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Comments
As for grinding gears, try a full synthetic gear oil in the transaxle. That made a big difference for me. This is something you can easily do yourself for about $25, check the owner forums on other websites for how-to instructions. Having said that, I'm not totally sold on the Toyota manuals for robustness, but I have over 180,000 miles on my 2000 GTS and only occasional problems with the synchros. The 6 speed seems to dislike fast shifts at high rpms, but for 99% of normal driving, it's been fine. Good luck.
The answer to your question is practice, practice, practice. What you will do is develop a feel for the car under different driving conditions. You will become the expert how you will drive the car.
Some examples to get you going:
1) Stopped at a traffic light, going down hill.
-You can start in 2nd gear, accelerating lightly. You can quickly move to fourth or fifth gear, depending on how steep the hill is.
2) Starting the car going up a hill.
- You will keep the car in first gear longer than usual to get the car going, and not skip any gears like you can do going down a hill.
3) Racing on flat ground
-You will let the clutch out faster than usual, and give it more gas than usual.
The things to practice with everything you do - letting the clutch out at different rates, and giving it different amounts of gas.
I drove home in my new 1993 Integra on the freeway after only having driven a stick around a parking lot. You are in the same boat. Spend time practicing driving. Turn down the radio. Turn off all distractions. Listen to the engine, listen to the tires, smell for a burning clutch, get a feel for driving comfortably with no jerking, and for driving aggressively when all you want is to push the car to its limits. It will take a long time, but be well worth the effort. And obviously, you are interested in becoming a good stick driver.
1. The Porsche has a turbo-charged 3.6L flat 6, with 5-speed automatic transmission. RPM goes up to 6700 max. When you drive past 3000 RPM, the turbo charger kicks in and you can feel being pushed back against the seat. At 3000 RPM on 5th gear, the car cruises at about 80 MPH.
2. The car has much more HP than the Celica GTS. The engine revs up quickly when you step on the accelerator. You can accelerate even in 5th gear. The rear engine is very noisy, but not anywhere as noisy as the Lamborghini Gallardo or Murcielago. The best fun in this car is being able to very quickly zip away from the rest of the traffic at stop signs.
3. The leather seats are a lot stiffer than all other brands. The stitching on the leather steering wheel cover is so coarse, it hurts my grips in long trips. The paddle shift switches are in front of the steering wheel, the top is up shift, the bottom, down shift. When you steer the column upside down the up/down shift positions are reversed. It's the same in MBZ. Ony Toyota/Lexus has down shift in front and up shift in the back of the steering wheel, regardless where you steer.
4. The tachometer is central in the instrument cluster. The speedometer is smaller, in the left corner and goes up to 225 MPH. The speeds are marked in small white, closely-spaced numbers. 75 to 100 MPH is represented by a 2/3 inch gap. It's difficult to differentiate if you are cruising at 80 or 90 or 95 MPH to avoid speeding tickets. It does have a digital speed indicator at the bottom of the tachometer. The 5-gear indicators are small , closely-spaced numbers with small red LED, very difficult to see and get used to.
5. This car is fun zipping around town at low speed, but at high speed, the ride is punishingly harsh, even on the best stretches of freeways. It bounces around a lot even over rminor road bumps. The front end was bopping around so much over bumps that I did not feel I had good control of the car too many times.
6. The control forces for steering, gas and brake are medium, much softer compared to MBZ sports cars. The car is probably much heavier than the Celica GTS. You can zip around and change lanes quickly but the chassis does not respond as quickly and stably in quick and tight turns like the GTS. The chassis sometimes bops around unpredictably in tight turns or quick lane changes. I did not have much feel for the road even with its very taut suspension. That feel may have to be developed with the car over time.
7. Tire noise and road noise are high, especially driving over lane divider bumps. Engine noise is high too. This car is fun for short drive, zipping around town, but there would be no fun, almost a punishment, driving anywhere over half hour with it.
8. In comparison, the Celica GTS is quicker, livelier, smoother, more controllable, quieter and a lot more fun in short and long trips, over most road conditions.
Thanks for the Apple-to-Apple comparison. I was cross shopping b/w a Porsche 911 Turbo and a used Celica GTS and wonder which one is better for me.
