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Comments
I have a 1996 Lumina APV van which needed a new/rebuilt transmission. Because this van has the newer powertrain like the Montanas and Transports (3.4 litre with computerized transmission)it cost much more than the 1995 and older transmissions - $3000.00 Canadian. Fortunately some of it was covered by a used car warranty. I had 110,000 kms on the car. I bought this van because GM seemed to have the best track record for reliability. (especially transmissions)
I guess in either case its better then having broken thermometer.
(1) I am sure others have faced this problem and I'd love to hear how they've handled it. Are child seats safe in the rear row?
(2) If I could find someone willing with the same interior, is a swap to either the 8 passenger or a split bench possible i.e. are the clasps in the floor the same regardless? How would one go about doing this? What do people think is the best seating arrangement in this case?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Mike
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Canada
One point I wanted to raise, forgive me if it's been discussed before here but I haven't run across it yet. To preface, I'm not knowledgeable about car mechanics the way some of the posters here obviously are, and have also driven very few miles in my life compared to most people my age (41-- my age, not my driving mileage). However, one of the things I do know to be true both from reading I've done and personal experience is, highway gas mileage can vary considerable in relation to the speed driven. "Experts" have said the difference in mpg at 55 mph compared to 80 mph, can be as much as 30% for many cars, probably at least 15% for all production-model vehicles. Many drivers may be aware of this but I suspect a fair number aren't. I know as a result of doing very careful checks with my '96 Subaru Legacy, that during "pure highway" driving on 70 mph-limit roads with no A/C, I don't get more than 25.5 mpg; while on 55 mph roads, I get 27 to 28.5 mpg. Not a huge deal, but this is only a 10 mph difference-- I normally drive 60 in a 55 zone, and 70 in a 70 zone (yeah, I'm one of those "slow" drivers some of you probably detest, but I do always stick to the right lane). So anyway, in case some out there aren't really aware of this, if you'd like to save some gas at the expense of arriving 5 or 10 minutes later to your destination (for most work commutes, that's all it amounts to), you can try slowing it down a little. This may mean more in the future as I'm guessing we'll see $2/gallon (maybe higher) gas in the next couple years or so. I do know that on some roads at some times, you almost take your life in your hands by driving as low as the speed limit-- so I sympathize with those who drive faster mainly because they feel it's actually safer.
Good luck!
Drew/aling
Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference
crash test result at but everything I have seen has been excellent. That is on the 1999 and up, even the insurance test rate the Montana Good. As for the others. have poor ratings. Please let me know where you have gotten your information at so I am look as well.
I suggest that you click on "See all responses" at the top of this page (or click here), and read through the messages in this forum if you haven't already.
You may also want to visit the Montana's sister vans topic: Olds Silhouette topic, and the Chevy Venture topic As with this forum, click on "See all responses" to start reading from the first messages in the topics.
Hope this helps!
Drew/aling
Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference
Please see crash test on this vehicles, I am so upset. The reason that i still have mine is because I have no chice at this moment. Please read about other vans or any other vehicle that will fill your needs, but not this van. Learn from my mistake.
Take care friends!
While I love my Transport for it's looks, versatility and performance, I have experienced several minor quality problems and one major problem --- Oil Consumption. Ever since I bought this van it has consumed a significant amount of oil. They have been monitoring it for the past 40K miles. In addition, the 3.4 engine has a tech bulletin out on it for noise (engine piston knocking). It has and continues to sound like a diesel engine, particularly on cold start-up. The dealer actually changed the pistons out (per the tech bulletin instructions) and the noise persists and after a year even seems to be worse.
Good looks and performance aside, I would be wary of reliability and quality. This van may go for ever, but because my issues persist, I continue to have concerns.
Best of Luck!
Has anyone experienced this burning electrical smell when the ehater and /or defroster was on? And what was the cause?
No problems until 3 weeks ago. Towed to our mechanic. Couldn't find anything wrong with it. Disconnected the battery and then tried to start it -- wouldn't start. Left it overnight, and when he went out the next morning, it started right up. We've been driving it almost daily for the past 3 weeks and haven't had any problems till last night. My DH turned the key, and "click". He then moved the tilt steering wheel up and down (suggested by my brother to see if it might be the ignition wiring/switch causing the problem), and the van started. I drove it this morning with no problems. Then went to start it 2 hours later. It just makes a "click" when you turn the key to start it, and another "click" when you turn the key back to the off position. Tried moving steering wheel tilt up and down, disconnecting battery, jiggling wires, etc. Still won't start!
It's not the battery -- all the lights, etc. work. It just won't start. Anyone else have this problem???
Also, as far as the reliability of this vehicle, here are the problems we have had with it-- what I can remember off the top of my head. (We bought it with 65,000 miles in 95. It now has 135,000.)
serpentine belt, alternator (2 or 3), driver's side seat broke off! (welded it back in place!), sliding door handle wouldn't work from inside (fixed), rack and pinion, shocks, brakes, emergency brake will not hold (when adjusted to hold, it drags when you release it), handle came off parking brake (like described by peter in England above), drink holder in front falls out(little tiny clip broke off that is supposed to hold it in!), wipers sometimes decide not to come on, new head gasket, lock on back hatch will not open without key or won't lock -- ever, sliding door will open only with excessive strength and you need to pull on the handle 2-3 separate times first (tried the WD40 etc!), ABS brake sensor (about $200). That's all I can remember at the time!
