Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

adamssj · January 2005

Yeah sounds about right. Im looking at a black 95 integra GSR with 140k miles, it looked pretty decent in the picture too and its going for 5500. Thats a pretty sweet deal isnt it? For having the faster engine in it, but then I guess with that much age its not gonna have its full 170hp anymore either. Should I be looking for a deal like this when I'm ready to buy?

nippononly · January 2005

for the price. Check it out though before you get too happy! :-P

mher916 · January 2005

For those looking for a used vehicle or evn new...my personal advice to to NOT buy Acura's Extended warranty. You can buy one from a third party whic is about 50-75% less than Acura. Of course Acura brags about their "Geniune parts" but I personally wouldn't buy it. I bought a 99 GSR 3 yrs ago (42k) and when I bought it the e-brake light wouldn't come on so I took it to them and they fixed no prob. Now almost 2 yrs later w/ 58k, my extended warranty kicked in, my e-brake lights won't go off. I took it to the same dealer and they said that its not cover under my extend warranty cause its a wear-and-tear issue. Before they can even tell me that its not cover, they want to look at the car and if it comes out that its not cover (which it wasn't) I will have to pay them $100 just for looking at it! I said WTF, if I knew that the extend warranty will not cover these stuff and I have to pay you guys, the dealer which I bought the contract and vehicle from $100 just for looking at it and you guys won't even tell me if its covered....I would not have even bought the stupid warranty! The warranty costed me $1400.00 I'm going back to the dealer to cancel the extended warranty although I still have 1 year and 40k miles left on the contract, I want whatever that is prorated back! The stupid finace managers does not go over what is covered and whats not and also that you have to pay $100 just to have them look at your car and to find out its not covered! Luckily I just bought a 05 RSX type S and did not buy their extended warranty which they where going to sell to me for $1275, I told them that I can get on from my insurance "Mercury" for less than $600 and covered MORE than what they cover. Of course the only thing they had to say was "well, it might not be genuine acura parts!" I work for Mercury so I know their products unlike Acura who they don't even know their own product they they sell. For example, I got the 05 RSX w/ Aspec kit and they didn't even know if the spoiler lip was bolted or glued on since they were having problems getting the wing to fit. I was like "Um..its bolted on!" Stupid people, even I know that its not glued on....last but not least, they think that I don't know [non-permissible content removed] about negoatiating and about what I'm looking for in cars just because I'm tiny and small and is a female...But bad experience...So if anyone wants to buy their extended warranty make sure you go over EVERY details with them first! Or you will regret like me.

adamssj · March 2005

Im going to go look at a 96 integra GSR 4 door sedan tomarrow. Is this car supposed to have a
V-Tech engine? But anyway, says its a woman single owned vehicle with 110,000 miles on it with records of all maintanance done by acura with replacement of timing belt at 96k miles and recent 112k miles tune up all by acura. And to top it all off it has a 6 cd changer in it

Overall shes willing to sell this thing to me for about 5000 bucks, but im going to go look at it tomarrow, is this a good price? Because I think this is ONE HELL OF A FRIGIN DEALLLL. Gonna drive it to make sure everything runs smooth and what not, whats yur oponion anyone??? And this car will haul [non-permissible content removed] alot more than a reg 5 speed 2 door LS right?

nippononly · March 2005

yup, the GSR is the VTEC, 170 hp I think it was in 1996? A HECK of a lot of fun to drive when you wind it up to the VTEC crossover point. The price is up there a little, but it is a fairly hard car to find in stock condition, which it sounds like this one is. Not to mention the major maintenance items have been done, so hopefully this lady kept it in good shape over the years.

Don't forget to check the CV boots and joints, the trunk under the floor (for moisture or staining), and eyeball the radiator fluid while it is still cold. Hopefully the leather and the paint are in good shape.

jcarter · March 2005

hello, i have a 1990 interga LS and i am having some of the problems that u talked about, the water in the trunk and condensation in the rear lights, i have looked everywhere and i dont know where it is comin from i just wondered if u knew how to stop it.

nippononly · March 2005

as for the lights themselves, it is because their seals have dried out and shrunk, letting in water. The only way to fix this is to replace the whole light assembly - the installation is fairly easy, or a shop would do it for $50-75. The part itself had a price on the order of $125 when I bought one a while back.