Who and how do I go about finding someone who would be able to come out and look at my car to give a quote to do the work? Is there a directory of people who do older car restorations? I live in New Jersey, on the shore.
Thanks so much.
-Jessica
I have a friend selling a '92 Legend for about that same amount. Any time anything went wrong, he fixed it. From a distance it looks pristine, and has zero mechanical problems because he always fixed things. However, something little always needs attention. Rust is attacking many areas of the car from the inside out. Tires need checking because the wheels are old, beat up, and leak. Yep, that engine and tranny may run forever. But think about other potential problems.
These types of cars are perfect for a first time driver. As soon as you buy it, anything can break, you have to accept that.
Compare this car to other cars selling for a similar price. Sounds like there is some emotional attachment to this car. If you cannot find something else that has a much better reason to buy it, go for the Celica.
--guitarzan
Thank you, :confuse:
What could be causing my car not to start? Currently my starter,battery, alternator, ignition connections grounds are good so what could be the problem could it be a certain relay fuse or which one? They have been checked and also my timing belt was checked but it has been difficult trying to determine what is the problem. It seems electrical but I am so confused and I do not want to loose my celica they I have been keeping up with the maintenance promptly. Could someone possibly give me advise on how to go about resolving my celicas starting problem or maybe a part or what can fix my starting problem?
Thank you,
The most effective way to sort out a problem of this type is to simplify it by narrowing down the probabilities into the smallest possible number of areas. The first thing to do is to find out what the symptoms are: Does the engine crank at a normal speed when you turn the key to the start position. You probably remember what it used to sound like when you started it, when it previously ran normally. Does the starter still sound like it usually did; or does the motor now turn over very slowly or barely at all, or does the starter not make any sound when you turn the key, except for a click or a series of clicks?
If it turns over at a normal speed, then you can assume the battery and the starter are OK. But if the starter does not sound like it used to, or does not make any sound at all, then you need to first thoroughly test the battery. The battery can only be properly checked with a load tester, which draws a similar amount of power as the starter does. Just using a voltmeter or a hydrometer will, in some cases, give misleading results. Some auto parts stores will test batteries for free. Another way to test the battery is to turn on the headlights, and have someone watch them while you try to start the engine. If the headlights get substantially dimmer when you crank the engine, then the battery is weak. If the lights stay bright, but the starter does not make any sound when you try to start the motor, then I would suspect a defective starter.
If the starter works normally, then the next thing to do is to determine whether you have a spark or a fuel supply problem. This is done by lifting one of the spark plug wires off of its spark plug, and connecting it to a clean spark plug that is not in the engine. Place the threaded part of that plug so that it presses against the metal of the engine, and watch it carefully while someone cranks the starter. If you need to hold the plug in place; use a wooden stick, or a plastic rod. WHILE YOU CRANK THE STARTER, DO NOT TOUCH THE SPARK PLUG OR PLUG WIRE WITH YOUR BODY OR WITH ANYTHING MADE OF METAL. You could get a very painful shock from the electricity. If the ignition system and distributor is working properly, there should be a series of blue sparks which jump between the spark plug electrodes while the engine is being cranked. If there is only a very weak spark, or no spark at the plug, then this is usually caused by a problem in the distributor cap, the rotor, the coil, the igniter, or the ignition pick up unit. In rare cases, the problem might be in the wiring harness, or in the computer. These items should be tested and confirmed by someone who knows how to test these parts.
If there is a strong spark at the plug, then the problem is most likely coming from the engine not getting any (or enough) fuel. This can be confirmed by disconnecting the air intake hose from the throttle body, and spraying some starting fluid into the throttle body while the accelerator is held down. It is valuable insurance to keep a fire extinguisher nearby, while you use starting fluid. The engine could backfire. After spraying the starting fluid, try to start the engine. If it fires at all, or now tries to start, that means it wasn't starting because you have a fuel supply problem. That could be caused by a clogged fuel filter, or a fuel pump which has stopped working.
These tests should give you enough information to get a clearer sense of where, and possibly what, the problem is. Feel free to write again, if you need further guidance. Good luck to you. Celicas are great cars!
