hour labor to put on. Sorry this post is so long, just wanted to explain it to you fully. I hope that this helps and I am 99% sure this is the problem. We have lots of problems with them in cars over here. Because our smog systems throw carbon through them and that is what gunks them up, or the IAC motor goes bad. You get a new motor on the new valve you would purchase. Please post again and tell me if this was it. I am sure it is. Oh, if the motor ever doesn't start, like it keeps on cranking over with no running. Depress the gas pedal 1/2 way down and hold it there and crank the motor over, it will start. But you really need to get a new valve. Hope this helps Kelli.
Mike
Any and all help is appreciated.
http://tinyurl.com/9br9q
But I've been hearing a squeaking in mornings for a while now, maybe 2,000-3,000 miles, it's been happening. Usually it happens only early in the mornings, but this morning the squeaking lasted all the way to work, a 25 mile drive. The squeaking was a lot less by the time I got to work than it was when I first started it, but regardless it lasted all the way. Can anyone tell me if this is an indication of my timing belt wearing out more or what? Or is this unrelated to the timing belt?
Jaime
Jaime
the timing belt or timing chain (metal or rubber) depends on the model of vehicule and it is inside the cover of the front of the engine, however the engine is in transversal position the front of the engine is faced to the right front wheel.
Jaime
I have a 2001 Accent GL that came with a spoiler (among other body options) directly from a dealer in Maryland.
Recently I noticed that the center brake lamp was burned out. It is mounted between the spoiler and the trunk lid.
I can't for the life of me figure out how to change the bulb. The bezel has no screws. I thought that if I removed the spoiler, I might get access to the bulb. The spoiler is mounted on the trunk lid via three studs that are accessed from the underside of the trunk lid. I removed the nuts but the spoiler would still not come loose. I believe that the spoiler might be glued?? and I'm afraid to pull up too hard since it could break off!
Can anybody help?
Thanks,
Tim...
Give the oil 10 min or so to drain back into the oil sump after the engine's turned off before a reading is taken though.
I know someone who did this on a new-ish Porsche once, no damage was caused luckily, but clouds of blue smoke were emmited from the exhaust as the engine burnt off the excess oil.
Thanks for the reply...
It is really strange. There are no screws anywhere around the spoiler or bezel itself. The spoiler appears to be mounted directly to the trunk lid via three studs coming out of the bottom of the spoiler. Nuts are then placed on the studs from underneath the trunk lid, to apparently hold the spoiler on. It appears that if I could get the spoiler off, it would be academic. But I've removed all three nuts and the spoiler is still held on the trunk, securely. I've tried using a flat-bladed screw driver underneath the spoiler (in the hopes of prying it off), but no deal. Obviously, I don't want to scratch the paint.
I've also tried prying the bezel itself off, thinking it would "just pop off". But before I busted or cracked the bezel, I figured I'd see if anyone else had this experience. I called several Hyundai dealers and one told me that 2001 Accents don't come with spoilers so it must be an after-market piece, so he can't help. Not sure if I believe this. Another said he just wasn't familiar enough with it to help. So here I am...
Basicly all im tryin to say is to be carfull not to put too much oil in your engine, otherwise damage may be caused. In my owners manual it does say to let the engine warm up to normal operating temperature before taking a reading.
You sound very knowledgeable and thorough in your assesment. I hope you can help me with my questions.
I have a '98 Hyundai Accent hatchback with 98,000 miles on it. It has been a very reliable car and most recently I have been taking care of some long overdue maintenance issues.
I just had the cooling fan motor assembly replaced ($190 parts and $90 labor) and three belts replaced ($30 parts and $60 labor).
The mechanic tells me (and rightly so) that I need to replace the timing belt and get a tune up. How much do you think this should cost?
I just want to make sure that I am not being ripped.
texryj
The cost of the job depends greatly on what the garage charges for labour, for me it was £25 an hour, so i had the job done for less than £100.