If you are lucky, that is also the source of the water in the trunk. Do that repair first and see what happens. Also, make sure that if your year has a drain under the floor, it is free of junk and can actually drain. If it does have a drain it is where the spare sits and is there to deal with this exact problem.

If that is STILL not it then the next problem is the weatherstripping around the hatch or trunk lid itself. Even if it looks intact, it is not. It loses elasticity over the years, and when the door comes down on it, parts will flatten out too much allowing water in. It is cheap to buy, but a pain to install (at least it has been for me the couple of times I have tried to do that over the years). I can't imagine a shop charging you more than an hour's labor or so to install it. Also, the gutters around the hatch/trunk lid tend to accumulate junk like leaves and dirt, which causes water to overflow into the trunk - clean all that junk out.

Good Luck!

jcarter · March 2005

thanks for the help, i will try this n hopefully it works!

lighthearted76 · March 2005

hi! am a fan of your message board and have just bought a '99 integra LS 36k which i intend to keep for as long as it runs
wanted to know if the timing belt needs to be changed now or at some mileage. and there is noise on turning sharply, starting, stopping...is that the cv joints as you say above...what will it take to get fixed?
also what is your opinion on online warranties from 1source autowarranty or warrantydirect...1source is giving a bumper to bumper 48m/48k miles warranty for 1550!

khov · March 2005

Hello friends. I just bought a 96'model Integra LS and Im not quite sure what to do with it. What should I do? Also, the car has leather seats, a moonroof, power, everything, so does that mean I bought a special edition??? I cant believe the lady sold the car to me for $4000!!! I do think it has been in an accident though since the front seems a little odd...Any ideas???

nippononly · March 2005

the timing belt will go 90K on that car without a problem, but if I were you I might change it sooner, simply because of the years. That mileage is VERY low for the year. It hasn't been driven enough IMO. Don't change the timing belt now though, wait until at least 60K or so. Get a feel for the car first.

I am very surprised if you already have broken CV joints at that mileage - they do not deteriorate with age, unless the boots crack and all the lube drains out. Broken CVs sound like a clicking that speeds up to sound like loose pebbles in a can when you are on the roll.

The warranty probably is not worth it - these cars are rock solid, but it might be worth it for you to get a thorough inspection from a mechanic so you can be aware of any issues it might have right now.

khov, your message is more perplexing. Yes, if you have a '96 LS with leather, it is an SE, and you should know that, because it should have a little silver plate just below the right rear taillight that says "special edition". If it doesn't, there is always the possibility it is aftermarket leather. I don't know the miles, so I can't tell if $4000 is a good deal, but if it has been hit badly, $4000 may well be too much. How does the front seem odd?

lighthearted76 · March 2005

bought my acura today...drove it for the first time on the streets of chicago...almost ended up wrongside into oncoming traffic, but then took it 40 miles on the freeway
this car is really nice to drive...its like falling in love with a car!!
yes nippononly i think there is no clicking/ pebbles in can sound so jts seem ok
and i'll wait till 60k for the timing belt
i did get it checked by a firestone mechanic b4 buying...there is an oil leak; and brake and auto trans fluids need to be changed
what is your take on maintenance...dealer vs friendly corner mechanic?
and this car was not driven much at all for last 6 weeks since the owner left the US nd left it to stand outside in the snow...anything special i should look into?
thanks and will enjoy this ride i am sure!

nippononly · March 2005

can handle this car no problem. The one thing that was tricky about those cars was replacing the timing belt - VERY easy to get wrong, and instant destructo if so. When the time comes for that, you may want to consider going to the dealer, or at least a Honda specialist.

