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When I turn on my car, the BRAKE light in the dash stays on, the AC doesnt work, neither do the headlights or windshield wipers. Sometimes it goes away if i turn off the car and restart, but not lately. I dont feel safe driving at night because the lights will go off while i am driving, if i can even get them to turn on in the first place. What the heck IS this? Its not a fuse, is it a wiring harness with all of these items connected? Please, if you have any advice, i am not able to afford to take it to a dealer and get charged hundreds of dollars! thank you thank you thank you.
I was seriously considering trading my 2006 Corolla, until I browsed through this forum. Almost every Golf post concerns reliability issues, troubleshooting, maintenance and repair advice, or dealer annoyances. It appears nothing much has changed over time. My last Volkswagens were a 1976 and then a 1977 Rabbit. They cost me a fortune just to keep them running. I'm pretty sure my local VW mechanic (Karl) put his daughter through university on my tab.
The Golf/Jetta are definitely nicer cars than the Corolla, but reliability is key at this point in my life. I don't want to spend all my time underneath the car, or waiting at the dealer for warranty service.
Question: Why, after so many decades, is reliability still an issue? If Hyundai can get their act together after the Pony, Excel and Scoupe disasters and become a top rated manufacturer (check JD Power), why can't Volkswagen?
I just don't get it... :confuse:
The technician, says there's no error code from the scanner and has replaced an electrical device which name I don't know (it's not the alternator, but a winding connected to the distributor) It helped for four days, but with winter season entering the region, I have the same problem. Where should I continue? :sick:
The cause of this could be several things. You did not mention which engine you have so I cannot help very much.
Certainly consider the "engine temparture sensor" may be sending false signals to the computer. (If sensor tells computer that engine is always hot... then enrichener will not kick in.)
If your engine has a "fifth injector" which is used to add xtra fuel when cold, it should be scrutinized too.
Some older VW engines used a "bypass idle circuit" to increase the idle when engine is cold.
Also, do not forget that the hatch and the hood also have switches to feedback when they are closed too.
One "test" you can do is to verify that opening each door will turn on the interior lights. (this tests ONE of the micro-switches)
If you can isolate which door is the culprit, then it may need to be disassembled and checked.
Here is a thread for taking the door apart:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1015107
Here is a thread with pics of the electronics involved:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1542461
Finally, a link with the switch replacement:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=730184
Being a Vermont driver for a LLOONNGG time, I learned very early in life that the fan should be always blowing while driving. This is the ONLY way to push the evaperated moisture OUT OF THE CAR. Otherwise, it will condense on the inside of the glass... just like you are seeing.
Volkswages are very well sealed. (do you recall the advertizments of the Beetle being able to FLOAT on water?) Any moisture must be "purged" by running the blower as hot as you can stand it.
The only way to "purge" the inside of the car is to run the heat and fan on "HIGH" for over an hour. It may be ucomfortable for the passengers... but will ensure the interiour of your car is thoroughly dried out. If you have floormats, then they should be REMOVED while you are going thru this drying process.
Then, to keep things dry. Always have the blower moving air. (And use "recirculate" as little as possible)
I have a 2007 rabbit with 3,100 miles on it that has had 3 out-of-round tires in the same location - drivers side front. Each time that the tire was found to be defective all other tires were checked to make sure they weren't out of round; and still has only been in that same location. After 2nd brand new tire I took in my car to dealer. Dealer found nothing mechanical...however they thought it was unusual. Now this is my 3rd out-of-round tire and I will be taking in my car again. Has anyone ever heard of this being a problem on the rabbit/golf? It seems it takes a few weeks after getting new tire for it to become out-of-round, so i find it difficult dealer doesn't see anything mechanical. It is really bothersome, considering it makes my overall driving experience really unpleasant.
I would appreciate any feedback to this very annoying problem.
Your car has 3 other perfectly round tire-wheel combinations that can be swapped into that position. If the problem does not stay with the tire-wheel combonaiton.. then it is NOT the tire nor the wheel.
My years of experience tell me that your problem is not a "tire" at all. There is a whole lot of other rotating mass that may present itself as seeming like an "out of round" tire.
Just so we are all clear on your problem... can you please describe in detail why you think the "TIRE" is out-of-round? Please include specifics about the symptoms you are experiencing.
I just purchased a 2003 golf generation and its fantastic! never driven a better hatchback in my life.. It has only 19 000KM on it so its like brand new.
A few questions regarding it
- I have seen a nice blue tint on the side mirrors on other generation and GTI Golfs. Does this come standard and can this be purchased? It makes it look really nice..
- I been hearing a whisteling noise in my car when i start the car and start driving. some people say it has to do with teh fuel pump and thats how european cars sound like.. I am not sure what this is and not sure if its an issue. Does anyone else have this noise?
As for the sound you are hearing... Are you sure it is not the serpentine belt sqeeking a bit?
Perhaps if we knew which engine you have, we could be more helpful.
I'm new to this forum, but I hope you can help me out. My dog has chewed part-way through the rear driver's side seat belt of my 2004 Golf. The seat belt still functions, but looks worse for the wear--and I take safety very seriously, so I'm uncomfortable with the idea that its function may have been compromised. I asked for an estimate at the dealer nearby and was told it would be $315 ($155 for the part, $160 for the labor) to replace. This seems like rather a lot to me...I'm new to car ownership, so I hope you will bear with me as I ask the following questions:
1) Is there a reputable place where I can get a replacement part for less?
