Toyota Celica (Hatchbacks / All Years)

momneedshelp · May 2006

hi guys can anyone out there tell me where i can find information on a 92 toyota paseo. i typed it into the search here on edmunds and it came up with nothing. any help would be appreciated. i have a rad problem and need help. thanks

nippononly · May 2006

Mechanically, it was related to the same-year Tercel. Maybe there is an active thread for Tercels - perhaps you could find some help there.

peterpan · June 2006

What did you do with it?

Sounds like the cold-start sensor gone bad.

koolness_t · June 2006

I own a 2002 Celica GT with 36,000 miles on it and I have had nothing but perfect performance with it.

thenutsnut · June 2006

I'm driving to Subway to get lunch and in my residential neighbourhood for whatever reason, the city has some big hoses running from a fire hydrant to a project a few blocks away (they are digging something up, not sure what) and they are covered in ashphalt. In essence it's a big speed bump for which you have to slow down to a crawl to go over.

Well being so nice today, I had the windows open and the stereo cranking....next thing you know....BANG!!!!! Needless to say I had gone over these stupid hoses with my car. I was going about 60 Km/h (35mph). Shortly after there is a 4 way stop and I went through that no problem...phew. I keep driving a couple of seconds and slow down for a turn and when I apply moderate pressure to my brakes there is this "clunk" sound from what I think is the front of the car (not really sure though).

The car turns fine and there are no noises as far as I can tell when I turn the wheel either way. Also there is nothing leaking under the car, and looking at the undercarriage nothing seems to be hanging/out of place nor is there any sign I bottomed out. So my only problem is this clunking sound whenever I apply moderate pressure to the brakes (no sound when light pressure applied)

Update:

I took it into the shop today and told them my problems. They ended up doing a brake service which consists of inspecting and lubing the brakes. The noise is still there and they told me that they would need 1-2 hours to run diagnostics on the car to get a better idea of what the problem was. They also retorqued the subframe (whatever that means) as this is often a cause of noises after accidents. In addition, they checked underneath the car and according to them absolutely everything looks as it should. I asked if the car was safe to drive as is and he said "I can't guarantee that it is".

I decided to take the car as is and I will try another shop tomorrow to get a second opinion before forking out $160 just to have the car looked at again. Any opinions?

peterpan · July 2006

Had the same problem running over a loose tailpipe on freeway at about 70MPH.

The brake was making scraping noise and acting weak. Turned out that the impact knocked one of the pads hard to the point where it was stuck, therefore the brake was not squeezing the rotor from both sides. Replaced the pads and lubricate the pins holding the pads together. Noise was gone, brakes are perfect again.

Suggest you replace the pads first. If problem is still there, replace the rotor. It's possible one or both rotors were warped by the impact.

guitarzan · July 2006

"Inspecting and lubing the brakes".

The only way to inspect the brakes is to pull the pads out and look at them. Mechanics / brake service places make brakes out to be rocket science. The reality is they want to charge a fortune for the labor to break the calipers free and take a close look.

If the problem is with the brakes, you would feel a difference in the break pedal when the thud happens, and yea, that could be a broken/shifting pad.

Were you stepping on the brakes as you hit this object? It would explain how a brake component got bent or broken during the ordeal.

Next, I suggest an inspection by a suspension specialist. Perhaps a suspension part broke, and the suspension is shifting.

peter pan · July 2006

Anyone having car problems should buy an engine scanner. Search in Ebay for one. Should cost about $50.

You can hook it to the diagnostic connector at the driver's left knee and turn on the key without starting the car. It will read out all error codes. Referencing the error codes in the included manual, you should have a list of all defective modules in the car. It will help you troubleshoot problems logically and cost effectively.

Most scanners can also turn off the annoying 'check engine' light on the dash board, which dealers would charge $100 to do.

This scanner has saved me a lot of money and headache fixing problems on my own, or managing the repairs done by dealers or repair shops.