adamssj · March 2005

Well, I went ahead and bought the 4 door GSR sedan. Everything about the car seems to be awsome. The leather and interior is in mint condition. The paint is awsome except for a few marks left by bird droppings and a couple dings from someones shopping cart. The only thing I dont like about it is this noise it has. Now the lady showed documents for all the services by the acura dealer and the dealer supposedly said this noise was normal. But what it is, is about everytime I hit 3000rpms to about 3500 rpms there's this vibration noise you can hear that's kind of loud. once it gets past 3000 to 3500 rpms it goes away but I'd like to get that taken care of if possible. Has anyone else heard of anything like this? My car is a 1996 and supposedly alotta the models around this year had something like that, but I think im gonna devote my paycheck comming up in a few days to having the car taken in and looked at just to make myself feel better. Any input?

nippononly · March 2005

no specific input...the sound is coming from the interior then? Should just be a matter of tracking it down (time-consuming but not too difficult).

adamssj · March 2005

Okay I feel better now, I called the closest acura dealership to me and talked to a guy who apprently knew exactly what the sound was. I guess a lot of those mid-year integras had this same problem which is nothing big. He said it's a vibration in the A-pipe (whatever that is)which is a pipe within a pipe that vibrates and makes that somewhat loud echoing vibrating sound. He said not to worry about it and that it has no effect on your car performance wise. I then asked him "So I shouldn't even worry about taking it in to have it fixed or anything?" And he was like no not really and especially beacuse the Apipe is NOT cheap to do. I didnt ask how much and just took his word for it. So in short I guess its not a big deal and the car is perfectly fine then...so long as I can bare the stupid noise every now and then!

theman_in_tx · March 2005

I'm thinking of buying a 2000 GS sedan with 45000 miles for $9000. Car is in good shape. Is this a good deal? Also I have never owned an Acura before. Does it need premium gas or is regular unleaded gas okay? Are parts and repairs a lot more expensive than they would be for a Honda Accord or Toyota Camry? I'm also thinking about buying a 1999 Infiniti I 30 with 73500 miles for 8995. But I think it requires premium unleaded gas and I don't think I want to pay twenty cents a gallon more for every gallon of gas, especially with gas prices going up. Very different cars but both have their plusses and minuses. I am changing jobs and will be driving thirty miles to work now. I like the sporty drive and mpg of the Integra and the comfort of the I30. Are Acuras more dependable and reasonable to repair and maintain? Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

nippononly · March 2005

has the 140 hp non-VTEC engine, so you can run regular gas in it. The I30 is the Infiniti version of the Maxima, so if I am not mistaken you can also run regular in that, if you like. There is a slight knock to performance, but it doesn't hurt the engine.

$9000 for a five year old GS with 45K is a good deal, at least in my area, but so is the I30 deal you mentioned. Integras last forever and a day without a lot of trouble. Common repairs are not notably more expensive than for an Accord. Remember that keeping up with timing belts is crucial for the Integra.

Obviously, even with a commute that is mostly free-flowing highway, you will save a goodly amount of gas money in the Integra.

akirazstylin · March 2005

Hey Adam,

I have the same thing happening to me on my 1997 Acura Integra GSR coupe. I have owned mine since it was brand new. Over the years there was that rattling noise around the 3500 or so rpm while shifting. To me it sounded kinda iffy like i should take it in and check it out. I did, the dealer said the same thing as yours did, it was the A-pipe, and he said its nothing major, but the sound was never there before. I guess its nothing major as they said it was. If i had fixed it the whole labor and everything would cost me about a $300 price. So, not to worry, my acura is in perfect condition, it just sounds like theres some exhaust on it or something...but It'll do fine, this was 2 years ago, and it still makes that sound.

kbizzle · March 2005

i recently bought a 95 integra. How do i tell if it is a gsr. the guy i bought it from told me it was i just want to be positive .

nippononly · March 2005

a gsr, it has VTEC, and in that case there will be a little silver panel under the right rear taillight that says "VTEC". Assuming the car hasn't had any major bodywork at the back where the badges weren't replaced, this will be the easiest way for you to tell visually.

harms1 · March 2005

Hi there -

I just purchased a 95 LS 2dr 5-speed, 125K miles. The car is in excellent condition and runs extremely well. However, when it gets cold (around 50 deg - okay, chilly - cold for southern California), the front suspension squeaks noticeably when you go over a bump. The sound only lasts for a moment (the time it takes the suspension to deal with the bump). When it warms up (around 70, say), there is no noise at all (well, you might get a little if you go over a big speed bump). The woman I bought it from (middle aged, original owner), never noticed anything. She garaged the car and never drove it hard. Can I grease this squeak away or is it something more serious?

