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Pontiac Montana

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Comments

  • baveuxbaveux Member Posts: 175
    Should I:
    1. Ignore the sound? Can you ;-) ???

    2. Replace only the offending shock? No, should always be changed in pairs.

    3. Get a second opinion? Not a bad idea.

    At 48 k it's time for you to consider new shock anyway, it's not because they dont leak that they are not worn out. You will realize that the day that you will ride on new shock.

    My question. do you REALLY need air shock ? Regular shock are cheaper...
  • carnaticcarnatic Member Posts: 3
    I wrote the post MISERABLE MONTANA, earlier this month. MY Warranty is expiring. Considering all the trouble that I have had with this vehicle, does ANYONE know how I might go about getting my warranty extended, either by the dealer or GM??? And I mean at no cost to me. The dealer that sold me this nightmare on wheels was supposed to get back to me after I complained to them several times, but has failed to do so. I have 11 months left on the lease, and than I can be free of this most troubling, undesireable vehicle. Also--does anyone know of a sure fire way to get out of this lease early--without costing me too much. In conclusion--anyone in the market for a minivan, either new or used--PLEASE,PLEASE take my advice. STAY CLEAR OF A PONTIAC MONTANA.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    These links may be of interest, but usual disclaimers!

    swapalease.com
    leasetrading.com
    GM Offers Early Lease Termination

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • corlissrcorlissr Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Toyota Corolla and I love it. But it is too small. I bought it when we only had one child. Now we have three. We don't fit any longer. I have about $2000 left to pay on it with 70,000 miles. I found a 1993 Toyota Previa minivan with 101,000 miles on it for $6995. The salesman says he will take my car in trade and pay off what I owe, but I will owe him what he pays off. I also found a 1997 Pontiac Trans Port Montana with 99,000 miles on it that I could get for around $9,500. Which is a better deal? I like the idea of only having a few more payments for the amount of miles with the Toyota, but it is older even though it has about the same amount of miles. Which one is going to be a better car and last longer? The Pontiac looks very attractive, doors on both sides, one electric. Both cars have power locks and windows, A/C, Automatic. Both have back heater and air controls. I like the roominess of both. Both have bucket seats in the middle row. Appreciate your opinions on this to help me decide, or if you have any other suggestions.
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    I think that transport is a bit overpriced IMHO, but do some bluebook (kbb.com) or here at Edmonds to see what the "suggested" value is.

    These probably drive, handle differently and have different features. Which do you like better?

    I have a used '98 olds I got with 62k miles and fully optioned for $11k. Most of us here have not had trouble with the electric door and when you use it everyday, you discover how nice it is (this coming from a guy who thought it was bogus as first). The dual doors is a must now a days, espec. with your 3 offspring.

    Toyotas are good with resale usually. The GM vans have very good powertrain reliability and excellent fuel milage for their size, as well the fact they are made for americans and not small people.

    You need them to simplify the deal so you are clear on each item.

    1. get the price of the van negotiated separately, in cash price, not payments

    2. then negotiate the trade-in. Know your car's trade value, and have it washed and cleaned (pay if you have to get this done). Getting out of a car for the remaining payments may be a good deal or it may be a rippoff. KNow what you have left and what your car is worth.

    3. There are tons of used vehicles out there with the recent low-interest rate new car deals and extended warrenty offerings. DON"T FALL IN LOVE with one, usually there are always more if you keep looking. This gives you much more leverage in negotiating than if you are in dire need of a vehicle. Your car is working and you don't have to trade, so you have the upper hand. Keep going back if you like the Pontiac but low ball them and keep walking out if they don't match your lowball offer. At the end of the month go there and get serious.

    4. try autotrader.com and local newspaper classifieds for comparables on both the sell and purchase side.

    5. try credit unions and carmax as alternatives to dealer financing and trade-in. I got a USED car rate at 6%, less than my home note!

    see the info here on edmonds on used car purchases. there is a lot of info.

    Good luck. I think you would like the Pontiac, but I suggest if you like a luxury ride, check for a used Olds too.

