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Mazda 323

1356710

Comments

  • autopartsautoparts Member Posts: 2
    What did you do to fix your car? My wife's '87 323 might be having a similar problem. It stranded her at work. I checked that the spark plugs were all getting a spark. It seemed to have fuel pressure. While fiddling, I disconnected the electrical connector on the Air Flow Meter (the box on top of the air filter that contains a big door regulating air flow). The car then started right up and seemed to run perfectly. However, it stalled and would not immediately start after driving a few miles. The stalling would happen after trying to take off from a dead stop. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and Air Flow Meter eventually seemed to get it started two more times and now it will not start at all. I used the service manual to check the voltages and ohms for the Air Flow Meter and those checked out ok. I do not know if my disconnecting and reconnecting the Air Flow Meter electrical connector really ever had any impact or the car just started by coincidence. I suspect an electrical problem since the car ran so perfectly when it did run. I hope you fixed your car and can give me some tips. I now plan to take apart the distributor to follow up on some tips I saw in this forum.
  • leon323leon323 Member Posts: 1
    car just quit running.juice going to coil just no spark coming out of coil to dist. 87 323 4 cyl 5 spd.replaced mass meter andidle valve 2 months ago and has ran like a champ since til this morning it wanted me to walk in the snow.please help.
  • sinspawnsinspawn Member Posts: 1
    This just a possibility. it could be the electronic ignition module located inside the distributor.
  • dave403dave403 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 323 since new. It has just under 300km on it and it is still going strong. I have loved this car, it don't look pretty to look at but with the price of gas now days, you can't beat it.
  • autopartsautoparts Member Posts: 2
    It looks like the insulation on a spark plug wire or the coil wire had gone bad and the resulting electric field made the Air Flow Meter (AFM) malfunction. I suspect it was the coil wire because it is right next to the AFM.

    The wires all looked fine and still made the spark plugs spark. I did not see any glow or arcing either. However, as soon as I put new spark plug wires on, the AFM started working and the car has been running fine for two weeks. The spark plugs wires on our 323 seem to only last about 40000 miles. I had inadvertently let these wires go 50000 miles.

    I discovered it is possible to check the operation of the AFM by removing the black plastic cover on top. See an AFM picture at http://www.rockauto.com/ref/BeckArnley/Detail.html?1570139.jpg Just run a knife around the edge of the cover to cut the silicone seal and then pry it off with a screwdriver. The little arm inside should start moving immediately when the starter is cranked and move in response to the gas peddle when the car is running. Replace the cover by snapping it back on and putting a new bead of silicone around the edge.
  • mjmuirmjmuir Member Posts: 8
    I have a 1989 Mazda 323 with approx 200 k miles on the odo. Have done numerous jobs on the car. With respect to cool air and temp gauge problem, it sounds like a blockage or air bubble in your cooling sytem. Suggest you do a complete flush, including the heater core, reverse flush on the block and radiator, replace the thermostat and radiator cap. I assume you are using 50%/50% water/antifreeze mix.

    Can you or anyone help me with a problem I'm ahvign with by 323? I will also start a new thread:

    The car has about 200,000 miles on the engine and about 30,000 on the rebuilt head. I run 87 octane gas and use fuel injection cleaner on a regular basis. I recently tuned the car (although the problem occurred before the tune-up) with new NGK Platinum spark plugs (gapped at 1.02 mm or 0.040"), 7 mm plug wire set, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter and PCV valve.

    When the car is cold it runs fine. It also runs fine once warmed up. Beyond about 30 minutes of starting up and running the car, it will occasionally drop its idle by 200-300 RPM (normal idle is around 850 RPM) and will lack power on acceleration (much like running on 2 or 3 cylinders like a continuous spark plug miss). This happens both on acceleration and steady speed running. It clears up between 3500 and 4000 RPM. and will be fine for a while, then reverts to a stumbling idle and "missing" again.

    I believe it’s a fuel problem and is definitely temperature related, but my shop manual doesn't really help because the problem is intermittent. Help!

    Cheers
    Malcolm :confuse:
  • mjmuirmjmuir Member Posts: 8
    I have a 1989 Mazda 323, 1.6L OHC, 5 speed with an intermittant rough roughing and "miss" problem.

    The car has about 200,000 miles on the engine and about 30,000 on the rebuilt head. I run 87 octane gas and use fuel injection cleaner on a regular basis. I recently tuned the car (although the problem occurred before the tune-up) with new NGK Platinum spark plugs (gapped at 1.02 mm or 0.040"), 7 mm plug wire set, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter and PCV valve.

    When the car is cold it runs fine. It also runs fine once warmed up. Beyond about 30 minutes of starting up and running the car, it will occasionally drop its idle by 200-300 RPM (normal idle is around 850 RPM) and will lack power on acceleration (much like running on 2 or 3 cylinders like a continuous spark plug miss). This happens both on acceleration and steady speed running. It clears up between 3500 and 4000 RPM. and will be fine for a while, then reverts to a stumbling idle and "missing" again.

    I believe it’s a fuel problem and is definitely temperature related, but my shop manual doesn't really help because the problem is intermittent. Help!

    Thanks
    Malcolm :confuse:
  • mjmuirmjmuir Member Posts: 8
    I have an 1989 Mazda 323 LX which developed exactly the same problem. Because the switch is mostly plastic, the support for the turn/high beam fatigues and breaks. I went to an auto wrecker (auto-breaker in the UK)amd purchased a good used one for $20.00 CDN. That was two years ago and it's still working just fine.

    Cheers
    Malcolm :)
  • jjazzjjazz Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the info Malcolm. I've also read in the form that if non-Mazda parts are used problems might develope. The thermostat I've purchased didn't look like the one I've taken out from the engine. ;)
  • dhskeltondhskelton Member Posts: 2
    I have an 89 323. will run fine when cold but once it reaches operating temp dies and will not start. It acted just like a fuel filter was clogged so I replaced the filter but this did not solve the problem. it has been sugested the the problem is probably the ignition module in the distributor, is there any way to test this. It is a very expensive part to eat if it's not the problem.

    Thanks

    Dave :confuse:
  • mjmuirmjmuir Member Posts: 8
    Hi Dave

    Run the car in the driveway. Once it's up to operating temperature, wait until it dies. Disconnect the high tension wire from the distributor cap and hold it near a grounding point (such as one of the bolt heads of the air filter box. Have someone sit in the car and crank the engine over to see if you get a spark between the wire and the ground point. It should be a healthy spark. If it is weak, I would consider replacing the ignition wires, cap and rotor. Also check the gap between the pick up and inductor wheel. Although no spec is given in the manual, it should be around 0.007". Use BRASS thickness (feeler) gauges to check thsi gap; steel may damage teh components.

    Interestingly enough, I have a similar problem, except that I'm getting an intermittant igniton miss when the engine is hot. I first thought it was a fuel problem too, but after checking fuel pressure, I'm back to igniton troubleshooting.

    It has also been suggested throguh the Mazda Club (www.maxdaclub.com based out of Illinois)that the thermosensor (located on the intake manifold between #3 and #4 cyclinders, connected with a two-pin green plug) may be the culprit; try disconnecting it and see if the car will run when hot.

    As far as an igniton module goes, I assume you are referring to the unit inside the distributor. Try your local auto wrecker for a spare distributor, might be an inexpensive alternative to new.

    One last thing you could check is the coil. The primary coil should be 0 ohms; the secondardy coil should be 6k to 30k ohms.

    Cheers
    Malcolm :sick:
  • mjmuirmjmuir Member Posts: 8
    You can gain access to the fuel sender & pump assembly by removing the rear seat cushion (push the eladign edge of seat with your knee near the end on each side and lift up).

    There is metal plate approximately 7" X 7" (175 mm X 175mm) which can be remove once the screws are taken out. Thsi gives you access to the top of the tank. On the end of the fuel pick-up is a filter which may be partly blocked. You can also check the fuel sender for correct operation; using a multimeter on resistance setting, the sender should read 7 ohms at full, 32.5 ohms at 1/2 fuel and 95 ohms at empty.

    You may have to repalce teh fuel pump and in-tank fuel filter assembly (approximately $300.00 CDN from an after-market parts store).

    In the meantime, you can zero the trip odometer and make note of the miles (or kms) on the trip odo when my Low Fuel light comes on (or if base model at an indicated 1/4 tank). You can then at least monitor when you need to fill up prior to running into this problem.

    Cheers
    Malcolm :confuse:
  • mjmuirmjmuir Member Posts: 8
    Good questions. I bought a base 1989 4-speed with 176k km on the odo, ran great, economical, reliable, then startign burign a lot of oil. i rebuld the head at 245 k km, checked the bottom end and it was exceptional, smoot bores, no ring lands or scoring. Ran it another 30 k km and got another 1989 by at DX with 5 speed, sun roof, cloth interior, power steering, etc with broken crankshaft nose. Swapped engine from 4 speed car into 5 speed car and ahve put another 10k km on engine.

    I have heard that Mazda run tighter clearances than other Japanese cars, so i started using 5W-30 oil after teh head rebuld.

    I never had problems with the higher milage car, but DX had 195k km on clock and am now experiencing ignition problems at 210k km. Most of what I've read on these forums is that electrical and/or fuel gremlims are common on higher milage cars.

    I think the longevity is part tied to vehicle usage and maintenance. I don't believe there's much difference between auto vs. manual transmissions so I'd go for the car with the lower kms, but so try to get service history from the owner.

    Cheers
    Malcolm :D
  • mjmuirmjmuir Member Posts: 8
    I replaced my orignal factroy clutch on my 1989 323 with 275k km although it still wasn't completely worn out.

    Slipping in 4th or 5th is a definite sign that the clutch should be replaced. Driving this way will ultimately damage the flywheel which will drive the repair costs even higher.

    You could do the job yoruself, but be prepared to spend a full day on with a buddy to get it done assumign you ahve all the right tools. A transmission shop will charge you around $500.00 to $600.00.

    As the car uses a cable clutch release, the free-play adjustment should be checked annually. If the clutch is pre-loaded due to incorrect cable tension, it will lead to premature wear.

    Cheers
    Malcolm :D
  • dhskeltondhskelton Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Malcolm: funny you should mention that temp sensor, the temp gauge quit working a day or so before the problem started. If that doesn't pan out I am going to go to the junk yard and get a whole distributor. I have a friend that is a certified master mechanic and he is the one that pointed me towards the ignition module. I'll let you know how it turns out.

    Dave :)
  • mjmuirmjmuir Member Posts: 8
    Just to let everyone know. I have resolved the problem. I thought it was a fuel problem, but after checking the fuel pressure cold, hot and dead-ended it checked out per specs. Someone had suggested after-market ignition parts were the problem so I bought a new cap and rotor from Mazda; still no fix.

    It then occurred to me that, because it was temperature related and felt like either lack of fuel or lack of spark, the only thing that would make the mapping computer think the engine was running rich would be a faulty Oxygen sensor.

    In the factory manual. section 4, under the troubleshooting guide, the O2 sensor was item 4 to check for faults. Because I had replaced it 3 years ago (Bosch) I hadn't considered it before.

    I have run the car twice today with the new Oxygen sensor on one hour plus drives, no problems.

    My local parts shop recommended an NTK (NGK) sensor over Bosch, as the NTK is a Japanese spec part.

    Cheers
    Malcolm :D
  • ejsimelaroejsimelaro Member Posts: 2
    I recently took over the keys to my wife’s 323 she now drives a big family car that has the room for us and our 2 soon to be 3 kids. My car died so I am going to start driving the Mazda that has been sitting for a while. Before I drive it I am going to change all the fluids check the tires for dry rot ect.ect. My dilemma is I drove a modded Neon before it developed a fatal electrical mechanical problem that left me stranded. I don’t have the money to replace the Neon or fix her so she getting striped and junked. Now I want to add some fun into this little 5 speed. I want to tighten up the suspension and help her breath in and out a little easier. I am not looking to make her what my Neon was but I want the car to handle better and run more efficient. Where can I get parts?
  • lifeisrich1lifeisrich1 Member Posts: 9
    When my '91 Protege LX (dohc 5 speed, 120k) has sat a day or so, it will just die after going three or four miles. This has happened six or eight times now - I'm getting pretty good at learning how to stall in traffic. It will not start although the engine turns over as normal and dash lights are normal. I've pushed and pulled every wire I think around the engine.
    If I wait five minutes it will start and then it runs fine. And I can stop and start it without problem. Only when it sits for a day or so will I have the same problem.
    A few days ago I squirted some starter fluid into the air cleaner and it ran for a few seconds and stopped. I did that three times. Then after 5 minutes or so it ran fine. This means it is a fuel problem?
    Then I tried the starter fluid again yesterday and this time it had no effect. The engine would not start and run for a few seconds. A spark problem?
    A helpful mechanic said with something like this he did not know how to figure it out. He said perhaps it could be the igniter or main relay. He said just start replacing things.
    The distributer costs three or four hundred with maybe another hundred to install. I don't want to incur that expense it unless it is bad. Can a distributor be repaired? Is this a rare or chronic problem?
    Thanks in advance for any help/advice you can give,

    Best,
    Rich Locasso
    Huntington Beach, CA
  • mvonnegutmvonnegut Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: I love Mazda 323's and this is my 2nd one, but My problem is:

    I have a manual transmission on my car, It runs smooth except at intermittant times when it will start to shake/stall on the road going 30-50 MPH. About 90% of the time I can take it into neutral and rev the car up to keep it running, but then once in gear 10-30 seconds later the problem will resume. It will start right up, BUT about 25% of the time I try to start the car it will just keep cranking and wont start. BUT then I'll push start the car, and pop the clutch and it will start up. BUT recently when it won't start I'll have to do the popping of the clutch 3-6 times before it will start up. And When it's started 50% of the time is will sputter down the road. Once I get it on the freeway going 60-80MPH it will be good 95% of the time. On a 3 hour road trip every so often it will sputter a little bit, and then go away. I have changed the fuel filter, cap, rotor, coil, and plugs. We have checked the timing and replaced the timing belt. I've tested the fuel pump and get 12 volts. Oh and I've noticed that when it's cold outside and my engine is not hot it will tend to be more pronounced. I would appreciate any help you guys can give.
  • ludlow1ludlow1 Member Posts: 1
    I recently replaced my alternator and my battery in a 1987 323. It ran fine before, but now I can start it, let it idle for any amount of time, but as soon as I give it any gas it spudders and dies unless it was a tiny amount of gas it will spudder and continue running. My fuel filter is clean, maybe it could be a clog in the fuel line, maybe it is the ignition module???? what else could it be??">
  • jjazzjjazz Member Posts: 7
    It took me several weekends to fix my temperture problem in my 1988 323 Mazda. I had to disassemble the whole dasboard to get to the heater element and I applied air to both input and output to check for blockage. Replaced the thermostat, gasket, and radiator cap. The temperture gauge is operating normally and the heater is blown warm air again. I believe there was air in the system, in the engine coolant system. Thanks to Malcolm.

