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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)
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Comments
I am having two problems as of now. The biggest one is that when I shift into third at higher RPM's it grinds a little going in. I usually just let the RPM's come back down to about 2500 before shifting and it goes in fine. I have heard that it might just be the synchro mesh and it would be cheap to repair, but others tell me that any tranny problem is going to be VERY expensive so I should just drive soft till the tranny dies and buy a new one.
The other problem is that my passenger side seatbelt (it's automatic) doesn't come back up and lock when the door shuts. Consequently no one feels very safe riding with me . Would this be something I could fix or if I need to take it in would it be cheap? I would be way grateful for any responses!! :confuse:
The third gear thing may well just be that you need a new clutch? 75K is probably also how old the existing clutch is, and in an Integra agressive driving is awfully tempting which tends to wear out the clutch...
Is it easy to slip into first gear without a crunch when you are still rolling forward slightly, or is that really difficult? If difficult, it is likely the clutch. If smooth and easy, it may be the synchros, you are right. In that case the repair is VERY EXPENSIVE. I would skip it - just take it easy on the shift, rev-match if you can, and double clutching can also help sometimes.
The reason that repair is expensive is that the transmission has to come out of the car and get opened up. I am sure you'd be looking at a bill north of $500 at any shop worth its salt. Manual transmission rebuilding is a rare art, so find a good place to do it. Double A, M-C-O...DON'T go there! :-P
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The car got a new clutch from the guy I bought it from, so I didn't think it was the clutch. The first gear will go in fine while rolling forward so by what you're saying we're looking at the synchros, which really sucks. I guess just taking it easy on the tranny till she can't take it anymore is the only way to go. I have been rev-matching while I drive and it seems to help a bunch. Thanks for the heads up on the Double A, M-C-O!! I will definately trust you on that one. You are a HUGE help, thanks!!
As for third gear, you are right, it is very likely a broken synchro. There may be some situations where if you rev it enough you can bypass third gear entirely. Sorry to hear that. :-(
I was looking at a '92 last year that was on a lot, not a private sale. They were like "yeah, this is a fantastic car, no problems at all" and when I went to drive it, second gear was almost totally unengagable - the synchro was shot. I went back and pointed it out, their response was "no, this is a fantastic car, no problems at all". I think they just wanted my money.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Another thing is my car is black, four door. I love the thing, just unfortunate that I will have to replace the tranny soon probably. The trim around the doors is mostly all black but there are a few pieces that are silver. I would like to make them all black but am not sure what I should use to paint them. Any suggestions?
Also, the rubber seal on the door frame on the driver side is coming apart a little. Should I just glue it back and temporarily sove it or is there a better way? Thanks!!
I don't have any personal experience with those awful motorized belts, but it can't be too hard to replace one. Just a lot of sweat! Check the switch first, just like any other motorized part in the car.
vancleave - repairing those rubber gaskets around the door never works for long. Better to just replace them, and not very expensive for parts. They are a hassle to get right if you install them yourself, and cheap to have a shop do, so I have only ever done it once (and not on an Integra!).
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Cooper 2Xs Zeon
Dunlop Sport
Falcon ZE 512
Is one of these better than the others? Advice please.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Personally, I would pass. The leather is ALWAYS shot in old GSs, it will be $1000 just to properly reupholster the seats. Slap some $20 parts store sheepskins on them, and I guess you could live with it. It will be AT LEAST $500 to paint it, and at that price it will be the type of job that will last two years and begin to fall apart. Or you could just let it go and drive it as is. As with every Integra, check the CVs and boots. Check the trunk/under the hatch (under the floor) for water leakage or staining. Check all electrical accessories (lights all around and wipers) individually, and make sure the HVAC fan is working, and that the directional switches (windshield/face vents/floor) are working.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Many Thanks
i'm gonna pass on it
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
mustang cobra r 330hp
rsx type s (something like that) 220 hp
rx-8 hp?
corvette hp?
i am not stupid i know that these cars are fast and i did it for fun.
still need the specs of my integra
Also...
1.Ask about the timing belt. it probably needs to be changed. if it breaks while you are driving, the valves bend and you will be sitting in a piece of junk.
2. Stay away from acura automatics, japanese don't make great autos before 1998!
3. check the clutch. when taking the car for a test drive and if it is a manual, bring the car up to 35mph then shift into 5th gear. If the engine revs, but the car dosen't move, then the clutch is going out soon.