But if i'd have taken it to a Hyundai dealer the cost of the job could have been over £200 with the amout they charge for labour.
Hope that's of some use...
The only reason I bought this car was to save on gas, I also own a 96 Mustang GT with a few goodies so I need this to get good gas mileage, at 25 MPG I'm not even making close to the city driving.
Also there was a few things I thought were shady and overall am not very pleased with the car. The power door locks are absurd, that is not power door locks when you have to press one of the locks down manually and it automatically locks the other 2 doors (I have the 3 door GT package). The security system comes with a remote so I figured that would control the locks also since I have power door locks, but I was wrong about that also. Never heard of a car other than this one that when you have power door locks and a remote keyless entry, the remote doesnt control the locks. With that being said if the gas mileage does not increase I plan to get rid of it and would like to before its to late. Does Hyundai have any return policy, like a 30 day or something like that? Or any return policy even if it means I can not get a full refund? Thanks in advance for all your help guys.
As to the "power locks" , well, they ARE power ! Hyundai did not say they are "power remote" entry locks. Didn't you read the specs or test drive the thing before you signed on the dotted line ? I didn't know that the Accent offered a factory OEM security system. Was that a dealer add-on ? There are kits on the market that will convert your locks to remote at a pretty low cost. Google -up some sites and you'll see all kinds of them.
Sounds like you have a bad case of "buyers remorse" at this point. No there is NO 30 day return for something like this and would not come under the lemon law either. NO full refund !! Get real ! As to getting rid of the car @ this point just becaus of your disappointment with the locks and low mpg consider the licking you'll take on the depreciation if you bail @ this point. Sounds like you rushed into this thing without a lot of research. Good luck anyway.
believer
Maybe its because I'm coming from a 9 almost 10 year old mustang that has more luxuries than this car, nor have I ever heard of a car that has power locks setup like that. I test drove a GLS, the GT one that I bought was not ready yet and they said it would be basically the same except for the CD player, and power stuff, which in every other car I have seen the power door locks have a switch on the door panel. Reading the specs did not good (which I did) becaues power door locks u would assume since 99% of the cars with power door locks have the switch on the door panel that it would come with it. Not sure if it is a factory OEM security system or not they just said at the dealership that they put it on every single car they sell, so it was really an option u basically had to get it. You would think that its pretty easy to convert it, its not. My Mustang is a GTS which means it came without power windows/ door locks and I just did the conversion, its a major PITA, maybe it would be easier on the accent but judging from the mustang it is no simple task.
I never said anything about full refund, I'm just wondering how much I would lose if I did try to trade it back in, I mean if its gonna be over 2K then its not worth it but if I'm only gonna lose around 1K or so it might be worth it, well that is assuming the gas mileage does not get better, if it does then I really dont have that much of an issue, its just I bought this car for a daily driver to get good gas mileage then the first tank I get 25 MPG, which is why I am not very happy when the car isnt even serving the sole purpose I bought it for. I think it was a bit rushed with gas prices being what they are and the mustang not getting the greatest fuel economy, just checking out what my options are and seeing what exactly the deal with the car is and trying to find out if its worth taking the hit and losing some money to get another car. Thanks for the feedback though I'm not as disappointed anymore now that I have one person saying that the gas mileage will go up, getting 35-40 mpg in an auto with air on is awesome, I have a 5 speed manual and rarely run my air driving mostly highway at around the same speeds as you, so if I get even 33 MPG highway I will be happy.
Unless you put some bux down on the car you most likely will take at least a $2K hit and that is assuming you got a good deal in the first place. You may actually owe more than the car is worth @ wholesale. Check KBB for the trade-in price. That is about the best a dealer will go for a 2005.
Actually, the conversion kit to install remote entry is pretty easy. It is all a modification to the wiring. My neighbor installed one he got from JC Whitney & it took about an hour and cost around $80.00.
Hang in there.
