Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

VW Golf

1356730

Comments

  • cennis1cennis1 Member Posts: 31
    Had some weird door noises when I first got my car (00 GTI GLX). Was really driving me crazy, thinking I should have bought an Accord after all. Took it back to the dealer (Tynan's in Denver) and explained the problem, certain they would say it was all in my head. They fixed the problem and I have never had it happen again. I don't recall exactly what they said the problem was, something about the trim being misaligned. I'm not really sure, but there is definitely a fix for the problem.
  • adg44adg44 Member Posts: 385
    The dealer just told me that they actually adjust the door so it is to tight to move against the rubber while in motion. I'll have them do that tomorrow when I take it in.
  • wonderwallwonderwall Member Posts: 126
    volkswagen has corporate standards rather than quality standards varying from plant to plant. ever noticed that american hondas and toyotas are just as sound as their japanese built counterparts? a friend of mine has a brazilian made 1993 volkswagen fox and it has proven to be utterly bulletproof.
  • lordbasslordbass Member Posts: 3
    I'm not quite sold on the idea that US-built Japanese marque cars are as tight as Japan-built models. Exhibit #1: My father's '98 Toyota Tercel CE. It's a very nice example and one of the very last imported from Japan. It is also much tighter, more solid feeling, and totally bulletproof than the US-built Japanese marque cars in my family, especially for a throwaway econobox like the Tercel. My examples include Mom's '00 Honda Civic LX and my squeaky but absolutely blazing '93 Nissan Sentra SE-R, both US-built. Even my brother's Japan-built '91 Honda Civic 4WD Wagon has a tighter feel than my SE-R or Mom's Civic. The differences are somewhat minor, but noticeable. Given the choice, I'd take a Japan-built model over a US-built Japanese car.

    As for Volkswagens, I too have been concerned about the quality of new Golfs from Brazil. I see many a Brazilian-built Fox, though, still roaming the streets, often flogged at top tilt by MLB backwards-cap wearing types. The Fox's general quality is proven by how many are still around in usable condition. I wouldn't buy the first Golf out of Brazil, but maybe a late first-year model would be ok.

    One question: 2001 Golf production for North America is supposed to have moved to Brazil. I've seen conflicting stories, though, about the TDI. Where will NA 2001 Golf TDI's come from? I might buy myself one next year.

    There are exceptions to every car story. This post is not intended to start a flame war, incite riots, or further urban decay. There's always someone out there ready to pounce with a 250,000 mile Chevy Cavalier or a lemon Honda Accord or a VW that's not fun to drive. Well, maybe not that last part. :)

    Thanks for reading this far.
  • adg44adg44 Member Posts: 385
    I've noticed that sometimes when I go to shift from 1st to 2nd, the shifter sometimes sticks in first gear. It doens't happen all the time, and it just requires a bit of force to pull it out. I thought that I didn't have the clutch depressed enough, but I don't think that's the case. Today just 10 minutes ago, I was slowing down from 40 MPH. I braked to about 15 MPH until I put the clutch in and moved the shifter into first, with the clutch fully depressed. I heard a very weird noise, like the gear was going rubbing, it was a grinding sound. Has anyone else heard of a problem like this? Do I need more clutch fluid of something? Does this happen to anyone else?

    Thanks

    - Anthony
  • adg44adg44 Member Posts: 385
    Here is the TSB I found at VWs tech site. http://tech.vw.com