Joel
I greatly appreciate your helpful inforrmation which helped me sleep well last night.
Thank you,
D.A.
I would like to thank you in advance for your cooperation.
Joel
Joel I would like to thank you in advance for your prompt and accurate information.
Have a good Day,
Deborah
If the symtoms remain the same then the battery is OK. Dont have to replace it.
If the engine cranks but will not start, then the distributor may be broken or wet, or the cap may be worn out or broken. Just open up the cap can clean all contacts. If there are any cracks on the cap, the engine will not start.
Thanks,
Deborah
Leave the stick in P or N and try to wiggle it around while starting, sometimes it will move the switch enough to start the starter.
The same problem happened with a BMW 740 which left the owner desparate and destittute, replacing just about all modules in the ignition circuit without fixing the problem. He adjusted the transmission switch and all is fine.
There are lots of horror stories involving BMW's electrical systems. Toyota has much better electrical systems designs, mateirials and workmanship.
I asked about the belt life and the service advisor asked about the car's mileage. I moved a few years ago, and now I am putting very little mileage on the car. Apparently the belt is not getting exercised enough. I also think it is possible that the battery is not getting charged during the short trips and this contributed to an early death.
I think after six months I should remember to charge the battery fully, and perhaps that will help extend its life. I do not have much time for other things, and do not think I will have time for freeway trips just for the sake of exercising the car...
Nowadays I spend very little on gasoline but am making up for the cost with other repairs.
When tires were new, the ride was fairly quiet, cornering was quick.
After 10K miles, the tires are very noisy and harsh.
The new BF Goodrich Super G Force tires are softer but much quieter, probably will last longer too.
Thanks.
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~C8000~R0~OD~N/0/89012112/92870401
Sorry file too large to email.
Also check www.ALLNEWCELICA.ORG
The GTS engine, transmission, steering, braking, suspension and overall system dynamics are just pure high-performance. The RSX has no electronic auto trans, so you have to push the stick to shift. Kind of lame.
At least to me, the Celica's ergonomics is superior than the RSX. The Celica seats fit drivers better and are far more comfortable.
Unclean burn also leaves residues in exhaust sensors, lighting up sensors' warnings. Typically the Catalytic converter sensor would warn of low cleaning efficiency.
High-octane fuel would cost may be 10% more, but you should get at least 10% higher mileage out of it. Also, Toyota engineers know what the car must run on. If it could run on cheaper fuel, they would already specify it in.
Every time I deviated from MFR recommendations, I got unknown problems later on.
When doing current draw tests; it is important to bear in mind that the vehicle's computer is designed to draw a constant small current (less than 60 milliamps) at all times; to preserve the computer's volatile memory data. So you're always going to see at least that much of a draw. This computer draw will run the battery down in about 6 weeks to 3 months of storage; on a vehicle with no electrical problems. So it is just not like the good old days; when batteries held a charge much longer..
The brake lights, cigarette lighter, possibly the radio, the security system, the 4 way flashers, interior lights (including the glove box light) and the headlights are the most likely suspects. Also, any add on electrical accessories might be connected to be live when the key is off.
Another very common source of such drains is a shorted diode in the alternator. You can test for this while the ammeter is connected by disconnecting the heavy power cable to the alternator (being very careful to not let the metal teminal on the cable touch any metallic objects), and seeing whether that stops the drain. If it does; the alternator must be replaced. There is an epedemic of badly remanufactured alternators and starters on the market. I have become so fed up with having to remove and return newly purchased defective rebuilt alternators that I now only buy alternators and starters from NAPA parts stores. And I have none of those problems anymore.
Turn on the headlights; if the lights are dim or do not work; you'll need to have the battery charged. If the lights come on; try to start the car and see whether the lights dim or go out. If the lights dim or go out when trying the starter; the battery needs to be charged, or the battery cable clamps need to be removed and thoroughly cleaned. A tapered reamer type cable service tool is the best tool for this. And some almost invisible corrosion on battery cable clamps and posts will totally prevent the starter from running.
If the lights stay bright at a time when the starter does not work; there is a relay called a starter relay, which is usually the problem. Despits what you have heard from the rumor mill; Toyota starters are some of the most long lasting and reliable starters in the industry. Burn marks notwithstanding.
