Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

fjm1 · August 2001

I got the stage 1 about 4 months ago. Took me the better part of the day to install and has worked flawlessly. My OEM clutch was slipping so this was a great improvement. No noticable difference in pedal effort.

I almost got the Stage 0 because it was so cheap!

Flywheels: Lighter spins up faster but robs torque. It's a tradeoff.

only1harry · August 2001

chem: Yep, as long as the bushings are polyurethane they 'll squeak (squeek? chk spelling), but not right away. It takes them about 5-6mos to start squeaking. They also don't squeak as much in the summer time or in warm weather and they 're not that bad. The squeak a lot more in colder weather (like 55 & below). My sway bar bushings were squaking up until the middle of May. Haven't heard them squeak all summer.. I think Energy suspension makes some new bushings that have a small hole in them so you can grease them up. Don't know if they make the re-greasable one for the shifter, but if they do, it would be for the stock shifter.
Don't know if you have to move the exhaust out of the way for the B&M shifter. I never modded my Civic HB. But if you have to do anything like that I wouldn't buy that shifter. Get another one. I don't imagine the exhaust would be in the way. I mean what kind of product is that, that you 'd have to reposition your exhaust just to put in a shifter and some linkage? I can see if you were installing a racing tranny or Type-R tranny or something.. But a shifter? I wouldn't buy it.

chem123 · August 2001

I'm going to get an Autometer tach (3 3/4" white face) for by hb soon. I realize this is an Integra forum, but I guess since one member can relate to my experiences, it's okay. I've joined chb.com recently and its not too bad. The frequency of knowledgeable people may not be as great as a h-t.com but it is a young site. Thanks for the thoughts about squeaking (squaking? better check spelling

). After I install the ss and the strut bar, it will be time to order the tach and rear sway. Then to call it a day

.

sgrd0q · August 2001

Hi all,

My girlfriend was in an accident, and is currently selling her Integra. Does anybody know what the fair price might be?

It's a '90 hatchback GS, 218,000. Runs great, regular service (last time the timing belt was changed was at 180K miles), oil changes every 3K miles, etc.

The only problem is the damage from the accident - the rear left side is pretty damaged, but doesn't appear to affect the susspension. Looks pretty ugly though. Front left is also somewhat damaged - the headlight is brocken, and the bumber misaligned.

Any idea? Any help will be appreciated!

Thanks.

pocahontas · August 2001

you should also check out Edmunds' Used Vehicle Appraiser to see what other people are selling a 1990 Integra for in your region.

Also, here's a direct link to Edmunds'Used Power shopper, where you'll be directed to some sources where you can place a free online ad. Good luck. ;-)

Pocahontas
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only1harry · September 2001

www.kbb.com (kelly blue book). That will give you an idea what a '90 GS goes for with the exact mileage you have. Then unfortunately you 'd have to subtract several hundred $$ or a thousand or more for the damage. At this point it looks like you wouldn't get too much for it because of the body damage.

sgrd0q · September 2001

pocahontas HOST, only1harry,

Thanks for your reponse. Your info helped. My girlfriend sold the car yesterday.

Thanks

calvinsj1 · September 2001

Hi,
My car is GSR-01. I have purchased and installed a apexi V-AFC controller for my car as suggestion from the performance shop. I wonder that you guy in here can give to me some suggestion of correction adjusting for this unit. I see no different at horse power after the installation. Any body in here is using this unit? Please help me to know how to use this unit.
Thank you so much for your help....

only1harry · September 2001

www.honda-tech.com

You 'll get all the technical info you need there from many people who have the same exact unit.
I don't have a VAFC so I couldn't help you. But I do know this: the only way you 'll notice a little more power is if you lower the VTEC crossover point to like 5K or 4500 RPM instead of 6K which is the factory setting. The Apexi V-AFC should allow you to do this. I believe it also allows for fuel pressure adjustment. Again, you will only see power gains if you have an aftermarket Fuel Pump (and/or a bigger throttle body. The V-AFC only really helps if you have mods on the car. In order to see any type of "significant gains" with the V-AFC you must have at least bolt-on mods, like header, exhaust, cold air intake and some minor engine mods, like aftermarket (Type-R will do too) CAM gears and/or cams. If everything is stock on your '01 GSR, the most you 'll get is about 1-2hp out of a VAFC and you won't really notice that, but again the VAFC can help give you the power earlier by getting VTEC to kick in at lower RPM. If you do this you will experience a little better acceleration. I wouldn't go below 4500RPM. Most people set it for 5K and 5500.