    DD
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    One problem with the Previa is that it has rear wheel drive. In snowy or icy regions this leads to poor traction. In fact, my old boss had a tough time getting his Previa up his sloped driveway in the winter. The GM vans have front wheel drive, as does the Toyota Sienna.
  • corlissrcorlissr Member Posts: 2
    I posted a question earlier about the Previa and the Transport. From reading the posts earlier about the Transport, there seems to be a lot of different problems with it and a lot of complaints. So I was wondering if anybody could tell me which would be the better value and that I wouldn't have to be taking in it to repair all the time. The Transport was listed as $11,995 and I got the price down to $9,500 and they said they would be willing to look at my car again to see if they could give me more. But, If I trade my reliable Toyota with no problems for a Transport with problems I will be very unhappy. I don't live where it snows much, western Washington, and I don't need a lot of power, but the Transport has leather seats and a lot of luxury things. The Previa is also loaded (no leather seats) power windows and doors, A/C, but only one sliding door. I don't want to be sidetracked by a lot of fancy things just to get a car with a lot of problems. Also, the previous owner of the Transport had smoke coming from the fuse box and he cut the wire. The repair bill was about $1800. I am also worried about the post earlier about all the plastic in the interior to be broken by my 3 year old. The visor is already broken, and they are suppose to fix it if I buy it. I think I am leaning towards the Previa, just because I know most Toyotas are very reliable, but if the Transport is also a reliable car, I would like driving it better. Thanks again for the suggestions.
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    Hard to say what your experiences would be on the '97. It was the first year of production, however, for a GM vehicle, most people have found the GM vans to be great vehicles and very reliable. My dad had a '80 citation that was a clunker so GM was not my first choice. I didn't expect much when I saw one but after looking was impressed.

    Consumer Reports lists the reliability of the Vans as above average. The interior/exterior trim was something that people had trouble with. But if you're going to have trouble with a vehicle, wouldn't you rather it be that mud-flap came loose and needed reattaching (like on my van)or some major drivetrain problem that leaves you on the side of the road?

    The electrical systems of these vans is pretty complicated - at least my GLS is. All those electrical gizmos and power equipment see to that. Re: burning fusebox - You might be buying a lemon, I'd get someone at another dealer or something to check it over before you sign on the dotted line. I have read here stories where the orginal batteries leaking acid, and that on one occassion dripped on and shorted out the wireing harness. You'd need a decent skilled mech to get it all solidly wired back up again so the connections wouldn't be half-asked(G). You might also need to get the alternator serviced (common problem), but I have not heard of other electrial items giving trouble. The headlight leaking water is not a electrical problem and can be easily fixed.

    Personally I find the Toyota vans reliable but about exciting to drive and look at as watching paint dry. granted we're talking minivans, but the toyotas are DULL. I don't know what you look like, but I'd feel like a real dud driving one of those things around.

    Also, I'm trying recall the specifics of the Toyota model your' referring to, but I think it has a big motor hump inbetween the seats and a old van style access from inside the van. I belive it has a very weak 4cyl motor that will be slower than molassas in January. I find the Old's flat floor and 4 bucket seat arrangment wtih the asile down the middle very handy, and the 3.4 v6 to be economical and very peppy - more than my dodge truck with a 360cid v8 ever was.

    you may think I'm biased against imports, but I'm not, I also own a '00 maxima SE.

    If you like smaller, underpowered vans like the Toyota, also see the Mazda MPV - not a bad design but over-worked motor IMHO.

    Also, compared to other "active" boards, the GM vans have few complaints. I doubt the low production Toyota vans of that vintage even have a forum. Also see the Olds and Chevy van archives

    good luck
  • jeff_servissjeff_serviss Member Posts: 8
    The way you make it sound is that your only going to get $2000 for a 1998 toyota. I would put the car in the paper, you should get alot more than that. Without looking up any numbers, I would think the car to be worth $5000 to somone. Also, look around for a lower mileage van. We have a 98 montana with 48k miles that my wife loves(I rarely drive it). There are to many used cars out there to settle on the deal you mentioned.
  • w2323w2323 Member Posts: 60
    My moms Montana with 32k, 1999 Montana. Had coolant problem, went to dealer they recommended the 30k mile checkup. 150 miles after the service no oil was on the dipstick and it was losing coolant. Brought it back to them.

