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Okay, I have a 2001 VW Golf (GLS 2.0 Engine) and I need to talk to someone who has some knowledge in them.
Everytime I call the Service department at the dealership they always give me a different answer.
Example: My friend who has a 1997 Golf her car was reving really high (so does mine - its just not a quiet car) she had her transmission fluid changed and now her car is really quiet. So I called the dealership and he asked why I wanted my trany fluid changed - i explained what my friend had done and he replied with - well if you want to, but u should never have to change your tranny fluid (they are actually blocked off on volkswagens so ONLY the dealership can do this - other than that you have no access to where the fluid is kept - as far as I understand)
PLUS, lately (couple of months) I'll start my car and it will start but then on the meter that is 10 20 30 40 (sorry dont know what its called) it will rev when i start it and then as it comes down it will start like gasping and then stall. I found if i keep pushing the gas pedal in and out it will backfire but then eventually not stall (dont know if its good for the car)
Ne whoo I'm really nervous about this and have no idea whats wrong and TOTALLY dont trust the dealership.
Sorry for the long post but does anyone have experience with this or had this happen to their VW OR is mechanically inclined and can give me some advice as to what to do.
My car aslo goes through a lot of oil. If i dont go for an oil change every 5000 miles it runs out. And the oil lite comes on.
Also if you can suggest a reputable repair shop that wont screw me over that woudl be great too!
thanks!
Your transmission is still pretty new, and if I remember correctly, you also have a much better one than the older models. So I wouldn't worry about it, unless you know you have a serious problem with the transmission. Make sure it shifts into the highest gear relatively early at modest acceleration, and that the torque converter locks,i.e., rpms - the "20/30/40 thingy" - become in synch with speed under modest gas and no incline.
Your engine may run a bit rich; starting problems like you describe most often in my experience happen with this engine if it was almost warmed up, then shut down abruptly and restarted very soon, again. At any rate, perhaps you need a new air filter or something else minor - if you haven't had your regular maintenance done in while, it may be time to do now. If your warranty is out, you have the choice of a reputable independent shop or VW. Take a look at this site for good dealers/ service places in your neighborhood. Unfortunately, although improving, the VW service network is still quite spotty. Independent shops can be excellent, too - ask around.
Finally, never let your car run out of oil. Please check the oil at least once a month, and refill as necessary. Most older 2.0 engines run very well on 20-50 oil, and don't use any (or very little) between oil changes on that weight. You can't use 5-30 or anything close to that in this engine, especially if it is a few years old.
Many shops, even VW service centers, don't know this.
A few 2.0s had problems from manufacturing (e.g., piston rings installed upside down) that caused high oil usage, but you likely would have noticed in the first few thousand miles. For the most part, the 2.0 is almost indestructible. Mine has about 150,000 miles and is still going strong. Incidentally, since I have an older (=lighter) model and the manual transmission, it is quite peppy, too.
Running out of oil: The 2001 2.0L engine is KNOWN to have an oil-consimption problem. NEVER EVER allow it to get so low that the oil-light comes on. If allowed to happen too often ENGINE FAILURE IS IMMINENT!
Folks with 2001 2.0L engine need to check and top-off the oil EVERY TIME THEN GASTANK IS FILLED....no exceptions.
BTW: My daughter has a 2001 wiht 2.0L engine... she carries a quart of 5w30 in the trunk and keeps the oil topped up.
revving when starting: Suspect the MAF (Mass AirfFlow) sensor. There is extended warantee on them from VW.
Automatic xmission... The dealership is correct in that ONLY somone with computer can check the xmission fluid.
It wont hurt to clean your snowscreen either.
Here is a good place to research dealership service departments.
I hope the above helps you.
ne whoo thank you for all ur input i totally appreciate it. I'm in candada so im not sure if the memo is good here but im gonna give it a try.
thanks again!
MIL ==> Malfunction Indicator Lamp (the engine light on the dashboard)
Oxygen Sensor ==> The O2 sensor is screwed into the exhaust pipe. It "sniffs" the exhaust gasses and reports its findings to the engine-computer . The O2 sensor is NOT used during startup and I would not expect it to affect your revving problem during startup.
thanks :sick:
I had a 2001 Golf and very early on, in the first 3000 miles of driving, probably just the first 1000, the engine suddenly shut down completely while driving on the freeway. However, it immediatlely restarted (no need to work ignition switch). It was much like a computer crash but with an immediate reboot.
