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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

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Comments

  • vancleavevancleave Member Posts: 3
    First of all, this may be the coolest site I have ever found! I just purchased a 1991 Integra GS back in January. It has 75k miles on a new engine and I don't know how many miles on the car itself.

    I am having two problems as of now. The biggest one is that when I shift into third at higher RPM's it grinds a little going in. I usually just let the RPM's come back down to about 2500 before shifting and it goes in fine. I have heard that it might just be the synchro mesh and it would be cheap to repair, but others tell me that any tranny problem is going to be VERY expensive so I should just drive soft till the tranny dies and buy a new one.

    The other problem is that my passenger side seatbelt (it's automatic) doesn't come back up and lock when the door shuts. Consequently no one feels very safe riding with me :). Would this be something I could fix or if I need to take it in would it be cheap? I would be way grateful for any responses!! :confuse:
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Ack! Those stupid motorized seat belts from the early 90s have proven very expensive to repair/replace in the cars of some friends of mine. I don't know about the Integra specifically though, because I have never had that problem. The problem will be that it needs a new motor, I am sure, and they were a few hundred dollars in a couple of Saturns my friends had.

    The third gear thing may well just be that you need a new clutch? 75K is probably also how old the existing clutch is, and in an Integra agressive driving is awfully tempting which tends to wear out the clutch...

    Is it easy to slip into first gear without a crunch when you are still rolling forward slightly, or is that really difficult? If difficult, it is likely the clutch. If smooth and easy, it may be the synchros, you are right. In that case the repair is VERY EXPENSIVE. I would skip it - just take it easy on the shift, rev-match if you can, and double clutching can also help sometimes.

    The reason that repair is expensive is that the transmission has to come out of the car and get opened up. I am sure you'd be looking at a bill north of $500 at any shop worth its salt. Manual transmission rebuilding is a rare art, so find a good place to do it. Double A, M-C-O...DON'T go there! :-P

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • vancleavevancleave Member Posts: 3
    yeah the funny thing about the seatbelt is that it works every once in a while. VERY odd. I think it may be something with the electrical system but I don't know how much that is to fix either

    The car got a new clutch from the guy I bought it from, so I didn't think it was the clutch. The first gear will go in fine while rolling forward so by what you're saying we're looking at the synchros, which really sucks. I guess just taking it easy on the tranny till she can't take it anymore is the only way to go. I have been rev-matching while I drive and it seems to help a bunch. Thanks for the heads up on the Double A, M-C-O!! I will definately trust you on that one. You are a HUGE help, thanks!! :)
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    hey the good news on the seat belt is that if it works occasionally, it is probably not the motor. Which means the repair if you choose to do it should be fairly cheap. Pick a time when it is acting up and check if the motor is getting electricity, follow it back from there. Those things must have a switch somewhere, which would be the next most likely candidate.

    As for third gear, you are right, it is very likely a broken synchro. There may be some situations where if you rev it enough you can bypass third gear entirely. Sorry to hear that. :-(

    I was looking at a '92 last year that was on a lot, not a private sale. They were like "yeah, this is a fantastic car, no problems at all" and when I went to drive it, second gear was almost totally unengagable - the synchro was shot. I went back and pointed it out, their response was "no, this is a fantastic car, no problems at all". I think they just wanted my money.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • vancleavevancleave Member Posts: 3
    I can understand that. Maybe you should have taken the dealers in the car and had him drive for you. Then when he shifts into second you can ask if the grinding and crunching is normal:)

    Another thing is my car is black, four door. I love the thing, just unfortunate that I will have to replace the tranny soon probably. The trim around the doors is mostly all black but there are a few pieces that are silver. I would like to make them all black but am not sure what I should use to paint them. Any suggestions?

    Also, the rubber seal on the door frame on the driver side is coming apart a little. Should I just glue it back and temporarily sove it or is there a better way? Thanks!!
  • carpetmancarpetman Member Posts: 1
    Shoulder belt problems on driver side. Not working at all. Assuming after reading vancleave that I have to replace motor? Anyone have instructions? Edmunds has been asked to NOT make available any maintenance or repair info from American Honda!
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Edmunds has repair data on ANY cars.

