Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Our car is equipped with third row seat (kids only), built in boosters, cold weather package, 5 spd auto with selectable gears, leather sport seats (std on '01 T5) and rear spoiler. There are a few other small things. It now has 57k miles on it with no drivetrain problems. We did have fit/finish problems with the door panels coming debonded from the frame behind the door pull. They were replaced under warranty. We also had a door lock issue as they related to the keyless entry and alarm. This was a warranty item also.
Beware of any clunking or noise from the front suspension on your test drives. These cars (at least the '00 and '01) have issues with front stabilizer links breaking or the bushings going bad. We were lucky to get this replaced under warranty at 49700. If I subscribed to a conspiracy theory I would say Volvo designed this into the car to get work for their dealers, but I don't REALLY believe that. It is an extrememly common needed repair.
The horsepower difference is 20-25% above the 2.5T and the ride is much stiffer in the T5, sometimes not a good thing, such as around town on older concrete. It's very comfortable on the highway and a blast when passing. There is some turbo lag, more notable on a man. trans. In the auto it's much less notable.
Good luck with your search. If you need any more info email me.
I do like the idea of the the bigger turbo and sport feel. I've been looking for '04 T5 and they're out there but not too plentiful. My thinking was they would be coming off of 3 yr leases. If I were to expand my search to other years are there any I should stay away from?
I'm hoping $20-25k should get a T5 with less then 50k miles. I'm not really in a hurry, baby in fall, so I can wait for the right one to come along.
I have a manual trans in my GLI and had ruled it out for the V70, because my wife will be driving this also, but she gave the go ahead for manual trans, any thoughts on manual vs auto trans for the T5 and/or R?
I bought a 06 manual V70 (normally aspirated) last fall and I love it. New, about $30k (with the climate and convenience package, as well as metallic paint, 3rd row seating and sunroof). Most Volvo dealers will tell you that it is impossible to buy a stick shift V70, but that is because they want to sell you what is on their lot. I actually called about 7 dealers before I found a 5 speed 2.4 V70.
The T5 is gone. A R will cost you at least 40 grand.
All of my minivan owning friends are envious when I unload my three (small) kids from the Volvo. I also get 30mpg on the highway, and I would estimate a 9 second 0-60 time.
Prior to buying it I called Hertz in Boston and elsewhere to get a feel for their "maintenance schedule". It was like talking to meatheads. They didn't have any. None. Just wash it and wait for the next OJ Simpson to come along. The car had a filthy air cleaner etc. But not to worry, we threw in a new air filter , changed the oil filter (why isn't there an aftermarket filter for these things?) and Mobil 1 and put it on a rigorouse maintenance schedule.
We had the usual problems with this first model year car which I have recounted earlier. But none as far as I know were related to Hertz. At the time we bought the car, it had high mileage for a six month old car. But because the car isn't used much, the odometer now only reads 83K so it is back within parameters.
One benefit of buying a Hertz rental is that it will be specced with a desireable color and options. I don't think Hertz buys lava colored, stick shift V70s with manual seats. They spec them to be rented by conversative middle aged people and quickly re-sold to, you guessed it, conservative middle aged people.
We are hoping to pick up the new iteration of the XC70 in '08 or, more rationally, in '09 when the first year bugs are worked out. To hedge our bets we just installed a bunch of replacement and upgrade parts from IPD Volvo: new struts, new engine mount, a strut support bar, the upgraded charcoal filter, etc.
Beyond the question of Hertz, the larger question is would we buy a V70 XC again? Yep. Despite the first year problems, where else are you going to buy an AWD entry-level luxury wagon for a 35-36K USD transaction price? A Bimmer AWD 5 Series wagon is 67K list with much less capability. Not only is it 30K more than an XC, to haul your butt around it has TWIN turbos! Come on. That is a maintenance problem just waiting to happen at 70K miles.
An E Class AWD wagon is "only" 20K more than the Volvo with, again, far less capability. The Germans do look nice when Muffie pulls up to St. Pauls or Andover in one to pick up Seamus for the ride home at Christmas.
Other folks on the board, please feel free to answer my question. Thanks a lot!
I am a tightwad and hate the thought of burning the headlights out, and the area around the headlights is so cramped that I'm not sure I can change the bulb at least on one side (don't remember which), but I haven't disabled the daytime running lights. I think it does make the car more visible. It could bring my car to the attention of an inattentive driver coming the other way. And I appreciate other drivers doing the same for me.