roc2 · November 2001

I would like to hear/read horror stories about broken timing belt. I bought my '95 integra used. Now it has about 76K miles, and I wonder if it is time to replace it. Manual says, this belt is good for 90K miles, and if a car is driven in severe conditions only for 60K miles. But I don't think that previous owner was driving this car in severe conditios (she lived and titled this car in Chicago area, and put about 12K miles per year). Has anyone experienced this problem, and after how many miles? Any input in this matter will be appreciated. Thank you.

only1harry · December 2001

You don't know how the previous owner drove the car. He may 've driven it extremely hard with a lead foot and going to redline regularly. You should change it soon. I 'd change it by 80k if I were you. I know one guys whose timing belt snapped at 85k so you never know. Doesn't hurt to do it a little earlier. The 60k they mention in the manual is their insurance policy or release of liability if it breaks before 90k. Get it done especially since you don't know HOW the previous owner drove the car.

roc2 · December 2001

to: only1harry
Thank you for your input in this matter. I'll keep this in mind. The friend of mine replaced timing belt in his honda civic around 90K miles. I think that your suggestion to replace it at 80K sounds good. roc2.

chem123 · December 2001

yep...80K is a good bet. Good luck

only1harry · December 2001

I replaced the timing belt on my '97 Civic at 91k mi. I have to admit though, I was pretty nervous when the car hit 90K and the dealer gave me an appointmet that was a week later..

teller · December 2001

I have a '94 Integra LS with 120,000 miles and still going strong. In fact, aside from (faithful) maintenance, I have never really had to repair the car, and it runs (almost) like new. Can I hear a few "real world" stories about high mileage Integras? Thanks...

chem123 · December 2001

There is a guy on this board that passed the quarter-century mark a couple of months back. Congratulations and good luck with your Teg.

only1harry · December 2001

there were 2 of them here a couple of months ago. One of them has a g2 Integra, '91 or 92 I think with over 200k mi.
The other guy buys a new Integra like every 2yrs because he travels a lot for his job. His first one a '98 or '99 LS went to 210k before the valves needed to be repaired. Now I think he has a '00 or '01 GSR.
How often do you get a valve clearance adjustment teller? I tried to make an appt. with the dealer because my '99 GSR has 27k hard miles on it (a lot of racing, official racing..) and they refused! They said to give them a call when the car is close to 60k. Now I can't tell them the car is raced 7mos out of the year.. I could insist and bring it in to make them do it, but I 'm afraid that they may not even touch it, and tell me they did it. The problem is that the car has to be really cold when they do it, so they tell you to drop it off the night before, or bring it in really early and come back at the end of the day. You can tell I don't trust dealers..

teller · December 2001

The first couple of times, I took it in every 15k, as recommended, but each time, I was told that after measurement, no adjustments were needed. Then I started to bring it in at every 30k, but again, the same story. I use a very good private mechanic (same guy since the car was new), and the valves have been checked regularly, but no adjustment needed in 120,000 miles.

brekke · December 2001

I have an '87 with 221K miles. I just paid $300 to replace both sides of the front axle. My brother gave me the car a year ago, at the time I paid for new tires, tune up, new struts f+r and a rear bushing for $1500. It's only used as a second car now but it runs great. I don't know what that valve clearance adjustment teller is, I really don't want to put any more money into this car. I forgot about the timing belt - arg!

gothicangel2 · December 2001

My 1994 black acura integra is showing large white spots on the roof and hatchback. Is this a known problem with the paint? Does anyone know if this is covered by a company bulletin? Any help on this is apperciatd before I approach the dealer.

