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love the car (or at least did until last year), but is this the beginning of large annual investments? If the car is going to cost me, say, $1K a year in repairs every year then it's time to move on. Time for this love affair to end? What would you do?
thanks.
Thanks for any ones help.
John
Would you buy a car with this many miles? The allroad?
Im always hesitant to buy a high mileage vehicle, but for some reason this car is appealing to me. My other options are '03 A6 with 47miles, for 21k, or the '07 A4 with 11k miles for 34k.
help
Interested in what others think is expected max mileage for this car to be fairly reliable. Thank you!
Cheers
Paul
I have found a 2001 Allroad with 35k miles on it. It has a 6sp. Not to excited about the interior. (green) Looks like the inside of a gator, but it appears to be one owner Dr. It is in excellent shape. We have come to a price of $16,741.00 with the starting price of $18,999.00. Still seems that it is still about $500 over price, yes-no? It does not have the original tires but a set of snow tires, very good shape(tires drilled for studs but no studs)
I know nothing about this vehicle-although the price seem ok. Worried about future bills in repairs. I have no idea about MPG. With the turbos it runs the expensive stuff which is about $3.30 gal here hopefully it'll do as well as my SHO that I really drive hard-20-21
Ideas before I do some thing smart or incredibly stupid?
R
I'd love some eperienced feedback.
I have noticed that a lot of people worry about the mileage with these cars I have the 2.5TD V6 engine which I have owned for 3 years it has now done 128,000 Miles with nothing more than the annual service requirements. In that time there has been some minor faults like the rear washer pipe came off and one of the rear electric windows does not work, probably burnt out by the Kids. But apart from that I cannot fault it I still find it a pleasure to come to work in and there are non of the annoying rattles and squeaks that you get with lesser quality vehicles as they get older. I drove across black ice with children on board last winter and did not lose control unlike two other vehicles following which were complete right off''s. Saw a 2002 model adervtised with 250,000 on the clock. Diesel now costing the equivalent $9.34 per gallon in England, everyone is slowing down but hopefully not selling their Allroads..
Hope this helps.
I just bought my 2004 2.7T with 22,000 miles on the clock and paid what I believe to be a higher-than-market price after doing some research. But I love the car and the sting of the high price was soon forgotten. I can't imagine a car I want more than this one.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Andy
Has anyone else had this occurence?
Hope this helps.
Car is a lighly used 2001 Allroad with 30,000miles.
I don't know a lot about cars but for sure the transmission and master brake cylinders are SEALED. We don't see transmission or brake fluid spewing out of them, do we? Then how was mere rain water get in? If water can enter these components, does this mean I cannot drive in the rain ... or take the allroad thru a car wash? What gives? Help!!!
Frustrated in Greenwich ...
"15. Don't "warm up" the engine for more than 30 seconds EVER "
DO NOT EVER start driving before 1 minute for NA cars
DO NOT EVER start driving before 2 to 3 minute for turbo / supercharged cars
2001 Audi allroad 2.7 BI turbo "chipped" (reflashed ECU) = 80 HP 110 TQ, same driving style 4 to 5 miles MORE per gallon...
I drive to my girlfriends school on a weekly basis i use the same gas station every time. before chip i fill up going up then fill up when im back... now with it "chipped" i have 130 miles left to go. so i went from 330 miles PER TANK to 470 MILES PER TANK... and 98% of the drive in on cruise control at ~70/72 MPH
As for my sparkplugs, i noticed that at first they were a little rich, thats because more fuel more air. after about 100 miles they were the same as before the reflash. shows the computer had to "learn"... O2 sensors were replaced about 3000 miles before i reflashed it, at the same time i checked over hoses and vacuum leaks. Everything was the same.
so yes... the "chip" helps your MPG after your heavy foot becomes a feather again.
"10. Use the premium platinum 4 tip spark plugs that are designed for your car "
NOT recommended, depending on the car you might have a car with Coil On Plug, or Distributer. with coil on plug i would make sure you get the right temperature plug not if it has more cool looking electrodes. cars with distributers should do the most research, you need to consider things like;
can your car electrical output the right volts.
can your distributor module handle the extra watts
will your ECU correct the timing and wattage needed for these plugs.
if your car cant output the right volts then its worse on your ecc.
if you want good economy;
replace your fuel filter around 40k miles
get a k&n air filter and clean it ever other oil change
get the right sparkplugs (check forum on your model to see what gets best reviews)
use heat wrap on your intake and headers (hot air = worse air/fuel mix = poor ignition)
replace O2 sensors every 60k miles
use recommended oil for your car and current claimants
replace any leaky oil seals (leak = compression/emissions loss = poor economy)
keep your car clean, clean = less wind drag
inflate your tires 2 to 3 psi less then max (when you drive you will gain up to 5 psi depending on tire temp, keep it a little lower because if you curb your tire or hit a big pot hole you chance deforming the tire)
These are the basics to get better economy
if you want to get even better economy and better performance then...