2) Does the dealer have to perform the labor, or can I take it to another shop for installation?
3) Is it possible to install it myself (with help from a mechanically savvy friend, of course)?
Any advice would be appreciated! I had not anticipated that there would be such a price to pay for a little puppy chewing...
Rear drivers-side seatbelts do not often get much use, so you will likely be able to find nearly new seatbelt components. (most rear passengers sit opposite of driver for legroom)
Also, by removing it yourself from a scrapped car, you can be selective in what parts you chose AND become familear on how to remove them without fear of damaging your own car.
www.night-drive.com
this is my version
http://www.jumpcut.com/view?id=387C6AA00EBD11DC9FD0000423CF385C
Post yours
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Your 2003 GOlf already has tinted windows from the factory so there is little reason to add more. You may wish to find out what is legal in your state before you do anything. The laws are there to protect you. Getting into an accident because you could not see out of the windows at night would not be fun.
Anyway, the took care of replacing the "nipple" on the fuel line and for the first time ever I've had three occassions where the car simply tries to turn over and doesn't.
It the sort of situation where you'd think you were out of gas.
Anyway, the last time it happened (last night) it took about 30 tries to get it started.
Also, the check engine light stays on when it finally starts and it stays on until the car is restarted.
The dealership called me this afternoon and can find nothing wrong with the car. They claim that the recall, regarding the fuel line, has nothing to do with this problem.
Any advice!!
This certainly does not mean they are "at fault" or shold pay for correcting it... but it should help them diagnose the problem.
If your car has problems starting -- how can they say there is nothing wrong? I surmize the answer is that the computer diagnostics are telling them nothing so they are clueless beyond that.
Unfortunately, many (most) of todays so-called "mechanics" are just boneheads that run diagnostics and replace parts. REAL mechanics actually know how to troubleshoot a problem to isolate the defect. People with those kind of skills usually work in other industries that pay them $40 - $60 per hour for their time.
The computer showed nothing so they didn't want to truly research the problem.
They kept it overnight and finally I get a call stating that there is a crack in the Fuel Train which was causing a slight leak of gas and so forth and creating this problem.
When I asked if it were possible that the repair of the fuel line and the crack in the fuel train were connected they said not at all.
I will be without the car until Friday and need to find out more about the fuel train in connection to the recall from VW.
My thoughts are to call VW and explain what has taken place. There is an 800# associated with the recall and perhaps someone at their headquarters could be of assistance but who knows.
The entire reason for the recall is that the fuel line had too much tension on it and it even could affect the fuel pump.
Let me know your thoughts and thanks again!
Our car won't start, we leave it for 30 minutes and then it goes. I am thinking a compression issue, but am not sure.
Any better ideas. Of course the dealer couldn't "find" anything.
However, not one person in the service area could explain to me how a "small" crack appeared on the "Fuel Rail".
Again, they replaced the plastic nipple on the fuel line but that was close to the fuel tank itself.
We've had the car for 3 days and it continues to start but....that doesn't mean much based on past history.
It still bothers me that they performed a recall and then this issue cropped up.
The entire recall was based on too much tension on the fuel line causing cracks in the plastic nipple at the fuel tank and issues with the fuel pump.
It has been an expensive experience as well! I'll let you know any updates as they occur.
I know my 1979 Scirocco was cable as was my 1981 Rabbit-pickup truck.... but by 2001 they are all hydrolic. Since the clutch is SHARED with the brake-fluid, some folks forget that they are hydrolic.
lisa.
About a year and a half a go, one dealer mechanic said he knew what the problem was and could fix it, but because my car is no longer under warranty, it would cost me almost $1000.
The past few weeks, I have been having my car not start. I get in, put the key in but when I turn to start the car, everything turns off. My first thought was the battery died, I live in AZ and batteries do not last long. But while I was waiting for someone to help me jump my car, I sit in the front seat and notice my clock is back on. I put the key in the ignition and it starts right up! This happened again a week later, and then happened again yesterday, 11 days from the last time.
Anybody have any suggestions? I called VW customer care and the employee documented everything but because my warranty is expired they cannot do anything, THOUGH I have the option of taking it to a dealer and having it diagnosed (but paying for it myself!) I am concerned that there will be a problem when I am driving and it could cause an accident hurting myself and other innocent people.
I am ready for a new car, but I owe so much still because of a stupid ex-husband who thought it was a good idea to lease and then separates from me when the lease is up, and since he didn't pay the alimony he was supposed to left me no option but finance and buy the stupid thing.
I need a safe ride but cannot afford to pay for repairs when I don't feel I've done anything wrong. I just wish VW would diagnose the thing and if they believe the problem is unrelated to the CD player installation then I will pay for repairs or get rid of the car. It's just frustrating that they aren't willing to do anything but "document my concerns!" :mad: :lemon:
thanks
If new sparkplug wires dont fix it. Suspect the coil itself.
Thanks!
We replaced the starter coil, worked fine after that. try that. go for a good quality one though the one that was in my car was unprotected and cracked all over, the new one has a metal case around it, much better at keeping the water out. hope that helps :shades:
Perhaps you mean the IGNITION coil ?
(I just dont want other folks to get confused and start looking for a "starter coil" under the hood)
the alarm will not disarm at all, i can stop the alarm from going off, but it instantly re-arms itself if i try to disarm it, i also obviously cannot start the golf either
and i also dont have power locks anymore, no idea why, it just did this all randomly in the middle of the day
only thing i can think is a bad relay