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VW Golf

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Comments

  • kochunni69kochunni69 Member Posts: 3
    I completely agree with you.

    will it be a wise descion to shop for extended warranty just before the manufacturer warranty get expire. It might cost me more.

    I also heard that the used car warranty companies may bankrupt and vanish at no time.
  • vanaldervanalder Member Posts: 29
    I have stock"Goodrich Comp T/A HR4"
    (195/60R14 86H M+S) tires and want to rotate them.

    My VW manual says (for non-performance tires and ,therefore, without directional arrow) to use this
    pattern:

    LF to LR
    LR to LF
    RF to RR
    RR to RF

    My Chilton manual (for up through '02) shows the
    following:

    LR to LR
    LR to RF
    RF to RR
    FR to LF

    Any comments? Daan
  • billsbuddiebillsbuddie Member Posts: 41
    It is my understanding that radial tires "always" remain on the same side of the car. So you would rotate front to back and vice versa, but not left to right.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Due to advances in tire technology, staying on the same side of the car has not been a requirement for at leat 10 years. The only time you would want to stay on the same side of the vehicle would be if you have tires SPECIFICALLY MARKED as directional and must rotate in a specific way.
  • billsbuddiebillsbuddie Member Posts: 41
    Hey bpeebles, thanks for the "update". As you can tell I had no clue that this had changed. That probably tells you something else, I don't usually have a car long enough to worry about rotating tires.

    I have learned my lesson, I will not "share my knowledge" when I don't have any. I just checked on the Tire Rack website, they have a nice instructional manual which covers tire and wheel care. The different methods of tire rotation are all explained nicely, with pictures.

    Hey, it was a good day because I learned something.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    An often recommended tire rotation is 5,000 miles to keep from voiding the tire warantee. If you are keeping your cars less than 5,000 miles, then you do not need to change the oil either.

    In reality, many folks have the tires rotated at each oil change. This keeps the tire warantee intact. I had a Honda once that was soooo hard on tires that every set of tires EVER put on that thing was under the tire warantee...for 150,000 miles. All I really paid for was the 5,000 mile rotations to maintain the tire warantee.

    The 80,000 mile tires only went about 50,000 miles every time..so THEY paid for the tires.
  • billsbuddiebillsbuddie Member Posts: 41
    I have a little trouble with this post. Tire warranties deminish with wear. There is no way to rotate tires enough that they do not have wear. Rotation may cause them to wear more evenly, the warranty will still apply based upon the remaining tread, rotated or not.
  • billsbuddiebillsbuddie Member Posts: 41
    The dealer charges $35 to rotate tires. If you rotate them every 5000 miles, by the time you have driven 50,000 miles you have paid $350.00 for rotation. You can buy a new set for that much money.

    One other thought, on oil changes. The TDI only needs to have oil changed every 10,000 miles after the first 2 changes at 5,000 and 10,000, if you use the correct synthetic oil
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    Just a note that we have a great discussion Tires, tires, tires where issues like this are discussed in depth.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I never suggested that rotating the tires STOPS wear. But some tire warantees require PROOF that you rotated the tires based on thir requirements for them to HONOR the warantee. (Just like your ENGIINE warantee would not be honord if oil was not changed)

    If, after 50,000 miles, your 80,000 mile tires are beyond the legal limits of usability, then the tire manufacturer must REPLACE the tires. (Somtimes pro-rated.... again based on their written warantee)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I prefer to not PAY for tire rotations for exactly the reasons you suggest ($35 in some cases...OWCH!) I wonder if the $35 includes balancing too?

    Instead, a smart tire buyer would shop around for a tire-seller that offers FREE ROTATIONS as often as you desire to come into the shop. Some tire-sellers also offer free switchover to your winter tires. (already mounted on wheels)

    COSTCO offers such services while you shop. ( http://www.costco.com/ )

    Alternately, one can chose to rotate the tires themselves, it does not take a rocket-scientest to do it. Just some jacks and a torque-wrench.

