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Many companies sell boost gauges, with instructions.
My Volvo Dealer said it was worn bearings on my front wheel drive shafts. $900 to replace them as the bearings are part of the shafts.
I went to another Volvo independent repair shop for a 2nd. opinion. Thay said the same thing. I had them replace the bearings/shafts on both sides for $800. The rumble was less noticable but still there. Now three months have passed and the rumble is worse than ever.
Any ideas?
Walt
Basically, the car is trying to clear out the a/c system.
See your owners manual for an explanation.
I'm about ready to repair the cruise control on my '98 V70 AWD. It stopped working awhile ago (year or two) and was wondering if anyone had experienced the same. I have not previously posted here as I've used the Brickboard site but was surfing and stumbled upon this group.
For the benefit of others, I've got experience replacing the center driveshaft bearing ($45 for replacement bearing) and the viscous coupler end driveshaft bearing ($30) if anyone would like some help on that. Likewise I have personally replaced the air conditioning evaporator (yes, a real job), the front and rear wheel bearings, at least two master power window switches, front struts, ignition switch module, I guess if you've owned one of these nice, plush riding, money hogs you get the idea. I do my own work because I sure can't afford to pay for the labor rate AND the parts. Any help on what people have replaced to get the cruise control working would be appreciated.
Klaz
'98 V70 low serial number, high mileage
Has anyone run into this with their own, and what was found to be the causes.
This howling, makes it hard to drive the vehicle over 70KMP......
Robert23
Klaz
Plus, you would have to download the appropriate software.
Not hard to do, but it would take some work for the dealer to do.
I will shortly be replacing my beloved Audi A4 Avant with a new vehicle - my older daughter is complaining about the lack of legroom so I need to upsize a bit. I think I have things narrowed down to a V70, Ford Freestyle, or a Honda Odyssey. A couple of questions:
1) I would want the 3rd row seat, as I would occasionally be transporting up to 4 adults and 2 kids. Is there any safety data on the 3rd row seat? It seems awfully close to harm's way in the event of a rear impact.
2) Has anyone driven both the XC70 and a FWD V70 in bad weather? We get 5-10 days of snow and plenty of rain and I don't have the option of staying home if the weather is nasty.
Thanks
WITH 87,000 MILES NOW. DO YOU THINK I AM COVERED UNDER THE EXTENDED
WARRANTY MENTIONED. THX FOR YOUR HELP. BSIRIANNI@EARTHLINK.NET
thanks
Volvo's response to this? If they "can't reproduce and diagnose the problem, it doesn't exist." No kidding, those are the exact words spoken to me. I was told that no one had ever heard of this type of problem before. Every time I would show up at the dealership, I was dealt with as if I was delusional -- exasperation and barely concealed eye-rolling. The final straw was when I was told that this problem must be "driver error" -- that both my husband and I must be driving in such a way that the floor mat (the FLOOR MAT???) was pushing forward and depressing the accelerator.
The solution was long, time consuming and complex. We had more than two years remaining on the lease when this started. For more than a year, Volvo was completely intractable on every front. We parked our Cross Country in our barn, where it became a large paperweight (on which, of course, we still had to make payments). The dealer finally proposed that we could turn the car back if we agreed to a new 4 year lease on a new Volvo. Needless to say, not an acceptable solution. After repeated contacts with Volvo North America, threats of legal action, etc., the dealership finally took back the car with 7 months remaining on the lease.
My fear is that the dealership has spiffed up this dangerous lemon (which was in very good shape cosmetically) and will sell it to some unsuspecting person. Although volumes of correspondence exist to document our concerns, none of that information is in the public record such that it would be obtainable through Carfax or another vehicle history service.
Needless to say, we will never, ever, ever, buy another Volvo.
When I open the driver's side door during/after rain--something that happens frequently here in Seattle--a healthy amount of water runs from the roof and drips directly onto the driver's seat and/or the driver.