    I don't have any personal experience with those awful motorized belts, but it can't be too hard to replace one. Just a lot of sweat! Check the switch first, just like any other motorized part in the car.

    vancleave - repairing those rubber gaskets around the door never works for long. Better to just replace them, and not very expensive for parts. They are a hassle to get right if you install them yourself, and cheap to have a shop do, so I have only ever done it once (and not on an Integra!).

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • sironman916sironman916 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know the adjustments for 00 integra ls automatic.....I need the cleareances pleeeeeeassseee someone have them!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • carlyjcarlyj Member Posts: 1
    I need new tires for my 99 Integra. I've called several people, and the following tires are available to me:

    Cooper 2Xs Zeon
    Dunlop Sport
    Falcon ZE 512

    Is one of these better than the others? Advice please.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    are a good all around tire, but probably not the sportiest. The others I have no personal experience of, but lots of people run them, so they must be decent tires.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • sleeper24sleeper24 Member Posts: 2
    17 would work fine i hav a 91 integra and i hav 17 on my car :)
  • sleeper24sleeper24 Member Posts: 2
    dose anyone know if i could put acura rsx seats in my 91 integra ....even if i take out all the mounting from the rsx i know i might have to make some modifications but if its gonna be to complicated i'll just go wit some aftermarket stuff
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    $850? While I would usually say that any car that will start up and idle is probably worth $850, this sounds like a wreck. Will it pass a smog check if you have one? If it is a dealer, I am assuming he will guarantee that? If not, don't do it. The car will not "recharge itself" if the alternator is dead, so price that repair and add the price of a battery, since it will likely need one. If you haven't been able to drive the car, add at least $1000 in unforeseen repairs for the first year, and possibly as much as $2000.

    Personally, I would pass. The leather is ALWAYS shot in old GSs, it will be $1000 just to properly reupholster the seats. Slap some $20 parts store sheepskins on them, and I guess you could live with it. It will be AT LEAST $500 to paint it, and at that price it will be the type of job that will last two years and begin to fall apart. Or you could just let it go and drive it as is. As with every Integra, check the CVs and boots. Check the trunk/under the hatch (under the floor) for water leakage or staining. Check all electrical accessories (lights all around and wipers) individually, and make sure the HVAC fan is working, and that the directional switches (windshield/face vents/floor) are working.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • y2k_lsy2k_ls Member Posts: 2
    I have heard that v-tec engines have a 120 mph cutoff in the computer. Do the LS non v-tec engines have one as well? If so how do I override it?
    Many Thanks
  • mrblaumrblau Member Posts: 1
    thanks for your advice
    i'm gonna pass on it
  • swo_vicswo_vic Member Posts: 4
    alright, i just got a 1996 acura integra special edition hatchback (automatic). Can anyone provide the specs for it, and some basic do's and donts when it comes to racing it....its stock. i would really appreciate it. thanks
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    you're racing an automatic?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • 97civicintegra97civicintegra Member Posts: 1
    Look this is retarded to say the least. Why sit here and judge the two different cars, civic and integra, separate??... Mix the two smart ones. :P THAT is the best all around civic there is. What you want to do is find one of the lightweight 92-95 Civic hatchbacks for a fairly cheap price not worrying about the motor. Then get a 97 or so Integra LS Motor and tranny dropped in and put an Integra GSR Head on it for the best LS/VTEC. THAT is my opinion on what you should do. That would smoke any Integra or civic any day and with a little bit of mods to it... V8s would be no problem. ALL I'm saying is that if you want into the Honda/Acura area of cars then do it right the first time...
  • swo_vicswo_vic Member Posts: 4
    yes, i have raced my integra, and i have won against an escort and accord. i have dared to even race the following
    mustang cobra r 330hp
    rsx type s (something like that) 220 hp
    rx-8 hp?
    corvette hp?
    i am not stupid i know that these cars are fast and i did it for fun.