mk3 · April 2005

I'm looking at a 90 integra with an auto trans that will not shift higher than second gear. Any ideas on whether this is mechanical or an electronic problem?

thanks

voicemailking · April 2005

If you have not bought your warranty yet:::go to:

www.insurancepoliciesonline.com go on left side to car warranties, clicl on cars, for your car you can get a 48/48 zero deductible for 1085.00 check it out, as i bought a 99 integra LS with 15,000 miles in december...This warranty is underwritten by AON Corp, a Virginia surety company, in business over 40 years. Carmax's extended warranties are underwritten by AON...I have heard mixed things about 1source, and it is $500.00 more...GOOD LUCK!!

:shades: :shades: :shades: :shades:

94integrals · April 2005

well i have a question i feel kinda stupid asking it, but everytime i ask somebody what vtec means I always get a different answer. so please can somebody tell me what vtec means please!

nippononly · April 2005

what exactly it stands for - it is something like "variable valve timing and engine control".

It basically is the first type of variable valve timing Honda ever used. It has now been supplanted by all sorts of more modern controls that continuously vary the valve timing, some on the intake and exhaust valves, as well as varying lift and all sorts of other stuff.

But originally, VTEC just did two-stage valve timing, with a crossover point way up high (like 5000 rpm) where it went to a different cam that changed the timing to allow for better high rpm breathing. Consequently, you got a huge power surge as it went onto the hot cam above that engine speed. It was loads of fun! The i-VTEC that most Hondas have these days is nowhere near as much fun, although of course it is much more sophisticated and provides for power at lots of engine speeds, even low ones. The new ones never take off like jet engines above 5000 rpm like the old ones did.

94integrals · April 2005

thanks nipponly for answering my question. I just bought a 94 acura integra Ls for 4,200 with a 110,000. It was a good buy i think it was owned my an older lady that just drove it from work and to her house it. She put a new timing belt and a new clutch. Im glad i bought the car its very fun to drive. the only thing i think it needs is wider tires the suspension can take the turns at high speeds

but the tires start to scream. should I get new wheels and tires to let the suspension hug the road a little?

nippononly · April 2005

back then was only using something like 195-section tires, right? I would say it could definitely benefit from wider tires, and larger rims too, if you have the money. I can't remember when they went to standard 15" rims, but actually it might have been the '94 model, so you may already have them. In which case, start with the tires and see what a difference they make. I bet it will be a bunch. Also, "Grandma" may have put on some "grandma tires", which could be part of the problem. There is a big performance differential between Costco specials and good performance tires, especially if you go with summer tires. I have seen used cars that were actually running on tires that were speed-rated lower than OEM. That makes a HUGE difference.

biggy_s · April 2005

I have a 2000 GSR with stock rims (15") and am looking for good performance summer tires. Any recommendations? Has anyone tried the BF G-Force Sports or the Kumho Supras?

Thanks.

B.

nippononly · April 2005

some people who swear by the Kumhos. Seem like a good choice for not a lot of dough.

biggy_s · April 2005

Thanks. I went out today and bought the Yokohama AVS ES100's after reading a bunch of positive reviews on the net. Supposedly, the Kumho's work well but have a very short lifespan.

B.

tymber · April 2005

Hi all.... God I hope you can help me cuse I'm scratching my head. Ok... 1998 Acura Integra GS... JUST went over the 200,000 km mark. Oil changes every 5000 km. I am ANAL about this car. Shes my baby. Cost me $9000.00 CDN at 175,000 km. So... the other day.... at 4000 km since last oil change, I went for another one. NO OIL ON THE DIPSTICK!!! Obviously there was still some in my oil pan because my engine didn't sieze but yikes!!! So I got an engine seal coating prior to new oil and filter. The car is NOT burning oil, that much I do know.... my front seals are still good... as far as rear seals I don't know. I know I am due for a timing belt and water pump change... could that be the problem in any way? I don't know how the two could be related but then... ??? Oil pan screw appears tight.... but could it need replacement??? I await your comments.

nippononly · April 2005

and how do you know you are not burning some? In my experience, Honda engines are pretty good at using some oil, especially by this mileage. Have your mechanic do a dye test - that will tell you if you have a slow leak, although you should also see oil spotting on the ground at your usual parking spot.