Is there a good way to prevent this? Thank you.
It's either a v70 wagon or a Toyota Sienna. (They have comparable fuel econo ratings...)
Amongst the MY 2001-2005, what are the known "issues" ("defects") that I should keep in mind when shopping? Anything else positive or negative to consider in choosing between various cars?
One Volvo dealer has a used (8k mi) Magic Blue 2005 v70r for 38850.
(The nicest Volvo I've ever seen is the s80 Premier. Wow! Local Dealer had a Ford exec turnover for about $38k.)
Thanks!
Graffito- 108,000 miles?? Your 945T is definitely not tired...I would keep that car and shoot for 200k. My old '93 850 had 112k miles on it last winter and I would have definitely gone for the 200k mark had it not met its demise in a wreck.
I should first of all correct myself: it's 118k miles.
The Second "correction" is that MY WIFE is tired of it.
I have no problem with the idea of driving it into the ground. The maintenance is getting a bit inconvenient, of course. And it just can't compare in occupant comfort to the more recent models. But for those who love the older boxes and RWD, it's a great car.
I hear that there are Volvo fans who would grab this car in a heartbeat. I hope I find one, because a local Volvo dealer wouldn't consider it as a trade, which is perfectly reasonable from his point of view, and I agree.
Now, about those 2005 v70's ... locally, the only color they want to sell is Silver. Ugh. And color is apparently half of a car sale. (It would help if they offered some nice ones. Oh-oh, there's a topic for flames!)
I saw a v70r on his lot with 8k miles for $38k. GORGEOUS! No mommy-mobile, that! But for driving around suburbia, years past adolescence, not necessary, though desirable. The only Volvo they won't certify. Hmph.
Volvo sent an "investigator" up to check airbags , which never deployed , and switch. He reported that accident wasn’t serious enough for any of the 4 airbags to deploy , he also stated that he :hooked up a battery to car , and the headlight switch worked. Curiously , the serial # on the switch was scraped off after his visit.
Subsequently , I learned from a Volvo Service manager that all they do to check for defective switches , is check the serial #. I described the condition of the switch , outside plastic shell deteriorated, latches holding 2 halves together cracked /broken , interior spring expanding unit beyond it's original size. He confirmed that is was indeed the defect that caused the recall. Volvo also ran identical recall back in 1999 , on the C70 models.
In that I wasn't sufficiently injured , no lawyers are interested in the case. Volvo says case closed , I'm now in bankrupsy , housebound & unemployed , stuck up on a mountain for 2 1/2 months now.
VOLVO STINKS - UNSAFE @ any speed ! :mad:
You think like me. Sienna was the other vehicle on my short list but I found the Volvo first. Both have a good reputation and neither comes out of a Chrysler / :lemon: factory.
and loved the reliability of them. Then was looking into a Toyota Highlander at Toyota dealer
and there was this very nice used V70xc fell in love with it.
Can anyone shed some light on this car for me as far as reliability of them and any other things
I should know about this car?
But, we've had our share of problems. A quick run through (by memory only) of the problems includes issues that resulted in a rebuilt transmission, new front struts, and the electronic throttle module all replaced under warranty. For the first three years the light bulbs blew regularly until the dealer installed the factory fix and the electronic door locks failed. The repairs we did pay for weren't cheap. We spent $1100 on a brake job (no joke) at 53K miles or so and $400 or so at 60K on a front control arm. The front end though is still loose like it needs new struts (again). The 60K mile service was expensive ($500 +-) and nothing significant was really done. (OK, they changed a few cabin air filters, greased some door locks and changed the oil.)
Dealership experience? Acceptable but not great. The customers tend to be inoffensive, upper middle class types who bought a Volvo because they were told they are reliable. The owners are really out of their element when in front of the service writers desk and most customers just grumble and authorize the repair. The repairs themselves are uneven. Tools are left in the engine compartment, the vehicles rarely returned washed (not that I need a free wash, but if the mechanic didn't wash it like the dealer promises after each service, what else didn't he do?), etc. The dealer principal (it is a one store operation) lives out of state and is never around. All in all, the dealership experience is probably better than a domestic service experience but not like the Germans.