    Gaskets replaced, coils replaced which appears to be a problem in all Montanas. My mom told them she wants a new engine they are giving her one.

    They will give her a new engine 0 miles, and will extend the warrenty another 5 years on the powertrain.

    I just want you guys to know so you can get the same thing she got. Don't put up with the crap that some of the inferior dealers tell you. This appears to be a problem for sure.

    Hope this helps you.
  • w2323w2323 Member Posts: 60
    If you need to look into extended warrantys, sams has one that has no deductable for about 1100.00 7 years/100k miles most other firms only have 6 years. You can take your car anywhere you want even the dealer no deductable. You have to ask sams about the 7 year/100k and no deductable its not on their site. Just call the 1800 number on your sams card and pick extended warrantys.

    Hope this helps you guys.
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    Dirkdaddy gave you some good advice. I want to elaborate on a couple of things.
    First, if you are really considering letting your Corolla go for only $2000 for a 98 with 70K mi. Respond back to me, I'll give $2,500 right now easy. (Hell I'll even come to Washington to pick it up.) In other words you are taking a beating on that car that you don't need to. Believe me I am currently in the market for a used Corolla/Prizm, and the car should be an easy!!! sell at $5,000 or more depending on condition.
    Check out Edmunds TMV on your Corolla you will be very suprised.
    As far as the Previa vs. Montana debate you are having: I would shop around a little more. I am very confident you can find a GM van that is newer than 97 with less mi for less than $9,500.
    I think that because the one you are considering is a 97 (the first year of production) it is more likely to have some maintenance problems than subsequent years.
    A good resource I have found is MSN carpoint for checking the reliability history of any vehicle. Go to MSN.com and click on autos, then go to used and find your vehicle. Then just click on reliabilty reports for the year you are considering.
    As far as the Previa is concerned, they are not bad vans, but working on them is difficult at best if you do your own maintenance, the engine is under the floor of the van, lying on its side.
    Also because it is a 93, the A/C system has the old R12 refridgerant. If youe ever have any problems with the AC system it will make the cost of repairs significantly higher.
  • dave231dave231 Member Posts: 17
    Sorry for the late respnse, I have been busy. No special procedure for depressurizing system just replace filter by squeezing clips and then crank engine. I have not seen any leaking fuel yet. good luck
  • tm666tm666 Member Posts: 1
    I am thinking of buying the 2002 Reg Length Special Value Model Montana. Don't need a big van and this seems to fit my budget. I like the fact that it comes with standard captains chairs in the second row. Plus lots of rebates now. anybody have any input on the regular length models as to reliability or negative experiences they had with one.
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    The length is really preference, should not effect reliability.

    We only have 1 child but I shopped for and bought the extended, its not THAT much bigger and heck, if you're going to drive a van anyway, the driving experience isn't that much different IMHO, and the room inside is considerably more. you supposedly (haven't tried) have room for a 4x8 sheet of plywood in the extended, that sold me as I'm replacing a pickup.

    Also check the deals on Olds, they have extended warr built in.

    DD
  • bcd99bcd99 Member Posts: 45
    A 4x8 sheet easily fits in my '01 Silo and a 10 or 12 foot long pipe or piece of anything will fit in between the front seats and still allow the rear door to shut. About the only thing you can't haul would be a load of mulch. Unless you have a trailer.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Did I miss something? I haul mulch in my minivan. Granted, I have to shovel it in. I put a cheap blue tarp in the back and up the sides, and have at it. Slides out easily too when I get home.