    still need the specs of my integra
  • young_acurantyoung_acurant Member Posts: 1
    v-tec engines don't have a shut off, well at least mine don't, it will run 165 mph before even getting close to redlining... the cars in ok condition and all it would need is a stage 2 clutch and some carbon fiber parts and it would be an at least 7 second car... b/c it already hits speeds of 135mph within a 1/4 mile... if any one knows some one who has the time and money to get this car, i'm selling it for only 5,500 dollars and oh by the way it's a 1995 acura integra GSR, 5speed and like i said very fast...! need money for doctor bills for mom... thanks any questions e-mail me back at t_machouston04@yahoo.com...
  • 94gsrzoom94gsrzoom Member Posts: 1
    Honda/Acura build soild cars. 180k is nothing for some. my girlfriend and her old man had matching 92 acura ledgends. her car is pushing 260k with a slight valve tap and a little oil leak, and her dad's had 305k! Those where v6's but they both still run like new. If the engine sounds good after warming up, no taps, pings or such, then it might be a keeper. check the oil, look to see if it is dark black, it could mean a dirty crank case, which could leave you with problems. Also have someone rev the engine and stand behind it looking at the exhast. Grey exhast is good. Black=burt out rings,valves and burning oil. White=coolent leak, cracked block broken head gassket etc. The alternator must be changed thats probably why the car won't start. when they start it at the dealership, the alternator can't charge the battery. This must be fixed! If you buy the car, tow it to a outside mechnic, dealerships double prices, but have better quality although.
    Also...
    1.Ask about the timing belt. it probably needs to be changed. if it breaks while you are driving, the valves bend and you will be sitting in a piece of junk.
    2. Stay away from acura automatics, japanese don't make great autos before 1998!
    3. check the clutch. when taking the car for a test drive and if it is a manual, bring the car up to 35mph then shift into 5th gear. If the engine revs, but the car dosen't move, then the clutch is going out soon.

    If you do buy the car, imediatly change the oil, it's been sitting with the same oil for 6 months, it needs changing! Also run some fuel additave through the car and fill only a quarter of the tank up with premium fuel leving the rest empty. Go on the highway and leave the car in 4 gear while staying at 70-80, be easy on it. This will help clean out fuel lines, and upper cylinder heads

    If you buy it, welcome to the Acura family!
  • swo_vicswo_vic Member Posts: 4
    how much would a 1996 acura integra special edition hatchback (automatic). sell for? in pretty good d@#$ condition, too

    leather interior
    sunroof
    cd player/radio/am-fm
    cruise control
    engine is super clean
    all electic
    137K
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    LOL! Honda doesn't make great automatics AFTER 1998 either!

    I know 180K is nothing for a Honda engine, but this $850 car sounds like it has been neglected badly. Unless you are looking for a project, why pick this one up? There are a lot of fish in the sea. What kind of dealer would be trying to sell a car with a dead alternator? The bad kind, that's what kind.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • geckoo22geckoo22 Member Posts: 1
    Im what you might call a newbie driver. Most car work i did was maybe put in a radio and a front lip, and strut bars. Anyway i want an integra. I found a 94 special edition one. This car features 17 inch racinghart rims wrapped in falken tires. The car is lowered with Eibach peformance springs and KYb performance shocks along with neuspeed rear lower tie bar,and Type-R rear strut tower bar,and Type-R front tower bar and rear sway bar,and performance shortshifter. Type-R Wing, Front lip and Rear Alteeza lights. This car also features an Alpine Stero system. The car also has a CompuStar alarm system with a remote starter. It has 94k miles on it. And its stick. The pictures look amazing.He wants 4800 obo And im thinking this deal is toooooo good to be true because the one i was looking at yesterday was a 97 stock with 99k miles for 5200. What do you guys think, Is that a good deal?
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    cars that are heavily modded are often used to race. That's why it can often be better to pick up a stock car, since the raced car may have been abused. If you get the stock car, YOU can be the first one to race it! :-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • swo_vicswo_vic Member Posts: 4
    i think that , that teg is a pretty good d#$%deal!!!. i mean i bought my teg for 3,999 and its a 1996 special edition 2dr, but it was all stock. i guess it does seem too good to be true, but i guess you could obviously take it for a test drive. Just make sure who you are buying it from, there are cases where the seller might come back and take it back illegally, if you know what i mean.
  • removationremovation Member Posts: 5
    Hi there,
    I've been a Nissan Z guy for many years, but have finally decided it's time for a change. (my '85 300z had too many problems at only 130K. )

    I'm considering a used Integra, '94, 130K for about $2500. No major body rust, newer radiator, rear brakes. The power sunroof thing is jumpy, but it seems to run fine.

