VW GTI (All styles)

gazelle2 · June 2003

I own a 2001 GTI VR6 and have wrestled with whether to keep it at 40+k. If I do, I thought I'd like to add some suspension upgrades, specifically to improve the body lean in cornering. I'm a middle aged guy and a total novice about these technical issues. I don't want to lower the car more than is absolutely necessary, and certainly don't want to race it--just enjoy a tighter ride which measures up more to the car's potential. Also.I don't want my wife asking why the car is now providing a bone crunching ride ! What is possible and reasonably affordable to provide better cornering without sacrificing much ground clearance on a 2001? I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks!

allhorizon · June 2003

Jared (nedzel),

sounds like some of your repairs should have been covered under warranty. Try to push harder for that.

My '94 Golf needed replacement shocks after about two years (under warranty), but has been fine since, at about 130,000 miles now. I have not had a single repair in the past 50,000 miles. At significantly less than $1000 repair cost in 10 years and getting 29mpg ave/35 highway, I am not sure I want to replace this car.

- D.

lngtonge18 · June 2003

I would look into Neuspeed SofSport springs and Bilstein HD shocks. The Sofsport springs won't lower your car but are slightly firmer than stock springs. The Bilstein HD gas shocks are firmer than stock but still provide a comfortable ride. Those two combined will give you better handling and less lean without making the ride punishing or lowering your car. I highly recommend this combo for those who aren't into all out handling and lowering their car. I have this setup on my 84 GTI and have been extremely happy with it.

rickrover · June 2003

What I'd try first is a rear sway bar. I put a Neuspeed 25mm rear sway bar on my GTI - amazing difference. try it with the stock suspension, it's very easy to install or cheap to have someone do it for you. Take a look at www.greedspeed.com for good prices on Neuspeed products. The recommendation of the sofsport springs and Bilstiens is also a good idea but only if you need new shocks/ struts.

gazelle2 · June 2003

I appreciate the info---first anti-sway bar and maybe the springs and shocks if it doesn't get crazy expensive. One more question. I found out about a VW/Audi shop in Ivyland, Pa. which specializes in modifications and also carries and installs performance chips.The upside seems to be obvious---more power! What are the negative consequences, if any? Too much power for the car design? Miserable gas mileage. I suppose it turns the thing into a real monster, but the VR6 is already plenty lively.

nedzel · June 2003

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the Neuspeed sway bar hangs below the rear suspension, thus reducing ground clearance. That may not be an issue for some, but it is for me.

revka · June 2003

because they were not within our Town Hall guidelines.

To those concerned: please check your email. Also, feel free to email me if you have any questions/comments regarding this matter. Please do not address this with me here. Thanks.

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Host/Hatchbacks & Wagons

rickrover · June 2003

The Neuspeed rear sway bar doesn't decrease ground clearance - it tucks up under the car nicely - I have to get under the car to see it. Another nice aspect of this sway bar is it's adjustable. You have 3 settings - I have mine set on the middle (neutral) position. It is amazing what this does to the handling, not only is sway eliminated but it acts very much like a rear wheel drive car, understeer is nearly eliminated.

Neuspeed makes 2 swaybars for the GTI, a 25mm and a 28mm. I have the 25mm which is recommended with the factory front sway bar. You would use the 28mm if you install their front sway bar. No need for the 28mm - the 25mm is an amazing transformation.

adg44 · June 2003

From my previous post:

The Neuspeed sway bar really doesn't affect ground clearance, because it is so close to the bar. It maybe lowers it an inch - I never had any issues and I was lowered over 2". It really did help the body lean, even after I had the whole suspension done (shocks, struts, strut tower bar, front H&R sway bar) the rear really completed it. But if you aren't going to upgrade the front sway bar to a 25mm (no need to change the front sway bar unless you have driveshaft rubbing issues) then be sure to get a 25mm rear sway bar and not a 28mm. It is very important to properly match your front and rear sway bars. The 23mm stock front sway bar and the 25mm rear sway bar from neuspeed makes the car very neutral. You'll enjoy it.