The t-belt and water pump would not affect oil loss, but the cam seals behind there could be leaking.

If the dye test turns up nothing, I would start checking the oil more frequently - say every 1500 km or better yet every couple times you fill it up. Track the oil consumption to see how much it is.

there is one other thing of course. If you are not changing your own oil, or even if you are, it is possible that it was not filled properly after the last oil change. Did you check it right afterwards? I always do that, even when I do it myself, and certainly every time someone else does it for me - it has been low numerous times, and even too high at least twice I can remember. I am assuming you have checked the oil drain plug and it was not just leaking from there?

OK, I will stop writing now! :-P

tymber · April 2005

Ok dye test. There is a little oil on the ground where I park.... so a leak is what I was thinking. However as far as NOT burning I don't know FOR SURE but there is no smell, everything under the hood is clean and I've had NO oil loss until this started approx a month ago. My LAST oil change was completely normal and then I go for this one and all of a sudden... no oil! Also just to make sure you are aware.... its 200,000 kilometres or 125,000 miles. Ok cam seals.... good to note as well. Wow.... you were REALLY helpful

Thanks!!
:confuse:

nippononly · April 2005

just FYI, my old Integra was going through a quart of oil every 1000 miles (1600 km?), but ran clean, no smoke and no oil smell, and it definitely didn't leak. It was at 250K miles on the odo. So you won't necessarily get any visual or nasal cues that your engine is using some oil.

But in your case if you have spotting on the ground then you are right - you have some kind of leak. It would have to be leaking fairly fast to fall off the dipstick in 4000 km - you should do the dye test and see about sealing it up. Good luck!

driverls · April 2005

I have a 1998 Integra since new with 95000 miles. The vehicle has always had the recommended maintenace carried out, and there have never been any mechanical issues. A 'clunk' sound often occurs as the vehicle shifts between 2nd and 3rd on the automatic transmission. This sound have been happening for 2 - 3 years, becoming more frequent. The repair dealer has been unable to diagnose the problem. Have any other drivers experienced this issue, or know why the noise is occurring?
:confuse:

94lsracer · April 2005

$9,000 is about average deal for this year model with 45,000 mi.. an integra is a great car to own they are fun and reliable also they get good gas mileage. my 94 LS integra calls for mid grade gas and im pretty sure a 2000 GS would be the same. all acuras come with honda engines so they are basically hondas and they should be cheaper on parts and services compared to the honda accord and toyota camry because these models are more like luxury cars and are more expensive. if im not mistaken the infiniti is a v6 and it would have more power than the integra but it would also drink more gas. i hope i was helpful in your decision.

mara6 · April 2005

Maybe someone could help me. I recently took my 97 Acura RL in to the dealership because the ABS light kept coming on. It has 140,00 miles on it. They had already "fixed" this problem once for $1100.00, and now I am told that not only is the ABS modulator faulty, so are "other" modulators and that the total cost would be about $6000.00!! Would it be unsafe to drive this car if "other" modulators are "faulty"? I am not having them repair anything at this time, as it is not cost effective. However, does anyone know if I needed too, I could have used modulators (from a salvage yard, etc,...whatever at this point!) put in and if this would be expensive??

nippononly · April 2005

you've lost me, I know that much. What other modulators are needed? Specifics would be good here. And you might try posting in the RL thread - they may have seen this before.

mara6 · April 2005

I am so not a car person, can you tell?

Hopefully this is more concise:
Re: 97 Acura RL with 140,000 mile on it.....

