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If there are signs of cracks anywhere on the coil, its time to replace it. A lot of VW mechanics and dealerships that I know have a simple test they use. While the engine is running, they take some water in a spray bottle and wet the coil. If the engine hesitates or dies, the coil is bad (I just replaced the coil on my Jetta with the 2.0 Liter engine). This situation is applicable with the 2.0 Liter 8V engine ONLY.
They sell the coil at VW dealers for $150 - $175, depending on your locale. I would highly recommend NOT installing a used coil in your car. A bad coil is a definite showstopper.
I put 624,000 miles on a 1987 Golf GT with the original coil. I have no idea why manufacturers don't leave well enough alone and keep the original coil design - which was infinitely more reliable.
Thanks
Once again, the reliability is sketchy. MAke sure your dealer is good.
villa
I have ordered a MINI. I expect it to be as buggy as a VW - it is from what I've heard, BUT BMW JUMPS ON PROBLEMS AND FIXES THEM, at least from what I've heard. I think that's the key difference - if you have a "premium" brand its ok to have glitches, but don't leave your customer holding the bag, as I was with VW.
Thank you
In the other hand, I have check out several websites and all talk about a good or fair realiability for the golf. For example:
http://autos.msn.com/home/reliability_ratings.aspx?src=LeftNav
http://research.cars.com/go/crp/safety.jsp?makeid=48&modelid=- 445&year=2003&myid=&acode=&crpPage=summary.jsp&am- p;aff=national
http://www.autoweb.com/content/research/vir/index.cfm/vehicle_num- ber_int/1013342/Action/Reliability
http://www.epinions.com/auto_Make-2003_Volkswagen_Golf/display_~r- eviews
What do you think?
Do you believe that reliability will be a problem for most people or only a question of bad luck?
Thank you in advance for your replies.
thanks
Keep in mind that the 2.0L engine has a tendancy to consume some oil if not broken in correctly. This is not a "bad" thing, one just needs to check the oil level once in awhile.
My daughter purchased a gem such as this last fall and she really LOVES her loaded Golf GLS. Who cares if it needs a quart of oil every 2000 miles or so if the price is right? She drives that thing all over new-england.
The 12-year/unlimited mileage warantee against body-corrosion is also a big plus here in Vermont. (most Asian models will show rust after 4-5 years)
I have had many VWs over the years and the all went well over 130K miles. (Some are still on the road today)
The current ride is a 2004 Golf GLS with 5 speed, silver on gray.
The car has definitelly improved since 2001. The engine drone that used to annoy me between 60 and 75 mph is gone. The car is really silent.
The handling has actually improved; I found the 2001 wallowy, but the current edition is "relatively" well controlled, and what little body lean is left is worth the trade off in the luxo ride. Of the cars I have, this is by far the most comfortable riding.
I had expected to immediately jump in with a tire and suspension upgrade; the Goodyear LS tires on my Scion and PT Cruiser were pretty noisy. Here, on the Golf, they are relatively quiet. I don't know if that is better body isolation (the PT Cruiser is actually very well sound proofed, except for the tire roar) or due to different manufacturer specs (the LS tires on the Scion and PT were both T rated, as opposed to H rated on the VW). But hey, I am happy with the result.
I am still not entirely happy with the seating position. To get the seat in the right place for my right leg on the accelerator pedal (not cramped) I end up having to flex my left foot forward for a complete clutch release. If I were going to rally, I would pull the seat closer and accept the somewhat cramped right leg position in exchange for a more ideal left leg clutch position, but for commuting I am more inclined to keep the right leg comfortable, since the righ foot is always on the gas pedal, while the left foot is only occasionally on the clutch.