nedzel, it is an easy fix to replace your shifter rod - it is a common problem with the 12v VR6s that they go bad. If you e-mail me at adg44@earthlink.net I will e-mail you the link. It is very easy and takes all of 10 minutes and $55 for the part. The car will run better and smoother and stronger after you replace this. To compare power differences, I was running 150whp and 169wtq when I dyno'd with the bad shifter rod, and after I replaced it a month later I ran 172whp and 188wtq (201 hp and 222 torque - mind you this is from a 12v VR6, not bad, eh?).

What is causing your rear brake discs to go is that the pad gets so low, there isn't any pad anymore and then it's just metal on metal, and that ruins your rotors. VW rotors can't be turned, they are too soft and don't have enough meat to be turned, like many japanese cars can. Rear rotors for the car are only 15 bucks a piece for replacement ATE rotors (the same people who make the VW rotors, pads, and calipers) from www.germanautoparts.com - they are great guys. The pads for the rear are dirt cheap also.

Anyway, drop me an e-mail and I'll give you the link to my pictoral how-to for the shifter rod replacement.

- Anthony

gazelle2 · June 2003

I've ordered these KR suspension upgrades(they were very high on this product) from a shop in Pa. and will go for the 25 mm sway bar as well. Does the VR6 Giac chip do much for 0-60 times? It sounds promising in that it might increase mileage and improve trottle response. I was just wondering if you actually get measurable improvement. The stock 2001 GTI VR6 was good for (I think) 6.8, which is pretty decent--though low 6s would be nicer!

nkeen · September 2003

Brakes: I've had no problem with brake wear. At 20K miles the dealer told me the rotors looked new.
Clutches: Perhaps this pertains. I'm originally from the UK. I've noticed that American drivers do not restrain a manual transmission car by the hand brake at an intersection (in the UK you would fail a driving test for slipping the clutch to hold the car or for transitioning from footbrake to accelerator without using the handbrake to hold the car during the transition -- for failure to maintain postive control of the vehicle at all times). Time and time again, I see a car stopped at a hilly intersection, held on the foot brake, then slipping backwards in my direction as the light turns green and the driver attempts to transition from brake to accelerator. I quickly learned to anticipate this by assessing whether the car in front of me is a manual and allowing extra space accordingly. Why is this issue not addressed during driver education, I wonder? Besides risk to self and others, it's murder on clutches.

nixomose · September 2003

I had well over 120k on my 87 gti when I traded up for a 99 vr6. There was nothing wrong with it, I just couldn't afford 3 cars and really wanted the vr6.

On a side note about the brakes, apparently one of my rear calipers is sticking because by the time I noticed the right rear pad was gone. I mean gone. other three pads are fine.
Pain in the rear to push the caliper piston back in without their special tool. I hate that. They couldn't make it easy, like use a c-clamp or screwdriver becasue they want you to buy the special part. I like the fact that even with the ABS you don't have to bleed the brakes, making it possible with one person.

markjenn · September 2003

I don't think US drivers are taught the technique of holding a car on a hill with the hand brake (or emergency foot brake) becuase nearly all drivers education in the US is in automatic cars. With an auto, the technique is required only on the most severe hills, and even the most novice drivers can generally get from the brake to the accelerator quickly enough with an auto to avoid significant rolling backwards.

However, I doubt the practice of not using the hand brake on a hill was much to do with accelerated clutch wear. Whether you preload the clutch against the hand brake, or simply "pop" the clutch quickly to get underway without rolling backwards, either way, you get about the same clutch wear.

What really kills a clutch is using engine power and clutch slip to hold the car on the hill with no brakes whatsoever. I see this being done now and then. Also, many US drivers do not understand that, at a stop, neutral should be engaged. Instead, they leave the car in gear and hold the clutch down. Over time, the clutch tends to bleed down, especially on an older car, and drags while they're sitting at the light.

