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Comments
Can someone please tell me if the light needs to be reset or if it will correct itself? Tightening the gas cap seems like too easy a fix on the other hand if that's all it is I prefer not to have pay the dealership for unnecessary repair.
A friend whose full time job is buying used vehicles for a local Chrysler dealer asked me if I'd "lost my mind" when I mentioned considering the V70 and launched into a tirade about $500 brake jobs and crazy expensive maintenance... but man, oh man, did I like the feel of that test drive!
Thanks for any thoughts!
This whole issue is very important to a person of limited means. An upper income person who makes the wrong, un-researched decision on a car doesn't take a meaningful hit. Moreover, an upper income person usually has lots of help (e.g., the WSJ, friends in business, professional partners, etc. ) to avoid a bad decision. Good luck.
I know a doctor who bought an SL600 a year and a half ago.
He just sold it and lost $50,000(not including the taxes he paid on the original purchase).
$50k is a big hit no matter who you are.
Rich people make stupid decisions too.
I have a 2001 2.4T. It felt like a tight, sporty sedan & still does (wouldn't know it was a wagon unless you turned you head around). I had a love affair with that car & still love the safety features (4" thick doors, etc...). Then the quirkiness started.
This car has had everything from persistent oil leaks to manic electrical issues. All at HUGE costs to me. I just got it back from the shop TODAY. This car has 69,900 miles on it. The laundry list of repairs needed are as follows:
Reseal turbo drain back tube - $200.00
Replace BROKEN engine torque mount - $200.00
Replace inner tie rod assemblies & align - $450.00
Replace passenger door lock actuator - $315.00
Perform steering module software download - $235.00
I just spent over $1,000 at the 60,000 mile visit! THIS WAS JUST FOR ROUTINE MAINTENANCE!! I was so upset that I called the service dept to ask them if they put doctors & lawyers on my car. He told me to sit down for the $1,400.00, 100,000 service that was coming up. This thing is a money pit. I spend about as much on maintenance & repairs (monthly) as I would to drive a nice new car that was under warranty. My co-worker had the same year & model as I have. His was an absolute bomb. He got "0" satisfaction from Volvo. He said he tried to navigate the voice-mail system from hell and could not get anybody who cared.
Want to routinely pay big $$ for safety? This is your car...
Incidentally, despite some problems with our 2001 XC we are going to re-up. You can't beat the seats, safety, looks, ride, etc. What improvement would an E Series wagon with Fourmatic give us? For probably 15K more money we would have less traction, less usable space, non-Volvo seats, etc. What did I leave out?
It seems to me from reading the board that the current ETM is not the same as the one sourced from Magnelli Moretti in the 2001 and that the AWD is now by Haldex. Can we assume that all the bugs in the 01s have been corrected by now?
Thanks.
1) Now that we have replaced the electronic thottle module at 50,000 miles, what is the probablility that it will fail again, and this time out of warranty?
2) We like the looks of the 70 but could be tempted to investigate a 2.5 AWD XC90 (sorry, don't need a V8). But in reading the XC90 posts I notice a lot of teething problems (and a lot of whining about some not so significant things). Can we expect to have more problems with an XC90 than a XC70?
3) After you get past the more upright and higher seating and the additonal passenger room in the 90, doesn't the XC70 have more ground clearance, probably corners better and holds about as much cargo? In other words it does the same job for a lot less money. Am I missing something? I know that the XC90 is the New Best Thing from Volvo with an incredible resale. But what does it do better or more comfortably (besides hauling 7 people around) than an XC70? Frankly, the now NLA optional dual turbo engine seems a crazy choice (DUAL turbos on a Volvo?) that is destined for some expensive maintenance at 65K just after the warranty expires. (Anyone want to guess what it will cost in parts and labor to replace two turbos that croaked because stop and go driving to the local mall coked the oil on them?). Even the Yamaha V8 seems a bit much.
The XC90 boards read a lot like the LR3 boards. They are full of posters who are quite proud of themselves, their achievments in this world, and seem happy to have paid a lot of money, money that was darn close to list price, to own and carp about the latest thing from Volvo. I don't get it. Then again I can recall growing up in New England when no one had a TV. Am I just not with it?
The newer throttle designs are much less prone to failure however.
2 The XC90 teething issues were minor, mostly software issues, wind noise and a few squeaks and rattles. XC90 reliability has actually been quite good on the 04 and 05 models.
3 XC70 ground clearance 8.2", XC90 clearance 8.6"
XC70 cargo capacity w/ back seat down 71.4 cubic feet.
XC90 cargo capacity w/ 2nd and 3rd rows down, 85.1 cu/ft.