Good luck.

brewerk12 · August 2006

Great handling. Slow!!!! I want to speed it up but not burn more gas. Is this possible? Typical rice burner.

prana · August 2006

I recently purchased a 90' Toyoto Celica GTS. It's in great shape. One thing that needs fixing is the audio system.

When a CD or tape is put in the head unit, the sound output is faint even when the volume knob is at the highest level. When the radio is turned on at the highest level, the whole neighbourhood shakes.

Could this low output on the CD and Tape be due to a power amp on it's last legs? Should I replace it? BTW, where is the power amp located in this model?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

guitarzan · August 2006

If there is a separate amp, you'll have to search the car for it. Could be under seats or in the hatch, for instance. Otherwise there is an amp in the head unit.

I don't know a great deal about audio, but any device in the head unit would be using the same amp within the head unit. Unless there is some separate output for CD or such which doesn't sound right.

Have you considered a new head unit for $200? You'll get mp3's and such, in addition to a radio that works right.

paul_p · August 2006

Hello All,

I just bought a 1985 Celica convertible with 391,000 miles on it. The car just passed state inspection today with flying colors. Just changed the oil & filter, air filter, and spark plugs and they looked fine - plugs were not oil fouled, so I'm thinking the engine is in good shape. Just drove the car over 1,000 miles from where I bought it to get it home.

The driveline appears to have some play in it, at first I thought it was U-joints but the driveshaft seems tight. Does anyone know what I should look into, in order to tighten up the driveline? I get a clunk when I let off the gas or step on it. Car is a GT-S with 5 speed manual and 22RE 4cyl.

- P.

guitarzan · August 2006

Paul - looking at that mileage, thinking, WOW. That's awesome.

Now a clunk - Regarding the U-joints - make sure your method of analyzing them is sound. Assuming it is, how about engine mounts. That would be something that needs immediate attention.

nippononly · August 2006

my guess would also be the U-joints. IIRC, those cars had driveshafts with U-joints that couldn't be replaced separately, so when they go you have to replace the whole driveshaft - I had to do it once.
Another clunk could be the rear diff, which could be pretty worn after all those miles. 391K, fantastic! Those '82-85s were the most durable Celicas ever made.

joyrider147 · August 2006

I'm looking to buy an '83 Toyota Celica GT-S, but I'm not sure if they sell any type of high performance parts for this type of car. Can anyone tell me if there is still high performance parts for this car and are they going to be expensive since this car is rare? thank you for your input.

peterpan99 · August 2006

http://www.celicatech.com/imagearchive/bgbonline/bgb.php#7th

nippononly · August 2006

I kinda doubt there are a lot of hi-po parts for these cars any more. However, the 22RE under the hood is probably the most common engine Toyota has produced in the last quarter century, and for years and years there were shops specializing just in these engines. I am sure there are still places that could help you out in the power department.

The '83 is the one that wasn't officially a GT-S, but was labelled a GT, right? I had one for years, LOVED that car.

paul_p · August 2006

Thanks, guitarzan!

When I have doubts about why I bought the car or the long road ahead for reconditioning, I look at the mileage and know I did the right thing. I'll check the motor mounts.

Btw I'm averaging 32.4 mpg with mostly highway driving.

- Paul

paul_p · August 2006

Thanks ninppononly,

Yikes! Scary thoughts ($) about replacing the driveshaft :surprise: . This may be a dumb question, but was that really expensive? I'll make sure to rule out everything else first.

I tried to drain the differential fluid, but could not get the fill bolt undone. Had the proper socket and breaker bar, no luck. Tried WD-40, vise grips and hammer, no luck. Any ideas before I pull off the cover and take it to a shop? My last resort is to try it when the rear end is cold, did not do that yet.

- Paul

guitarzan · August 2006

Caveat: I do not know if there are any damage implications, read at your own risk.

