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Eagle Talon - Need Advice
I have an opportunity to buy a '92 Talon for my
son; it has about 130,000 miles on it. Does
anyone
have any pros/cons/experience that can help me? I
would really appreciate ANY advice. For example,
how's the gas mileage, insurance, repair history?
As you can tell, I know almost nothing about the
make. Thanks.
son; it has about 130,000 miles on it. Does
anyone
have any pros/cons/experience that can help me? I
would really appreciate ANY advice. For example,
how's the gas mileage, insurance, repair history?
As you can tell, I know almost nothing about the
make. Thanks.
0
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
those are very important when you have a turbo car. look for the oil chage to be done every 2000 miles not 3000. turbos need oil changes more frequently. if you have any other questions just post and ill answer them. bye now
thanx alot
Please tell me if this helps.
Tylan
If the battery is on the left side of the engine, it's a turbo. If the battery is on the right side, it's an NA (normally aspirated, non turbo engine).
If you want to figure out if it's an ESi or base model - ESi has a rear windshield wiper, base model does not.
As for an older question - the Eclipse and the Talon are the EXACT same car, except for body style, that's it. It just depends if you want to pay more for the Eclipse than the Talon of the same year.
RS = base
GS = ESi
GS-T = TSi
GS-X = TSi AWD
GS Spyder and GS-T Spyder had no Eagle equiv.
Another note - properly maintained means SYNTHETIC oil for turbos, not dino (normal) oil. It costs more, but what is more costly? A bit of oil, or an engine/turbo rebuild? Turbos make the engine run hotter. Synth oil can take the hotter temps. We've got many guys in the club with 100k+ miles on their cars, and they are drag racing them to boot. These are reliable cars *IF* you take care of them. This goes for any car though. You simply have to take more care with something that is a performace vehicle.
Devon
Thunder.
A typically well maintained dsm turbo engine, should last you 150k miles on average. Stock of course.
Although on rare occasions, I've seen ones with over 200k.
1# Always cool your turbo by letting your car idle for a few minutes when done driving. (Especially after being on the highway!)
2# Frequent oil changes. 2500 miles with conventional oil and "premium" filter. The oil gets dark and dirty real quick. I recommend using mobil 1 and changing it every 5k.
3# New timing belt every 60k miles.
New spark plugs every 30k. Full tuneup every 60k with new plug wires. Fresh coolant every 60k.
Tranny fluid every 60k, Differential fluid every 60k also.
In case you don't know, any 95+ eclipse gs/rs or talon esi, come with 2.0L dodge neon motors. Its a completely different motor and has nothing in common with the 2.0l turbo.
If you drive both and compare the difference, the last thing on your mind will be reliability :-D
The awd dsm's are one of best well rounded, all season sports cars you can buy. For the money of course..
Its not as reliable as honda or toyota.
But with a little extra care, these cars should'nt give you any headaches and will reward you with there performance.
1# fuel filter
2# spark plugs
3# spark-plug wires especially!(Solves alot of problems like this. These car are known for chewing up plug wires due to the extreme heat these engines put out)
Good luck!
I would be purchasing the eclipse with about 45,000 miles on it. My main concern is the reliability of the eclipse. I know i'll have to rely on how the previous owner treated the turbo, but i'm concerned about the upkeep of a the eclipse, not just the turbo but the overall package. If some TSI owners could let me know what to expect, i would be grateful.
thanks,
scott
I have a 92 Talon and it recently started doing the *EXACT* same thing you describe - reving up and down in park, etc....I have tried explaining this to people and no one here knows either! Please let me know if you find out anything and I will do the same!!
You can email me directly too at 'amc12@duke.edu'
Thanks,
Amy
Also how about the reliability of this car?
The one I drove seems to be in a pretty good shape but only problem I've noticed is that the car doesn't have a PICK-UP (as Eclipses are supposed to have.)
What's the price that I may expect to pay for 1990-1994 eclipse/talon which has done 90-110k miles?
Thanks
Later I noticed that when the car was idling, the oil pressure began dropping to the bottom of the safe operating range. Immediately I took the car in. The dealer replaced the sensor twice and the gauge once to no effect. Finally the removed the oil pan to discover wear on the crank shaft and the main bearing failing. This was at 53,000 km (~33,000 miles). 4 weeks and one new crank later I finally got my car back. I drove 1 block and turnd back to the dealer with a check engine light on. they forgot to plug something in. The next day I was back with a U/S tach. Again this was due to an improper connection. Finally one week later (last week), the first time with the cart on the highway and guess what, the gear box craps out. Now I'm being told by Chrysler that this isn't warranty (I'm past 3 years) and I'll have to pay the $4,200.00 ($2,700.00 US) for a new gear box.