If you do buy the car, imediatly change the oil, it's been sitting with the same oil for 6 months, it needs changing! Also run some fuel additave through the car and fill only a quarter of the tank up with premium fuel leving the rest empty. Go on the highway and leave the car in 4 gear while staying at 70-80, be easy on it. This will help clean out fuel lines, and upper cylinder heads
If you buy it, welcome to the Acura family!
leather interior
sunroof
cd player/radio/am-fm
cruise control
engine is super clean
all electic
137K
I know 180K is nothing for a Honda engine, but this $850 car sounds like it has been neglected badly. Unless you are looking for a project, why pick this one up? There are a lot of fish in the sea. What kind of dealer would be trying to sell a car with a dead alternator? The bad kind, that's what kind.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I've been a Nissan Z guy for many years, but have finally decided it's time for a change. (my '85 300z had too many problems at only 130K. )
I'm considering a used Integra, '94, 130K for about $2500. No major body rust, newer radiator, rear brakes. The power sunroof thing is jumpy, but it seems to run fine.
What can I expect to go wrong with this car? Anything that might potentially cause a breakdown on the road within the next 30K or so? How long can I expect this thing to last if properly maintained?
Thanks in advance,
Remo
What do you mean, the moonroof is jumpy? Does it keep water out when you go through the car wash?
Those are nice miles for the year. As with all older Hondas, keep an eye on the oil level. Remember to check it at least once every third gas fill-up, or at least every 1000 miles or so. They are great cars. have fun! :-)
edit...oh wait, I see you haven't bought it yet? Definitely ask about the t-belt, and also oil consumption if you think they will tell you the truth. Check CV boots and joints closely, also rear lights, all wipers, and HVAC fan and all controls. Should be fine. That was the first year of the squinty little headlights - loved that style myself.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Sunroof opening jumpy meant that it seemed to be skipping in and out of it's tracks...maybe the motor is starting to go. as long as it seals water I'm happy!
I like the squinty headlights as well - the earlier years are also good cars, but it's the style that got me for the 94+. (I also found out, although it's unrelated, my cool old Z-cars are marketed to women in japan. Damnit!
You can also get the cost down by not replacing the seals and pump, if you are so inclined. And since it is a 90K belt, you shouldn't have anything to worry about anyway, if you have the records to prove it was done at 85-90K.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I'm suprised at how little rust the thing has for 10 years old in New England. I'm also suprised at how much room there is under the hood! My '85 Z was *such* a joy to work on (sarcasm).
If you go here:
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=981&location_id=524
and click on "Timing Belt Replacement Guide", it gives you all the specs.
Note that the 105K spec later on used exactly the same belt as the earlier "90K" belts. Also note that the 1.8 uses a t-belt-driven water pump, so you should DEFINITELY change the pump when you replace the belt. It is just so much smarter for the few extra bucks than doing the labor again when the pump starts to leak between t-belt changes.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Back to the problem w/ VTEC or no VTEC, we need to know more info... is it an RS, LS, GS, GS-R. If it's not the last one (which I highly doubt b/c they are rarely found or sold) than I think you got screwed. That is unless he did a motor swap or put a VTEC head on their (which as far as I've seen is always clearly visible) than it's as weak as my 1.8L GS engine. Given the fact that he painted the head (AND I think you mean valve cover) I'm guessing he's not the ultra racer he described himself as. It's not the end of the world though. If you're in California there are laws against pressure sales (I think it's within 3 days, but your defence can't be idiocy and lack of research. :lemon:
But as far as I know the only VTEC for that year was the GS-R. So lay off the dope and start saving for a GSR motor like the rest of us.
Now if the seller was a racer, it is perfectly conceivable that he DID do a motor swap into a lesser trim, but again, it should be obvious when you remove the valve cover.
And unless my memory is betraying me, all GS-Rs came with leather, alloys, and a moonroof even that far back, so if your car is missing one of those, it is not a GS-R.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
turboing this car after i overhaul the engine. i was told the LS was the best model for this, any opinions?
If it was a dealer, you have rights, and you could try going back. If it was a private seller, you have less rights - private sales are not well regulated. You may have to sue the seller to take it back on the basis of lying about it, and even then you may not win. In the case of a private purchase, I would say go talk to the seller and try to be reasonable, see if they will take it back. Hopefully, the car is still in exactly the same condition as when you bought it?
Either way, if the promise of VTEC or a specific trim level was never documented in writing, you may be out of luck - it will be a tough road. Good luck to you!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I am having thoughts about replacing my GSR with a used S2K (2003 at least w/ around the same mileage I have on the GSR, w/c is 15k). Question is, is it worth it to have to come up with $8k for a downpayment and a $5k loan (assuming I find a S2K for under $23k and get at least $11.5k for the GSR). GSR is paid for, is less to insure, gets better gas mileage and most importantly, still look forward to having some seat time on it.
Thanks in advance in helping me sort things out.
Hope only1harry comes along and sheds more light.......
Look at your registration for the VIN series if you want to be sure. GS-Rs in 1995 were DB858 for the sedans, and DC238 for the hatches. So look for either 'DB' or 'DC' in your VIN (it should be around the fifth place in the VIN) then look for the digit that follows the letters. If it is an 8 or a 2, you have a GS-R. If it is a 7 or a 4, you don't.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)