When removing brake calipers, the only way to loosen the bolt, because the bolt is designed NOT to release, is to heat it up. The different rate of expansion between the bolt metal and caliper metal allows it to easily break loose. A simple torch on the bolt may help. I put the disclaimer up there, because, heck if I know if there is any danger of heating the differential fluid, etc.

Don't forget penetrating oil. It is different as its extremely thin consistency allows it to wick magically into any available gaps.

nippononly · August 2006

This was about eight years ago, and I made two attempts. At first I went with an aftermarket shop that specialized in that sort of thing, and they put one on that was unbalanced, so the whole car would shake in kind of a sick scary way at highway speeds. Got rid of that one QUICK!
Then I went with the OEM part - paid about $800 as I recall, including having the dealership install it for me. A LOT of money, but it was smooth after that. The aftermarket part and install was relatively cheap: about $300 as I recall. But if you do that, make sure you get one that is balanced! I am sure the shop would have fixed the problem for free, but I just didn't want to hassle with going back EIGHT times for one repair.

paul_p · September 2006

Thanks, Guitarzan - I brought the cover to a machine shop and had them use a torch, etc. They got the bolt out, 1 day and $25. later (well spent, a new cover from Toyota would have been $155). Btw I used never seez on the new bolt.

- Paul

paul_p · September 2006

Thanks, it doesn't seem as bad now - and with the cold weather coming may wait until the spring. Have to put a new top on first, as we seem to have some dampness in the trunk.

- Paul

rhorne · September 2006

I am just getting into car tuning with my 02 celica and i am going to attempt to switch the original engine out with a 2jz-gte, any guidance would be welcome. (even if it is negative, all help is welcome)

Do you think it can be done, do you know of anyone that is made a swap like this, do you know of anyone that can help. thanks a lot.

Robert

rorr · September 2006

"I am just getting into car tuning with my 02 celica and i am going to attempt to switch the original engine out with a 2jz-gte..."

Um, WHAT?

First, you ARE aware that the '02 celica is a FWD platform with an inline 4 cylinder and a transaxle, correct?

And the 2jz-gte is a twin-turbo straight-6 designed for the RWD Supra?

To begin with:

You need a driveshaft tunnel. You need space at the rear for the complete IRS rear suspension and DIFFERENTIAL. You need a completely new transmission tunnel fabricated into the floorpan to accept the tranny that goes with the 2jz-gte (somehow I doubt that your going to stick a straight-6 sideways under the hood of a Celica and have it magically bolt up to the standard transaxle).

You need to move the firewall to accound for a straight-6 pointing north-south rather than the stock motor pointing east-west. You might end up sitting in the rear seat area. Of course, you also need to change out the front suspension, redesign the steering rack and steering column , move the pedal assemblies, etc. etc. etc.

It would actually be substantially SIMPLER to get another complete Celica drivetrain, cut out the rear suspension from your car, modify the donor drivetrain to eliminate the steering mechanism, and mount the donor drivetrain into place creating a twin-engine Celica. Working out the kinks like airflow, upsized radiator to serve two engines, and shifting two transmissions in unison would probably be simpler than massaging a 2jz-gte into a modern Celica.

But since you're just getting into 'car tuning', you might want to try something a LITTLE LESS ambitious right out of the gate.....

peterpan99 · September 2006

I ran over a bunch of steel lane devider, looking like half a hemet planted on the street. The tires started making wobbling noise. The tire shop told me the wheel is bent, need straightened out.

I had the front left wheel refurbished. The wobbling tire noise is still there. The car runs OK but the wobbling noise is very annoying. It's very depressing.

Anybody had the same problem and had good solutions? The city that plants these steel lane deviders must be a bunch of [non-permissible content removed].

peterpan99 · September 2006

I scanned the car with the enginer scanner, pointing to a faulty speedometer sensor.

It turned out that the sensor was easy to replace. It sells for about $200 from dealer. It sits on top of the auto transmission in the middle of the car, slightly on the driver side.

To have access, you have to remove the battery. The sensor is below and next to the battery. Remove the electrical connector. Use a 10mm socket with long extension to loosen the only bolt that holds the sensor to the transmission.