Used properly and not abused, it has been my experience that most clutches will last virtually indefnitely - I have had cars go 200K miles with the original clutch, even driven aggressively, but not abused.

- Mark

nixomose · September 2003

I've never understood how anybody could burn out a clutch on a GTI, they're layed out such that you have to TRY to lay into the clutch. Maybe it's just me.

As for neutral. I disagree with you. And here's why. While from a mechanical point of view you are right, saves wear and tear on the spring and all that (I never understood why a hydrolic clutch and not cables, but whatever)
But here's why you sit in first gear.
There's a guy in front of you at the red light, and a guy coming up behind you who's xxxxing his girlfriend. You see him coming and peel out into the shoulder (ALWAYS leave enough room in front of you to do this, so you don't have to back up) before he notices and slams on the brakes and hits the guy who was in front of you instead of you.

This actually happened to me, and I'll take a little clutch wear over getting killed in my gti any day.

tyn1 · September 2003

Hi.. I have a problem that one of my tires need to be replaced; the Michelin Pilots that come with the 17" Wheel Option from the dealer. I am not a big fan of these tires but I really do not need to replace the other three. BUT for the price of one new Michelin Pilot I am considered geting 4 new... any suggestions? ~Tyn.

wetwillie · September 2003

Got my official recall notice from VW for my '02 GTI 24V VR6! Been a long time comin - an actual admission by VW that even coilpaks that have never failed will be replaced by VW at no cost.

This supercedes the previous replacement policy that only replaced failed coilpaks.

djdcmd · September 2003

I just bought a brand new yellow 337, and have a question about break-in: while I was test-driving, I asked the salesperson if there was a break-in period. He responded with an emphatic 'no, you could rip it to shreds right now'. After buying it, I couldn't resist the urge to gun it a few times. Three or four times, I hit about 5500 to 6000 RPM. I always give it time to warm up and such before doing this. Today, I finally read the manual with break-in instructions (I know, that was dumb), along with many peoples' posts about the first 1000 miles, etc. Is there a reasonable probability that I have damaged the car already? I haven't driven it any higher than 60 or 65 mph, and have generally kept the rpms to a safe level (<4k) at all other times.

Thanks for your help!

adg44 · September 2003

Just be gentle on it for the first 500 or so miles, and aviod wide open throttle.

Also, you have a 20AE if it's yellow.

sanstfe · October 2003

I am original owner with 33,000 mi. My clutch does not always grab when shifting. This started occurring recently. I am an experienced manual driver. Has anyone else experienced this premature clutch burn-out/wear?

Is there anyway to adjust the clutch to compensate or fix the problem without replacing the entire clutch?

How hard is it to replace and can a backyard mechanic do this to save $?

adg44 · October 2003

A lot of the 1.8T clutches wear out early.....

newcar04 · November 2003

I test drove a 2003 GTI VR6 today and loved it. What fun! Unfortunately, this site has many messages that describe significant, persistent quality problems. It seems as if it would be risky, if not outright foolish, to buy such a vehicle.

What do all of you GTI owners have to say?

joe249 · November 2003

TI have a RX Type S and test drove a GTI and I loved it,but I won't buy it because of all the quality issues.

nixomose · November 2003

FINALLY!!! In case you guys haven't gotten this yet, VW sent me a letter in the mail yesterday, they're warranteeing the guaranteed-to-go-bad MAF for 7 years and will reimburse you if you have some amount of proof that you did it yourself.
I guess enough people called and complained about this. I know I did.
$200+ part, and $35 to get vw to tell me that they won't fix it under warantee.
So for all of you who had this done (and I know some of you have becuase you told me what was wrong when it happened to me) go call up vw and ask how to get the claim form for reimbursement.
The cool part is according to the letter, you don't have to have the actual receipt, I guess they're being reasonable, I certainly don't keep recipts for everything I buy, but if you CC bill shows the charge, they'll be happy with that.
Pass the word.