chem123 · December 2001

Holy crap! Are you talking about the timing belt change you should have done @ 180K? Seriously man, you need to have it changed before you cause much more expensive damage.

only1harry · December 2001

The '94 & '95 paint wasn't that great. My brother's '95 LS had noticeably faded after 3yrs. He never garaged it. The sun in the summer & the snow in the winter can be very bad for your paint. He had the body buffed & waxed before he sold it so it did look better and brought some of the shine out. You should not have white spots though. That's probably a defect but I doubt the dealer or Acura is going to do anything for free because I believe our cars only have 5 or 6yr body/paint warranty or 100k mi. whichever comes first. Your car is at least 7yrs old. Good luck. If the car is in good shape and has relatively low miles, why not pay for a decent paint job? It will look like new again and will increase its resale value by a lot! I 'm shopping around for a good car cover now because my wife has too much junk in the garage and I don't want my '99 ending up the same way.. You really have to take care of an Integra's exterior otherwise they 'll fade on look dull. My friend's early '98 doesn't look too hot either. When garaged or covered though, a 5-6yr old Integra can look almost like new. I 've seen '95-96 Tegs that looked just as good as my '99 because they spend most of their time in a garage and have a small commute. I gotta get that cover soon!

brekke · December 2001

heh, were you referring to me? My brother gave me the car @210K miles, I asked him back then when did he last change the timing belt, of course he couldn't remember...but he's pretty good with maintenance so I assumed...heck, I better ask him again!

coolguyky7 · January 2002

I am interested in a 95 Integra 4 door with antilock brakes, moonroof and leather. The only problem is that it has 113,000 miles. I know that Honda/Acuras are built extremely well. Does anyone have any experience with a particular model like this? What are some of the mileage areas where I can expect repairs to be needed? Thanks!

only1harry · January 2002

or 5-sp? You shouldn't encounter any problems till 180-200k mi. especially with an auto tranny. Just keep up with the maintenance of which you have to increase the frequency. This means change the fluids more often and do tune-ups every 20-30k mi.

coolguyky7 · January 2002

It is an automatic. I feel that it is the best deal for the money right now compared to 96 model Celicas with fewer miles. Its mileage is significantly higher, but I feel that Acura has proven itself. Its one of the few brands I'd buy, especially used. Does the Integra have good visibility? Its hood and rear window look as though they give good visibility in both directions. Thanks.

himiler · January 2002

Guilty as charged! My '96 LS needed new valves at 218K, and now gets pounded by my kid sister with 248K. The valves were really fried, probably due to a lack of adjustment (only did it every 60K) and carbon deposits from 87 octane.

My '98 GS-R (now driven daily by my father, who is realizing his own Walter Mitty fantasies) is creeping up on 228K. Damn thing still breathes fire and handles like a slotcar. No valve trouble yet, as I learned from the '96 and had them adjusted every 25K. The 91+ octane helps too, I'll bet.

I now drive a 2001 Prelude 5spd. Picked the car up on 10/15/01 and turned 18,000 miles on it yesterday (that's 6K a month, folks)! The Prelude has longer legs for highway travel, and has much lower NVH levels than the Tegs. The engine is so smooth that I sometimes forget to upshift from 4th to 5th when leaving town. Even in 5th, it revs high -- 4100 RPM @80 MPH. It delivers 26-29MPG, depending on my mood.

It definately gives up some steering response to the GS-R (even after I installed a strut brace), but I guess that's what [non-permissible content removed] OE tires and an extra ~300lbs gets you. This spring I will mount SO3's, which will solve most of the problem.

chem123 · January 2002

Geez, why all the high mileage on your family's cars? Congrats, though.

himiler · January 2002

Chk my profile.

brekke · January 2002

How do you know if you need new valves, or if they must be adjusted?

chem123 · January 2002

Wow! Question answered! If I drove that many miles a year, I think I would seriously consider buying an Insight especially if most of the driving is on the highway where driving a higher performance car isn't felt as much. Once again, though, congrats on the success with your Hondas. Have you thought about contacting Honda/Acura and doing some sort of testimonial advertisement?

himiler · January 2002

Insight: rotten in snow + noisy + not much fun to drive = no thanks. I do like the technology, however, and would consider a hydrid Honda if they could make it a belter. Dualnote, anyone?