The sensor has a white plastic gear whose shaft is held inside the sensor assembly with a E ring. Remove the E ring and pull out the gear. Reassemble in reverse order.

I just saved myself a few hundred buck of 'expert' diagosis and 'professional' gouging at the dealer.

guitarzan · September 2006

Pan, the things I am thinking about:
*The shop that reconditioned the wheel, what is the final spec? "Like new", "no noticeable bends", "no measurable bends", ??

*Is the wobbling identical to before the wheel repair?
*Is the wobbling at a specific speed, or no matter what speed? If at any speed, was a chunk taken out of the tire?
*Was the tire balanced when re-mounted?

You would probably want the wobbly tire in back, possibly until it evens out (?). It would be less noticeable, would not affect steering, torque pull, etc. "Safer"=debatable, but perhaps a mild control issue.

Was the TIRE thoroughly inspected? Maybe it has a broken belt, damaged sidewall, etc. ====> replace.

peterpan99 · September 2006

The car felt wobbly with an annoying rythmic tire noise variable with the driving speed. Tire shop says alloy wheels can be bent by impacts when hot. They are more likely to fracture when cold.

It looks like the wheel repair shop ran steel rollers around the inner edge of the wheel, in the process grinding off some thichkness of the Alum alloy. It costed $65. The other alternative is $400 for a new wheel. The used wheels in eBay probably all have some defects.

That was an expensive penalty for defying lane deviders installed by [non-permissible content removed].

The tire shop rebalanced the tire and added about 8 of the flat weights to the grinded area. They checked the wheel / tire and declared they were good. The wheel was spinned up against a hard edge. No warpage was found. No flat spots or uneven wears were found on the tire. The car now feels more stable at high speed, but the rythmic tire noise persists.

The tire shop found the right rear tire to have feathered wear. A worn strut would bounce the tire against the pavement, causing uneven, feathering wear and the rythmic tire noise. Will replace the rear struts and see what happens. They will swap the rear tires to even out the wear. I am not sure how they can swap the tires as they are directional.

When gas is over $3.00 per gallon, it makes good economic sense to have everything in good working order. Any repairs or replacements would most likely pay for themselves in a few weeks in gas savings, not to mention restoring the safety and performance of the car.

imagine2 · October 2006

We just bought a 1996 Celica GT with 93000 miles on it. There is a thumping (sounds like a flat tire) sound coming from the left rear tire area. The tires need replacing, but are not extremely worn. The car did have its 90K mile service done (timing belt(s)- water pump, etc.). What could this noise be? I searched and found some replies for CV joints, wheel bearings? Should we take it to a general mechanic (who is not Toyota mechanic, but has a great rep with friends) or go to a Toyota dealer or to a tire place? Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is our son's first car so we want to get it fixed properly. Without a definite diagnosis, do you think this is going to be a very expensive repair? Thanks again!

rorr · October 2006

Well, if the noise is coming from the rear, I don't see how it would be the CV joints (since those are associated with the front half-shafts; part of the FWD drivetrain).

It could be wheel bearings; but I had similar noises (if I understand you correctly) on my car and it was due to uneven tire wear (the rear tires were cupped or scalloped around the inside edge).

If you've got access to a general mechanic that you trust, it sounds like that would be a good source for a diagnosis. I doubt the sound is anything particularly specific to Celicas.

It's amazing how much quieter a car can be after the tires are replaced. However, IF the tires are the problem (due perhaps to uneven wear), you might want to find out from the mechanic what caused the uneven wear. With a car that age, you may have a worn shock absorber which allows the tire to bounce up and down unnecessarily causing uneven wear.

I hope this helps.

imagine2 · October 2006

Well, our mechanic said the noise was from 4 badly worn out tires. We also need both the front axles replaced. Oh well, we got such a great deal on the car itself, we don't mind having to pay a bit to get it right! Now to replace the tires- what are the best /safest ( a mom talking here) tires to put on his car but keeping in his budget which is less than $100 per tire? Thanks so much for the help thus far!

rorr · October 2006

Not unusual to have to replace CV joints (particularly on a 10-yr old car). If the rest of the car is fine mechanically, your son should be happy.