I bought this car because I ordered a MINI. No, that's not as odd as it sounds. After my semi-frustrating experience with the 2001 Golf, I decided it was going to be an American or Japanese car from there on out (better reported reliability), and no German cars. Then I fell in love with the MINI. Then, as delivery approached, I began to question why I was willing to accept a MINI with its quirks (teensy size, no luggage space, back space too small for Crash Test Dummies - literally - check the NHTSA site!) and lack of dealerships, but wasn't willing to work more proactively with the quirks of the much larger Golf. Finally I decided the Golf has the features I really want - 4 wheel disc brakes, ABS, stability control program, side curtain air bags, real "boot" (read: trunk), and real back seat; plus 4 doors for my wife and kid (in a pinch, this is supposed to be my "personal" car). I figured I was giving up higher resale value on the MINI and MOST excellent handling, but gaining a 0% interest rate and other incentives. In short, if the MINI "midi" were here, as predicted in a few short years, I would have stuck with the MINI, even as a two door, but in balance I chose VW due to their many years over here and gradual refinement.
Things I like about the new Golf, that weren't there last time: the grocery bag hooks on the back of the rear seat; the ESP (stability control); side curtain airbags; quieter at freeway speeds; soft ride, but well controlled.
I expect to keep this car longer than typical for me, maybe 3-4 years, and trade it in on the next generation; that should give VW a chance to get the bugs out of the next generation, which is due here, depending on what rumors you read, either in the spring of 2005, or late 2005, first as a GTi then as the regular models a few months later. Based on my experience with VW's glacial model changes, and buggy intro's, I decided a well refined Mark IV might be a better bet than an early edition of the Mark V.
My "coping strategy" for dealing with the inevitable VW quirks is as follows: (1) only dealer oil changes, no more independent oil changes (no stripped oil pan - they use new drain bolts at oil changes); (2) run 5-40 if that's what the manual calls for, instead of the fallback 5-30 (thanks for the tip about Rotella synthetic at Wally World, I'll buy a jug and walk it in); (3) no paranoia about adding a quart of oil now and then (its just a 2.0 fact of life, though one salesman told me the oil consumption issue has been "fixed"); (4) 5,000 mile oil changes, instead of 3,000 with conventional oil, will take the sting out of waiting at the dealer (no, I won't follow the 10,000 mile interval recommended after the first two oil changes).
Service on my 2001 was actually quite cheap at the dealer. My dealer doesn't "oversell" non-VW recommended upgrades to the manual's requirements. I intend to do some minor service upgrades myself, however: (1) air filter changes every 10,000 miles (in lieu of a freer flowing, but less well protecting, K&N gauze filter); (2) a bottle of Heet dehydrator every 3,000 miles to keep the fuel system dry (my former problems may have been related to fuel contamination); (3) Premium unleaded (not required, but recommended by the manual - the ECU is adaptive) (also the new Shell and Chevron gasolines are supposed to have higher levels of detergency); (4) spark plugs every 20,000 instead of 40,000 miles (I noticed a significant improvement when the 2001 had its plugs replaced at 40,000 miles, leading me to believe that 40,000 is a tad too far); and (5) spark plug wires every 40,000 miles. Given the relatively inexpensive dealer service I have, this will be no more expensive than similar maintenance on my other cars (which won't get such lavish treatment).
If any one has any suggestions, let me know, otherwise I intend to enjoy my ride in the moutains of Northern California.
And no, the 2.0 isn't too slow, its just has such a smooth and quiet power delivery, it's underappreciated.
I am currently leasing a Passat, but the lease is about to expire. I have my eyes on the Golf, since I do mostly city driving, and desire something a bit smaller. The Golf is certainly more reasonably priced than the MINIs, which are selling above sticker.
I wish the 4-Door Golf had the 1.8T engine in it. The GTI's "sport seats" basically make it a non-starter for me, as I find them quite uncomfortable.
New to the list and really only have one question. Inside the Headlight Housing is a Parking lamp. Does anyone know the type of bulb used and does anyone know where I can get the female harness that plugs into the connector?
Thanks for your time
Mr. Ugly
I have learned the hard way about VW. I have been told by VW salesmen that VW's have ALWAYS had electrical problems, and they are overpriced for what they are worth. I sure hope that you don't have the same problems I do. Now that I'm trying to trade my car in, they won't even give me 1/4 of what I paid for it because of my long drawn out service reports. And I definitely take care of my cars, always have.