jcu1886 · December 2003

Had the ignition coil replaced per the recall, this past week, in my 2003 GTI 1.8T manual. Car has 6,500 miles with absolutely no reliability issues thus far (since 31 May purchase). It's early, I know...

abqwabbit · December 2003

ok ok...the vw shop says my vin does not meet the coil recall and when i asked about the maf warrantee thing i got the glazed deer-caught-in-headlite look....am i being snowed in new mexico?

gtichan · December 2003

Alot of dealers told me the coilpack was only for the 1.8T and didn't hear anything about VR6. Well my coilpack on my 2001 GLX VR6 died on me and I had force the dealer to make it FREE! Scream at them shout at them. They wont understand. They finally acknowledged it was a problem and fixed it though. I truely loved my GTI, but seriously of all the cars I've had this one gave me the most trouble. Door rattles, moon roof wierd, mis aligned headlights, epc light, coil pack MAF..which all of them the dealers will never fix.more then the car, I HATE VW dealers!!! they are rude, arrogant, and always booked! I won't name the place, but the dealer in quincy, MA was a nightmare. Can't believe BBB allows them to sell cars. I fixed my GTI in columbus,OH since they are a "little" more responsive, though money hungry. aahh! as you can tell I sold my car. VW has to realize that customer service is the most important thing. As much as I love VW products, I do not recommend them until service gets better. BTW, I own a AUDI A3 back home, virtually a golf, and it never had a problem except for the autoshift getting stuck only once. perhaps where it is build does make a difference!
But ofcourse not all GTI are unreliable, and there are good dealers out there too. If you do decide to get a GTI , remember to put on rear swaybars and a nice set of tires

and DRIVE SAFE!

conall · January 2004

I used to live in Germany, and drove my modified '92 16V GTI to work every day. About 25 miles of Autobahn & then 11 miles of twisted hilly road. In the winter I'd be passing cars that didn't have front wheel drive (BMW & Mercedes)like they were standing still. Front wheel drive is great!: On the corners of that windy road they couldn't compete even in dry weather!

adg44 · January 2004

Of the MkII instead of the FWD. RWD should do better in corners, and in snow, you will love AWD.

What mods did you have to your 16v?

conall · January 2004

The mods were an (almost) European spec. intake cam from Neuspeed that was still U.S. legal & a modified airbox with K&N filter. I know AWD cars are a total blast to drive - I own an '83 Audi Urquattro. Is your A4 AWD, too?

adg44 · January 2004

Is a lot of fun, for a bigger car atleast. I love cornering with it, as I just can't lose grip.

Not to mention how much fun it is in the snow

Only downside is the extra weight and drivetrain loss. And I miss not being able to chirp my wheels inbetween shifts.

nixomose · January 2004

How I miss that car. I'd happily trade my 99.5 vr6 for a brand new 92 any day. I'll eat the 10K loss. It was nimble as a rabbit. oh well, bygones are bygones.

As for service, owning three gti's in the past 12 years, I have had little trouble, and it's all about the particular dealer. The best I ever met: jack daniels porsche audi VW on route 4 in new jersey. the two worst places are now out of business (heh heh) VW does try, but I also remember trying to buy my 92 the salesman was almost yelling at me how much it sucks to be a vw dealer because they weren't exporting that many cars for 93 or so. Remember the year of no-gti?

Herm, still haven't heard back from VW about my maf refund...

aks · January 2004

I recently purchased a VW 6 Disc In-Dash changer on ebay from the UK to install in my US model 2000 GTi GLX. I took the car to a VW dealership in Canada and was told:
1. Didn't fit - that i needed a plate that is supposed to come with it for installation between the stock Monsoon head unit, but nothing came with the Changer.
2. The changer was made for the New Beetle and so required and adaptor to connect the changer to the head unit, but the power adaptor fit.
3. That the VW techs didn't have enuf experience to do a work around.

PS. I already have the trunk mounted VW 6 Disc changer.