The XC90 is simply bigger than the XC70. Otherwise, ride and handling are almost identical. XC70 does a little better in fuel economy, 1 mpg better city, @ 3 mpg better highway.
As for the turbo's, contrary to popular belief it is almost unheard of to replace a turbo. We have had the twin turbo engine since 99 in the S80, and I can't remember us having to replace a turbo. The last turbo we replaced was on a 2000 V40 w/ 85k that the owner simply never changed the oil in.
The V8 will get better highway mileage than the 5 cyl and probably better highway mileage than the XC70. It turns alot fewer rpms than the 5 cyl does.
Xc90 owners tend to be type A personalities. XC70 owners tend to be the more traditional Volvo owner. More analytical and less likely to give in to fads.
I'd go w/ the XC90. The price of a 5 cyl isn't that far off from the XC70, resale will be better and you can do more w/ the XC90.
Does anyone know where I can get a full factory manual for this car?
Alot depends on your maintenence history and your relationship w/ your dealer.
Also, if the problem is a known one.
Keep in mind that it is "goodwill" and not a right.
Volvo only has to warranty the car for 4 yrs or 50,000 miles.(some parts/systems longer)
we've had great experiences with our volvos, 96 855, 01 v70 2.4t, 04 xc90 2.5t/awd. there's little doubt we'll end up buying another volvo some year.
I don't have his problems, no AWD on my '01 T5. It sure is a nice car to drive but I dread the visits to the dealer for services. I am shallow pocketed like most V70 owners.
The 2000 V70 XC used a different coupling than the 2001-2003 models.
Haldex was used starting in 2004.
Contrary to popular belief, Volvo's maintenance costs are pretty close to average.
Since you own a V70 T5 your pockets can't be that shallow.
First ?: Can a good drive line shop replace this bearing?
2nd?: Since vibration started the tranny shifts with a 'BANG". Is this caused by the bad bearing?
Ditto on the good luck.
Somewhere here and also the the brickboard are my previous posts regarding this money pig of a car (master window switch, door locks, sway bar links, radiator, water pump, rear hatch trim, front wheel bearings, Center bearing and VC bearing, top and side motor mounts. . .) The best part is it makes the parts for my other car, the 5-series bmw, seem cheap. . .and I've always wanted to think of a bmw as affordable.
Klaz
July 18, 2005, my 24 year old daughter was killed while driving my Volvo 2001 V70 XC. It was bright, sunny, dry afternoon with normal, moderate traffic. She was changing lanes when the car unexpectedly accelerated from the farmost right lane to the farmost left lane, lost control, hit the leftmost guardrail, crossed back into the center lane, collided with another car, crashed through a the rightmost guardrail, sailed through a treetop, dropped 30 feet, landed upside down, and rolled repeatedly until it came to rest in a concrete creek bank below the bridge on which she'd been driving. The other car was left teetering on the same rightmost guardrail but its driver was thankfully not seriously injured. My daughter was wearing her seatbelt but of course killed upon impact after the drop.
I have had an accident reconstruction expert investigate the accident and he believes mechanical failure, most likely the ETM module, caused the crash. Unfortunately, since very few complaints have alleged acceleration due to ETM failure (either as a direct result of the failure or in overcompensation for reduced performance caused by the failure), this is a hard case to prove. However, we've been unable to come up with any other reasonable explanation, and the ETM had failed and been replaced on my car before.
In the meantime, many drivers, passengers, and other vehicles are at risk because these cars are on the road in this condition. Please don't assume the problem will be fixed given the current complaints and investigation -- if you had problems with the ETM in your car, please file a complaint so that it can be investigated with the others and action can be taken to force Volvo to react. At present, there are only 131 complaints filed alleging problems; if there are more problems out there, the NHTSC needs to know about them ASAP so that they can protect us all. No one else should be injured or killed due to Volvo's negligence in refusing to correct a known defect.
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
If you think I should get an extended warranty, is this the right price? Does Volvo have an extended warranty program or are they all through other companies? My dealers slimy finance guy is who presented the warranty idea to me and while I like my dealer I didn't trust this guy. He told me that this price is only valid for the first year I own the car and then the price will go up.
Does anyone know if the warranty is transferable to a new owner if I don't keep the car 7 years.
Paul
Think back on it. Are you leaving the A/C controls in the On position?
as you no doubt know, the only solution appears to be to replace the whole driveshaft, which is very expensive. I had it replaced about 25k ks ago and now it sounds like it needs replacing again.
any idea how common this problem is? and any thoughts on how it could wear out so fast? (we drive it a normal amount and nothing unusual or off-road). also, is there some way to fix it so it won't keep reoccuring or should i just get rid of it? (I like the car and it's great in the snow in our northern region but i can't spend $1,200 a year on this one problem). any help would be appreciated. thanks.