Good luck!
The ONLY total engine failure I have eve envountered (guts came out side of engine) was on a Toyota.
Asian vehicles RUST RUST RUST...to me, that is not very reliable, I have ALWAYS selected a VW over a Honda every time because VWs have superiour rust protection from the factory.
I have concencesly decided that I would rather fix an occasional electrical problem rather than do bodywork to fix the RUST on Asian vehicles.
VWs use FAR higher quality components than the competition in the same pricerange. I choose QUALITY over the other choices any day.
(BTW: Do not confuse QUALITY and RELIABILITY... they are very different aspects.)
I do not see my vehicles as an "appliance" thus I do not rate them like a toaster or dishwasher. If it does not handle and resist rust for at least 12 years, I am not interested.
A true waste of money is getting yourself into a vehicle that you do not really like for years and years. Life is too short, choose what you like, not what we tell you to choose. (be yourself)
Your experience with the Golf is probably typical. Just keep in mind there are many drivers - an uncommonly many - that have "frequent" electrical problems rather than your "occasional" ones. The chances of getting a car like that scares people off, including myself.
You're right about quality, though you do pay for it. VW has that down, and it's a selling point that none of its direct competitors boasts.
As for fun... tuners, racers, and reviewers have all called the Mk IV Golf soft and heavy, and not fun. I'll have to give one a test drive though, because VW owners always claim otherwise. But they're the only ones.
Electrical problems....had to pull fuse #42 twice to fix the Premium VI glitch and the CD player went (good excuse to buy a better radio), and the hatch lock switch has its mood swings.
Rust...this past winter, sand blasted by rocks, there are some rust formed in the chips at the base of the windshield. I've seen my fair share of rusty VW's, but it's hard to compare a 2 year old car to a 10+ years old car.
I've had a K&N filter for the past 90,000 miles...my MAF sensor is still alive and kicking.
Though my bearings are toast...but not the front brakes. The rears...were too soft, that they coated the rear wheels with brake dust. ATE pads were too soft, so came TRW pads from the factory, which my car came with...47,000 miles replaced the pads (they still had decent life left...the new compound that lasted longer but still dusted like crazy) with Mintex.
With all the little problems, I'd still buy another VW, only as long as it's a TDI
If it were any other car I would have probably written it off already but its soo gorgeous and so much fun to drive that I cant stop thinking about it. Please let me know what you guys think.
Thanks
This, in itself, is not a problem...BUT if one does not carry oil with them and top it off BEFORE the pressure light comes on... there may be issues. Like any other engine without oil it will destroy itself.
If you keep oil in it, that engine will last at least 150K miles. Do not forget that it is based on the Diesel engin block.
ALso MAKE SURE you get both keyfobs. They are over $100 each to replace.
Whats that about O2 sensor? I have never heard anything specific about VW and O2 sensors. O2 sensors typacally last about 60K miles on ANY vehicle.
Perhaps you are thinking MAF sensor (MassAirFlow)
ALso, for ALL VWs DO NOT FORGET TO CLEAN THE SNOWSCREEN ANUALLY!!
thanks
The so-called "snowscreen" is actually a fine-mesh screen in the intake plenum behind the drivers-side headlight. The following how-to video helps explain how to get at it.
http://www.cincitdi.com/richc/snowscreen.html
I do not clean the snowscreen the way the video shows. The snowscreen is plastic (almost like pantihose) and easilly damaged by scraping. What I do is remove the snowscreen from the end of the tube and use the garden-hose sprayer to backflush the snowscreen with water-spray. I do this to ALL the VWs in the family annually.
A plugged snowscreen will cause loss of MPG and increased oil-consumpton due to excessive vaccuum on the PCV system.
I just bought a used 2004 Golf GLS and noticed that when it was low on fuel, there was a squeaky noise that came from under the car. Once I filled up, the noise was gone. Is this a normal thing for this car????