Personally, I find it hard to believe that the gear failure isn't in some way related to all of the other power train defects that the car suffered from previously. Additionally, every time I have taken my car in for work I have had to return to get the repair fixed the next day.
It's funny too cause my other car is a Dodge Avenger ES, made, I believe in the same plant as the Talon and the only problem I've had with it is a leaky rad hose.
This is a known problem with 5sp dsm's. Mitsubishi/Chrysler knows about this, but will not do a recall on the problem.
Many people are suffering your pain.
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/crankwalktheory.htm
The vehicle has most fittings :- a/c, all power, decent stereo etc. ( But no sun-roof. )
I request you for the following advise :-
- Is this a reliable car ?
- Is it expensive to maintain ?
- Is 90,000 miles on the higher side ?
What amount should I offer the owner.
Will appreciate your advise/tips.
Tks./Mo
I've never heard of any major issues with them.
There not expensive to maintain, just make sure the timing belts are replaced every 60k.
As long as the car has a clean title and has no mechnenical issues.
I would look to settle on a price between 1500-2000.
I had a similar problem with my 1991 Talon several years ago and three separate dealerships could not determine what was wrong. The fourth did, however. The oxygen sensor needed replacing. Why diagnostic tests could not determine the problem initially is beyond me. Hope this helps both of you.
-Dave
Does this look like a deal or am I getting [non-permissible content removed]-raped by a Gorilla? What kind of maintenance cost am I looking at?
Thanx a bunch!
I just checked edmunds here and if the cars fully loaded and in tip top condition. The "dealer" retail is about $9000.
"Private" party price is around $7500.
Look like a deal...Nope.
Especially since the expensive 60k mile service is coming up.
But I'm also not sure if these prices mean anything in Canada.
The last time I believe I replaced my plugs was around 30,000 miles, quite some time ago. At that time, I used platinum plugs and replaced the wires. I was having an undiagnosed problem at that time, too, which turned out to be the wires. Also tried the fule and air filters at that time. I had the timing belt replaced about a year ago, along with the fuel filter and air filter again. The problem was happening before and after that.
I did take the car to a transmission shop and the man did not put it on a lift, but took it for a ride and did not think anything indicated a transmission problem. He said the transfer case would sound loud if on a lift. Did not think I needed to get into taking the transmission apart.
I do not know when the last time the distributor cap and rotor were replaced. Or if they were at all. In fact, I do not think they were. I have had to replace the tires, brake rotors, and pads a few times. Even though I don't drive hard, the car goes through them quick. Also had to replace A/C parts.
As I said, I enjoy driving it and it has been a good car for over 11 years. The other cars I am considering in its place are the Audi S4 or A6 2.7T (seen some for good prices).
I have been paying more attention to this stuttering/hesitation lately. It happens at varying engine speeds. For example, this morning I noticed it at about 3000 RPM. It does not happen if the car is in neutral. The boost gauge shows the turbo building pressure. Should I have the fuel pressure measured? It happens more when I am accelerating hard. But, if I let up as it starts and shift, I can usually accelerate more.
Thanks again. If you have more suggestions, I would be happy to hear them. I'll keep you all filled in!
*EDIT*
BTW it's a base model, new tires, great condition.
With that said, it never left me on the side of the road. It was a neat car with plenty of high-rev power (would surprise a lot of people with it).
I caution... parts can be VERY expensive. I had a problem with my car stalling at idle. over $800 later, they replaced one very small part relating to the fuel system (so long ago, don't recall specifics).
From day one, always had a problem with the car hesitating in cold whether. It did not happen frequently but enough to annoy me. Dealer never solved it.
Caution....if you have to get brakes/rotors replaced, use OEM. Many complaints about after-market making tons of noise and wearing prematurely. (again, very expensive parts).
Would I buy another if I had the choice? No. I would go with a more reliable vehicle.
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
205ft-lbs @ 3000rpm wheras the Eclipse has
205ft-lbs @ 6000rpm. I was wondering what difference in performance that would make. I also notcied that the Eclipse costs a considerable amount more than the Talon and I was curious as to why? Also, If the Talon is recommended I was wondering what benefits I would receive from getting AWD. The AWD weighs alot more so I was leaning more towards the FWD unless there is a significant benefit in performance from the AWD. I plan to "sup-up" my car and am interested in performance as well as price, more money left in the pocket to enhance the visual aspect of the car. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You.
Terry