    Steve
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  • bcd99bcd99 Member Posts: 45
    OK, you can haul small quantities of mulch on a tarp. I meant you can't get 4 scoops of mulch dumped in like you can with a pick-up. But I guess next time I woin't have to borrow my friends F350 dually to get mulch, I'll just throw it in the van. *S*, nah I like driving the F350 with it 8 liter big block.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    lol, the truth comes out :-)

    Steve
    Host
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  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    #5 Pontiac Montana

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • baveuxbaveux Member Posts: 175
    the cladding, my Montana have the bottom half unpainted , and I wonder if waxing it will make it turn grey, what is your trick to keep it nice and shiny ??
  • burst80burst80 Member Posts: 1
    The Montana's have inherent A/C problems with the blower switch and the compressor. I have had 4 repairs. I have had 4 fuel injectors replaced. 4 repairs on my sliding door. There is 37,000 miles on the van now and GM will not help me. Don't make the same mistake I did.
  • mizeumlmizeuml Member Posts: 50
    Hello burst80. I was wondering if you could give us some more details on the A/C problems you have had. Like you, I have a lemon, '99 Montana, but GM forgot to paint it yellow.

    I had the A/C compressor replaced because it made a rattle noise when the A/C kicked in. The new A/C compressor has been fine.

    The other problem we have had intermittently is the A/C blower will quit for no reason. If you turn the blower switch to the off position and then back on, the blower will start running again. This problem comes and goes, but has been a while since we last experienced it. Have you had this problem? If so, what was done to fix it? We have the rear A/C unit also with the Ext. version van.

    Thanks,
    Matt
  • eliseocalderoneliseocalderon Member Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem with my Pontiac Transport. The A/C blower will stop to work without reason and after turning the A/C off and back on (sometimes) it will work. Or it will start working just by itself. At the end it just died. I replaced it (pretty easy to do BTW). No more problems after that.
  • drobin59drobin59 Member Posts: 26
    I've got a 99 montana that has 55,000 miles on it. In just the past two weeks, the manifold cracked, an emissions sensor went out and now the A/C compressor went out. Needless to say, this all adds up to a $2,000 bill! I don't think these things should fail in a car that's 2.5 years old! Anyone else have any problems like that?

    Thanks for any help you can give me!
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    if it makes you feel better, my 2000 maxima lost a O2 sensor at 12,000 miles / 10 months, and now is getting hard to start. The manifold cracking is bizzare. A/c compressors can fail if you run out of r132 freon. have them check for leaks for sure. with other makes you would probably be due for a transmission, so i guess pick your poison. The GM vans don't usually have that sort of trouble, i'd fix it and move on.

    DD
  • franksbeans1franksbeans1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Montana and since day 1 it has been making what sounds like a belt rattling noise in the engine. This mainly occurs when you come to a stop (like at red light), the rattle will happen anywhere from 5-25 seconds and stop. The A/C is not running when this happens. Every time I take this to the dealer the sound never happens...as usual. Any input/comments out there?
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    On your rattle, you don't really give enough information to go on, but since it rattles after the vehicle is stopped, that rules out some things. I'd have to guess a exhaust heat sheild is loose or something like that. I'm not sure what you mean by belt rattleing sound, as they usually only squeal if loose.

    One thing you could try is to kill the motor or take it out of gear right after coming to stop and see if that kills the noise.

    Also check Trans. fluid.