    http://tech.vw.com/pdf/57-95-08.pdf
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    I don't know about the sticking in gear part, but you should NEVER try to downshift into first gear going that fast! You should be either at a complete stop or barely rolling when trying to engage first gear. Otherwise, you will encounter resistance and/or grinding. My VW usually refuses to engage first unless completely stopped and my Hyundai either refuses to go into gear or emits a grinding noise. It also happens on my Mom's Accord. Manual trannys just aren't designed to be downshifted into first unless you are stopped. Ever notice how automatics don't downshift into first until the car is almost to a complete stop? The same reasoning applies. Take it easy on your tranny and you won't encounter those noises.
  • cptmcfcptmcf Member Posts: 7
    I am going to be trading in my Golf Sport on a larger vehicle...I am in San Antonio but would ship the car....I am only asking trade-in for it or I will give it to the dealer...car has 38,000 miles... email mfriedman@satx.rr.com
  • mnnmnn Member Posts: 31
    adg44: I agree with post #110. The same thing happened to the Civic I used to drive, I guess it has something to do with the engine speed?? Anyway, with my VW, I notice that unless I am doing something like 10km/hr, the 1st won't engage; it is a normal, so don't worry. It may not be "proper" driving, but why don't you try "coasting" the car (put in neutral) for the last 10 feet or so before coming to a complete stop? I always downshift to 3rd gear, then brake harder and coast for the last 10 feet. That way the car stops pretty smoothly.
  • lordbasslordbass Member Posts: 3
    I'll answer my own question asked in #107. In regard to country of manufacture for 2001 Golf TDIs, the answer is: same as any other 2001 Golf, they're made in Brazil. I scoured two Golfs this past weekend at the New England Auto Show. Both were GLS. One green TDI, on Indigo Blue 2.0l. The Indigo Blue is stunning in person, under the lights. A gorgeous color. Both were built in Brazil in July, and looked and felt just as well screwed together as any other fourth-gen unit I've come across.

    Here's another question: Has anyone bought/ordered/seen/read about availability of the factory sunroof on GL Golfs? It's part of the luxury package on GLS models, and supposedly not on offer for the GL. A few people posted on the TDI Club (www.tdiclub.com) that they had a new Golf GL with a factory sunroof. Any ideas?
  • adg44adg44 Member Posts: 385
    I almost always keep it in second when I brake, I don't like to wear my EBC brakes so I don't use them too much. If I just start coasting far enough back, the braking is very smooth with a light consistent pressure on the brake pedal. I don't put it into first anymore unles I am under 5 MPH. I only really put it into first at about 15 MPH that time only, that's why I didn't know. Thanks for all the help...


    Here is a question though:

    Sometimes if I'm in gear and I'm kinda off the gas and I give it some gas, you can hear a "click" sound coming from the clutch/floorboard area. Does anyone else notice that? It don't happen too often, and it's fairly quiet. I just noticed that over the weekend, so I don't how long it's been doing it.

    Thanks so much
  • CooperCooper Member Posts: 55
    I read once that downshifting to slow a car is appropriate for the track, but unnecessary for the routine driving. The point they were making was that brake pads are a lot easier and cheaper to replace than a clutch.
  • mnnmnn Member Posts: 31
    adg44: Talking of the clicking noise, I have noticed the same thing every now and then. I suspect it is only the clutch lever or the foot piece attached to it that is making the noise. I tried pushing and shaking the clutch with my hand and it seems that when you depress the clutch, sometimes it gives a subtle "springy-clicking" sound (like operating a lever attached to a spring). When I shake the foot piece, you will notice more since that piece of plastic is not "soldered" onto the lever, and it is "movable" (though only a little bit). I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure that if I can repeat that noise with the engine off, then it is not a mechanical problem. I don't know anything about the connection of the clutch, but does anyone know if something needs to be done? like putting grease on some hindge??
  • adg44adg44 Member Posts: 385
    I'm pretty sure it's coming from the clutch too. It only happens when I coast and the gear isn't being pushed by the engine, and then I give it more gas. Maybe it's the sound of the clutch at work.

    As for the compression braking, changing pads is really easy, I put EBC GreenStuff brake pads all around. I even changed the front rotors. I've decided that since I wouldn't mind getting a semi-racing clutch that I'll continue to compression brake most of the time. Also, I don't like to dirty my wheels, so I don't use the brakes too much. If you stop far enough back, you can just coast to a stop.

    Thanks for all the help

    adg44@earthlink.net
  • alpanianalpanian Member Posts: 9
    Was in Europe this summer and ha the chance to drive one of their V5 Golfs (5 cylinders). Amazing!!! is all I could say. What is Volkswagens marketing reason for not selling those here? Is 5 cyl. too strange and foreign for American consumers? I heard those engines were more reliable than the VR6 and similarly powerful. I would buy one in a flash if I could get one here.