With the new 2008 Model Year changes, the new V70/XC70 looks attractive. Wouldn't it be slick to pick up a new one to replace our '01 and ride the new one out for the full model cycle as we did the '01? We had our XC70 now for the full run of the model cycle and stylistically had a "new car" for 7 years. Conceivably, my thinking went, if we buy an '08 this fall we could get 7 years out of that one too. (The only flaw in that argument might be that in 2015 when I am 70 I may not want to be faced with replacing a 7 year old car. But then again, if 40 is the new 30, 70 is the new 50 and I'll have a lot of miles left on my chassis.)
I then remembered the problems with our '01. Problems chalked up by everyone as typical of all first year cars. But, oh well, that's a long time ago, surely Volvo/Ford have learned how to better test prototypes with computer modeling/CAD-CAM, etc.
Maybe not. Recently, I had heard about the Ford 6.0 Powerstroke Diesel. It was brand new a couple of years ago and was so bad that web sites sprung up labelling it the "power joke". You couldn't keep head gaskets on it because it only had 12 head bolts to clamp each head on. Ford said that the heads could not be resufaced or even rebuilt. The diesel pickup people were irate. Ford had to rush through a revised 6.4 engine with radically different heads.
Maybe non-destructive testing at Ford hasn't advanced as much as we would have hoped?
Background - I wanted a bike rack that could carry 4 bikes (our entire family). I tried a trunk mount/strap supported rack but quickly discovered that the edge of the top of the rear hatch (that supports most of the weight of the loaded rack) is made of plastic.
I decided to get a trailer hitch mounted bike rack and started researching my options.
1. I found several aftermarket hitch receivers from companies like Draw-Tight, Hidden Hitch, etc. but they were only available in 1.25" receiver. The advantage is they only cost about $130 and they are simple to install - they bolt underneath the bumper in about 15 minutes with no cutting or drilling. The disadvantage is the small receiver size means the rack isn't as stable - many racks for this receiver have straps for added support.
2. The only 2" hitch receiver is the factory Volvo part. My local dealer wanted $285 for the part. The advantage is the 2" bike racks are much more stable (no support straps needed), and the Volvo receiver is custom made for the V70 (factory look and tidier installation). The disadvantage is the need to remove and trim the bumper and maybe 2 hours of labor.
Ultimately I decided to do the right thing and get the 2" factory receiver hitch and a 2" bike rack. I found an online parts supplier that sold me the Volvo receiver hitch for $203 and ordered it on the spot. Then I called my local dealer to see about installation. I figured a couple hours at $75/hr and I'd be set. WRONG! I was quoted $450 labor to install the receiver hitch. I decided to do it myself.
I must admit that I was nervous about this job. There are rivets in the wheel well that need to be drilled out, and I was afraid of permanently damaging the trim and bumper. After almost surrendering and calling a couple body shops for estimates. I finally bit the bullet and tackled the job in my driveway.
It turned out to not be a very complicated or difficult job - the toughest part was pulling the bumper off because of all the rivets, screws and hidden retaining clips. It took me 3 hours from start to finish and I am pleased with the results. I'm glad I chose the 2" hitch receiver - it's a lot bigger and stronger than those 1.25" bolt-under units, and I think it looks a lot better too.
The worst part of the experience was having the car up in the air like that and the wheels removed, and not having new rear brake pads on hand. My rear pads are ready for replacement but I haven't ordered them yet.
When I bought the hitch I assumed that the installation was like the aftermarket ones, but the dealer informed me that it was much more involved. I didn't need the hitch right away so I took it home and thought about it.
I was surprised that the hitch was in three main pieces that bolt together, rather than a single welded piece that I expected, and I hypothesized that possibly the Volvo engineers did this to allow the hitch to be installed without removing the bumper facia. However, it just turned out that removal of the facia was easier if one had the right tools and expertise, which I was lacking.
My procedure was to first, cut the slot in the facia that the hitch protrudes from (electric saber saw), and then I wiggled the individual pieces of the hitch behind the bumper facia and connected them in place. In order to do this I had to cut into the facia on the underside lower edges (circular holes to access the nuts and then cuts to allow the facia to be pulled down, and I cut a circular 1 1/2" hole in the vertical face of the facia on the left, to wrench on the left bolt head. I have a black plug in that hole and it looks fine. The right side bolt head is accessed through the rectangular pop-out. One could get an additional pop out and cut a rectangular hole in the left side just like the one on the right.
I intended to use pop rivets to rejoin the cut edges in the underside of the facia using sheet aluminum or scraps of facia, but I never got around to it. I am leaving the circular holes open so I could check the tightness of the two main bolts if I ever wanted to.
