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Comments
My engine coolant temperature light (blue) sometimes stays on for long periods and then disappears then reapears all during the same driving period. Sometimes it will blink then go solid. No ryme or reason when it will go on or off.
My engine oil pressure light will beep and flash six times at any given time. I could be idle, taking a left turn or just cruising.
My last issue is that my wind shield washer fluid will not squirt when I pull the lever. I replaced the fuse. It worked for one day and then nothing.
All these problems have been happening the last 6 days.
I bought my 2002 2.0L GLS standard trans new. It has 51,500 mi. Please help.
I have an '06 Jetta, and I have driven an '06 New Beetle, and i want to know why is it that the acceleration of the New Beetle is so much faster then my Jetta?
They both have the same 5cyl engine, and the New Beetle weighs less then 200lbs less then my car, yet it makes my car feel sluggish compared to how fast it feels to drive the New Beetle.
If anyone has answers, it would be very much appreciated. thanks.
Technically, it is almost impossible to design an oil LEVEL indicator that is more accurate than the dipstick. The oil-level constantly changes while the engine is running and besides... it is the PRESSURE that is important.
The oil LEVEL can only be accurately checked with engine turned off and allowed to sit for several minutes so it can drain back into the pan. The DIPSTICK is for checking the oil LEVEL.
Do you do all your maintenance based on the owners-manual? I have the factory shop manual and over 30 years experinece with engines. The owners-manuals are not very technical and are intended for quick-refernce. They are also often INCORRECT. Are you aware that the oil-reccomendations for many VWs has changed since your manual was printed?
I think I can help with one of your problems, but it sounds like you've got a pissy car (no offense). I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8T and my coolant light used to come on sometimes. After taking it to the dealership I was told to simply add more collant. The light hasn't come on since. Go out and buy some pre-mixed collant (Like Prestone 50/50 and fill your collant level a bit (MAKE SURE YOUR ENGINE IS COLD WHEN YOU DO THIS!).
Sorry, but no advice for your other probs!
--Daniel
If you just need to top off the cooling system... it is acceptable to use distilled water. (use no more than a cup or so) If you need to add more than that, you have a leak and should be adding G12 antifreeze. (after fixing the leak)
Troubleshooting ANY problem with a mechanical apparatus (such as an automobile) is a sequence of logical steps that narrow the problem down. There is no magic in the process.... but having knowledge about the system being troubleshot coupled with logical troublshooting skills is helpful.
Any bonehead can guess what the problem is and charge you as they replace components. It is an unfortunate fact that some folks that "fix cars" for a living are more interested in selling parts than actually spending time troubleshooting a problem. (They are paid based on the number of vehicles they run thru their bay instead of the number of satisfied customers.)
What is more scary (to me) is that many of the younger "car fixers" have no clue what to do if the onboard computer does not show a failing sensor. (such as in your case)
My suggestion to you is to find somone that KNOWS how to troubleshoot and utilize the computer diagnostics. The problem you are having is NOT a diffucult one to diagnose and isolate.
The MOST COMMON problem is that the level in the resivour is just a bit low... the light will indicate a problem until the engine warms up. At that point, the antifreeze expands enough to satisfy the level sensor and then the light goes out.
It is OK to a up to 1/2 cup of DISTILLED water to replenisth a low resivour. If you have to add any more than that, you have a leak and more attention is needed.
REMINDER... if you have to add antifreeze, use ONLY G12 antifreeze in a VW
in general i'd recommend you follow VW recommendation about when to replace spark plugs and wires.
The 1.8T audi engine has COP (Coil On Plug) There are 4 coils (one mounted to each sparkplug.) The COP design ELIMINATES the sparkplug wires.
You do not mention what year your car is but the 1.8T has a history of the ignitor coils going bad. VW "recalled" 1000s of them to replace the coils.
There's the preamble...
A couple months ago, the check-engine light came on. The dealership didn't know what to do with it (since it wasn't a VW dealer). The VW dealership I went to charged $115 to diagnose (apparently, NOT covered under my optional 3-year warranty... go figure), and informed me the secondary air-pump had a crack in it.
The guy was none-too-clear about the how or why this was a problem except that "you'll have little or no power until you get it replaced. $690".
I decided to hold off, since I'm not made of money.
My questions are:
How serious is this?
How serious is this likely to get?
Can these parts be gotten from a salvage yard? And if so, is it worth it to do so?
Can the part be installed by a person with little-to-no engine experience (namely, me)?
Can the original part be repaired or jury-rigged in any way?
I think that covers most of my questions.
Thanks for reading!
GreenKnight
Given that you have a 2001 and that model year is KNOWN to have bad MAF (Mass AirFlow) sensor. I would suggest that was considerd.
The MAF was such a problem during 2001, there was a factory extended warantee on the MAF.
(I realize that your milage is beyond that now)
To more specifically answer your question: YES, the "secondary air pump" may be a good item to source from a scrapyard since it usually does not fail and they may available for cheep.
Also. World Impex has your "secondary air pump" for under $300.
