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Comments
Dont forget, if you have not actually FIXED the problem(s), the codes will come right back. (you cant FIX you car by eraseing codes ;-)
How many miles do you have on the car? If it is a high-mileage model, I would have the following items checked out:
Oxygen sensors (your car has two of them)
Ignition wires
Ignition cap/rotor
Spark plugs
fuel injectors checked and/or cleaned
Is your car running smooth or rough?
My daughter has a CEL on and I am looking forward to diagnosing for her when my VAG COM arrives.
JL
I was wondering if you were able to fix the problem ?
If you did, please let me know. Greatly appreciated.
Mathieu.
The inner-workings of the doors have at least 3 micro-switches in each door. Just getting to the mecanism requires tearing the doors apart. Before that, one would have to hook the car up to a computer to diagnose WHICH door is causing the problem. I beleive even the rear hatch can make that light go on too.
Take it to the dealer and let the factory-warantee deal with it.
Wowbagger
Thanks,
Kevins1955.
Of course, the symptoms you describe could be caused by may other things too...
mkf
Voltage across battery (as measured with accurate digital voltmeter) should be at least 13.8V for battery to accept diecent charge. One of the WORST things to do to a lead-acid battery is to allow it to be in a less-than- fully-charged state for any length of time. (sulfide build-up on the plates) If you are not seeing this at least 13.8V, expect battery life to be less than optomal.
Note: I have seen a bad battery can "fool" some charging systems into cutting the voltage back before a full charge is obtained.
Also, the same person said I should do the first oil change at 1,000 miles to remove any metal shavings or contamination during the engine break-in period. He also said to use a high-quality aftermarket oil filter.
I do my own oil changes, and I want to take good care of this car. Any advice on these matters is greatly appreciated!
It started to smell dank, thats how I noticed something was going on.
Please let me know what you find out .
Thanks ,
sunflowerma4
"VW has closed any orders on Golf TDI's and they are not giving me any idea when the production on these will start! I have been back and forth with them to find out the status on your vehicle and they are telling me that they are not producing them as of yet! I know you must be frustrated hearing this as I am, but I will also offer any of the Jetta TDI's that we have coming in, in the next few weeks. let me know how to proceed on this and again please understand that this was not our doing. Let me know?"
I went through this very same thing... I put a down-payment and waited for months. I was told several times that my car was "on the boat", "on the docks" or "on a truck"....but alas... it never arrived.
I ended up calling another dealership and asked them to get on their computer and try to locate a car that meets my requirements at another dealership.... they called me back 20 minutes later and said they could have it on the lot by wednsday. Needless to say, I got my down-payment back from the orighinal dealer and picked up my car from the dealership that was willing to work a bit to locate a car that met my requirements.
Geoff
Your problem is likely to be related to your sunroof drain holes not working properly. These are located near the front of the sunroof housing. They exit just below the front door top hinge in a rubber grommet with a ridiculous crimped end. Cut off the end with a pair of scissors so they can flow freely. I bet a load of water flows out. When these are blocked the water builds up in the sunroof housing and leaks through between the sunroof surround and the cars bodyshell, then it flows either down the front door pillar and into the front passenger wells, or back into the rear, depending on the slope on which you park your car. A telltale sign also is if you feel the headlining just above the door, towards the front or rear, it will feel damp. This is the confirmation of the problem. Once you get it draining properly your problems will be over.
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled?gvc=2
There are mechanics there who can give better advice than I can.
I'll just have to see whether this fixes the problem or not, but we've had a lot of rain over the last few days and there's a lot of standing water on the road and up to now it seems to be keeping dry.
My 2005 Golf TDI with only 12000 miles on it is at the dealership as we speak for the same problem. So much water in mine that it activated (shorted out) the airbag indicator light. I have read other forums about this same problem and some dealerships are covering the costs for new carpet or cleaning of the carpet because of mold and mildew due to that it is a manufacturers defect. Yet other dealers including mine are insisting that it is not under warranty for clogged drains causing any flood damage. So far they are unable to find the leak in mine. It is going on two weeks at the dealership.
It seems to me --either way-- they should cover it.
I have a Mk 4 (2003)with a very wet floor drivers side front and rear (right hand drive). Had a very expensive quote at the dealers so am keen to find out what is causing the leak. Interested to read of the pollen filter seal and the sunroof drain holes - I havent got a sunroof but will take a look at the pollen filter. Any more suggestions apart from buying some flippers?
Secondly, my cruise control is on the fritz. It would seem to be a problem in the innards of the c.c. stock on the left side of the steering wheel For a long time I was able to wiggle the switch and that would seem to engage it. With time it began to drop out of cruise sporadically, until eventually where now it just doesn't work at all. Any idea how involved/expensive it is to replace the switch in the stock?
Thanks in advance for whatever light you can shed on this subject for me.