    Alp
  • CooperCooper Member Posts: 55
    I think Audi used to sell a 5-cylinder here a number of years ago.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Yes, Audi did used to sell a 5-cylinder vehicle here back in the 1980s. Acura did as well from 1992-96 called the Vigor.
  • vwguildvwguild Member Posts: 1,620
    Check out the New V5 Beetle @ VWVORTEX.COM
  • wonderwallwonderwall Member Posts: 126
    the audi and acura five cylinders were inline fives. the V5 in current euro VWs is basically the VR6 with a cylinder chopped off.

    also, the volvo 850,s70,& the new s60 all have inline fives.
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    Drivetrain parts (engine, clutch, transmission) cost a whole lot more to fix than brakes. I'm not saying that you should never downshift, just that using engine braking at every traffic light is silly.

    Jared
  • vickypvickyp Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I'd like to hear from people that drive a 95 VW Golf (four door, 5 speed), with at least 45,000 miles on it. I'm considering buying a 95 Golf and want to get some idea of gas mileage, electrical problems, reliable starting in the winter, etc. Like a lot of people, I'm comparing used Honda Civics to VW Golfs, and want to know which will prove less costly to maintain. Thanks for your help in advance!
  • wonderwallwonderwall Member Posts: 126
    1995 was supposedly a bad year for VW reliability (although i know someone with a 1995 jetta with close to 100,000 miles who has had zero problems with it). vw maintanence is costly, and you need to find a good mechanic who knows the ins and outs of volkswagens. i've found a shop locally that specializes in water cooled vws who is extremely honest and reasonable.

    the golf is a heckuva lot more fun to drive than the honda and much more distinctive style-wise. it's a good bit safer and more solidly constucted. if i were you, i would take a gamble and buy the golf. make sure that you have a mechanic check it out.

    gas mileage in a golf will run in the high 20s around town and low 30s on the highway. if you have problems, most likely they will be electrical.
  • vwguildvwguild Member Posts: 1,620
    A MIATA????????
  • baroberbarober Member Posts: 2
    Dear All,
    I have sent my Golf III Diesel (100,000 km) for routine check and fluid change at a local WV authorised garage. They give me back the vehicle saying that everything was in order. They just
    changed the motor oil and tightened the distribution belt (aged of only 20,000 km).

    After 20 kilometers on a highway, I heard a freak sound and the car stopped. First diagnosis: the motor went out of phase; however, 5 days later and with the engine completely open, the
    same WV garage still can not tell me the cause of the breakdown. According to them, everything is still in order (belt, pulleys, and so on), except that the car went out of phase (alone?). I am afraid that they are not honest to me and trying to hide something. I have also heard that this is a common problem with the golf III serie. Does anyone have an opinion or a suggestion for me ? Can you suggest some published article about this
    problem ?

    Thanks in advance.
  • yoeddyyoeddy Member Posts: 46
    Hi,

    My friend just bought a '95 Golf GL but it didn't come with any user manuals. Do you know what type of motor oil this vehicle uses? I want to guess 5w30.