If you cannot replace it yourself, some shops will install a part for you. Of course, they will not waranty anything...but that is what you get for going the cheep way out 8-)
Question, if the secondary air pump is bad, would that cause the catalytic converter to deteriorate? My mechanic, who replaced the cat last November, said he's getting a code that the cat is not functioning but would be covered under his warranty.
I have a '02 1.8 VW Bug, and the check engine light came on. I notice that the RPM guage is zooming up, then down - like, the car is shaking while it is turned on. Could this be the carbeurator - is there something I can do or add to the fuel, etc. before I get taken at the dealer tomorrow morning? Thank you for any input - I can look the car over extensively with any advice offered! :sick:
Does this happen when you're accelerating or holding a steady speed? My Jetta was exhibited a similar problem recently which was diagnosed as a bad mass airflow sensor (MAF). A fuel additive will not help.
I live in GA, the lemon law does not help to return my car...beacuse it have not even been in the shop yet (i SUPPOSED TO HAVE AN APPOINMENT WITH THEM TO FIX IT NEXT TUESDAY, BUT THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME UP TO DAY)
Together with that they sold me the car with a contract that is subject to aproval, and they just ask me after a week that they need that my co signer have to go like primary...because my credit is not enough so I have to do paper work again..will that be my way to finish with this nightmare?
So if i refuse to make a new contract they just have to keep the car, and thay don't suppose to charge nothing to me?
I need help as soon as possible, if someone know about this, or had the same situation I will apreciate advises...I do not wanna keep a "new problem car"
please help
Bless my lady-love, she convinced me to get a second opinion. Took it to a garage across the road, with NO official VW backing or certifications (to the best of my knowledge)...
They hooked it up to THEIR computer (free of charge), looked at the pump, and said that the problem was a broken vacuum line. There was no evidence of ANY damage to the pump itself.
He replaced the hose and the engine light went off.
Of course, by then, all the solenoids in my transmission were toast... but that's another story.
The lesson? Trust you instincts. And your fiance.
GreenKnight
I never wanted to say what car it was or the brand...But it was not a civic, it was a beetle, i post my SOS but nobody of that forum give me a hand, in spite that they had even more issues with the car than me..
Thank you my friends...for alll the help...
now i need to get a new car but I will try to get a Mazda 3 or honda civic,,,,,
thank u thank u
by bye :lemon: car......
any suggestions how to fix my bug?, no signs of life, just cranks.
thanks :sick:
Basically;
1) Open "Access panel" to the bulbs
2) Relase and pull out bulb holder
3) remove bulb from holder.
I beleive the bulb is the VERY SAME ONE used in the original 1960s beetle. Just take the bulb into auto-supply place and they can match it up.
Also sometimes, it seems like the car is not getting gas.
Anyone have any thoughts?
1) Horrible noise
2) Coolant lamp flashing
3) difficult to start
#1 - You will have to provide more detail about the noise. Is it metallic or screeching or grinding or hammering or other? How long is this noise occouring after starting engine? Does it happen EVERY time you start engine?
#2 - The easiest to fix. The antifreeze may be a bit low in the resiviour. When engine is cold, add less than 1/2 cup of DISTILLED water. If you need to add more than 1/2 cup liquid, use only G12 antifreeze. (mixing in other antifreeze can desroy the engine)
#3 - We need more details;
Which engine do you have?
Does this happen only with cold engine?
How long has this been happening?
BTW: I think I know why #3 is happenining... but I will wait for your answers before saying anything.
I have diagnosed and repaired at least 4 problems on the 3 VWs in the family. I would say that my VAG-COM has paid for itself and then some.
The heater blows cold air when I come to a stop light, rapidly cooling from hot air. It again warms when I rev the engine.
Dealer-fortunately had a VW engineer present when I inquired about the problem. It seems that VW is aware that the heater core air locks. The dealer can bleed, but at a cost. After driving 100 miles at highway speed, and topping off the coolant reserve (with Audi approved antifreeze) up to the bottom of the internal ring, it fixed the problem. VW has no TSB on this yet and apparently no fix. Moral: Keep the coolant topped up with approved coolant. I will keep my ear to the ground on this.
The BIG problem you may need to keep an eye on is to make sure that the coolant level is not going down over time. This would indicate an internal leak. (since you did not mention seeing any external leakage)
PS: It is good to hear that you used the approved G12 antifreeze. Some folks have mistakenly mixed in NON-approved antifreeze... this causes a gell to form which may plug up the system.
Thanks
Hint: "Partial Zero Emissions Vehicle"
Yeah, I just recently bought a convertible beetle GLS 1.8T manual,and I love it!!I'll never get another car!!!It's sooo fast!!!They're great cars however the gas mileage sucks compared to the non turbo version..I get about 15 mpg and the non turbo ones get around 25-30 mpg.. My audio is good I haven't had any problems mind is monsoon so if you're looking for something with a kick you'll haft to get a non factory system, ya know what I meen??Over all there awesome cars and soo fun to drive!!! :shades:
Something must be wrong for there to be that much of a difference.
I agree, it is very fun to drive. :shades: