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The wax idea is cool too....
I really wanted to get stick, but I had a bad car accident a few years back and my ankles/legs were broken (yes both pairs). I'm always afraid I'm going to have more problems with my left foot again, and driving stick would just aggravate my ankle more I think, so I went with auto.
For my next paycheck I think I'll be upgrading the audio system (I got the standard because I knew I was just going to go get a better one anyway), and possibly getting a TRD exhaust system or some other type of mod. Any ideas? Keep in mind I'm fairly car-illiterate...
BTW thanks to everyone on the board, you made my car buying experience much easier. Same goes for Edmunds in general. See ya on the open road!
Know the size of the pan plug? Previous Toyotas I've done were...hmmm...15mm was it?
We took off both of the underguards. Don't know if you can get around them or not, but we decided to take 'em off.
Don't remember the bolt size. Something like 14-15-16 mm.
1. Break it in easy for the first 100 miles (vary speed, no jackrabbit starts, nothing over 65-70 mph).
2. After the first 1000 miles, put the hammer down. I mean, drive it HARD. You will be rewarded with quicker throttle response and a much faster car than the one you started with.
Trust me on this one. 1ZZs don't really break in for about 5000 miles, and get another kick in the pants after about 10k.
My only frustration is the automatic tranny -- it shifts way too lazy for a sports coupe, and unfortunately the shift linkage is no longer adjustable.
Dogone it if not having a job keeps my oil clean and only 2,000 miles on my baby
Last summer, my GT auto was only 1/2 yrs. old, and had <10K miles on it. The city mpg was running about 24-26, and I could get only 34-35 mpg on interstate. I was really disappointed, because if it would be as efficient as my Grand Marquis it should give me ~27/40 mpg for city/highway (recalculated for its power/weight/drag coef).
This summer I have 15Kmiles on engine, and things have changed. I now get 28-30 mpg in city, and yesterday I measured 39+ mpg on interstate, with AC off, made 330 miles with 8.4 gallons of regular. First hour I had to drive at 45-65 mph as there were a lot of construction (Chicago area), and then I had steady 74 mph for the rest of my trip.
Brenda
What you may be thinking of is, you can't order the keyless remote entry without the alarm, you have to get both together. Which is why I didn't order it -- I wanted the keyless entry, but not the alarm. So I got one installed afterwards, just the keyless entry.
Brenda
On my Integra, my best friend and I bought a kit from Sears for $35 or so...we wired a brand new power antenna to the radio. Amazing how simple it was. The worst part was tucking the wire underneath the plastic running alongside the interior, and past the driver.
I regret not getting the GT for the better mileage and 20% lower fuel cost, but some of the figures stated here seem to rival the Toyota Echo. I actually wish I purchased the Solara - much better ride, comfortable and quiet, and the 4 cyl Solara is just as quick as the Celica GTS auto, the 6 cyl must easily exceed the GTS auto, probably the 6 speed. Best of all, the 4 cyl Solara gets about the same mileage as the GTS auto and costs less (until the convertible roof is added).
It works okay, but the guy didn't install the feature that lets you unlock just the driver door or all doors like using the key in the driver's side door does. Also, if you lock the doors with the power lock button, the remote doesn't unlock them in that case (though that may be an installation goof-up).
Of course he didn't make the "trunk" button do anything because there is no trunk popper to activate--which was the main reason I got the thing in the first place.
As for 20% lower fuel cost, it's only 20 cents a gallon difference out here, and with the cheap stuff costing $1.30 to $1.80 (depending on how far the price is jacked up) that's not 20%. But I too probably should've gotten the GT, since I don't push the engine hard enough to benefit from the extra power very often.
My advice: drive a lesser car from time to time so you can appreciate the Celica better. I thought my acceleration from a stop was poor, until I realized how much better it does shifting at 5000 RPMs compared to flooring my wife's 4 cylinder Contour...
I test drove a Solara, liked it much better than the Accord coupe, but had already discarded it in favor of a 2000 Maxima SE when the first Celicas became available. The Celica styling fit me much better, and it really is a different driving experience from the Solara and even the Maxima, yet wasn't as rev-happy as the "all I wanna do is engine brake" Prelude I tried.
Plus it's my third silver hatchback (83? Celica, 90 Probe, 00 Celica).
The 21 mpg your brother gets look like for the older model CV (<92), I used to drive CV '81, and I had 20-21 mpg (highway) with that ship until it was 16 yrs. old. I guess there is something wrong with your brother's CV, or it is not just highway drive. It is questionable if low mpg is considered as something to be fixed under warranty. They always add some fine-print text. For example, my Celica's sticker shows huge number 34 mpg for highway, and then below there is fine print saying that this car gets in average 30-40 mpg on highway (or something like that). So that you could not complain if it is below 34.
As for the GT mpg - I was getting low numbers (~24-26/34-35 mpg) until this summer when I got to ~15Kmiles. I always calculate city mpg when refueling, and now it is always 28-30. The high way mpg is based only on one 330 miles trip, so I would say it is 39, give a take a mile or two. You must, of course, take into account that city mpg is hard to compare as it depends heavily on the number of stops per mile and your average speed.
Friend of mine just got a brand new Echo and he gets 38 mpg highway. I guess next year he will get >40.
Brenda
Anywhere from 27-32 usually.
I think I can get away with regular.
I would imagine it takes 91, although 89 may be okay. I certainly wouldn't put 87 in it, because it has higher compression than the GT, and I run 89 in mine.
It sounds like some of you guys should have gotten either a solara or accord instead. Why the change of heart? I seen a lot of GT's on the road lately. I guess a lot of people just bought it just for looks. The GT to GTS ratio is probably around 15:1 here in North Jersey. I thought about buying an Accord, but it is not as fast as the GT-S manual nor handles as well. Sure the accord is quiet, but the car serves a different purpose.
Oh, wait until about 900-1000 miles before driving it hard! It's difficult to wait, but worth it in the long run.
Anyone know the problems in trying to get the alternate cam activated earlier, other than the problem of circumventing the original programming?
What are the combustion/operation repercussions?
After posting a big post, I deleted it...now realizing---this would be a final gear change wouldn't it?
How about this: Will the increased rpms cut down your engine life? Will you have the capability to have a reasonable ride on your dates? Or will your dates always be complaining about engine noise, shifting too hard, etc?
1 - 37
2 - 58
3 - 80
4 - 101
5 - 129
6 - not listed
I usually take it to about 8k before I shift. That nets ya this: 40, 65, 88, 115, 140, ?
1 - 46
2 - 80
3 - 120???
4 - 140???
Thanks for the info!
Those numbers for the gts auto seem pretty high, but I could be wrong.
Also does anyone know the gts autos 0-60 time and top speed?
Thanx
I think the blackbox is just going to work the same way as the vtec controller, you will hit the lift sooner. But watch out for miles per gallon, that will just drop to the floor if you have it set at 5000 rpm or something. Actuallly, this will probably shift the power dyno graph to the left, so you get lower power at a higher speed?
Sometimes you have to 'feed a little life into your ride.' I am figuring most of us do this daily though...