Tires - you might want to check tirerack.com. According to tirerack, the original size tire on the '96 Celica GT was a 205/55-15. Fortunately, you got LOTS of choices in that size. I don't know if you need something to handle snow or just a good all-season would do.

If an all-season is fine, you might consider the Yokohama AVID V4S. These have good wet traction and a pretty good wear rating and are supposed to be pretty quiet. They are not the best for all out dry traction but most tires with excellent dry traction will sacrifice somewhat their wet weather abilities and/or tire life (due to a softer compound). Tirerack lists these tires at $72 each and they are pretty common so you should be able to find them at a local store (try Discount tire).

peterpan99 · October 2006

You may want to try Kumho ECSTA ASX all-season. About $80 per tire with 80,000-mile tread life. Kumhos generally have good consumer ratings.

I dont know if Kumho makes this tire in your size. However, the larger sizes are just as responsive as the Yokohama Advan, but quieter and last about 4 times longer.

All my children's cars have all season tires so they wont spin the car in the very rare rainy days in hot and dry California.

I have seen a brand-new Infinity sport coupe spun around in medium rain, smashed into freeway concrete divider, while driving at abut 60 MPH, right in front of me on straight, level and wide open freeway. The driver was in complete shock, unable to back the car out of oncoming traffic.

Just think how easy it would be to spin the car off twisty mountain roads in rain or snow.

peterpan99 · October 2006

The thumping noise, if happens when driving over bump, is likely to be a weak or leaky strut bottoming out on impact.

My older Celica GTS had the same problem after 85K miles. I replaced the rear struts and the thumps are gone. The car feels firmer, quieter, much smoother, and more stable at high speed, like 90 MPH on rough freeways.

The OEM struts at Toyota dealer are strangely cheaper than after- market brands. The dealer told me to hang on to the receipt, as he believes they come with life-time warranty. I just hope his belief is bigger than the General Manager's when I have to replace them again.

The OEM struts cost about $200 for the pair plus $70 installation at my local tire store. The guy was moaning that he lost beaucoup money, since he had to remove a few interior panels to install them.

imagine2 · October 2006

Peter, We did actually purchase the Kuomho ECSTA ASX all season tires for the car. I found them from the site mentioned, tirerack.com for 63.00 a piece, which I thought was a great deal. The car runs so nicely now. Turns out the other tires were so bad the cord was showing through! That itself probably made the sound on the pavement! Thanks again for everyone's help. I hope he gets lots of miles and enjoyment out of this car. It sure looks and feels like a keeper now.

imablond87 · October 2006

I own girlfriend also owns a gts celica. I had to replace the clutch plate at the same time that pattio did. The output shaft assembly, 4 bearings, and 1st and 6th gear also were just replaced at 37,000 miles. I am trying to get in touch with other 2002-2005 gts celica owners to see if they have been experiencing the same problems. My e-mail is imablond87@sbcglobal.net

rorr · October 2006

Is this a widespread problem on the '02 to '05 models? What did Toyota change in the 6sp manual from the '00 models?

I've got an '00 Celica GTS w/ the 6spd with 140k miles on the odo. Original clutch; the only problems with the tranny is that it is somewhat balky about the 5-4 downshift. Otherwise, it's still fine.

bottgers · October 2006

What kind of fuel economy do they get? Do they live up to the Toyota standard of reliability? Is there anything about the car I should know before buying one?

imablond87 · October 2006

In 2002 there were a few changes to the celica that I know of. The engine redline was set at 7,800, the manual six speed recieved a drive by wire throttle, and a 17" tire was added as an option. I saw something about a transmission change for the 17" tire, which is what my car has, but I can't find the article again. I imagine there would have to be some type of a drivetrain modification to allow for the change in torque loading resulting from the larger tire.

rorr · October 2006

Engine redline was always at 7,800 rpm. The only thing that Toyota did was revise the point at which the fuel cutoff occurs. I've got one of the earlier cars with the higher fuel cutoff point...