Would we buy one again? Yes and no. If we had had to pay for the warranty repairs, I'd be furious and so probably not. On the other hand, what else is out there? I'm convinced that the E Class Mercedes Wagon with Fourmatic is no more reliable, holds less, is no where near as competent in foul weather, and certainly far more money. The AWD Pacifica lacks panache, the SAAB Aero is not AWD, etc. While a Suburu wagon, the Official Maine State Car, makes the most sense, I have certain cultural and business hangups about driving a Suburu. Maybe what we should buy is a V70 T with a stick shift. That would eliminate the tranny problem and maybe some of the front end problems (AWD is complicated). Put on some Blizzaks come Thanksgiving and we would be all set.
You can pick up a 2001 XC with 50-60K miles for 19K or so. A V70 with leather but not AWD with decent mileage for 15K. I strongly suspect you are not familiar with the used car game and have gone to a non-authorized, corner lot. Your language is revealing. You say you are "working with a dealer". Does he give you a W2 form? IMHO, you have a serious case of role reversal. You would do a lot better if you indicated to him that he should be trying to work FOR you. In any case, no dealer, not even an authorized Volvo dealer offerring you a certified used car, will be able to offer any kind of a meaningful warranty at 132,000 miles. So, since the price isn't significantly lower than a 55,000 mile car and there will be no warranty, why bother?
For the 3K savings you are "losing" 75K miles of relatively trouble free driving and facing with absolute certainty almost an immediate 5K in repairs: radiator, brakes, air conditoner work, tires, suspension, etc. It gets worse. After you drop 5K (that's post tax money, incidentally. You had to earn 7K in your W2 to get 5K) you still have a worn out car that only a college sophmore would buy from you.
This is nuts. Run away. Then, to prepare yourself for the next encounter check out Edmunds TMV pricing and equally importantly, spend a Saturday visiting perhaps 50 dealers to become more familar with the process and to convince yourself who works for whom.
Good luck.
I own a 2002 Volvo V70 and I have discovered a strange problem. When I drive on a highway for more than 1/2 hour, the fan for my AC system shuts down. It stays off until I drive off the highway and slow down. After about 10 minutes the fan and the cool air return. I have taken it to the dealership twice, and they cannot replicate the problem.
This is a huge issue for long car rides in summer and winter (de-frost) My only option is to allow a technician to take my car overnight so they can drive it home and re-creat the problem..then hook up a laptop to the car to see if they can pin point the problem.
Can anyone offer any suggesttions as to the cause of this huge proble. Thank you.JHB
Cheers! -John
I want now a V70R. Can only afford used. Is it a good idea to get one with 90K? Are repairs more and expensive on the "R" over regular Turbo's? Must have turbo and AWD.
Any help on my decision would be appreciated. My wife is questioning my decision to get such a high milage car. I told her they can go a few 100 thousand miles.
I found one I like, and want it!
thanks everyone
Ron
I want now a V70R. Can only afford used. Is it a good idea to get one with 90K? Are repairs more and expensive on the "R" over regular Turbo's? Must have turbo and AWD.
Any help on my decision would be appreciated. My wife is questioning my decision to get such a high milage car. I told her they can go a few 100 thousand miles.
I found one I like, and want it!
thanks everyone
Ron
The car then started to occasionally spit black smoke and idle roughly when I came to stop.
I also have noticed that recently the lights wouldn't work when I started the car (blinkers and headlights) I need to restart the car and, voila, the lights would work.
Now they tell me that the car is "contaminated" and that the wiring harness is shot. The problem is that the harness gets dirty and then shorts out various electrical parts. The cost? $1500 to fix.
Has anyone dealt with this before? Am I getting the shaft?