    Now I have the gasoline usage issue. When I purchased this vehicle it use to go approximately 400 miles on a tank full, and now its about 200 miles or less. I suspect he timing chain is causing this problem, but I need some info from readers out there. When I last checked my timing it was off so I readjusted it. I also checked the RPM, which was fine. Thanks. :confuse:
  • neannean Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1988 Mazda 323 & had to have a new water pump & timing belt put on as the water pump starting leaking a few days after I bought it. A new radiator was installed also with some new hoses. The car now idles down & runs really rough at stops or sometimes take offs. Sometimes it seems the whole car will shake during these times. I'm not familiar with this auto & I don't have a trouble shooting book for it yet. Any ideas? Wondering if could be a little out of time since new belt was put on, but thought I would have trouble starting car if this were the case. Thanks.
  • catmaster99catmaster99 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 87 Mazda 323 with 125K miles and it runs upon first start for 5 minutes then just cuts out like I turned off the key. I can start it again a few times for several seconds but then it just dies and wont run for about 10 minutes. I found that I dont have spark during that time so I replaced the spendy distributor and coil but still no luck.
    I will say that the thermostate is sticking but I wouldnt think that would kill the spark. Any suggestions?
    Catmaster99@yahoo.com
  • davedukdaveduk Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    Bought a remote cenrtal locking kit for my wife's car.
    Having trouble fitting it to the standard central locking.
    How do I get to the central locking relay? Where is it?
    Anyone know which wires do what?
    Thanks
    dave
  • pike1pike1 Member Posts: 1
    Hey all..

    Just bought a 1991 Mazda 323 in great shape and agree its a great car for commuting in the city. But a quick question, each car is different so with only a spedometer to go by what is the optimum speeds for shifting into 1-5 gear? Probably a stupid question but humour me.
  • ejsimelaroejsimelaro Member Posts: 2
    Eletrical problem the car has been haveing. About 2 or 3 weeks ago the car left me stranded in the rain died as I was driveing home. Ok I am some what knowledgable I pulled stock alt and had it tested bad so I replaced the alternator with one from a slavage yard. Drove the car it ran fine till it rained again. Left me straned again. Took car to service station had them do a eletrical anilasis and bad alternator. No problem Iam only out 35 bucks. I replace this one with a new referbed unit from parts supplier. Fully chared battery and armed with my volt meter test new alt. This alt under load was only puting out 9 to 10 volts not enough to run the car let alone charge the battery. Bad alt. Took it back got a replacement. Had alt test at store before I installed it. Fully charged battery alt was puting out 13.5 volts under full load at idle. Drove the car had my wife take it for a spin to an apointment she had no problem. This morning drove the car to work. About 1/4 to work car eletrical started to flicker one and off same simptions it had at first. Turned around and managed to get the car home when it died in my drive way. Battery completly dead. Now I have had the stock alt, 1 salavage yard alt, one bad referbed unit and one that was tested to be good. What is causeing this problem any body know? Is there something to do with the rain? Someting geting wet I dont know about that is suposed to stay dry? does the car have a seperate voltage regulator? Any help would be apriciated. I had a service manual but it is mia so I will be geting a new one. Help I am at the end of my rope and frustrated with the car. I put 1 new clutch, new transmission, 4 new tires, new breaks new muffler and catlitic converter to get this car back on the road 2200 later and I still can not drive the car.
  • metalhead360metalhead360 Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I just got an 87 323, and I want to fix it up. I'm wondering if anyone knows how big of an engine will fit in it? Please help, I've been trying to find out for months!!!

    Anthony
  • shottzillashottzilla Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 1988 mazda 323 DX and recently i had to replace the Alternator and now it will hold a charge but now it runs for 20 mins or less then just quits.. but the next day it wil fire right up.. im baffled ive gone through the fuel filters lines and pumps no blockage or problems any were .. if any one could explain wats wrong it would be great..

    -scott
  • tim51068tim51068 Member Posts: 1
    My 91 323 has been a helluva car; currently at 205k mi. It has been acting as though it's not getting fuel of late and I figured the cheapest thing I could try was the fuel filter, which I know is way past due. Anyone know what diameter rubber line is correct for this? I bought 5/16" and it is hard to push on w/the whole assembly OFF the car. It's sure to be nearly impossible to get on the steel line under the thing. Any advice greatly appreciated.
  • superman_jjssuperman_jjs Member Posts: 1
    I just picked up an automatic 1993 323.
    The spedo cable is broken and I am trying to find a replacement. Any place that I should look?
    I also have the flashing "Hold" light. What does that mean and how do I correct it?
    It has 111000 miles and has a little of a rough idle.
    Any recomemdations as to what to look for to correct the idle and hold light?
    Thanks,
  • stephenr83stephenr83 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 89 323 I have replaced the altenator about 9 times in the past 6 or 7 years if you can figure it out let me know thanks
  • tinartinar Member Posts: 1
    I am new to this site. ;) I have 83 mazda 323 DX Hatchback..sitting for over a year. We are going to attempt repair..owner says main problem is electrical. i have been online searching for any and all info re car and this site got the closest but geez...somewhat involved to navigate. chiltons site does not even sell book for 323's..so..urgently appreciate any and all feedback
  • goldfngergoldfnger Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    Does anyone have the official suggested tightening torque for a 2001 Mazda 323f 1.6 Petrol (new shape):

    Engine oil drain plug
    Spark plug
    Wheel Nuts

    Thanks
  • goldfngergoldfnger Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I've got a 2001 Mazda 323f 1.6 Petrol (new shape) (110, 000 miles). When I start it up from cold I get a loud clunk. It makes the noise sometimes as soon as it starts up or sometimes up to 2 minutes after its started, while I'm driving. I cant find anything loose and its fine all day long till! Its very perplexing.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks :confuse:
  • snappymoldsnappymold Member Posts: 4
    My 1993 Mazda 323 has been great for me. Since I first bought the thing when it heats up sometimes from a dead stop it "sputters" as it is accelerating out of first gear. Sometimes it was even sputtering right into third gear. This only seems to happen when it is hot and the revs are low. Once the sputter stops it runs normallly again until the next stop light. Finally this weekend after a soggy camp trip it just died right there and after a few minutes wait it started ran for a few seconds and stalled out again this time for good. What is wrong!! I suspect a fuel pump or filter. The damn thing is still at the campground parking lot so I need some help fast. It turns over fine just doesn't fire. I believe although I did not look it is fuel injected so.....could also be the control for that or......?>
    Please Help :cry:
  • zelsjzelsj Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone removed the thermostat from a 323 1.6L and was it hard to get out -
  • kcchffankcchffan Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same troubles, however mine started acting this way after a cooling system leak. any clues or ideas?

    Cat converter? is there a fuel computer? fuel sensor?

    No clue. Please help :confuse:
  • snappymoldsnappymold Member Posts: 4
    I believe that the ignition module is probably not to blame. I replaced ignitor and engine coil with no success. I believe my problem is the pcm has gone for a [non-permissible content removed]. I bought a new chevy (much easier to work on) instead of replacing the distributor and than probably the pcm anyways. Have you done a diagnostic on it yet? Open the diagnostic box under the hood and jumper the GRN and #10 slots. Than turn off all lights, radio wiper etc. Turn on the key and watch your engiune light. it will flash a series of flashes. This will be a code for a malfunction. You need to determine if you have a spark and if you have power to the coil etc. if you have spark it may be a fuel system malfunction or distributor cap or distributor. Test at the plug wires first. If no spark than you have some form of sensor not sending a signal to the pcm. You may have also disconnected or shorted a wire while fixing your coolant leak. Very first of all chack to make sure your rad is topped up.
  • kcchffankcchffan Member Posts: 2
    OK, here is the latest, It starts and runs ... if you stomp on the gas the engine will sputter and begin to "backfire" from the air flow meter. :mad:

    Being a resident "shade tree mechanic" I like doing things the hard way. Dramatic pause and now starts the stupid questions..where is the diagnostic box? there are two sets of wire harnesses under the wiper motor, each set has a green wire. :confuse:

    I have check the wires in the area I was dorking around, I saw nothing out of the ordinary. Both the coolant resivour and the radiator are topped off. I am open for sugestions :sick:
  • desireebdesireeb Member Posts: 1
    I've had my 89 Mazda 323 for about 5 years now and it has about 140K. The transmission is going and I’m not sure if it’s worth fixing. I have to check around more regarding price and want to get the entire car checked out to see what else could need work before I make any decisions, but wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts. I love my car and I’m still in school, so buying a brand new car would be out of the questions, so my options are either fix what I have or look for another used car…
  • jdog1979jdog1979 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1991 Mazda 323. Same thing happened to me. I replaced the oxygen sensor and the engine coolant temperature sensor and the car runs like new, with 190,000 miles on it. Hope this helps.
  • sschmidsschmid Member Posts: 28
    92 Mazda 323 gas problem. When I fill it it reads full but after about 1/4 tank used it dpos to empty. I am assuming it is the fuel tank sending unit but I have searched on line and cannot find one. Any ideas?? Is this the part I need and where to find one??
  • basiajbasiaj Member Posts: 1
    A part of my car key remains in my hatch back door lock. It is Mazda 323. Any suggestion?
  • 13131313 Member Posts: 2
    Hi All,

    I'm trying to buy a manual for my 1989 323. But it seems that both Chilton & Haynes started with the 1990. Are the 1989 models that much different than the 1990+ models?

    I own the 1989 Mazda 323 SE 4 Dr Sedan, it has less than 80,000 miles on it so it's barely broken in. :shades:

    However, the little things that need replacing are getting harder to find so I may have to try using parts from another year, etc. She's a good little donkey and I want to keep her, and if I can fix everything then she's getting a new paint job too!

    Thanks in advance,
    1313
  • nhjoenhjoe Member Posts: 1
    Electronic fuel pump with float is located in the gas tank... Residual dirt / gunk forms after many years, inhibiting the float from functioning properly... Quick fix? Try a pot holed road at a fast speed... only kidding.
    Drain tank... completely... Drop tank, pull fuel pump assy, replace gasket and float device - R&R watch for dirt.
    Good luck ...
  • sschmidsschmid Member Posts: 28
    Actually according to the book the Fuel pump can be removed from the top of the tank under the back seat. The sending unit as well is right there. I was thinking sending unit as it works to 3/4th tank and then drops like a rock. Since I can't find even a used sending unit i guess cleaning the float would be worth a try. Thanks Susan
  • thesmurfiest1thesmurfiest1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi All,

    I've had this car now for about 3 years and have pretty much gotten the whole 775 dollars out of it that I paid.

    Here's the deal;
    About two weeks ago I noticed the battery was leaking and steaming acid pretty bad. 4 or 5 days went by (while still having same problem) I attempted to start my car after work, it wouldn't start. Finally, had it jumped, made it about 1 city block and wham!, no lights!

    Figured out the ECU over charged that battery, which in turn over charged the Alternator... Well, I replaced all 3, and still, I have no lights.

    No headlights, brake lights, turn signals, dash lights, tail lights, radio.. nothing!

    I still have wipers, and heater is working just fine.

    Help!!

    Thanks so much in advance!
    Tammi :cry: :lemon:
  • baz666baz666 Member Posts: 3
    hello all,
    I own a 1992 Mazda 323 Hatchback with a 1.6 ltr FI. It's got 172,000kms on the clock (approx. 107,000 miles).
    When I turn left I sometimes hear a thumping from the front passenger side corner. I'm thinking this might be a ball joint or tie rod end but I'm not sure. The car steers fine at low and high speed, doesn't pull in any direction, there's no vibration or wobble or anything like that.
    Is this thumping just my imagination or am I hearing the early stages of a problem? Is there any simple way to check?
    thx,
    baz
    toronto
  • thesmurfiest1thesmurfiest1 Member Posts: 2
    Hey Baz,

    If I were you I'd have the CV joints checked. Mine did the same thing when they needed replaced. Now, it's doing it again.. I need the other side replaced. lol

    I'm not sure what you'll pay, but, I paid about 275 to have mine done labor included.

    Good luck!

    Oh, and I finally found out the problem to my question.
    Take care,
    Tammi :shades:
  • mysonscarmysonscar Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    My son has a 88 Mazda 323 and the front driver's window is stuck. My husband says he can fix it if he had a specs for the door or instructions how to fix it. I'd like to know if someone could scan them and send them to me.

    Thanks,
    MySonsCar
    (Karen)
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