We change our oil every 3000 miles, keep tires inflated at appropriate pressure, etc. ("well-maintained"!)
CR DOES recommend avoiding the 92, so I'm wondering if the newer models have improved???? What kind of van to go with when we can afford to dump this one??? Can't afford a Honda or Toyota, either!
We bought a new 2000 last year. We selected based
on price and features versus both the Chrysler
and Honda products we looked at.
We were able to get a 1500 rebate and 0.9 financing so we saved a considerable amount over
the competition who acted as if you should feel
privledged to buy their product.
After 25000 miles we feel like we made the right
decision. The Montana is not perfect. We think
the suspension is a little clunky and the engine
could be quieter (I would prefer that GM put
the 3.8L V6 in this van). However, the interior
seems to be holding up well, the tires and
consumables seem to be doing fine and overall
we like the ride and handling. I think for the
money, it is a very solid minivan. Time will
tell whether it holds up over time. But for now
I would give it an A-.
WRT the real world crashes, the offset crash test can predict the performance, but there are other variables to consider as well, of course. You may be interested in these real world front offset collision pictures of the GM minivans. Note the same buckling of the roofs/doors as in the IIHS offset crash test in all of these vans, as well as the updriven steering wheel columns. Again, there are other variables to consider, but it could happen: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=137587&a=10126395&p=40511478 (Keep clicking on the "next" button to move to the next picture).
Good luck
Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
I recommend this van to anybody!Thanks PONTIAC for getting me psyched about GM again and wanting a car again!!!!
The check engine light doesn't come on unless there is a problem. I had the same thing happen with my 99 Montana (now with 43,000 miles). The solution to my problem was the gas cap wasn't on tight. Carefully check to see if it is loose before tightening. It takes a couple of minutes for the light to go off but solved my problem.
The reason for the switch is to disable the TICS system in case of getting stuck in mud etc. When the TICS system senses wheel spin, it automatically applies brakes and limits ram. Being able to shut the system off is important when performing an emission test with a dyno where both front wheels must spin at highway speed.
Woul be interested to know whether any Montana/State Farm clients have any info.
http://townhall-talk2.edmunds.com/Web?14@@.ee93a0a/385
As you suspect, the vibrating noise at the left rear is the air compressor for the load leveling. Assuming it behaves the same as my '98, it will come on whenever the load in the rear is increased, even with the ignition off.
As for the light staying on. It probably was on the night before and was not noticed. There is a provision in the electronics on the vehicle that will shut off power to all the interior lights after some time (don't know how long) to save the battery. So the light would no longer have been on in the morning, but would have reactivated when you opened the door or started the vehicle.
The NHTSA ratings show a different picture, out scoring the Sienna in one category of crash. I am not sure if I am comfortable with the Montanna's performance yet, but keep in mind that looking to one soure that evaluated one test, ON A MODEL THAT IS 4 YEARS OUT OF PRODUCTION AND THEN EXTRAPOLATED TO 2001 WITHOUT ALLOWING FOR ALL THE ADDITIONAL SAFETY FEATURES (SIDE AIRBAG, SIDE HEAD AIRBAG, PRETENSIONERS ETC.) added since the model that was, in fact tested, is not something that I would consider conclusive.
Plenty of resources out there, don't hang your hat on just one of them.
FYI, the NHTSA also carries over the crash test results from previous model years if there have been no structural changes. They just don't tell you about it.
The Sienna that was tested did not have side impact airbags, so the 4 star side impact rating for the front passengers does not apply to a Sienna with that option.
Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
As far as your conclusory allegations about the pretensioners not changing the offset crash test results, yes and no. The same safety cage intrusion would be expected, but I don't think the femur load predictions can be reliably extrapolated. One of the things that an accident re constructionist looks at in trying to set out the kinematics, at least as my limited experience goes, would be the pelvic forces. In fact, I think one of the measures at NHTSA is some kind of force measurement for pelvis I load or some such thing. Now, the lap portion of the belt should function the same regardless of pensioners, but I am fairly confident I'd tear someone up in Court if they were attempting to offer expert testimony saying they could reliably and accurately predict the movement of the pelvis when the torso is allowed different degrees of movement in two different scenarios.
I will have to momentarily defer to you on the side impact and curtain air bags not deploying in the offset crashes, cause I don't know otherwise. But, it seems silly to me that this is the case. An offset crash induces a rotational force because 60% of the car is undergoing a different acceleration than the other 40%, thus an important measure is the travel of the head and does it slide towards the driver door (a pillar, b pilar contact, I believe is the jargon.) Cripes, if this is something that is measured, then why is all of that built in safety sitting there unactivated?
Don't look in the TSB section, but rather look in the consumer section.
We have a few minor quirks and wondered if anyone else has the same quirks
1. Wing windows on the sliding doors chatter when open (locked open)
2. the rear window washer pours rather than sprays the rear window. Had the dealer replace twice and still just pours.
The last item. Does anyone know how I can disengage the auto headlight system or know where the sensor is? I don't mean the DRL's. There are many times I don't want the head lights on and would like to have the ability to turn them off.
Other than that, we think the car is great. We had a 91 Transport before and liked it and never had a problem with it (~115000 miles).
rear seats of the 2001 model, but since they did not actually have the strap i am unsure if they
actually support a store purchsed teather strao
Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
Of course if you cover it up they will be on all the time. I have looked in the fuse guide but nothing isolates this without disrupting something else. Why is it such problem ?