    I DO pay to have my tires balanced at least annually. This is more to maintain a smooth, vibration-free ride... not for warantee.
  • yyzhouyyzhou Member Posts: 4
    I want to buy the 2005 golf 4door 2.0 auto.I went to the dealer and they gave me $17520,not including tax.Is it ok? and does anybody know why the rating for 2005 golf is faw below the 2004 golf? Thanks.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    I see that you have asked your question in the Prices Paid & Buying Experiences message board as well. That is the more appropriate place for this particular question and should be answered there.

    Thanks!
  • laub311laub311 Member Posts: 1
    I am being offered a used 96 Golf with 110000 miles on it. The private partie is selling it for 3000 dollars. It has a new clutch, tires, converter, engine and back tirerods. Only thing is, it makes a clicking noise when you put it in reverse. Is this a sign that the transmission is going? Im a little worried that if i buy this car something expensive could happen to it. Any personal information about similar experiences would be appreciated. thank you
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I would look elsewhere. The transmission on that car should last at least 200,000 miles. So if there are already strange noises coming from it, I would walk away. (I have a 1997 Jetta with the 2.0 Liter engine and 5 speed transmission and 135,000 miles, and the transmission is flawless).
  • hycalonhycalon Member Posts: 1
    I'm a student needing a car, and I'm looking at 93-96 golfs (94-95 preferred). I've never owned a car before, and don't know much about them, but I'm willing to learn and I'd like to try and take care of a lot myself. I'm wondering what common problems are with these years or if anyone has any warnings or other advice. Also, how many kms are considered to be too many, or does it really matter? Any idea on prices?

    Thanks!
  • germancarfreakgermancarfreak Member Posts: 4
    I am looking at 92 golf rallye's and I think theyre really cool, but I don't know about their performance and how easy(if at all) it is to get one fixed. if anybody knows anything about golf rallyes any information would be accepted.
  • alottamalarkeyalottamalarkey Member Posts: 1
    My problem may be unrelated, but I share sympathy. My wife's used 2.0 GL Mark IV occasionally will not start. Randomly, it seems. Hot, cold, damp, dry conditions do not seem to affect it. No indicator lights show a fault. When engine doesn't work: some times the engine cranks over but does not fire; sometimes it fires but then just stops a second or two later. Usually waiting an hour (sometimes overnight) is all that is required for it to start promptly again. Once the car starts, it runs fine; has never "crashed" while running. We have tried re-coding keys and replacing some device on the distributor. I wonder if there is some kind of sensor failure that is causing the fuel pump to stop, maybe thinking incorrectly that the engine is stalled. Any ideas? Thanx
  • gittisquaredgittisquared Member Posts: 4
    Hello everyone,
    This is my first time posting. I just bought a 2000 1.8T, manual golf with 70K in immaculate condition for $7800. 5 mins out of the dealer the check engine light went on! I bought it from a subaru dealer and they said that this was no a problem and that they would fix the car. My problem is i'm not sure the Subaru dealer is qualified to fix a VW, they are two very different cars. Does anyone have any advice as to where I should take my car for repair should i take it to VW or an independent import shop? I'm also not sure which gas and oil is best for the car, i want to keep it running for 200k! Any suggestions? BTW the car is a blast to drive. Thank you.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Premium fuel and VW 502.00 specification motor oils (all synthetic) is a good start. Make sure the car has had the following Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) items addressed:

    Window regulator malfunction causing power windows to fall in the door (nuisance issue)
    Replacement of defective ignition coil packs (this is a showstopper) to a model newer than the J-series coil packs

    If you can get the engine flushed and start using VW 502.00 synthetic oil
    (see this link: http://www.vw.com/SP/pdf/oilchart.pdf), you will avoid having the sludge problem as in the TSB for the 1998-2004 Passat.

    In a turbocharged automobile, it is VERY important to remember these two guidelines:

    1) ALWAYS change your oil at or before every 5000 mile interval. Do not go over the 5000 mile interval, otherwise - do not pass GO, do not collect $200 (you know the old Monopoly board game).

    2) Before shutting down your engine after a high speed (or highway speed) drive, let the car idle for a couple of minutes to allow the oil temperature to stabilize and properly cool the critical turbocharger bearing (as it spins down as well).