    What can I expect to go wrong with this car? Anything that might potentially cause a breakdown on the road within the next 30K or so? How long can I expect this thing to last if properly maintained?

    Thanks in advance,
    Remo
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    I am sure it will go longer than you would ever want to keep it, if properly maintained. What do you know about the timing belt? if you don't have a record of replacement, do it now. That would be one thing that could strand you.

    What do you mean, the moonroof is jumpy? Does it keep water out when you go through the car wash?

    Those are nice miles for the year. As with all older Hondas, keep an eye on the oil level. Remember to check it at least once every third gas fill-up, or at least every 1000 miles or so. They are great cars. have fun! :-)

    edit...oh wait, I see you haven't bought it yet? Definitely ask about the t-belt, and also oil consumption if you think they will tell you the truth. Check CV boots and joints closely, also rear lights, all wipers, and HVAC fan and all controls. Should be fine. That was the first year of the squinty little headlights - loved that style myself.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • removationremovation Member Posts: 5
    Hey thanks! This was the impression I got. good advice 'bout the cv joints and bootz. since it's a trans-mount drivetrain, I'm guessing the timing belt ain't too expensive? I think it was done at around 85 or 90K.

    Sunroof opening jumpy meant that it seemed to be skipping in and out of it's tracks...maybe the motor is starting to go. as long as it seals water I'm happy!

    I like the squinty headlights as well - the earlier years are also good cars, but it's the style that got me for the 94+. (I also found out, although it's unrelated, my cool old Z-cars are marketed to women in japan. Damnit!
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    dealer will charge you about $500-550 to replace the belt, the water pump, and the camshaft seals behind it. Indie shop will doubtless beat that price by 10-20%, although with this one repair I would have the dealer do it myself - it is a bit tricky on DOHC Hondas.

    You can also get the cost down by not replacing the seals and pump, if you are so inclined. And since it is a 90K belt, you shouldn't have anything to worry about anyway, if you have the records to prove it was done at 85-90K.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • removationremovation Member Posts: 5
    Thanks again. T-belt was done between 85 and 90K. I'll have to ask about the water pump and seals. I'm guessing if whoever did is remotely good, they did these at the same time. I'll also probably bring it in to a dealer for CV joint checks and anything else of concern.

    I'm suprised at how little rust the thing has for 10 years old in New England. I'm also suprised at how much room there is under the hood! My '85 Z was *such* a joy to work on (sarcasm).
  • lash2lash2 Member Posts: 1
    i just bought a 94 ls motor, can someone send me specs on that?
  • integra96integra96 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find your code? I just had the same problem and cannot find my code.
  • 90gs90gs Member Posts: 107
    How long do timing belts last on a B18A if they were installed correctly? When I bought my 90 GS the guy claimed to have done it at 90k but he had no paperwork to support that so I went ahead and did it "again" at 140k. Just curious when I should do it again.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    if you are not driving it real hard, you can go 90K on each belt. The "severe" schedule back then recommended 60K intervals. Personally, I always figure 90K is OK for the t-belts on all the 1.8L engines, except for the VTECs, for which 60K intervals are a much better idea (especially if you find yourself on the hot cam all too often!).

    If you go here:

    http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=981&location_id=524

    and click on "Timing Belt Replacement Guide", it gives you all the specs.