Getting frustrated, I decided to seek assistance from anybody who has been thru a self install of the 6 Disc In-Dash changer to give me a run down of how I can accomplish this install myself. I have the Radio removal tools to take out the head unit, but I cannot even get the storage receptacle that currently occupies the DIN slot where the In-Dash changer should go out of it's location.

Any assistance would help - do i need an adapter to connect the changer to the head unit? When i bought the changer on eBay.co.uk, the seller said it was a quick install, but these VW chaps are now telling me, no can't do? Please HELPP!!!!

aks - canada

nixomose · January 2004

Well I got a phone call from VWoA asking me for the original work order for the MAF that I replaced. (this is in reference to the recall and possible refund on those of us suckers who paid for the repair ourselves)
But since I did it myself, I don't have a repair order. Now they don't seem to keen on helping me out, since I have no great way of proving I did it.
But they said they'd review it again.

Probably to make me feel better before they say no.

adg44 · January 2004

If you do, I'd be sure to send that to them...

If you ordered it online, I am sure you can get a copy of your invoice.

volksman2 · February 2004

Is there a commercially available product that will fortify the rear of a 2000 GTI GLS? My Volkwagen feels loose and terribly old as it traverses the potholes and avulsions of the streets of New York city.

carlisimo · February 2004

I've heard that VWs have a laggy accelerator. On manual transmission models, how's the response when you put your foot on the pedal?

conall · February 2004

My 2.0 16V didn't have any lag to speak of!

gsolman6 · February 2004

Its a drive-by-wire system, so there is a fraction of a second lag compared to mechanically actuated throttles.

Off course there is some lag with turbos anyway so add this fraction of a second to this other one. Still in stock form the 1.8t is my favorite engine for under $20k - think smooth, powerful, and thrifty. You don't get on Ward's 10 best list consective years by producing 2nd rate designs. Supposedly the lag can be cured with blow off valves, cold air intakes, chips, etc.

adg44 · February 2004

buying your way onto the list!

There are a lot of skeptics in regards to the wards top ten list.

carlisimo · February 2004

If that lag can be cured with an aftermarket product I'd be interested in anyway, then it's not so much of a problem for me. I've never driven a drive-by-wire car (nor a turbo) so when I hear of lag I think of what happens when I drive an automatic (in my case they've always been c1990 economy cars). I could not live with that sort of throttle response, but it's sounding like it's nothing like that.

nixomose · February 2004

I have a vr6 and the drive by wire drives me nuts. But alas, I don't think there's anything you can do about it. the worst bit is if you step on the gas and brake at the same time, the nice computer disengages the gas pedal completely. very odd. (probably as a result of that audi lawsuit)
I don't have a turbo gti, but I have a turbo subaru and turbo lag is turbo lag, no way around it, except to get rid of the turbo and get a supercharger :-)

adg44 · February 2004

Takes away most of the throttle lag.

www.giacusa.com

chchoi · March 2004

My GTI rear window washer does not spray fluid. Does anyone have the same problem? I checked there are fluid in the tank. Front washer works fine. Is this something I can fix?
Dealer quote me $125 to fix the problem. Just the cost of labor. Ouch.

nixomose · March 2004

I had my brand spanking new vr6 two weeks when I got hit by a deer.
One of the things that broke was the washer fluid container. They replaced it but filled it with water not something with a lower freezing temp. I never noticed. So come winter the whole thing turned into a block of ice, when it all melted, the washer fluid never sprayed out the back. I think it was still under warantee when they fixed it (hell, they broke it) but I think the hose that fed the rear shprizter broken. Good luck finding the leak :-)

chchoi · March 2004

Dealer found out the washer spray was clogged by debris and it cannot be cleaned. It needs to be replaced. Cost is 120 (part and labor). I don't use rear washer so often. Maybe I should use to more to prevent clogged up again.

moparbad · May 2004

http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?article=7158

Won't be long now.

nixomose · May 2004

Sorry - no profanity, masked or otherwise. Please feel free to edit and re-post without the

Sylvia
Town Hall Manager
Edmunds.com

#909 of 909 it's a honda by nixomose May 28, 2004 (2:55 pm)
are they serious?