    As long as you meet those two guidelines, your engine should make it to the 200K mark (and beyond) with relative ease.
  • dellwelldellwell Member Posts: 27
    I just took ownership of the above car. So far so good BUT how do you get the back wiper to stop? I had to order a manual. Any help would be great. Thanks!
  • dellwelldellwell Member Posts: 27
    fixed!
  • wetwilliewetwillie Member Posts: 129
    You need to take this to a VW specific service shop, preferably an independent that has the VAG software that can isolate the source of the CEL. It could be something simple that can be reset with the interogation tool or it could be more serious(read:expensive) such as an MAF sensor (mass airflow). Warranty for some parts with a high failure rate - such as window regulators and MAF's has been extended by VW - unfortunately extended to 70K in most cases. There are recalls out there for this model, a VW specific repair shop can indentify these.

    Castrol makes a great synthetic oil for this engine, its 5-50w - perfect for a turbo. You MUST use synthetic oil with this engine! There is a VW oil spec for this engine you can use as a baseline.

    Med. grade gas is best (90 octane) as any lower will cause the engine management computer to retard the timing (knock sensor) to prevent pinging. This, of course, decreases performance.

    You're right - the car is a blast to drive! :P
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I use Castrol Syntec 5w-40 for my 2003 Wolfsburg and my wife's 2003 Jetta. Unfortunately, you have to either get it at the dealer, or special order the oil. There are other synthetics on the VW 502.00 spec that you can get at the local auto parts store - i.e. Valvoline's 5w-40 synthetic can be purchased at the Auto Zone.

    Here's the VW 502.00 spec for the oil:

    http://www.vw.com/SP/pdf/oilchart.pdf
  • wetwilliewetwillie Member Posts: 129
    The Castrol Syntec 5w-50 I'm referring to is readily available. Checker, for example, has it on sale now for $3.99. This oil exceeds the VW 502.00 spec. The 50 weight extension on the high (viscosity) end offers even better protection for hot-running turbos.
    This multi-weight (5w-50) was non-existant when the VW 502.00 spec was published.
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    It's a special oil designed specifically to VW standards. Here is what Castrol says on their website about it:

    SAE 5W-40:
    Engineered specifically to meet the Volkswagen engine warranty requirements, exceeding VW 502 00 and 505 00. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Porsche approved and also exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4, MB 229.3, MB 229.1, BMW LL-98. Meets the engine protection requirements of Volvo, BMW, Mercedes Benz and ILSAC GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.

    On the other hand, 5-50 does NOT satisfy these requirements:

    SAE 5W-50:
    Provides the widest range of protection available. SAE 5W-50 delivers exceptional cold temperature pumpability for rapid oil circulation at start-up and provides a thick oil film for ultimate wear protection. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SM, SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4, and meets the engine protection requirements of GM4718M ILSAC GF-4 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.

    There is no mention of VW. The second sentence is just tricky wording. While VW recommends SF oil, it has to also satisfy their spec.

    5-40 Syntec is available at my VW dealer for $4.00 per quart.
  • jbj02vwjbj02vw Member Posts: 2
    I think that all VW products are rather high considering that they were made in mexico and brazil. But do not worry the quality is still quite high, actually a lot higher than an american car and a little better than japanese makes. As far as the cost of the 2005 being less than 2004 it is probably because VW will release their new golf soon and are trying to move the older models out of their showrooms. Also the cost greatly depends upon the features that are available for that particular car. The features by the way are numerous regardless of 2004, or 2005.
  • jbj02vwjbj02vw Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1969 beetle and a newer golf. My golf seems like a nice car but some electrical issues have me thinking about the longevity of the golf. too many fancy gadgets? Every damn thing is electrical. I could not find a golf with manual window cranks. My wife bought a luxury Nissan Maxima and it had, key word, had electric windows elctric door locks electric....etc....etc...Eventually (2years) everything wore out and had to be replaced. the cost??? Too much had to get rid of the car. It was not holding up anymore anyway. Can someone please tell me if they have had troubles with their 2002 golfs? The old beetles seemed to outlast their owners. Why cant these new VW's deliver that kind of reliability? Or can they?
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    You said, with respect to a 1.8T:

    1) ALWAYS change your oil at or before every 5000 mile interval. Do not go over the 5000 mile interval, otherwise - do not pass GO, do not collect $200 (you know the old Monopoly board game).