    Thanks for your input.
  • fisher6fisher6 Member Posts: 1
    i have looking seriously at the new vw tdi in the golf body style until i encountered the dreaded carboning problem with these engines in the midwestern u.s.. the problem is that our fuels are high in sulfur and after 15,000 to 30,000 miles depending on the style of driving. (lower reving drivers goes fewer miles when this occurs.) the exhaust gas recovery system builds up with carbon from the sulfur and soon plugs up the system until fuel mileage and driveablity problems occur until the engine literally stops. the real problem occurs when the car is out of its poor 2 year/24,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty. this problem is not covered by the emissions warranty. if it is out of warranty, the cost is about $800 to repair. After market service agreements do not cover emissions so you are out in the cold. VW does not seem to be too cooperative do anything about it. in germany, low sulfur fuels are required and on the west coast of the U.S., the fuels are are low sulfur. the problem occurs in the small tube feeds exhaust gas back into the engine and sulfur produces carbon ash when burned and with low reving drivers, the back pressure produced is lower and therefore more material (carbon) builds up in these small tubes and over time will completely block the system. I learned all this from the vw service manager. the salesman with whom i have been dealing with just discovered this with his own 2000 golf tdi with 20,000 miles on it and is still under warranty, but plans on selling it as soon as it repaired. the car of choice is the 1.8 turbo. its been the most reliable and lower gas mileage is ok because $800 will buy you a lot of gas every year or so if you have to fix the egr system in the diesel. Now i know why Mercedes Benz has stopped selling diesels in this country along with the fact that you cant sell them in the special low emission states in the Northeast and Califormia. I have not seen any postings yet on this problem and it should noted asap. the older bodied tdi did not have this problem since emissions for diesels has been greatly reduced with the 2000 model year in the U.S.
  • dasteph94dasteph94 Member Posts: 20
    Thanks a lot for the info--we were considering
    buying one but not after reading your post--
    plus, VW of America makes getting on like
    pulling teeth--dealers want a huge deposit
    and when pressed say they can't guarantee
    getting you one even after SIX months of
    keeping your $500!!!!
  • mnnmnn Member Posts: 31
    Recently I realised that when I brake, the rear brakes give a funny "iik" sound, almost like the kind of noise you would hear on a bicycle when you press the front brake. I wasn't driving that fast, only about maybe 40km/hr when I brake, and the noise only happen when the car is almost at a standstill, and yes, there is a "jerking movement" (the one that you first dive forward and then flip backwards, but not in an emergency situation, nor is it at high speed, just very subtle) that comes with the noise.

    My car has only 10000km on it so I very much doubt that the pad has worn off. Any insight anyone? Thanks.
  • AaronAaron Member Posts: 11
    Hi there fellow Golfers.. Much quieter over here than in the Jetta forum. Went to a VW dealer last weekend to test drive a Golf. Wanted a 1.8T with manual transmission. Apparently that is a hard combination to find. The Jetta/Golf ratio seems to be 5:1, which is confirmed by an inventory search of dealer.vw.com. Drat! Whenever VW comes out with something I might want to buy, you cannot get it. I had an 87 Jetta once, and stayed away from the Golf/Jetta because I thought the 2.0L was not a very good engine when compared to other "economy" cars. Can anyone tell me what you get for paying ~1300 more for a Jetta? It seems to me you are losing because you dont get the practical carrying space the Golf has. Why the price disparity when the Golf and Jetta are largely identical save a few body panels? Anyway, the Golf seems somewhat worth the extra you pay compared to a Civic/Corolla/Sentra given the better engine and the fact that it is one of the only hatchbacks on the market right now. If there were a 4 door Civic hatch sold here in the US, I would be giving that a serious consideration....
  • catherine9catherine9 Member Posts: 31
    My dealer will sell me a 2000 automatic 1.8 Golf with the sunroof, monsoon sound system, cold weather package, and chrome tires for $19,400. Do you think the price is appropriate? I really didn't want all the options, but there were no other 2000's available at this dealership.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Don't know how close you are to Maryland, but there is a dealership in Aberdeen here called Cook Motors. They have at least 2 5-speed 1.8T Golfs, at least they did last weekend.