    DD
  • gmfornowgmfornow Member Posts: 2
    Hello folks. First let me say that this is an excellent message board, full of great tips. I have a 97 Transport LWB 4DR with 80 km / 50 miles. We have been mostly happy with it for 5 years...new front brakes/rotors, new rack&pinion steering column, new tires (two of them had blown radials), a pain in the #$@^%! rattle in both sliding doors (finally solved), and a few other minor problems here and there. However, over a period of the first 3 years we would notice our expansion tank level down about an inch (not alot of fluid, but), usually just prior to an oil change. The dealer explained that it was caused by evaporation because the expansion tank was not sealed. The usual top up and we were on our way. On two seperate occasions we had the coolant light illuminate while driving on the highway...so we took it to the nearest dealer and had it topped up. I never saw any coolant under the engine during this period. Just prior to the almighty Warranty expiring I took it in to the dealer and demanded they look for a leak. The van had 59 km / 35 miles at the time. They couldn't find a leak using the pressure test method, so they decided to put dye in the coolant and take another look. Nothing found after 1.5 days. Finally they told me there may be a leak at the water pump seal, so they replaced the pump and seal and off I went semi-satisfied. Two years later I am still topping up coolant occasionally (read 2/3 times a year) when once again the coolant light comes on. This time I go to top it up and I put nearly 2 pints in...not good. So I take it in to have it looked at, naturally at my expense and they tell me I have an internal leak and they think it might be bad, but will have to take off the intake manifold and have a look...probably a gasket or worse a cracked head if no gasket damage is evident. If I'm lucky, with a head pressure check and polish, plus new gasket, I'm good to go at about 1 g note. Well, no such luck...after removing the intake it looks like my engine has been idling for 5 years. A lot of gunk (read: Preston and oil mixed and burnt on to the heads and valve assembly). Only good news is it is pretty clear that the upper head gasket was the cause...at least two seperate cracks. Soooo a new estimate $2000 + cost of crank/cam/head inspection/polish - independently of course at my request. Basically, they have to remove the entire engine out of the van and disassemble, clean, inspect as above and try and remove all traces of the gunk, reassemble and hope all is well. Then generously offer a 90 day warranty. So far I have been able to convince GM Canada to foot half the bill, whatever that may finally be and fork out for a courtesy car. ( which I am currently driving while I decide whether or not to give them the green light. Any ideas or suggestions on what to do? The van has been running well...no loss of power, no knocking, cold am valve tick sound (probably caused by loss of oil lube/pressure from gasket crack), otherwise the van seems really good. Should I push GM to offer more on the repair? Are there any hidden warranties? Quick cleanup/fix and sell? If repair, anything special to look for to ensure its done right?
    Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance. gmfornow
  • missedbassmissedbass Member Posts: 48
    there seems to be a lot of vans out there with the mysterious coolant leak and most of the leaks come from the intake manifold gasket. How did the oil look when you changed the oil or checked the dipstick?
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    You have reported the incident under warrenty, GM should repair it - free. Its the same issue you had under warrenty the blew you off on. Hope you took it to a GM dealer for repairs, otherwise, they may balk a lot. Good luck. I also have some sort of leak. not in oil for now.

    dd
  • mjb56mjb56 Member Posts: 170
    I would advise you to contact Pontiac via e-mail on their website. I had the same problem, but I caught it early on. Our vehicle was out of warranty but GM covered it 50%, which I felt was fair. I got a good response via e-mail. They immediately assigned a case number to me, which indicated that something was going to be done. And it was. Good luck.
  • gmfornowgmfornow Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the response. I wrote quite a long winded story so I wasn't sure anyone would take the time to read it. Any how, my last oil change was in Jan/02 and Jun/01 before. I didn't actually look at the oil on either occassion. I had it done at Costco. The dip stick checks seem to be fine. I have been using Castrol Synthetic for the last 4 years...its probably what may have prevented my engine from falling apart...it creates an excellent molecular bond/lube for the metal parts...better than conventional oil because it doesn't lose its viscosity or breakdown. All my repairs and most oil changes have been done at a GM dealer. So maybe thats why they are willing to cover 50% of the bill so far...as a goodwill geture. But I think they should p/u the whole tab since I had this problem in my estimation for at least 3-4 years. And after looking at the condition of the head and intake assembly (valves, rockers,springs, etc.) its obvious that the damage has occured over a long period. Even the GM mechanic told me the same thing. I will probably end up agreeing to the complete removal and clean up of the engine at 50 % and hope that its done right, but I don't have a lot of confidence that the repair will be done well and will last. I think I will have to bite the bullet and dish out $1000 -1500 for my half and maybe try and trade it in...big lessons learned:
    A. don't buy new thinking I will have no problems.
    B. don't accept the dealers fixes unless I am 100% happy.
    C. no wait...what am I thinking...I have an AUDI A4 2.8 my 3rd Audi in 15 years and my last one was 18 years old and still ran as good as new...with a no creaks or groans...so maybe the moral of the story is...
    D. DON'T BUY @!#$% GM CRAP AGAIN.