    Note that the 105K spec later on used exactly the same belt as the earlier "90K" belts. Also note that the 1.8 uses a t-belt-driven water pump, so you should DEFINITELY change the pump when you replace the belt. It is just so much smarter for the few extra bucks than doing the labor again when the pump starts to leak between t-belt changes.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • teg420teg420 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 92 acura integra today and the guy I bought it from told me it had vtec. Im not to knowledgable about cars but my friends are. The head was painted horribly so we took it off to paint it black today. Once off, my friend was suprised to not see where the vtec was. My question is, is there some way to to tell where the vtec is because we thought we could feel it kick in when I shifted at higher RPMs but its hard to tell since my exaust is so friggin loud. Help me because I fear I got ripped off.
  • 90gs90gs Member Posts: 107
    Well first off I'm guessing that "teg420" is a young gentlemen. second I'm guessing that he is a stoner (420) third I'm guessing these two conditions led to him getting utterly ripped off on his first (hopefully not his second) car. That's OK, we live and learn. My first car was an American car - i think that pretty much says it all, right?

    Back to the problem w/ VTEC or no VTEC, we need to know more info... is it an RS, LS, GS, GS-R. If it's not the last one (which I highly doubt b/c they are rarely found or sold) than I think you got screwed. That is unless he did a motor swap or put a VTEC head on their (which as far as I've seen is always clearly visible) than it's as weak as my 1.8L GS engine. Given the fact that he painted the head (AND I think you mean valve cover) I'm guessing he's not the ultra racer he described himself as. It's not the end of the world though. If you're in California there are laws against pressure sales (I think it's within 3 days, but your defence can't be idiocy and lack of research. :lemon:

    But as far as I know the only VTEC for that year was the GS-R. So lay off the dope and start saving for a GSR motor like the rest of us. :D
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    is right - the only VTECs all the way back were the GS-Rs (and the type R's in the years they made those, but that is QUITE another story!), and they all had a little silver badge at the back of the car that said 'VTEC'. And yes, it is obvious to the eye once you remove the valve cover.

    Now if the seller was a racer, it is perfectly conceivable that he DID do a motor swap into a lesser trim, but again, it should be obvious when you remove the valve cover.

    And unless my memory is betraying me, all GS-Rs came with leather, alloys, and a moonroof even that far back, so if your car is missing one of those, it is not a GS-R.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • ebonyandivoryebonyandivory Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1995 integra 123k i believe it is LS im a noob i know but i was thinking of
    turboing this car after i overhaul the engine. i was told the LS was the best model for this, any opinions?
  • teg420teg420 Member Posts: 2
    My integra has a LS engine, and according to your information that means its does not have V-tec. It has been about 2 weeks since I bought the car. Do you think if I tell him I want my money back he will comply? I don't like the fact that I got ripped off when I thought I was getting a good deal. PS: the 420 is not a reference to the national marijuana day, its a reference to my birthday, April 20th.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    yup, you're down about 40 hp from where you thought you were.

    If it was a dealer, you have rights, and you could try going back. If it was a private seller, you have less rights - private sales are not well regulated. You may have to sue the seller to take it back on the basis of lying about it, and even then you may not win. In the case of a private purchase, I would say go talk to the seller and try to be reasonable, see if they will take it back. Hopefully, the car is still in exactly the same condition as when you bought it?

    Either way, if the promise of VTEC or a specific trim level was never documented in writing, you may be out of luck - it will be a tough road. Good luck to you!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • 90gs90gs Member Posts: 107
    I re-read what "Nippononly" wrote and he brings up a good point. Whenever you do a private sale always do it in writing. Assume that everything expressed verbally is a complete lie because they can totally flip in court. I started doing that after my 3rd car sale. It gives you piece of mind. :shades:
  • deryckfmderyckfm Member Posts: 29
    Friend of mine just picked up an 05 S2K. Got to drive it a bit, though kept it under 5k rpm and only went up to 3rd gear due to it being in the break-in period still. Noticed a difference in torque, handling and overall sportscar-like feel to it compared to my 00 GSR.

    I am having thoughts about replacing my GSR with a used S2K (2003 at least w/ around the same mileage I have on the GSR, w/c is 15k). Question is, is it worth it to have to come up with $8k for a downpayment and a $5k loan (assuming I find a S2K for under $23k and get at least $11.5k for the GSR). GSR is paid for, is less to insure, gets better gas mileage and most importantly, still look forward to having some seat time on it.