So far as I know (this is what I was told by the dealership), the ABS Modulator is faulty. We were told the ABS sensors would also need to be replaced. The ABS light comes on intermittently and this is why I initially brought the car in. The dealership "fixed" the problem once for 1,000$ and the light still continued to come on. The total cost they quoted me to replace the sensors and the modulator is more than the car is worth at this point. I was wondering if the car is safe to drive with this problem.
Also, I am wondering, if this happened, is it typical to see other things stat to wear down (i.e. will my dashboard start lighting up like a christmas tree because other things are wearing out)?

Thnaks for your help!

ssps · April 2005

My 1993 Integra is making 2 separate sounds related to the whhels. Sound #1: when first driven in the morning, front wheels make a "jog-jog-jog" or "wob-wob-wob" sound that sounds like a sewing machine. The sound frequency is related to the car speed when it is rolling without brakes - slower speed= slower frequency, faster speed=faster frequncy. Sound (mostly) goes away once the brakes are applied, and after the car is driven for about 20 minutes it goes away until the next day.
Sound#2: After the car has been driven for an hour or so, there is a "click-pop" noise from the rear wheels when braking at slow speeds, approx. 15 mph, for example, stop+go traffic. Does not happen at higher speeds and does not affect braking ability.
Any ideas, anyone?

nippononly · April 2005

could sound #1 just be the brakes scrubbing the overnight rust off the rotors? Or wait, you said WITHOUT pressing the brakes? In that case, could you have a sticky caliper that is rubbing against the rotors at first and then straightens itself out after warming up?

ssps · April 2005

thanks - we had the rotors greased a couple of years ago and that temporarily solved the "pop-click" problem (sound #2). So maybe the sounds are related.
The dealer mechanic said the rotors are always in tension and so "couldn't make that sound", but we'll check it out...

jay6 · April 2005

i have a 93 integra i am tryin to put 17 inch rs rims i just wannna know if it would work

superuser · April 2005

my gf has a 95 integra SE w/auto trans. She bought it used, and does not have the manual. The car currently has ~80k mi, and we are wondering when we should change the timing belt. What does the manual recommend?

nippononly · May 2005

it became a 105K timing belt, I think. But I don't know if they really changed anything from the years of 1990-96, when it was a 90K belt. They just did it to meet new OBDII regulations for California, most likely. Since the car is already a decade old, if I were you and I planned to keep the car a while I would probably just do it now. They can replace the water pump and camshaft seals at the same time. Save trouble later, what with that belt being ten years old already.

superuser · May 2005

ok, 90k seems reasonable. I remember in my 95 civic it said something similar. She now has 87k, sounds like we caught it in time. She is planning to sell the car in about a year (when graduates from law school), and she might put another 10k miles before that, so we are still debating on whether to do the whole thing.

quick supplemental question: what should we expect to pay for the timing belt/ water pump / camshaft seals as far as labor? any ideas? She got quoted $600 for the timing belt alone, sounds like a little much

nippononly · May 2005

for just the timing belt? Are you sure that didn't include the water pump? Most places would include that as a standard part of the job. And $600 for t-belt and water pump still sounds a little high, but I would expect it to cost $450, maybe $500. Do the camshaft seals too: it is no additional labor and the seals themselves cost almost nothing. Later they will begin to seep and leak, and then it will be the same labor all over again to go in and replace them.

Labor is about 2.5 hours, as I recall. Have them break down the costs item by item for you.

japcar1 · May 2005

Have a 91 integra gs 180k just this week electric light and abs light came on and remain on. Had a new rebuilt alternator and belts put on in last 16 months . Manual indicates that abs comes on when there is an electric issue so that answers the abs question.

Has the alternator failed and I am only going on whats left on the battery, or is there something else quite possibly that could be the issue?.

Anyone have an inexpensive way to troupleshoot this problem as I currently am not working and a trip to the garage will end up up with me abandoning car.

regards
dp

nippononly · May 2005

yup, most likely you need an alternator - you can put an ammeter on it to see. The output spec should be in the back of the manual, or available on the web. It shouldn't fluctuate. Before you do that though, check the belt is still on and is tight. That is pretty easy. The tension in the belt should be such that it is not "ropy" - it should be taut.

Kinda sucks that your alternator died after only 16 months - any chance the place that sold it to you would help out a little with replacing it?

Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

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