    Thanks gmneveragain
  • pukiepukie Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Transport/Montana with a few problems that shouldn't be happening with a van that is less than 3 years old. I currently have 60k miles on it. The warranty ran out 25k miles ago, so there seems that there is not much I can do in that department.
    Here are the problems that I am having.
    #1. Like alot of other Montana owners in this site, I too have a problem with disappearing coolant. Where is it going? I top up the over flow tank about once a month and then the low level coolant light comes on about a month later.
    #2. Airbag warning light on steady. This only happens when my gas gauge drops under 3/4 tank. Once I fill up with gas, the light goes out until the gauge reads under 3/4 tank. Go figure! Explain this one to your mechanic. I have been keeping an eye on it for 2 months now, and the same results every time.
    #3. Hard upshift. I have to be careful when drinking coffee while driving. My vans upshift is so violant some times that I wish my airbag would deploy so I don't get a broken nose on my steering wheel.
    #4. WIPERS. THOSE D#$M WIPERS. I have replaced them twice now because they run into each other and get bent in two. I had the wiper motor looked at with no fault found.
    #5. Drivers side electric window. It never ever goes all the way up unless given a little bit of help with my hand.
    #6. Within the first 3 months of owning the van, the paint dissappeared from the front bumper. It began by bubbling and then flaking off. Yes, this was covered by the warranty and has held up since.

    I believe that this is all of it.
    I can't really afford to get these problems fixed because hey, I'm still paying for the van.

    I'm just praying that it holds up until the payments are done atleast.
  • startgstartg Member Posts: 1
    I am looking to buy a 1999-2000 montana. I want to know if the 3.4 litre engine is a good one? has there been any problems with it?
  • jservicejservice Member Posts: 11
    Hi all.

    I'm new to the forum, and I've read lots of interesting stuff. I have real mixed emotions about my 97 Trans Sport.

    I bought the van in September from a GM dealer here in Toronto after it had come off a lease. It had about 75,000 km on the clock, and was initially very pleased with it. Bought an extended warranty (3 years) and wondered if I was just throwing my $1,800 away or not. It turned out to be the best money I've EVER spent.

    At about 115,000 km, I had the notorious coolant leak problem. After topping up the reservoir a couple of times, it was diagnosed as an intake manifold gasket problem, and covered by the 3rd party warranty. At the same time, I had noticed the transmission was "hunting" for 3rd gear. The cause? 3rd gear clutch pack had blown itself apart, so the tranny had to be rebuilt. Total cost to me - $100. Total cost to warranty company - $3,500.

    It's now about 4 months and 9,000 km later. Four days ago, the engine died on the highway. Tried to restart it and couldn't believe the noises from under the hood. Towed it to the dealer. They've partially disassembled my COMPLETELY SEIZED ENGINE to discover a broken camshaft. The warranty company is sending out their adjuster. I guess they want to see if they can weasel out of paying. They demanded to see evidence of every oil change I've had done since purchasing the van 20 months ago. I don't think the warranty company has a leg to stand on - I've changed the oil every 3 months or so (6,000 km). My guess is that this repair will set the warranty company back another $4,000 or so.

    Thing is, that's not the only problems I have with the vehicle. Since it was in the shop anyway, I told the service advisor about the following:
    1. A/C compressor leaks oil from front seal
    2. Power sliding door is inoperative for the 4th time in 20 months
    3. Rack & Pinion is stiff
    4. Rear self-levelling shocks are leaking hydraulic fluid

    This should put the 3rd party warranty company out about another $1,500 - $2,000.

    At the end of all this, the warranty company is out about 10K. If I hadn't purchased the warranty, I would HATE this van.

    I'm curious about the broken cam thing... is this common with the 3.4L engine? Has anyone else run into this much trouble with one of these vehicles? Right now, I plan on selling this thing before the warranty expires in 16 months
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    Good Gosh, don't come near me!!! You've got a HEX on you!!

    AARRRRRRGGGHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!

    DD
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    It's the Extended Warranty Hex!

    No warranty, no problems :-) (and boy do I hope this one has legs in real life since I'm driving around "bare").