Tell me this isn't the same car...

http://tinyurl.com/ysbqh

nixomose · June 2004

Well, lo and behold. I got a check for $250 from VW today, reimbursing me for the MAF I had to replace as well as the two computer checks I had to get to prove to VW it was the MAF.
It may have taken over 6 months, but they did finally make good on their promise to pay back those who laid out the cash for the part.

mutarjim · June 2004

So my wife goes out last Saturday and gets herself a new GTI 1.8T. I had my eye on a Mini CooperS, but after driving her car and looking into the even more muscular VR6, I was hooked. I just picked up my Silverstone Grey VR6 yesterday, and I'm in love with this car. A few notes about the two:

- Both the 1.8T and the VR6 are exceptionally quick cars from 1st gear to last (5th for the 1.8T, 6th for the VR6). The VR6 is a bit smoother, though, and purports a higher top speed of 146 mph, vs. the 1.8T's "modest" 135.

- Whether you get the 1.8T or the VR6, you should definitely spring for the upgrade packages. Luxury (Monsoon sound system, Sunroof), Leather (Leather, plus heated seats and windshield cleaning fluid), and Technology (onboard computer, auto-dimming rearview mirror, Automatic Climate Control, and rain-sensing intermittent wipers), are all worthy additions. My wife has just the Luxury, which is a must-have. The Leather and Tech make a world of difference in this car, though. The entire thing feels SO luxurious (and for under 25K).

- About the leather: I recommend the black over the grey. The reason is, the grey gets you matching grey interior panels below the dash and on the door. This mix of dark and light colors tends to make the interior look cheap. It's NOT cheap, though, and the black leather keeps all surfaces the same tone, which really makes the whole car look great.

- The only real benefit of the Monsoon sound system is that you'll have hookups for eight speakers (6.5" mid plus .5" tweeter X 4) when you replace them all. The sooner you do this, the better, as far as I'm concerned. I'm not a "Ghetto Rattle" car stereo advocate, but I do like a nice, deep tone, and these speakers don't do it. In case you're wondering, I'm going with the same setup as in my last car: MB Quart Discus Series (www.mbquart.com) all the way around, plus a 10-inch sub, also MB Quart Discus, in the back and two Alpine amps to power them all.

- Despite what you may have read about cupholders in previous models, rest assured that the 04's on sale now include relocated holders (they're in the center console now, next to the parking brake lever). The previous location was, indeed, stupid. The current set-up is just fine.

- That being said, though, you should know that the armest/center storage bin, while scoring points for having an "Up" and "Down" position choice, isn't placed very well, and shifting with it in the "Down" position is a bit awkward. When it's in the "up" position, you're almost always going to smack it with your elbow if you're reaching back at all. Not too bad, since it's the only problem I have with these cars yet, but I'm picky, and it's a pain.

I'll update in a few weeks, but these cars are incredible. Regardless of which of the two GTI's you choose, you'll be really happy with the engine performance and handling. Spring for the upgrade packages, and you'll smile every time you open you car door to take a drive.

jchagtdi · July 2004

I almost soiled my drawers this morning when I saw that VW is offering 0% financing for 60 months on the new GTI!

I have driven a '99 Jetta VR6, and fell in love with it instantly. I am a previous VW TDI owner and am familiar with their quirks (problems), but I have never owned a gas VW or the VR6 engine. How do these engines hold up? The VR6 is buttery smooth, and will very often be humming up around redline. Besides awful gas mileage, are these any problems that these engines encounter if they are worked out regularly. I always strictly adhere to manufacturer's break-in requirements, and I perform maintenance (oil changes, timing belts, water pumps) religiously. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks!

Jeff

VW GTI (All styles)

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