I thought I had located a source of an aftermarket hitch for the 04 V70 with a 2" square receiver, but I don't remember now. I agree that an 1 1/4" receiver would not be as useful.
We now have an 07 XC90 and I am going to put on, or have installed, an aftermarket hitch (probably Reece), because the XC90 Volvo hitch installation is considerably more involved than that for the V70--about 5 hours of labor! The Reece instructions give 1/2 hr of labor time! The only disadvantage for the Reece is that one would need a removable about 8" extension to allow the lower tailgate to clear the vertical member of a bike rack, but those are available for $50 or so. It wouldn't be needed for towing a trailer.
http://www.carspace.com/guides/Volvo-V70-Receiver-Hitch-Installation
factory 340 engine to make the offer sweet it also has a factory 4 speed console
Overall tread groove depth is about 1/4 inch yet.
1. Is this normal wear for a V70 type front end ? One garage told me that tie rod ends have been a problem on 2003 V70 - but jacking up the front end - I cannot feel any play.
2. Any suggestions for my next set of tires - I am not after soft performance tires anymore - and 99 pecent of my driving is on HOT dry roads.
Hank
BTW, hot dry roads are what performance tires were made for.
If it really bothers you that much,you might want to consider switching to narrower 16" wheels and tires.
The day I bought the V70 2.4T it came with the 17 inch tires and I tried to get the dealer to just swap me a set of wheels and tires off a standard V70 168 hp no turbo - before I even took delivery but no luck.
The XGT4s are basically shot - I am going to a new set of tires this week - saw some reviews of Yokohama YK520' s at Discount Tires and several guys with XC70's liked them - one guy with a S60 2.5T hated them. So new tires and off to a good alignment guy and see what happens.
Thanks for reply - Hank
Replacing the XGT's (which have an aggressive, high performance tread pattern) with a "grand touring" or "passenger" tire should reduce or eliminate the tramlining effect. You'll also get a smoother, quieter ride at the expense of some handling sharpness and extreme cornering grip (which you likely won't miss given the non-sporting character of the V70).
If it were me, I'd look hard at the Bridgestone Turanza Serenity. They come in your original size, and also in a narrower 215/50-17, which won't noticeably change your speedometer reading.
OE on my 2004 base 168 hp V70 was 195/65-15, which at 25.0 inches, is almost the same overall diameter as the 235/45-17 (25.3 in), and as the proposed 215/50-17 (25.5 in).
I think the base OE size got changed to 205/55-16 (24.9 in). Why did Volvo increase the base OE width and wheel size? Does the 195/65-15 have measurably better fuel economy?
I will look again at the Bridgestones you suggested. Did not see them come up in my size first time I looked.
Thanks to all _ Hank
Touring tires are a very good match for our V70's driving dynamics. You won't believe how much of an improvement in ride comfort and cabin noise they make.
I had Bridgestone Turanza LS-V tires on my 2001 V70 and loved them. I just put Goodyear Assurance ComforTred tires on my 2004 V70 and love them too (comparable to the Turanza, but not available in low profile 17" sizes like yours). Here is the Bridgestone Turanza Serenity...
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Turanza+S- erenity&partnum=15VR7TSXL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=0
http://VEXEDvolvo.org.
I might remind you that the warranty on this part was extended to 10 years (from date of purchase) or 200,000 miles, whichever comes first. We are less than a year away from the start of the 10-year expiration (1999 model year cars started delivery in late 1998), I have had one report of a car passing the 200,000 mile limit. The repair after the warranty expiration is about $1000, plus-minus $200, depending on your relationship with your dealer.
I know what a suspension noise sounds like. It sounds like rubber against metal sort of noise. It goes away when it gets wet but as soon as it dries out, the noise is back. Unfortunately, when I brought it to the dealer that I bought it from, it was raining.
Has anyone here had a similar problem? Or have they heard of such a problem on this particular car?
I have to say that I had a Subaru Outback LL Bean edition before this V-70 2.5T wagon and really miss my Subaru. Not that I don't like the V-70, but I never had even one minute of problems with that car.. until some "person" ran a stop sign and smacked into the side. She hit the car so hard that it flipped over on the roof and slid about 35 feet. We were ok.. seat belts save lives!!
This car has had several small issues, this one, a noise under the dash that sounds like a grunting noise and I think is associated with the heating system some how, a rear passenger door that make a loud squeek noise when I open it.. have lube'ed it but it still squeeks, a blown left rear tire that they charged me to replace. Just little things that drive me crazy.