Yes, I have considered contacting Honda/Acura to tell 'em all about what great cars they make, but my guess is that they already know. I wouldn't mind contributing to a car magazine (paper or cyber), but haven't made any efforts to do so. My driving habits make "long-term" road tests look like a Sunday drive.

re:valves---When you start getting misfires, they're done for. If you start hearing more valve clatter than normal upon start-up, distinct "tickticktickticktick" sounds at warm idle, or a decrease in fuel economy and performance, it's a safe bet they need adjustment. The safest bet is to just have them checked every 25-30K, or once a year if you're doing a bunch of hard driving.

tiger_woo · January 2002

I just had my 90 Integra serviced. It has 192,000 miles on it. I was told I need to replace both front core springs. I am thinking about replacing both struts in the front at the same time. Does anyone has any suggestion about what kind of struts should I get besides the genuine parts by Acura.

chem123 · January 2002

What do you want out of your Integra and what is your budget?

exlegend · January 2002

Hi! My wife has a 1995 Integra SE with 80,000 trouble free miles on it. For the first time in 7.5 years, while running it through the car wash (soft cloth), she decided that the antennae's refusal to power down meant she got to listen to tunes in the car wash. Not. So, with that logic behind us, does anyone know where I can get an aftermarket antennae for this car? I had a '91 legend which I sold with 137,000 miles on it last January 2001 (to the same guy who has my '87 Integra RS 5-speed - sold with 117,000 miles in 9/94, it now has 241,000 miles and he reports it's still going strong!). The Legend needed a new antennae, which the dealer replaced under warranty, though they claimed it would have been $300 plus with installation. Any ideas as to how to get to the antennae on the '95 Integra?

tiger_woo · January 2002

I will say at least 250K. Two core springs will cause me about $250 to $300. Budget for the struts will be around $100 each.

chem123 · January 2002

I was going to recommend some performance struts but am not sure of any that can last for 250K mi and it seems like you are more interested in longevity anyway. Stick with factory, my friend.

clwolf · February 2002

I saw a 90 Integra GS for sale at a parking lot for $2400. They had the Blue Book sheet printed out on the window, which was $3050. However, when I priced this out on Edmunds, it was $1200. Both were Private Party (expect to sell price). I was wondering what the huge disparity was from and what cost you guys thougth would be good. 165k miles in Wisconsin (lots of salt used in Winter) with crack/hole/rust damage in front and back of car.

himiler · February 2002

When talking about a car this old, I think it's more realistic for the seller to understand they're in a "whatever the market will bear" pricing situation. The Blue Book vaules no longer really apply, and without a complete service history, I would be hesitant to spend more than $1500 on this car, even after having an Acura shop look the car over.

If you're considering this car as a tuner/project vehicle, you might not care much about the current condition of the mechanicals. As a daily driver, you should be very concerned. Either way, you will be spending significant $$ to replace worn components. And never forget that rust is the automotive equivalent of cancer.

zmp · February 2002

Hi everyone, I wanted to get your help and advice on solving a major problem I'm experiencing with a 1999 Acura Integra GSR I just bought a month ago. This car is a Certified Acura car, which means that it had to meet some standards before certification. A 150-point inspection must be done to the car prior certification. I bought my car in Jackonsville, two hours from Orlando, where I live. While driving to Orlando, I noticed some odd noises and vibrations in my car. My brakes need to be replaced, and the master cylinder is leaking (according to an inspection made by Acura in Orlando) just to name a couple of problems with the car. I have called the manager of the dealership in Jacksonville to let them know of the situation, and to get the money to fix the brakes, I also sent him a fax because he never answered my phone calls. It has been almost two weeks and I have not heard from him yet. I called Acura Client Services, but they said that they cannot do anything to help me, and that I had to talk to the manager of the store which I tried already.