By the way I just sold my 2004 Mustang GT. Hated the thing. Had 9K on it and I took a real beating but was sooooooo glad to dump it.
regards Believer
But a few months later, after driving that isn't the best but isn't insane either, and timely oil changes (I believe this is quite important), these days, I never get below 30 mpg. I've gotten as high as 37.5 mpg in the Adirondacks on mountain roads, so don't worry, your mileage will get better. I rarely get below 35 mpg these days on long distance trips and average 32-33 mpg on my daily commute which is 80% highway.
I took the car to the mechanic today and got the timing belt, water pump, drive belts, and engine thermostat gauge replaced. With labor, this is costing me $550 or the equivalent of 275 pound sterling. My mechanic charges about $75 per hour for labor I think. Along with a 6% Pennsylvania sales tax, and 1% Philadelphia sales tax, my total is $590.
But I knew this is a chance I was taking when I didn't get the repairs done at 60,000 miles. My car just crossed 65,000 miles this past weekend. If you have the financial means, then get the timing belt and water pump replaced at 60,000 miles on the dot. If not, then save money and do it as quickly as possible. Luckily thanks to my AAA Plus membership, the towing was free, otherwise that would have cost me another $225 at least.
Sounds a little like a turbo, but i'm pretty sure my 1.3 petrol accent isn't turbo charged lol
The lubes and fluids have been changed at all the specified intervals. Belts were changed about 15,000 miles ago.
Only things I can think of are worn bearings in either the water pump or alternator, or a dodgey capacitor in the alterantor, as they can somtimes be the cause of strange noises when they play up.
But I dont wanna spend hours playin round with my bearings if it's somthing much simpler and easier to fix that i'm over looking....any ideas anyone?
Just wondered if anyone else has had and resolved any similar whistles....?
Sorry I can't provide a resolution to the problem
went to the inspection, and it turned out that it smokes,
looks like a light white smoke? How can i fix the problem?
(Fuel filter? Oil change? Sparkplug?)
Thanks
Blue smoke: Engine burning oil
White smoke: Water is getting into cylinders...possible bad head or head gasket.
can i replace this manually or better go to repair?
How much would it cost probably to change it?
Thanks.
Thanks
Having said that I strongly advise you have a pro mechanic repair your car the right way. The right repair may cost $1000 or more.
I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. Good luck.
believer
so probably the best thing i can do to bring it to a repair and find out whats the problem, but if its gonna cost 1000$ or more i dont know whether it is worth to do it, i bought the car for 1700$ and it has 78kmiles 5 years old.
I realized that the white smoke comes out after idling the car for a while and then pushing the gas strong, (the smoke comes just at the beginning, so it stops after a second), and as longer I idling or hot the engine is as much smoke comes out, it looks like so.
Maybe I can try that BARS thing, and pass the inspection, and after that take it to repair.
Thanks for any comments.
A valve job would be vastly cheaper than a new head or a cracked block. The guy you bought it from HAD to know about this ! I don't think you can do a whole lot about it at this point as all private sales are "as is" unless you can prove fraud on the seller's part. Good luck to you and let us know how it all works out.
believer
Put in bendix pads the first time because the store had no others at the time. However, since the brakes behaved better than any other car I owned I stuck with it.
Use dealer parts if you can. With this car more than any other I have gotten the wrong part, ie doesn't fit etc.
But no, the other whistling noise is defiantly coming from the engine area, there was a mention of it being down to a leak in the exhaust system, but i'd have thought it'd be whistling all the time if it was that, rather than only when I put my foot down on the gas. As said before, the whistling stops as soon as I remove my foot from the gas.
I've noticed no decline in fuel efficiency or engine performance since noticing this noise, so it cant be too serious...I hope...
But if it's still spewing out clouds miles down the road, then yes, the chances are there's something wrong. If It's the head gasket, then it'll need seeing to ASAP, as it'll damage your engine if left to its own devices.....
We'll see. Im crossing my fingers as well.
Putting fully synthetic oil in may reduce the smoking, but it won't fix a piston ring if it's worn.