    Thanks in advance in helping me sort things out.
  • 90gs90gs Member Posts: 107
    Judging by the fact that you're not sure if you should upgrade to an S2000 I think they're is still saving you! First thing you should ask yourself: Am I so utterly rich I don't where to throw my money or is someone else paying for my car habit. If you answered yes to either of these questions go for it! If not (the rest of us) don't get your self into more debt to have a fancier car that costs more to insure and gives a bigger headache. Dont forget that cars are money pits... you throw your money in and it dont come back! If I were you I would spend maybe 4-5 g's on your car, make it faster, finsih off the suspension, sound system etc. Than you can spend another couple hundred taking your friends out to dinner, Finally you can send me a check for $500 bucks and include a picture of your better looking GSR and I'll send you back an index card that says that your car looks tite. After all that you'll be saving more money with insurance, you'll have spent less than your idea of getting the S2000, your friends will like you more and most importantly: I will have respect for you. :shades:
  • deryckfmderyckfm Member Posts: 29
    Had it not been for the $5k drop in the Integra's value from just last summer, it would have been an easier decision. Having to cough up $8k for a downpayment again is the questionable part.

    Hope only1harry comes along and sheds more light.......
  • tegchick95tegchick95 Member Posts: 1
    hey! i can honestly say i know how u feel...i just bought a 95 integra in awesome condition for $4000 as well...it also has a special edition sticker on it and the dealer wasnt even sure if it was or not...but even for a awesome condition integra its not bad at all...mine as well has leather seats and all that its also a hatchback tho...like urs i believe mine has been in an accident as well tho....when i got it home i was showing my friend the trunk area and there were pieces of glass where the hatchback had been previously shattered...mine also has 15'' phat 5 rims when i bought it...i would love to know if its a special edition myself......
  • 90gs90gs Member Posts: 107
    wait I don't understand your clutch trick "94GSRzoom" are you saying if you try to put it into 5th @35mph and it doesn't go in, than the clutch is going out.. you said: " If the engine revs, but the car dosen't move, then the clutch is going out soon." Please be more specific, and I'm assuming you mean all honda/acuras of this age.
  • gsracer05gsracer05 Member Posts: 2
    Hey guys i just recently bought a 95 Acura Integra GS-R but im not sure its a "real GS-R" also it has no leather did any of the models come without leather??my car came in black it has a sunroof and its sitting on 4 hubcap rims without the hubcaps with toyo tires it has the Vtech and the RPM guage does read 9000 RPM and Redlines at 8100?? and when i bought the car it was at a car auction and the screen read GS-R But no rims and leather i can understand the rims being gone but not so sure about the interior ?? the back silver patch neither reads special edition or Vtech because the car has been in an accident and i can understand the patch not being there the car was hit in the rear right quartel panel and has been fixed the car is in like 80 percent great condition with few minor scratches and paint blemish and minor door dings and i purchased the car for 3500 total.....with 156 thousand miles ??wat do u guys think?
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    GS-Rs came with standard cloth up thru '97, although most were sold with the optional leather. ALL GS-Rs had a moonroof and alloys though. It sounds like you have the real deal, with the 8100 rpm redline. Regular 1.8s redlined somewhere below 7000 rpm, I forget the exact rpm.

    Look at your registration for the VIN series if you want to be sure. GS-Rs in 1995 were DB858 for the sedans, and DC238 for the hatches. So look for either 'DB' or 'DC' in your VIN (it should be around the fifth place in the VIN) then look for the digit that follows the letters. If it is an 8 or a 2, you have a GS-R. If it is a 7 or a 4, you don't.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • sleepersedansleepersedan Member Posts: 1
    one more question fellas. i just bought the car ('93 integra 4-door), and dont get me wrong, i love the car, the motor pulls strong, doesnt burn any oil, and on top of that its a quick lil thing! my only problem is my engine is begging for me to let it breathe and give it vtec (lol) my question is how much do the common swaps cost? i was lookin into the 89-92 b16 swap (cause its a stock swap, no mods) but then i thought the ls/vtec would be cheaper since i already have the block. can sum1 who has had both swaps done let me know what kind of cash ill be spendin? thanx again guys
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