Years ago the moonroof was completely scratched up, and was completely fogged over by the free gas station car wash years ago. I did not know the effects of that big nylon bristle brush until 1 minute too late. I thought the moonroof would have to be replaced at a high cost, so I let it go. Since everything seemed to get fixed lately, I decided to investigate this. I bought the 3M Headlight Restoration kit. I started sanding the moonroof with the 300 grit, and had an "oh crap" moment. I did not really know if the severe sanding I had just done could be rubbed out. So I went through the next 4 steps on the area I had touched, and it ended up looking pretty good. I then applied only the last two steps (a gray buff pad and rubbing compound) to the rest of the moonroof. The result? a couple stains are left, and there are minor swirl marks throughout. But the entire piece is see-through again, and has something like 80% clarity. I could have sanded out the remnants of stains from bird droppings, and worked more on the swirl marks. However, I only have a 550 RPM drill. I think some of the swirls are left because of this - the slow drill grabbed the surface a little too much. So the result is a moonroof that looks decent and the small flaws resemble the rest of the ten year old car and would not stick out to anyone else.
I would recommend the 3M kit to anyone for this purpose. I was terrified of sanding something on the car, but the kit works for the late-model plastic moonroof, and worked fine for a newbie with a slower drill, but lots of time and patience.
The headlight lenses are a little fogged up, and since I had the kit out I applied the last stage of rubbing compound to the lens that was in the worse condition. After 1 minute, it looked better than the other lens. I repeated on the good lens. I am sure if I took the time to use all of the stages that the headlamps would look like brand new.
A remaining "problem" - The fiberglass parts are de-laminating. My opinion is that Toyota used a clearcoat on the plastic, and the clearcoat expands at a different rate than the plastic part and the paint. This would explain bubbling on the side-mirrors, and near total de-lamination of the top of the spoiler. The bumpers have some spider cracks in them at this point. If you are not in a snowy climate you might never see something like this. If the heat alone in your area has the same bad effect, I would be curious to know about it.
I could buy a new wing, front and rear bumpers, and perhaps paint them black. Most of the cost is labor of installation, so I it would probably be the right thing to do to buy new materials rather than re-use the old ones. In terms of color I think a match to the original red is futile and I think the car would look out of place if new paint on the plastics was too different a red tone from the rest of the metal paint. I do not have a good reason to address this today, so this repair will just be hanging out in the back of my mind.
The car has new Bridgestone Blizzak's as of last winter, and new Bridgestone Potenza RE760's, the only 16" Summer Tire that Tirerack had.
I can't complain - the car sounds and drives like brand new. Perhaps I will get a set of red customized mats from floor mat express sometime. I'm sick of paying $90 or so for factory mats that just shred like a chew toy with normal use.
End Car Rant
However; if the belt tension is adjusted too tight; that will significantly shorten the life of the water pump bearings. So will using low quality coolant, or using coolant mixed with tap water (rather than the distilled water recommended by Toyota), or using coolant mixed in less than 40% proportion. Some coolant available today comes pre-mixed with 50% water. If you bought that type of coolant; and then mixed it with equal amounts of water; it would shorten the life of the water pump.
Some aftermarket water pump brands do not meet Toyota's quality standards. These pumps will not last as long as the original part.
I thought the heat the engine produces may be greater as a result of the compression, and strain the pump more, but I was just guessing. More along the lines of your suggestion of a fast throttle response, the response of this motor is huge, and I think the peak power is at 8400 RPM. So is the problem as straightforward as the pressure on the pump's parts during fast acceleration through the high RPM range?
2ZZ-GE Power Graph
Neither the dealer nor my new mechanic were surprised at 40,000 mile replacements for the water pump. Apparently I was the only one saying, "What the heck people????*@($))!#^! This is one cool car, and spectacular engine, but a handful of things have been somewhat quirky!
I originally suspected belt tensioner problems for this model, but I was probably unduly scared by a TSB that exists for it. The mechanics, both Toyota and independent had no concerns about particular problems with the tensioner.