I wasn't aware of the drive-by-wire throttle. And honestly, I'm not sure why a 17" rim would require a drivetrain modification. I'm assuming (but don't know) that a lower profile tire would have been used keeping approximately the same outside tire diameter as the 16" setup. Perhaps with a (very) slightly taller tire, Toyota used a shorter final drive ratio to compensate? (But then what about those cars with the standard 16" rims?).

I do know that at some point (perhaps with the '02 models), Toyota revised the shifter somewhat because a few owners, when attempting a 5-4 downshift where doing a 5-2 downshift instead (at highway speeds) resulting in overrevving the engine. Beyond the shifter modifications, I don't know of any other changes Toyota made to the 6-sp tranny.

Have you checked to see if Toyota has issued any TSB's regarding the '02-'05 Celicas?

bottgers · October 2006

...in response to post #1418.

rorr · October 2006

Well, I don't have a GT so I can't comment on the fuel economy.

With my GTS, it had no problem getting around 32 or so on the highway (maybe a bit more if kept below warp speed

).

I've noticed that as my car got over 120k the mileage has dropped off. I now get around 27-28 in a 50/50 mix of city/hwy. I'm not sure what the GT might get in relation to my GTS.

Reliability has been decent on my car. I had to replace an O2 sensor at around the 40k mark and had a water pump bearing failure at around 130k. The original radio head unit ate one of my favorite CDs a few years back. And I had to replace one of the ignition coils and another O2 sensor last year (can't remember the mileage). Beyond that, I can't recall anything beyond the normal maintenance items (still has the original rotors and clutch). I've noticed that the 6-spd trans is getting a bit 'notchy', particularly when trying to downshift into 4th gear(although upshifts into 4th are fine). But I blame that on a particularly brutal day in the car at Texas World Speedway in College Station a couple of years ago when I ran 6 separate 20 minute sessions on their road course (I noticed the problem downshifting into 4th right after that day).

All in all, it's been fairly reliable although it's starting to definitely show it's age. If I can just get over my LATEST case of 'newcaritis' then I hope to keep it to the 200k mark.

nippononly · October 2006

Well, I can tell you about my '02 GT that I had for not very long - I got a major case of "new car-itis" when the Matrix came out, and only ended up keeping the Celica 9 months and 17K miles. I also found it a little bit uncomfortable - the seats are sport seats and the car is low to the ground, as you know.

But OK: fuel economy? I averaged 31-32 mpg in commuting and around-town driving, maybe 35 out on the interstate driving to L.A., and even when I spent a good portion of the tank just driving for fun, it hardly ever dipped below 30. That was a 5-speed manual. I tend to drive in a way that maximizes fuel economy when I am just running errands and going back and forth to work, so YMMV!

Reliability? Mine was assembled poorly in one respect: the driver's window was misaligned, allowing cascades of water inside the car at the car wash. I had that fixed double-quick. After shaking out the initial build blues, however, it gave me no problems at all in the short time I had it.

Anything you should know? This car has PHENOMENALLY bad outward visibility - it is very low to the ground, the windows are slits, the C-pillars are HUGE, and that spoiler on the back end....well, all I can say is, try to get one without the spoiler.
Apart from that, it's not especially fast off the line, but has better handling than anything I have ever driven under $25K, except the Mini Cooper. That includes my RSX I had more recently. The downside is the car tends to be a bit jittery over bad pavement, especially at high speeds.
That fixed antenna is a PITA at car washes, has to be unscrewed and removed so it doesn't get broken. From what I remember when I had the car, a lot of people were trading the fixed mast for one of those short flexible antennas from the parts store. Alternatively, one person changed it out for the power antenna that Toyota put in the GTS beginning in 2003/4 (I forget which). I imagine that swap would be difficult.