Anyway, if someone has any information, please pass it on to me.
Thanks.
By the way I have had many of the problems noted in this forum from floating shorts, burned out bulbs from front to back after I purchased the car to bearings and transmission cooler replacements. If the car was not paid off I would trade it in for something else not with a Volvo nameplate. I purchased the car for the expected Volvo safety and quality and it really never has lived up to the hype. Too much money for, in my opinion, an inferior product. At this point it is a battle of wills, how much longer can I drive it before I will get rid of it. I have spent so much money on "required" maintance and repairs that I feel I need to drive this thing for the next 10 years to break even. This has just been my experience others may vary. I sincerely hope so, for the good of your pocket book. Thanks for endulging me. :sick:
I'm sorry, but if you blew out the tire,why shouldn't you pay to replace it?
I was doing a little research on my car and a problem i am having and came across your post. Do you remember how to replace the viscous coupler?
The car seems to be making a clunking sound when it is turned at sharp radius and as far as I can tell that is what needs replacement.
thanks,
Mark
Just wait till it happens again, if it ever does.
- Add the Euro Rails, crossbars and a box.
Pluses: looks good, supports a big load, more secure?
Minuses: more expensive than other options.
- Purchase a pair of Volvo load carrier crossbars (part number 9204962) and purchase a cargo box either from Volvo or a vendor like Thule or Yakima.
Pluses: much less expensive than other options, carriers attach to crossbar on the v70, carriers are removable
Minuses: support a lighter load?, less secure, more difficult
- Purchase a full rail, load bar and box system from Thule or Yakima
Pluses: less expensive than Volvo Eurorail system, works well with Thule carriers
Minuses: installation of rails requires drilling in v70 roof, problems w/leakage
Are there other options I haven't mentioned? What were your experiences with the respective approaches? Other comments about traveling long distance with a cargo box will also be appreciated.
Thanks a lot!
But the eurorails are expensive and we don't use them very much. Also I presume that the dealer has to do some drilling, but I'm not sure. If you want to save money, the removable bars should work well. The removable rails attach to ingenious external ceats--2004 model, I presume this is still the system in 2007. I don't think that the Eurorails have a higher load capacity than the removable bars. I think the gross weight limit on the roof is 100 kg (maybe roof strength and balance considerations). The Eurorails are longer and always there.
I installed a Volvo trailer hitch on this 04 V70, but it was a lot of work to install the Volvo model. I thought the dealer labor cost was too high so I decided to do it myself. It was a bear. An aftermarket hitch with the Volvo wiring harness would probably be the best benefit/cost option. That's what I have in mind with our 2007 XC90. However, if we want we could pull a light aerodynamic sport trailer for long camping trips with our three dogs. I have pulled a heavy, non-aerodynamic utility trailer, and this did significantly reduce the mpg. Thule makes one of about 45 cu ft capacity Thule trailer.
I bought a Yakima box last week on craigslist for $100 - quite the bargain.
So, now, the tailgate is free of obsticles, when the lock or unlock buttons are pressed, nothing happens at all. Normally there would be a sound and a feel of a mechanism trying to actuate, but I get absolutely nothing. I checked the fuse, thinking it might be that. It was fine. Now I don't know what exactly to try next and I really don't want to go to the dealer.
Can anyone provide some ideas? Thanks much.
Perplexed
The fuse may be weak. You also may want to put a little dielectric grease on the new fuse, just a skim coat, before you put it back in. The grease will help with electrical contact.
I suspect since the air conditioner works on the driver side that there is a diverter door stuck somewhere under the dash. Anyone have any advice on where to look or how I can 'shake the door loose'? Also, any airbag hints I need to know before tearing into the pass. side dash?
Thanks.
funny, my '01 V70 T5 has the exact same A/C problem that you describe here. I'll be watching to see if there's a helpful post coming our way. Everything else, climate wise, works just fine except the A/C not coming from the passenger's side. I want to have this fixed when the NW finally comes out of "Junuary."
Thanks
Jeanne
Intermittent cooling could be low freon, but an untrained person can add too much freon. Another possible source is the temperature sensor which reads the temp at the expansion valve, but just changing parts without expert knowledge is just "throwing parts at the problem". Take it in for service to a dealer or a good independent a/c shop. It will cost you, but there's no way out of it.
They said that a passenger side a/c problem would most likely stem from a faulty temp sensor, or possibly needing a A/C Recharge! So Camydog, it's not likely any of the dampers or doors. Which is good, considering the cost of that issue would be astronomical.