    I agree on the 5,000 mile strict intervals for the turbo 1.8 - this is true even though this model requires full synthetic oil (the 5-40). Extended oil changes are apparently not permitted due to the turbo. This is quite different from the philosophy of extended oil changes (using synthetic) on other European cars like BMW's, MINI's, Saabs, and Mercedes, and flies against the popular opinion of synthetic oil advocates. I guess life inside a 1.8t is hard....

    My normally aspirated 2.0 Golf surprisingly also calls for VW spec 5-40 oil, which is de facto full synthetic. While it calls for 10,000 mile oil change intervals after the first oil change at 5,000 miles, this is also on the conservative side; but then again, the VW doesn't have an oil life calculator as on the other Euro cars.

    You also said:

    Before shutting down your engine after a high speed (or highway speed) drive, let the car idle for a couple of minutes to allow the oil temperature to stabilize and properly cool the critical turbocharger bearing (as it spins down as well).

    I think if you have at least a block to get home from the freeway offramp, the issue takes care of itself.

    I'd add that "cold rev'ing" (racing the engine when cold) is probably Not A Good Idea with this or any turbo....
  • wetwilliewetwillie Member Posts: 129
    Stick with it if it calms you, but 5W-50 is most definitely superior for turbocharged engines.

    "On the other hand, 5-50 does NOT satisfy these requirements"

    Not true, it in fact exceeds the requirements - the API SM rating supercedes previous ratings i.e., SL, SJ, SH, all the way to SF- VW requirements. It supercedes previous ratings precisely because it not only meets those requirements, but exceeds them. Whether VW is specifcally mentioned in their sales blurb is immaterial - the SM rating says it all. No problem using a lower rated 5w-40 oil on the 2.0, but for the turbo I would want to use the best oil you can get your hands on.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Besides, if the car is still under warranty and there is an oil-related failure, the fact that 5w-50 was used gives VW the ammunition (and justification in their eyes) to deny the warranty claim. I prefer to err on the side of caution (or at least until the warranty expires).

    :shades:
  • wetwilliewetwillie Member Posts: 129
    You're right, if it's under warranty I would stick to their list (at least until it's updated).
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    You said, regarding usng 5-50 Syntec instead of their 5-40:

    Not true, it in fact exceeds the requirements - the API SM rating supercedes previous ratings i.e., SL, SJ, SH, all the way to SF- VW requirements. It supercedes previous ratings precisely because it not only meets those requirements, but exceeds them. Whether VW is specifcally mentioned in their sales blurb is immaterial - the SM rating says it all. No problem using a lower rated 5w-40 oil on the 2.0, but for the turbo I would want to use the best oil you can get your hands on.

    API is the American Petroleum Institute, controlled by the oil companies and oil refiners (Chevron etc. for oil companies, Pennzoil etc. for refiners). They set the most commonly recognized ratings for motor oils, the ones like SF, SG, and the current SL. They also trademark the "Starburst" energy efficient symbol commonly seen on oil bottles.

    Most American oils are also rated by IILSAC, the "International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee", which is composed of major North American automotive manufacturers and forms the car manufacturer counterpart to API (which represents oil companies).

    The two fight over oil requirements and grades of oil all the time. The US manufacturers don't want the consumer to be confused, so they try to specify, for warranty requirements, commonly available oils, which means constant compromises with API over oil quality. The API website indicates that API accepted the current manufacturers ILSAC GF-4 requirements and thus SL oil. They had previously resisted the upgrade to GF-4/SL because it requires a higher grade of basic oil stock, and many API members complained it would make the oil too expensive and/or drive independents, still using the crudest of crude base stocks, out of business. In 1999 Ford commissioned Conoco (I believe) to come up with a 5-20 oil which far surpassed the SG oils of its time. It took until 2005 for the industry to come closer to the specs of 5-20 oil with the new SL grade. That is troglodytic upgrade schedule.

    On the API website, the following manufacturers are noted as accepting, and endorsing, the new API SL oil grade: Daimler Chrysler; Toyota; Nissan: Mazda; Isuzu; Ford; Honda, GM, Suzuki; and Subaru.