Thanks!
Is the 2004 Golf NCAP crash tested the current model sold in the U.S. or the the next gen. coming in 2006 CY (5dr)?
TIA.
I have had several japanese cars with no rust after 10 years.
I actually PAID to have rusproofing done to a brand-new Honda once. (The Honda dealer was selling this.) The agreement was that if I brought it in to be "inspected" once a year and have them put a stamp in a book, they would guarantee against rust for as long as I owned it.
YAA RIGHT! After 3 years, they changed their mind and announced that they were disbanding the inspectinos and warantee. The Honda ended up with huge rust holes in it anyway.
Volkswagen, Audi, MB are all undercoated and rustproofed AT THE FACTORY where it should happen. Their warantee EXPLICITLY says that adding anything else voids the warantee.
Dont take my word for it, look UNDER any VW (Pick any year...it does not matter) There is a very thick layer of rubber on the entire underside. Then, open the hood and look into the nooks & crannies, that rubber coating is EVERYWHERE. (Some of it is painted indicating that it is applied very early in the manufacturing stage.)
A VW is DESIGNED to resist corrosion, applying stuff after you purchase it is just a temporary band-aid.
Don't virtually all newer cars, including Hondas, have good rust protection, or are you convinced that German cars are built to withstand rust more than Japanese or domestic cars?
Also, I spend a lot of time looking at cars in parkinglots to see how they have withstood the test of Vermont winters... The VWs stand out as being almost rustproof.
Unless you live in an area where brake-rotors turn into scrap metal within 4 years, you are not in a harsh envronment.
I like the way Golfs and Jettas drive more than Civics and Accords, because I find them to have a more responsive and less generic feel. I also prefer VW exterior and interior styling. However, I don't have confidence in VW's reliability, which is why I own a Honda product rather than a VW. Although I live in MD, away from the ocean, I am sensitive to corrosion problems because I grew up in the Rust Belt. While rust used to be a problem for Hondas, the greater protection of the last two or three generations of Hondas has been sufficient so that rust is no longer an ownership concern in these parts. That said, your comments regarding VW compensate, to some degree, for the negative reputation VW has on reliability.
"Reliability" in itself is a very subjective term. My 1996 Golf has NEVER left me stranded, and the items I've replaced are basically wear & tear things that will eventually fail on any car. I have 117,600 miles and fully expect to reach 200,000 with no problems. And yes, I live in Wisconsin, another "Rust Belt" state. I've seen even newer Hondas rust, as new as 2001 models. It's the wheel wells in the rear where it starts. I DO see 20-year-old Hondas still running, so yeah, their mechanicals are great, but the bodies are shot.
I just bought a used 2002 VW with 30000 miles in it. The car is in great shape and in good condition. The car has 16 months of warranty left. As of now I am good with the manufacturer warranty for next 16 months or up to 50000 miles.
The VW dealer offered me a 4 year/48000 miles extended warranty for $1550. If I buy this, effectively I will be covered an additional 32 months or 28000 miles?
Do you think if spending $1550 is worth for coverage of 32 months or 28000 miles?
Thanks in advance you for your reply.
to expire (the drivetrain et al are for 10 yrs/100K) in
2003, I asked at the dealership re an extension.
At that time VW did not offer one. They told me to
consider one they suggested, but it was simply an
insurance arrangement, NOT with VW.
Daan
Now what I wonder is since I have 21 months/20000 miles (previously i said 16 months and that was wrong) in manufacturer warranty, why are they telling me that if I join the extended warranty, It will be effective immediately. So I will loose 21 months or 20000 miles.
I would put the money into my favorite savings means and will have the money to fix the thing if it does break. If it does NOT break, there will be a nice down-payment for the next car.
I have done this for many years and now pay CASH for my cars. The only case where I would take out a loan is if it is less intrest than what I am getting in the stock market.
Remember, you dont even OWN the car until it is paid for.
Money management 101!