I don't know what else to do, and I'm getting very frustrated and upset. Please let me know if you know a way to get out of this situation. Thank you so much.

himiler · February 2002

DRIVE to see the manager in person, show them the repair bill, and threaten to call the DMV and/or Florida State Attorney General's office unless you are reimbursed.

If he does not budge, make good on your threat and then make it a personal mission to destroy this dealer: write a letter to the editor of this dealer's hometown newspaper, badmouth the dealer online (making sure to forward all comments to the dealer's email), and call the Acura CS DAILY and demand satisfaction.

Warped rotors and a leaking brake master cylinder should have been replaced when the car underwent the "certified" inspection.

zmp · February 2002

Wow! Thank you so much for your help and advice. Finally, last night I got a call from the Sales manager in Jacksonville, he said he was going to take care of the brakes, but that I had to drive again to J. to get them fixed, he said that Orlando was charging too much. I called Acura in Orlando, and I am going to tell you these guys have been great to me, they gave me a discount to save me the trip to Jacksonville, and they are also going to make an inspection to my car to make sure that everything else is all right.Thanks again.

skedmunds · May 2002

I am a first timer to Integra and likewise car. I recently got an Integra GS '99 Automatic transmission with 34 K miles. While test driving, changing from 1st to 2nd gear was very much evident and clearly felt like a jump in slow acceleration and kind of OK in faster acceleration. Infact all the 3 shifts can be felt slightly. Which I never felt in any of the mid size sedans, except for 95 TBird that I had before.

I was told by dealer that it is normal with all the Integras and the shift is computerized based on RPM. I wasn't satisfied, and I did a 120 point inspection from certified technician, and he also said the same. I still have doubt...

Can anyone tell, if this really is normal with Integras. It's a certified car with 2yrs' warranty on it.

thanks for reading the whole story and responding

revka · May 2002

Have you tried test driving another Integra to see how it compares...? Just an idea. Hopefully others will come along soon that can respond to your question. Good luck.

Revka
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himiler · May 2002

Yep, it's actually how the atuobox works. The shifts are fairly abrupt at slower engine speeds because this particular generation of Honda/Acura trannys does not allow for much clutch-pack slippage when upshifting. In general, the smoother an autobox shifts, the more wear you get. Hence, a hard-shifting automatic will probably last longer.

As long as you get your Integra's transmission serviced regularly, you should have no problems whatsoever.

If it makes you feel any better, the Civics that share this same tranny shift the exact same way as your car. This was a tendency of all Honda transmissions until the early-90's, and Honda used to take some heat for it by automotive writers who liked smoother part-throttle upshifts.
Honda has since changed their shift programming to provide for smoother operation.

I hope this helps to clear up your concerns.

only1harry · May 2002

Perfectly normal. There's nothing wrong with your tranny.

chem123 · May 2002

Just like my old Legend...nothing to worry about, just keep up on your maintenance like you would with any car and it will reward you. Good luck.

skedmunds · May 2002

I drove 2001 integra, which was smooth in shift. They probably improved it in the millenium.

Thanks for clearing the air. I love driving it. Can't drive it slow

. Will keep your advice in mind.

94acura · May 2002

Hi,

I have a 94 Acura Integra with 138000 miles on it. I bought it second hand from a private party at 70000 mile and have been driven it for 4 years. The car was fine until last year. First the starter failed, then the ignition component, then I have to replace the CV joints and some booth under the car. The the right side front lower ball joint broke later and I have to change and axle Then ABS light is on. Right now when I drive over a bump, two knocking sound will appear from the left side of the car bottom near both wheels. ( One garage could not find anything wrong about it and the other one said I need to change some booths.) Also, the antenna won't retreat all the way down. One the high way, I can hear some rattling sound on the rear end of the car( under the trunk ?). I guess some of the problem is caused by the New England's bad weather. I saw so many posts saying about how good an Integra can be and I am really confused. Because this is my first car, I don't know if they are common problems or not. Anyone can help me?

chem123 · May 2002

Actually, most of the things you said that broke should be replaced or are expected to go at the time they did. No, I don't drive an Integra.

Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

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