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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)
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Comments
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Apexi makes 2 exhausts: the N1 and WS. The WS is more quiet and designed for the street. It will still be louder than your stock exhaust. They all are. I hear people like the WS because it's not too noisy. I heard one on a '95 Integra (GSR) last summer while at an auto-x event and it didn't sound bad at all. It's a 2.25" exhaust which is what you want. There 's usually no problems with smog inspection with 2.25" aftermarket exhausts.
Don't go with 2.5" piping (not that many around anyway). They will be loud (I have one) and cost more. That's the price some of us pay for a little more power.
Another thing to watch out for is when you replace the Catalytic Converter (aka CAT) with 3d party free-flow CATs or a straight/test pipe, then you will run into problems with passing inspection.
You 're pretty safe with a 2.25" exhaust though. I don't know of anyone failing inspection because of an exhaust. It's just a piece of piping with a muffler. Mufflers don't filter pollutants. They only "muffle" the noise.
You also have to be careful with aftermarket headers. If you decide to get a header (I highly recommend it - I got almost 6hp more at the wheels with my old DC Sports 4-2-1 ceramic header), make sure it's CARB approved which means the manufacturer has made sure there won't be any problems with emissions. They are meant to replace your stock header without comprimising the emissions of your vehicle. I have a non-CARB race header (it's says for racing purposes only on it) but my county doesn't have emissions/smog inspection, only safety inspection. I think I may be in trouble in '06 though, because I hear new laws will not allow straight pipes in place of a CAT. Last year they made Cold Air Intakes illegal which is the most stupid thing I have ever heard. I had to put on a short RAM (warm) air intake that I borrowed from someone so I can pass inspection. What are they going to think of next? Aftermarket performance brake pads will be illegal? This is in NY btw. It's a NY State law, no CAI's. Makes me so mad. I 'll have to take it off again in a month and probably my resonated test pipe too.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Sorry
I don't know much about cars, can someone tell me what the canister actually do and how bad is it to let me car run with the tubing disconnected from it. The car seems to run normally now. However, there is a new rattle noise that occurs when I step on the gas at ~ 30 mph. Wonder if this new noise is related to the disconnected fuel cannister.
In the meantime, however, it is not causing damage to anything else to leave it broken like that.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Then the new rattle noise is probably a different issue altogther ... Although it may still be caused by the AAA tech banging inside my hood with his stick.
Here is more details about the rattle:
Only happens after car is warmed up (after 10 min driving) when I step on the gas at <25 mph. No rattle if I'm driving faster (say 40 mph +) Sound seems to be from the front.
Thanks in advance for anyone helping me diagnose the problem.
I'm wondering if this is good enough for the annual inspection (I live in MA but I guess the inspection criteria is similar to CA).
Can't tell right offhand what that other noise might be.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I did a search and found a link on how to fix it before (I can't find the link now, but I must have done a search in google.)
From what I remember reading, it's an old washer that needs to be replaced under the windshield. It involves removing the wipers and taking out the cover under the windshield. The job sounds a bit too complicated for me who knows nada about mechanics. So unless it gets real bad, I plan on just to leave it. At least I know it isn't a major problem.
If anyone has tried to fix it, please let us know how it worked out and maybe include some good basic instructions for us novices.
http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/interior/15.html
Well now i have a acura that has stuck headlights.
Anyone got any ideas on how to fix?
Plus water leaks from under the dash on the passenger side. I saw another post along these lines. But then lost it.
It wouldn't be the worst thing in the world to leave them in the up position, of course. But that's what to do if you want the streamlined look of the front with the headlights down.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
So in short: if you like to waste money or your dealer actually sells the gaskets at areasonable price (below $20) than start there. I would still recommend getting the "sticky caulk" (stop giggling! :P ) just to close the gap on the top though. I'm interested in hearing your experiences if you have similar success or not!
Mobileprojects
Mobileprojects
I'd love to fix it too, although not until spring since it is frigid here in the NE.
It has a newer (2.5 year old) radiator
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Word of advise: It can be done. A lot of people on these forums will shoot you down and tell you to just buy a new car or do an easier swap. I have a lot of respect for people that try new things though. When you think about it though... A 2003 K-series motor in our car might cost a total around $12,000-14,000 and 2-6months to complete but when you're done you spent less than a new RSX and it's a lot faster b/c it weighs less and you've got a car worthy of a lot more attention than a hopped up RSX. Keep dreaming big man. keep me posted.
--apjohnson
I'm going to shop around town for a good professional window tinter, however right now I'm a little stuck on the type of tint. I plan to get all windows tinted except the windshield (maybe, we'll see), however I already have tinted rear side windows as well as the hatchback. Currently it is a very deep purple tint, which I like, but I think I am looking for a change.
Anyway, to the details. :P My Integra is black, and the current tint looks great. I'm either getting a matched tint in the side windows, or I'll get the tint removed and completely change it all. I was thinking of maybe silver, as it would match my tail lamps, however I've looked on the internet for pictures of silver-tinted Integras and cannot find any results for comparisson.
Has anyone seen a black Integra with silver-tinted windows? Did it look alright, in your opinion? If anyone has any pictures they can link me to, that would be much appreciated. Either way, sorry for the semi-long post on such a mundane subject, however this is important to me and I thought this would be a good place for some feedback.
I've seen silver tints before in other cars. Any slight scratch on the tint will be real easy to notice...Also, I think some state law says you can only tint the top few inches of the front windshield.
No silver tint on black cars will make your car look about $1,000 cheaper and looks really nasty... same with those black/silver blends. If you wanna have a little more shine use the "high performance" tint like I did. It's got a reflective quality to it and it's much stronger and comes out better than regular tint.
For gosh sakes though... lose the Altezza's!!! And whats up with the clear lenses!?!?!? :confuse:
I've also done some looking around and I've decided to get some halo headlights as well. Hopefully I can find some with a blue LED halo, as I think that will look best with my car.
I'll post a few pictures of my car and what it looks like now tomorrow, and hopefully I'll be getting the tint done tomorrow as well so I'll have some after shots too.
As for the Eurolites, I love them. I think it really looks good on a black Integra, but I may be in the minority with that one. Still really hoping to get the clear bumper blinkers though.
Thanks for your feedback guys!
:confuse:
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I tried to play a cassette, and the same thing happens, so it isn't just the radio. I want to take the unit out to see if the plug in the back is loose. Or to just change to a new unit altogether. Does anyone know how to take the radio out? Do I have to remove all the front panel cover?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Is a 'flush' necessary, or should it be just a drain & fill.
If your car is a manual and you dont want to be constantly resurfacing your rotos I recommend NOT braking in neutral. Yes, you heard me . Just leave your car in gear when you're braking and than don't pop the clutch in until you're about to stall out. I'v had so many friends that dont know how to drive and refuse to take my advice and suffer a similar fate as your shaking car.