    With the price you asked for, Catherine, I think it's pretty good. I test drove a 2.0 Golf with automatic, Monsoon, and Cold Weather Pkg. that stickered for $19,400. The dealer told me it would be pretty close to sticker price because of their popularity. I told him $500 over invoice or goodbye. It was goodbye.
  • AaronAaron Member Posts: 11
    I live in the Chicago area. The dealer that gets all the cars in this area is the Autobarn. I dont know why VW has given them two more franchises in the last 2 years in addition to the one they had in Evanston. Maybe because they are freestanding and sell only VW? They just opened the third location in Countryside a couple of months ago, but havent been there yet. Searching the database at dealer.vw.com shows that the Evanston Autobarn has way more cars than anyone else in the area. I used to live near the location in Mt. Prospect, and they added $900 of "dealer installed options" to every new car on their lot (Pinstriping, rubber strips on the wheelwells, etc.). Dont know if they do this at the other 2 locations.
  • opqopq Member Posts: 6
    I think good deals are possible on 2000 Golfs. I just got mine GLS for 1500 under invoice (MSRP 18.4k). I know a dealer in columbus OH had a bunch of golfs about a couple of weeks ago. At least one was 1.8t.
  • opqopq Member Posts: 6
    talking about a 2L version which are not as hot as 1.8t. Catherine9, how does 19.4k compare with msrp and invoice.
  • catherine9catherine9 Member Posts: 31
    Thanks OPQ and Aaron for responding to my message. I purchased the 2000 1.8t with all the options for $19,200, a little below the invoice price of $19,495. I didn't have much time to decide; the dealer said the incentive to sell at reduced cost ended November 30th. I've only had the car a few hours, but I'm really impressed with the car's smooth ride and strong pick-up. Hopefully, the car will prove as reliable as it is beautiful.
  • toto8toto8 Member Posts: 5
    I'm offered a fully loaded 2001 Golf GLS 1.8T(automatic transmission, luxury package, winter package(heated seats), moonson sound) for 19900 that the dealer says is the invoice price, actually it's in the printed document. I would like to get down to 19500, because it's not my color and the cloth on the seats has some dirt(that they say they'll clean up). They initially said no way, because "we loose money", I said I'll take my time to think about. I'll be grateful for an advice, should I stay firm or concede?
    Regards
    P.S. The car is assembled in Brazil, German engine and German transmission. Has been on the lot for a month and some.
  • opqopq Member Posts: 6
    The price you are offered is definitely close to invoice price(perhaps a couple of hundred over invoice). It may not be the best deal, but definitely sounds like a reasonable price for a 2001, 1.8t. You should also get prices of this car from driveoff.com, greenlight.com and carsdirect.com. These internet prices give a good idea on how the deal you are getting compares with them.

    Hope this helps, good luck
  • mznmzn Member Posts: 727
    I had my '96 Golf (A3) into the shop for a major service and was given a 2000 Golf (A4) as a loaner car. That's one advantage of going to the dealer from which I purchased my current Golf - they reserve loaners for their customers. I was looking forward to the chance to drive a new Golf.

    It was lovely! Smooth ride over severe potholes, solid feel, yummy! Still, I was happy to get my own baby back. I like the unobstructed rear view (no headrests) and the smaller (or does it just seem that way) C pillar. I also found the design of the speedometer very confusing. The tachometer is clean-looking, the speedometer was cluttered. I kept looking at tachometer for my speed!

    I'll think I'll stick with my plan to replace my 1996 Golf with a 2003 Golf.

    carlady/host
  • lilsimon1lilsimon1 Member Posts: 4
    I've decided on a 2000 Golf GLS 1.8T. I want the luxury package and in-dash CD, and have found a dealer offering $17965 for exactly what I want. I also found a dealer offering the same PLUS cold weather and monsoon for sub-18500, but he wants me to tell him how much the extras are worth to me. Since I wouldn't have gotten them at full invoice ($394) I'm thinking about offering $18200 for the car. Just thought I'd share what I'm paying (and ask advice?). Let me know your thoughts.
  • mznmzn Member Posts: 727
    lilsimon1, have you had a chance to look at our True Market Value pricing? The link gives an explanation of what TMV is and when you go to New Cars, select VW, select Golf GLS 1.8T, scroll down and you'll see the specific TMV.

    I'm providing the directions so anyone reading this post will know how to find the TMV on new cars.