I reported it to the dealer but there were no codes and I had no problems until 42,000 miles when I started losing power in the mountains. At first I thought it was vapor lock; it felt like that, like the engine was stumbling or missing unless I gave it a lot of throttle. Finally more severe symptoms manifested at regular altitude, and the check engine light came on. The dealer pulled codes indicating misfires, but could not diagnose the problem. At that point I was on the extended VW warranty, which is apparently much stricter in application than the original warranty, and the dealer told me they couldn't do anything further until they could actually duplicate the problem (the engine would start missing for them). I said I wasn't interested in waiting until I had to be towed in, and they had no response. I traded the car in on a different make shortly thereafter.
Oddly enough I bought a 2005 Golf later on, since VW's are pretty good driver's cars with good safety equipment. Also, I was willing to cut VW the benefit of the doubt- they aren't the only maker with computer glitches. What annoyed me, of course, was their cavalier attitude to jumping on the problem and fixing it.
Let us know what you find out. Yours is the closest I have heard to the problem I had. However, it may turn out just to be an ignition module failure, the turbos (I had a 2.0) had notorious coil on plug module failures. Still, it should have gone into limp mode.
I kept the Golf 2005 for about 2000 miles but then had to trade it in as part of my downsizing from four cars to two.
This only does it when I am starting my car - and only happened once like a year ago while i was driving.
too bad they didnt diagnose ur problem ...id love to know whats going on with my car...my mechanic thinks i need an new 02 sensor and im taking it into him tomorrow.
sorry
ps. there should be an emoticon for pockets turned inside out.
We tried starter fluid and that didn't even get it to even sound like it was going to start. We have good spark and fuel. Does this sound like a timing belt?
Since the vehicle was running when you turned it off... I would think that the Timing Belt did not change while it was sitting in the parking lot.
Since you did mention rainy wether -- I would therfore suggest that the IGNITION SYSTEM is the most suspect component. (coils, wires...etc)
How did you apply the "starting fluid" I really hope you did not spray it into the intake such that the MAF sensor was contaminated.... If so, you will be needing a new MAF sensor.
I wonder how you checked for "good spark" ?
You need to think about what the difference is when the AC is turned on. (HINT: Engine has more load on it and the onboard computer sets a higher idle speed.)
Check for vacuum leaks and also check the IAC
Thanks!
A LOT depends on how the previous owner maintained the Golf. VWs generally require careful attention to regular maintenance and strict adherence to VW standards. That said, the Golf is a sturdy car and will run for many more miles. And, its safety record is quite good. Check IIHS, Europes' NCAP or Consumer Reports crash tests.
NCAP Test on 1998 Golf: http://www.euroncap.com/content/safety_ratings/details.php?id1=2&id2=46
Get the current owner's repair/maintenance records and review them, then take the car to a good mechanic and have it inspected for wear and tear items - hoses, belts, timing belt change, A/T maintenance, fluid/coolant quality, etc.
I assume the car has a 2.0L four cylinder. The 2.0 is sturdy but not fast - good for a young driver, I think. The 2.0 gets pretty good mileage. My '96 2.0L w/ A/T gets about 26 city, 30 highway.
I am a 2001 VW Golf owner, and I am very frustrated with the faulty brake light switch that the 2001 Golfs (and other Golfs manufactured around this time period) are equipped with. I have had my brake light switch replaced FOUR TIMES now, once for each year I have owned the car. It's costly, and frustrating to find myself stranded in park over and over again!!! Why doesn't VW do something about this problem?
I am urging everyone out there who has experienced a similar problem to file a consumer complaint with the National Transportation and Highway Safety Administration. The NHTSA will investigate only if sufficient consumer complaints are received regarding a particular issue.
The link to the NHTSA is:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
or, you can call 1-888-327-4236 to file a complaint.
Thanks for reading, and drive safe!
Your specific problem seems to be one of the following;
1) Your dealership does not know the "trick" to installing a new switch and adjusting it properly.
2) They are replacing the WRONG switch. (there are 2 switches on some vehicles)
The proper corrective action for both of the above cases is the same ... have somone competent do the job!
In neither case should your issue be attributed to VW. They have done their part in identifying the problem (faulty switch) and providing replacement switches free of charge.
SURPRISE! There is already a listing for your described problem in the NHTSA!! (that is why VW has responded with free replacement of the brake-light switches)
I'll buy a std one before it changes.
Thanks a bunch!
I was wondering if anyone had had a similar problem or can help.