    Conspicuously absent from the list are VW, Mercedes, and BMW. European manufacturers have their own ACEA industry organization and lack the Magnusson-Moss Act and can further specify their own standards for oils. Besides the ACEA 2, 3, 4 etc. requirements, Mercedes and VW each publish their own spec. SL oils (and ACEA graded oils) do not necessarily satisfy this spec. Ironically the converse is true; 5-40 can't satisfy satisy this spec because it is not an energy saving oil per se.

    Syntec 5-50 may or may not satisfy the VW 502 spec. It doesn't satisfy the viscoscity range requirement. According to tests, VW spec 5-40 oil is closer to a 30 weight than a 40 weight; which is also why the Mobil 1 SUV 5-40 oil does not satisfy the spec.

    The only thing you can trust is the oil refiner's website and bottles. The refiners want bragging rights and will include every obscure spec that they satisfy. Once again, SL oil is the lowest common denominator, and some high performance oils like VW 5-40 don't qualify due to their viscoscity (also due to anti wear additives - VW's have higher grade, longer life catalytic converters that can withstand heavier concentrations of anti wear additives, which is why my 2.0 manual specifies SF oil, which is actually an older grade than SL).

    This balkanization of oil standards has gone on for years. I remember reading some bottles saying the oil satisfies "Japanese valve train wear requirements." Good old 99 cent SF oil wasn't good enough even back then.

    My 2.0 manual says, if 5-40 isn't available, 5-30 can be used. The 1.8T has no such escape clause. There are known sludging problems with 1.8T's, which is why other posters caution using both the approved VW spec oil, and changing promptly at the required 5,000 mile interval. Since VW only charges $4.00 a bottle for the absolutely, positively approved and tested (by the refiner) oil, why use Syntec 5-50? It just isn't the same oil. I haven't found 5-40 Syntec at Kragens yet, but if you want to do it yourself, they carry Valvoline 5-40. Most Jiffy Lubes should have 5-40 from Pennzoil or Quaker State.

    Using the wrong grade of oil with a highly engineered engine like those in European cars is asking for trouble. Even Camry's had sludge problems, and 2.7 Chrysler engines. It is becoming more of a problem across the industry, and it pays to be careful with engine lubricants and fluids. I have come to the conclusion that the car manufacturers know best, use what they recommend.

    These are the extended specs satisfied by 5-40 Syntec: Porsche approved and also exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4, MB 229.3, MB 229.1, BMW LL-98. Meets the engine protection requirements of Volvo, BMW, Mercedes Benz and ILSAC GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.
  • newfoundmenewfoundme Member Posts: 3
    what is the component on top of the battery in 2001 Volkswagen Golf
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    On top of the battery on ALL of the MKIV VWs is the power-distribution. Basically, the '+' side of the battery is broken up (distributed) to various wires. There may also be some fuseable links (fuses) included in the Power Distribution.
  • newfoundmenewfoundme Member Posts: 3
    is that power distributor expensive and hard to replace?
  • mackoronimackoroni Member Posts: 1
    :confuse:
    I'm thinking of buying a 2005 Golf (either that or a 2005 Corolla LE - both have are affordable cars with side impact airbags).

    I've always liked and wanted a Golf, but I'm worried about all the things I keep hearing on their unreliability. Have these issues been significantly worked out for the 2005 model? I also read the latest issue of CR, they didn't give it a reliability check even though the 2005 model got excellent ratings in all but electrical...I'm confused and don't know anyone who owns either the corolla or golf that I can hit up for info and impressions.

    Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I dont really understand why you would want to be replacing the power-distribution. It has no moving parts, cannot wear out and is just a bunch of wires. Please explain why you are asking?

    If you REALLY need one, make some phone calls to salvage-yards... since it CANNOT wear out, any used one will be just as good as a new one.