    Good luck, and please, keep us posted!

    carlady/host
  • endorendor Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I'm new at this and I know this is a little off topic but I just wanted to ask about the new 2001 GTI GLX's road handling. In all the reviews I read the test drivers all complained about the cars handling especially body roll. I was just wondering how much the new 2001 sport suspension and optional 17 inch tires helped to improve improve this at all. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
  • opqopq Member Posts: 6
    The TMV on the edmunds website are not at all a good indicator for the prices of 2000 golfs. I recently paid almost $2000 less than the TMV on my 2000 GLS 2L. Also, i am sure the prices lilsimon1 is getting from the two dealers for the 1.8t are well below the TMV given by edmunds website. I think edmunds is missing some incentive going on at this time for 2000 golfs in the calcualtion of of their TMV.
  • CooperCooper Member Posts: 55
    Don't bash A4 Golfs; I just ordered one!

    I used to have an A1 '83 Rabbit L. Last year with a carb. No AC, no power steering. Opened the hood, and it was empty! Just a 1715 cc engine.

    Then, I had an A2 '87 GTI 16V, 1.8L, for 10 years. God, I loved that car.

    I'm now driving a '97 Passat Wagon, VR6. The last year before new B5 Passat. But, as we don't have kids, the wagon is too much car.

    So, I just ordered an A4 GTI GLX, which should arrive in January.

    [I must admit, though, that I was quite surprised when I looked in the rearview mirror, and all I saw was that center headrest!]

    The next version of the golf is even larger! Should it have tail fins, too?
  • catherine9catherine9 Member Posts: 31
    Twice my brand new car traveled forward slightly when I put the car in reverse, and then moved backwards slightly after I moved the gear to drive. The car is a 1.8t 2000 automatic. Is this typical of golfs or should I be worried?
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Typical indeed. The auto tranny in Golfs doesn't catch right away, and it will make the car roll a little bit in the opposite direction. I noticed it on my test drive, so it's totally normal. Just learn to hold the brake until you feel the car kick into gear, or it might roll a little too far and cause a little fender bender. Enjoy your new Golf.
  • toto8toto8 Member Posts: 5
    And I do not agree edmunds is not a good indicator for TMV. I've got a GTI GLS these days with automatic and all goodies but leather and steering weel controls for 20K, very little less than edmunds TMV. It's exactly the color I wanted and all German made. The last might sound odd, but if you inspect the details and finish, there are differences between Brazil made and German made Golfs.
  • opqopq Member Posts: 6
    I know two cases last month where people bought the car (2000 golf) for at least 10% less than the TMV. if you got yours at TMV does not mean that TMV is good, in general. Perhaps yours is a 2001, or perhaps the incentive is now over, i doubt its made-in-germany fact would make a price difference.

    I myself would like to know the reason for such difference. I called the dealer with a mindset that I would pay something close to TMV. But dealer offered me 1500 less than invoice (about 2k less than TMV) without any negotiations. I really did not know what to tell him then. I bought the car.

    I would still like to find out what incentives are going on that they could sell it well below invoice.
  • mznmzn Member Posts: 727
    I'd never bash the A4 Golf, Cooper! I'm just sentimental and not ready to leave my present A3 Golf. Sob... ;-)

    carlady/host
  • gorkojogorkojo Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2000 GTI VR6 and would like to replace the stock tires with something that would improve handling. I can't affod to change the wheels so I have to stick with the stock 16 inchers for now. Any ideas??
  • lilsimon1lilsimon1 Member Posts: 4
    In case you were wondering, I decided to offer $18200 for the 2000 Golf GLS 1.8T 5-speed, with Lux/Cold Weather/Monsoon/In dash CD. That price also included destination and tags (I needed new ones). The dealer decided in about 2 minutes that that was ok with them, so I think I could have gotten lower, but am happy with the price ($660 under invoice). The best part is I live in Philly, but the dealer is in Harrisburg and they're delivering it to my apartment tomorrow afternoon! My biggest worry is reliability, but hopefully I'll be lucky and have no or few problems. For those interested, J. Bertolet VW (north of Reading, PA?) has 2 2000 GLS 1.8T 5-sps. left with Luxury; a red and black, both with black interiors. I was offered 17,965, but you might get cheaper (the older they get). Probably should have gone with one of them (did I really need Cold/Monsoon? -- yeah, of course I did! :)

    Ryan
Sign In or Register to comment.