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • ody01ody01 Member Posts: 100
    Olden days each division made quality engines. Now all share corporate junk engines. Old 3.8L V6 in Transport much superior current 3.4L. Some 4.3L V6 good. All GM 4 cylinder engines junk. GM needs Honda 3.5L V6 for good minivan.
    Sedona also much better than GM minivans.
  • jflandersjflanders Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking into buying a Montana. Our dealer has a DEMO available. It has 2200 miles on it. How much should I ask be deducted from the price?
  • ody01ody01 Member Posts: 100
    Demo now used vehicle. Deduct $10,000 from sticker price. Dealer deduct $10,000 when owner want trade minivan with 2200 miles.
  • creidcreid Member Posts: 54
    ody01:
    You are absolutely on the money, I wanted to trade a 2001 Safari & the magic number was 10K upside down even when I purchased it w/ plan thru GM from dad.
  • ody01ody01 Member Posts: 100
    GM not only big depreciation. Odyssey owner wrote in Town Hall last year Odyssey EX added leather depreciate $10,000. Sienna owner report loaded Sienna XLE depreciate $13,000.
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Member Posts: 228
    I think dealers can sell a demo as new if it has not been titled. In that case, $.15 per mile from invoice might be a fair discount. Any rebate would be subtracted from that figure.
  • delaware95delaware95 Member Posts: 1
    In the next few days I plan to purchase an extended warranty. I am aware of two programs: "Warranty Gold" and "Warrantybynet". I will greatly appreciate any comments about these programs (good and bad).
  • rbb2rbb2 Member Posts: 70
    Recently I read an article that said stay away from demos.I wish I could refer you to it but I can remember where I read it.
  • mizeumlmizeuml Member Posts: 50
    Hello delaware95. I was in your position about a month ago. I did alot of research on extended warranty companies and decided to go with Warranty Gold. I would recommend them over the others unless you want to pay alot of money for the GM warranty. The Warranty Gold policy covered everything the GM warranty covered and was $850 cheaper. I would also recommend the $0 deductible. I purchased a Warranty Gold policy back in '99 when I bought my '99 Montana and just bought another policy last month when I bought my '02 Montana. As many problems as I had with the '99 Montana, this will be money well spent. My neighbor just bought a policy last week for his '02 Bonneville and two people from work are getting ready to buy a policy from them.

    I bought a 5yr/100k mi warranty with $0 deductible for $1050. If you plan to keep the van for a long time, they also offer a 150k mi warranty which is not much more, around $1400.

    If you want to try the Warranty Gold policy, call 1-800-580-9889, ext. 4746 and talk to Linda. Give her my policy number WG101650 and she should cut you a great deal.

    Good luck,
    Matt
  • nylawrencenylawrence Member Posts: 2
    My GM Warranty is about to expire on my 2000 Montana. Is it too late to get a Warranty Gold policy? So far, the van has been great. But now that I'm at 35,600 miles, I'm getting a little nervous. I generally don't think that extended warranties are a good investment, but I'm willing to consider it, if the price is right.
  • sanandtonsanandton Member Posts: 342
    Hi guys (and gals). New to this forum. Have a 2000 Pontiac Montanna with 54k miles on it. Did have to replace the Tranny at 36,300 miles. GM did help out a little even though it was post warranty. Anyway. We now have a screwy Temp reading. Here in the SE it has been mid 90s every day for the last month. The temp gauge just started out of the blue reading at least 40 degress off. It is saying 56 degress F when it is near 100 degrees. It is not in metric setting. Any Ideas?
  • jpwisemanjpwiseman Member Posts: 11
    My '99 Montana with 81k miles (only 40k miles on engine, though) finally got the infamous coolant leak problem. I called Pontiac and they acted like they really had a business case to help me ("owner loyalty" they called it)and wanted to help but needed a diagnosis from a GM dealer. I took it to a dealer but when I called Pontiac back they then took the stance that they know of "no coolant leak problems on the Montana". They had a comeback for every piece of evidence I had to the contrary including comments from independent garages ("they don't report their findings to us"), the service writer at the Pontiac dealer ("if they see these issues they need to report it to us directly") and the web, including this Edmunds chatroom ("on the Internet anyone can say anything they want to").
    It was the most frustrating conversation I've ever head.
    GM's "assistance" was a 10% discount, which is what I could get from a coupon from the back of the phone book, right? They quoted about $900 whereas the independent garage I'm going to take it to says they do these all day long for $350-$400.
    Once this is fixed all I can say is Adios Pontiac!!
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