    I just dont understand how in the world your power distribution unit could be a problem.
  • fluffheadfluffhead Member Posts: 2
    hello everyone,

    i was pulled over today and informed that both of my brake lights are out - just the bar on the back window is functional. does anyone have any clue why both would be out at the same time? clearly there is something going on with the electrical system. is there possibly a blown fuse? i just changed a front headlight myself, did i screw something up?

    thanks!
    daniela :sick:
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    start replacing bulbs. The headlight is just a coincidence, I think.
  • fluffheadfluffhead Member Posts: 2
    could anyone recommend a fuse map? my googling is not producing any results. many thanks.
  • faypitfaypit Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Golf with almost 95k (mostly highway) miles on it. The check engine light keeps coming on even though my mechanic has changed the o2 senser after the computer diagnostic said that was the issue. Also did a full tune-up, new plugs, new fuel filter...

    He has done several smoke tests, but can't find a leak. Any suggestions? I hate dealer service shops...
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    You might want to ask in the Maintenance & Repair board - "Check Engine" light discussion
  • aqua_uomoaqua_uomo Member Posts: 1
    :confuse:
    Hello all,

    I have a basic CL and installed an alarm system and power locks on it myself.
    I want to get a spare key and was thinking of getting a flip up key with remote.

    I was wondering if there is a way to have the VW remote "learn" the existing remote that I have (non VW!)

    thanks in advance
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    You mean GL?
  • h20polo8h20polo8 Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: my 02 golf is making whining noises in and out of turns. I notice the steering isn't that responsive either ( I have to turn the wheel more than before). I put wider tires on my golf to increase handling and before I hardly had to turn the wheel and I changed the direction. My suspicion is something to do with steering fluid but I have no clue how to access that. Other vw owners have told me that only the dealership can do it. Anyone have any comments? Suggestions?
  • h20polo8h20polo8 Member Posts: 2
    First off don't go by CR ratings because especially on VW golf and jetta they don't stay current...even more so on the Golf. Try checking out a few more sites on the internet.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You have been mis-informed. The Power-steering fluid is in a resivour just like on all other vehicles with power-steering. Read the owners manual.

    Since this probem started AFTER you installed wider tires, you need to consider that it is the tires that is the problem. Have you tried putting on tires of the correct size to see if that corrects the problem?

    Also, you can lift the front tires off the grond and try to steer lock-to-lock. If it is not freed-up then, there is a serious issue with your suspension components.
  • golfiegolfie Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 vw golf gl and had the mass air sensor replaced about 2 years ago. 1) Now that the check engine light is back on one of its frequent visits, it is being suggested that the mass air sensor may need replacing again because it could be bad again. how is this even possible? do you need to rebuild the car every 2 years, is this a faulty part that deserves recall, or is the mechanic trying to empty my bank account?

    2) anyone have problems with the air intake? (replacement, causes, etc.?)

    3) do your hoses (smaller ones that cost about $40) really need to be replaced to make it run better if they are a little worn, but taped up properly where worn slightly?

    4) leaks in thermostat control problems?

    5) bad vacuum lines?

    6) evap system problems or replacement?

    If anyone has any helpful information to offer on any of the above items, I would be very interested in hearing about similar problems or legitimacy of such problems. as much the golf is fun to drive, the mechanics (especially the dealers) are going to have me out on the street starving and still having mechanical problems. also, any recommendations for good vw golf 98 mechanics would be appreciated, as most mechanics are hesitant to work on "european" cars and especially this model and year. look forward to some helpful responses. thanks in advance.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The MAF sensor is a known weakness. VW has an "unpublished" recall on the MAF for some vehicles.

    2) An air-intake does not wear out. It is just some plastic plumbing.

    3) Warn hoses do not make it run any worse... but if your hoses have tape on them -- someone has been doing some rinky-dink maintainance. The question should be "Why are the hoses wearing?" A properly plumbed engine should have no hoses rubbing on anything that can wear at it. I have NEVER EVER had warn hoses on any VW (have owned at least 7 VWs and the family has 3 VWs currently)

    4) Thermostat housing has never leaked on my VWs, just reseal it with approprate gasket cement.

    5) The vacuum lines on VWs are SOLID PLASTIC, they do not wear out. The rubber ends can be easilly replaced for a few dollars to do ALL of them. (Purchase a 2-foot length of rubber hose and cut it into 1-inch peices)

    6) Evap system -- Again I have NEVER EVER had issues thru 7 VWs since 1976.
    Are you sure that the leaky vacuum lines are not the same issue?
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