The first pump replacement was OEM and done by Toyota. With its short life, and the cost of repairs at Toyota getting out of hand for a 10-year old car, I went with another mechanic. I do not know if he used an OEM part or not, but for the low cost I am fine with either and would consider an aftermarket pump to be a neat experiment at this point.
Up until now I always had flushes done at the dealer, which I trusted for various reasons, so I think they would follow the recommendations for coolant and water. At what point in history did the car companies figure out that minerals in water caused problems in the engine, and start recommending distilled water?
The article also goes into detail on the many different rev limits which were used on different model applications for this motor. The article states that your particular motor is rev limited at between 7,900 and 8,200; depending on model year. You may notice that the dyno graph you posted shows the stock 2ZZ-GE motor having a power peak of 162 Hp@7500 RPM.
In general; motors which are tuned to run at high RPM generate LESS cooling system heat than similar motors tuned for lower speeds. But heat would not be an issue in a water pump failure, anyway. Now that I realize this motor was designed by Yamaha; I am not surprised at the pump failures (nor the lift bolt failures). Yamaha has always been known for focussing their efforts on power; and compromising on quality control and long term reliability. Considering the number of oil pump failures in this motor when running at very high RPMs; I would say that the low RPM limit on your motor is a blessing in disguise.
To make possible the high-rev and quick response, this head was designed with a hollow cam shaft with 2 sets of lobes. It also has many linear moving parts, like valve stems, made with Titanium instead of steel to reduce moving mass.
The engine in Lexus LF-A also has a Yamaha head with similar concepts.
It's no longer my primary car, but I still use it regularly for commuting and trips to the dog park. So, I rarely take the fancy valvetrain into high lift territory anymore, which I'm sure would be speeding up the wear and tear on everything.
I'm not a huge fan of these variable lift valve systems like Honda's VTEC (and this one) because they tend to look better on paper than they drive on the street. They make for an exciting test drive. But after the honeymoon is over you still have to get to work at normal speeds, get groceries, and all that other mundane stuff. It's like choosing someone to marry--the hot first dates are not always the ones you want to be stuck living with in five years. Many times I have wished for an extra 10 lb-ft of torque at the low end, rather than that extra 40hp on the top end, which I can almost never use. But, at least it seems durable enough in normal use.
I also felt the 6-speed was a good short-term girlfriend, and that a 5-speed would be more appropriate for this car's power curve. But after ten years I still look at this car as very unique, especially compared to the variety of cars that are out there today.
I definitely agree with your statement about the VVT. I very rarely go over 6k RPM nowadays. Frankly, I should go over more often, just to allow the engine to "stretch its legs."
I tend to get a fairly lousy 20 mpg, though my driving is entirely stop and go, including through parking garages with stop signs every 10 feet. My other big complaint is that serpentine belt / tensioner / whatever is causing that annoying whinnying noise. I've had the TSB performed several years ago, but the noise seems to come back and require re-servicing / replacement about annually.
I would not want to try messing around with baby seats in the rear of a Celica. Get something with four doors. When the baby turns 18, you are entitled to your midlife crisis car and you can get whatever you want then. Hopefully someone will still be making a car with a manual transmission in 2029.
My experience with MPG is the same as Gambit. From day one I have gotten about 27-29 MPG. I have been using the AC constantly this summer and I think the number is closer to 25 MPG as a result.
You can replace the lamp fairly easily. Not sure how much the dealers charge, probably $200 for 2 hours labor plus $25 for the lamp. You can thus save money with this 20-minute procedure:
1. Drive the car's front wheels up a ramp, could be 3 2x4" studs nailed together for about 5 more inches of clearance.
2. Undo the plastic bottom cover near the fog lamp, 2 bolts and a few plastic snap ons.
3. While pulling the cover down, insert your hand behind the fog lamp module, twist CCW a round cap which is concentric and behind the fog lamp lens.
4. Reach inside the lamp module, undo a wire spring latch and remove the lamp.
5. Pull the lamp's terminal from its socket.
6. Install the new lamp in reverse order, take care not to touch the halogen bulb as finger grease will crack the lamp early. Rotate the lamp base until it seats properly in the cavity and secure the spring latch. Also good but optional to add a little contact grease to the lamp terminal before inserting it in socket.