The only other problem we have with the vehicle is that it idles rough. When the car is running but stopped the throttle goes up and down not a lot but enough to be very annoying.
We love the vehicle and it has all of the bells and whistle but I just hope we didn’t buy a "money pit".
Thanks for any help that you may be able to provide. :confuse:
I took it to the dealer 3 times, and they never could figure it out or fix it - until the 4th visit. They said that the ECU was being fooled by the O2 sensor to somehow think the car was at high altitude. The computer was adjusting the A/F ratio to compensate, and this caused the problem.
They replaced the O2 sensor (as a precaution) and re-flashed the ECU. The problem never came back.
I think so many modern cars rely on computers to run everything from fuel flow to the door locks. Many so-called "lemons" are only lemons because the dealerships just aren't equipped to service the black boxes (which were never designed to be "serviced." All a shop can do is plug in the code reader, reflash the ECU, and pray for the best.
I had a Buick that GM bought back because of this very problem (manifested by 5 or 6 different "glitches"). I had a 2001 V70 and currently own a 2004 V70 - neither one has had so much as a hiccup.
I have had a 1995 850Turbo (totalled in a rear-end collision last year) and a 1998 S70 Turbo. I loved the '95; not crazy about the '98. Anyway, we are down-sizing from a mini-van to the V70. My mechanic said absolutely not to get a XC---way too many electrical problems. From a quick glance at the forum, I'd say he's right. Reading the messages I've had time to read, I now am wondering about the T5. Any input would be greatly appreciated. I'm maybe only a few days away from purchase. It is not from a dealer so it's not certified. It is loaded and has 55,000 miles and very reasonably priced. Clean Carfax report as well.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Getting down to "brass tax", my wife & I are expecting our first child and I need a 4-dr (pref wagon) as a daily driver but don't want to spend a ton of money-- cash purchase. I've found a 2001 V70 T5 with 124k on it that looks to be in great shape- it was actually a Volvo Certified car earlier in its life and had all the usual maint & repairs done at a Volvo store because of that.
Should I be afraid of this car as a daily driver? It will likely almost never make "long" trips as my wife's X-type Jag serves duty for that. The only reason I'm even considering a car like this with these miles is that I currently drive a 00 BMW 323Ci with 80k that had all of it's svc & repairs done at a BMW store & I have had ZERO probs with it (knock on wood).
I know I should expect SOME things to go wrong through ownership, but am I way off base thinking of buying this car? You guys seem to be really knowledgable & experienced-- I appreciate any insights as I would be going to pick up the car next week if I get it.
THANKS
Are the older wagons better for issues, or about the same?
Thanks in advance.
I am curious to know if this is really a two hour job on this car. In a past life, I had a New Beetle. The O2 sensor would go out every 6 months or so. Took a very short time to replace.
With tax, the total is supposed to be $445. Am I getting ripped off?
You will have the usual maintenance things to think about, motor mounts, water pump, spark plugs etc.
Timing belt should have been done already.
People come here either looking for advice about buying a car, or to see if someone else has their same problem so they can go to the dealer armed with knowledge.
Today's cars are very reliable. If a five year old Volvo has been properly maintained, there's no reason to suspect that it won't continue to serve well with continued proper maintenance.
PS - If it were me, I'd rather pay a little more for a CPO 2001 V70 with under 60K miles.
:confuse:
Assuming no accidents or significant mechanical issues, I can't think of a single reason not to grab it.
These symptoms are exactly those documented with the defective ETM module in most (if not all) 1999-2001 Volvos. I have an appointment with our local dealer and suspect I will be charged the usual $1000-$1200 for replacing the ETM module. Unfortunately, the replacement module is no better (the manufacturer is the same and the change made is trivial as is demonstrated on vexedvolvo.org, and second and third replacements have been reported. I have asked the dealer via email to replace and install the ETM at a substantially reduced cost. Volvo is well-aware of this problem. I mentioned to the dealer that like most parents, I would like to see my children grow up. I assume most parents bought Volvos in large part for their reputation for safety.
Volvo is supposed to respond to NHTSA’s request for more information regarding this problem tomorrow (091505). If they can extend the warranty on this item in Sweden, they can certainly do the same in the US. This design defect is a MAJOR safety issue; I was genuinely scared today. This experience makes Volvo's claims of being an exceptionally safe car a not very funny joke.