I am finding that my 97 Golf is stalling (in any gear/speed) after it has been turned off for a short peroid of time following an extended driving time (at least half an hour). it will run for several hundred meters and then stall. this will happen several times. the radio/lights remain on but the engine stalls.
if i start the car after more than 30 minutes following driving i have no problem and can drive long distances. If i drive a short distance, stop the car for a short period of time then it restarts and then runs fine.
it sounds temperature related, but there is plenty of coolant and the temperature guage is in the mid range. it has had a recent service
and oil change (+ new sparkplugs) 300 miles (500kms) before the problems began.
there are no clunking sounds and the engine when running sounds as healthy as always.
i would greatly appreciate any help on this matter,
cheers, chris
I live in Phoenix AZ and I am looking for a good VW mechanic? Any ideas?
he is a VW specialist and usually spot on. he has fixed several 94-98 Golfs with similar problems and so it looks like this may be the money.
hope this is of use. i will post again when i get the fix if it is successful.
has anyone else had this part replaced?
cheers, chris
It happened again a week later. This time, though, while struggling with the shifter, the whole knob came off in my hand!
Theres like, a shaft, and some kind of axial plastic thing in the middle that goes up inside the knob, and an outer chrome plastic sheath. I put the knob back on, pushed it down, and pulled the sheath up - it has bendy 'teeth' like things that grip the inside of the knob. Once I did that, it seemed OK and the car shifted fine.
Twice since then the knob has come off in my hand again. Like, it's not really attached all that well anymore?
Is this normal? e.g., should the knob come off easily if you pull upwards on it? Is there a simple easy fix (rather than waiting 2 weeks for an appointment at the dealer)? Is it dangerous?
Thanks
-L
Perhaps you need to chat with your service-advisor about your specific situation?
As for the cost of the part... I just looked up the "brake light switch" on 2 seperate websites... it runs about $5 bucks. I know it takes about 10 minutes to install.
Here is an example:
http://www.tdiparts.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=brake+light+- - switch&x=4&y=11
1. Both front and rear indicators on drivers side flash very fast and very faintly when indicating a left turn. Bulbs are good. Right indicators are working fine.
2. Intermittent windshield wiper has died, but other speeds are working fine.
3. Hatchback door no longer opens with the electronic button key, however, it will open when I press the button in the glove box. All other functions (doors, alarm etc) on the electronic key still work.
I know that the local VW dealer will charge me a fortune just to find out what might be wrong.
1. Remove all bulbs from LEFT circuit and re-install one at a time and try the left winkers each time. You may locate a bulb-socket that is defective.
2. May be the switch itself... I have heard of these going bad. Also, intermittent wipers use an electronic timer. (while all other wiper speeds do not pass thru the timer)
3. I have no clue... since all other thing seem to work - are you CERTAIN that you are HOLDING the button down to release the hatch? (releasing the hatch is the only function that requires HOLDING the button down for several seconds.)
Thanks kindly.
What you describe sounds like what we electronics folks call a "ground loop". Check all grounds to your dashboard to make sure they are all solidly connected. (Verify with ohmmeter to be less than 0.05 ohms to a "known good" body ground point.)
Another way to troubleshoot ground problems is to monitor the VOLTAGE between a dashboard ground point and a "known good" body ground.... then attempt to start engine. The voltage should NEVER go above 0.25 Volts. I like to use a "peak holding" meter to catch spikes.
Since you suggest that the radio is involved, one test condition may be the "radio case" -to- "body ground" using the above VOLTAGE test while starting.
After you have done the above tests - I would be interested in what you found.
The codes are just INDICATORS of situations that the onboard computer has identified. These indicators should be used as hints to help you diagnose a problem. The codes NEVER tell you what is wrong.
Once you understand the above... you can start to narrow down on your problem.
My suggestion.... consider investigating the engine-coolant-temparature sensor. These were KNOWN to have problems on the 2001s.
Also consider looking into your MAF (MassAirFlow) sensor to make sure it is working as expected. There is a factory recall on the MAF for the 2001s.
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled?gvc=2
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroforum?id=3
Good luck.
another thing to check out is your injectors and the injector seals. they may be dirty need cleaning or replacement. not sure of part number.
Before we proceeded with this job I was checking my vehicle out with a knowledgeable VW mechanic. He noticed an unusual clicking sound when the vehicle cold started (not otherwise). We weren't able to 100% trace it.
It seemed to be coming from the computer (under the hood, far rear right just under hood). peter reckons it may be a faulty connection between the computer and it's large connector plug, possible short or whatever. thats where 'click' seemed to be coming from. Maybe check there.
Hope this incomplete information helps!