It's a very likeable car with an engine that will very likely turn out to be one of Toyota's better ones in the last 20 years. Meaning I am sure that if you find one that has been well taken care of, it will probably go years and years without giving you any trouble.

ann961 · October 2006

I too have a 2000 Celica GT... I don't know if you have found your answer about your burning oil problem... or if you were able to get Toyota to help you. If you have gotten a resolution I'd love to hear it. My Toyota started burning oil around 60,000 miles. I never saw any leakage and couldn't tell if it was burning it. I've had to put a quart of oil in it every 600 to 1000 miles, which has gone down to every 600 to 700 or so miles. When I was able to afford Toyota to check it out... I was told it had bad valve seals. So, I could pay $2000 for new seals that would last 50,000 miles or $5800 for a new mini block. I then found out later that This was a manufacture defect that they never recalled. Toyota only fixed the problem for the newer Celicas. I love my car and I want to keep it.. I was planning on keeping it for at least 200,000 plus miles, since it's a Toyota I knew I had reliability on my side... I don't think I do now. My car has 135,000 miles on it now but I want to know what the long term affects are from the oil problem will cause to rest of car. So, please, I'd love to hear what you have to say and if you ended up with a resolution. I am trying to see how far I can go to see If I can get Toyota to fix it since it's their problem and I'm spending a lot of money on oil.

rorr · October 2006

You have me confused with someone else.

I have a 2000 model GTS - with NO oil consumption problems (and with 140k on the odo).

ann961 · November 2006

I too have a 2000 Celica GT... I don't know if you have found your answer about your burning oil problem... or if you were able to get Toyota to help you. If you have gotten a resolution I'd love to hear it. My Toyota started burning oil around 60,000 miles. I never saw any leakage and couldn't tell if it was burning it. I've had to put a quart of oil in it every 600 to 1000 miles, which has gone down to every 600 to 700 or so miles. When I was able to afford Toyota to check it out... I was told it had bad valve seals. So, I could pay $2000 for new seals that would last 50,000 miles or $5800 for a new mini block. I then found out later that This was a manufacture defect that they never recalled. Toyota only fixed the problem for the newer Celicas. I love my car and I want to keep it.. I was planning on keeping it for at least 200,000 plus miles, since it's a Toyota I knew I had reliability on my side... I don't think I do now. My car has 135,000 miles on it now but I want to know what the long term affects are from the oil problem will cause to rest of car. So, please, I'd love to hear what you have to say and if you ended up with a resolution. I am trying to see how far I can go to see If I can get Toyota to fix it since it's their problem and I'm spending a lot of money on oil.
I would really like to know how to get ahold of the Toyota home office... I would love your help.

guitarzan · November 2006

http://www.toyota.com/about/contact/index.html?s_van=GM_TN_CONTACT

This is easily found from Toyota.com/about toyota. Good luck.

teejay76 · November 2006

Just to add additional testimony on the 2000 Celica GT oil consumption issue. I have an 00' celica that burns about 1.5 to 2 quarts between oil changes. Dealer recommends 5000 miles but I go about 4000-4500 miles. I brought this issue up to my dealer and they told me they couldn't find any leaks nor offer any explanations to what is happening to my oil.At 98,000 miles I had a CEL which they scoped and I was told that I had a bad mass air flow sensor.
Now at 111,000 miles I had the water pump changed and had the car scoped again because of another "CEL" and they told me it was a warning that my Catalytic converter was failing.
Coincedence or not I seem to share some of the same problems, but other than that my celica runs like new and these are the only problems I've ever had, surprisingly since I put on about 500 miles a week commuting to work.

miah1mum · January 2007

Wondered if anyone knew where to find a baby car seat that actually fits properly in the back of a celica. Does anyone know of a list that tells you which ones are suitable.
Be grateful for any help.

Toyota Celica (Hatchbacks / All Years)

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