Cold air intake kit with thermal wrap and isolator box
get headers and use heat wrap on them
relocate the catalytic converter downstream or under the chassis (some cars are like this some have it right by the firewall)
get high flow downpipes
high flow catalytic convertor
figh flow exhaust
upgrade your ignition system or ECU or BOTH depending on your make and model (older cars with distributers and ECU (94ish to 99ish) do both)
upgrade your fuel pump for 10 to 20 % more power
replace injectors with = or > oem (turbo people google it NA people don’t go over 20 to 50 cc over stock)
upgrade your fuel pressure regulator
get larger wheels and lower profile tires
remove all aftermarket body kits and wings
get a wideband air fuel ratio gauge
( and for those who really want to get into it message me)
Just bought a 2002 allroad with 50k miles on it. We have discovered a few issues that hopefully someone on this forum can help us with.
1) Front heated seats way too hot. Can't even set over a 2 on the dial. Looks like a burn has occured through the lower section of the seat back. Any advise?
2) Air suspension works but it does take 30sec - 2 minutes to adujust. It does however seem to hold. Is this normal?
3) Sometimes when I back up for a good distance, a noise like a compressor comes on. It stays on for 15-30 seconds even after I stop the car. Any ideas?
Is my car haunted?
Any help would be very much appreciated?
Tks,
Wally
The compressor is located behind the driver side rear wheel, it will come on to maintain your current ride hight. From my understanding when you unlock the car it should lower it self for easy of entry, and when you start the car it will turn on to bring it back to your settings.
As for the seats.... i would take that down to audi. Sounds like the switch and or relay might be bad. I know my site on 3 will keep me warm, and on 6 its hot hot, but not to the point i want to ice my butt. And if the seat plastic is melting then you really know you have a problem, could be a short and or a ground problem.
(sorry for any typeos on a iphone)
If the aluminum trim is rusting, you can find replacements by looking on popular Audi sites and/or auction sites. You can also fit trim from regular A6 Audis on there, though it's not the brushed aluminum. It'll have to be painted to match the car. You can also try cleaning it up with some steel wool and brushing with the grain. You'll probably have to brush the entire piece for a uniform look, but brushed aluminum is not bad looking.
this one
It has about 100k and is said to be in good condition but i'd like to find out what are the most frequent problems which i'd be able to check. I've read some owners who say the transmission in used audi needed maintanence and i'm affraid of this problem as the rapair is rather expensive one. Is there a way to chceck its condition?
Good luck.
It has now been working Okay for three weeks, I finally understand the phrase 'patience is a Virtue'
Can anyone popint me in the right direction or supply me with details of how the suspension system works and if anyone has used Arnott Industries Replacement parts.
Also one of my rear door electric windows is not working, having taken door panels off other cars they never went back on the same and came loose and started rattling. Has anyone removed any of the door panels, if so can you let me know how it went.
I have owned this car for Four years and it has done 130,000 miles I have it serviced at my local garage once a year (not Audi) at a cost of about $200 and apart from tyres that all it has cost. Keep thinking about changing to something cheaper but Its just such a great family car and I still enjoy driving it and driving in the UK is not much fun anymore.
Cheers
Window problem is eletrical, taking door panels apart should be easy just be carefull, but before you do that, check all eletrical conections and fuses related to that window. Good luck.
Hope this Helps
Regards
Andrew
Remove the whole shock or strut
Fill a bucket with water
place shock or strut in bucket
use an air compressor with a "stream sprayer" WITH a rubber tip
and fill the big so there is pressure to check for leaks.
if you find no leaks then its time to replace the compressor/distributing solenoid valve. I found it pointless to just replace one or the other because they will both fail around the same point (poor design in the contactor on solenoid). you can get a referb. compressor for 395 from Arrnot and the distributing manifold can be bought from a local Audi dealer for 495 or 520. The ride height sensor has its own code that it will screw with your head lights so you would know very fast it that died on you ($174 each)
I replaced my front springs with Arnotts last winter. After being quoted $2k for both sides I was thrilled to discover an aftermarket DYI solution.
Other than problems disconnecting my suspension ... and not having the right tools, the springs were easy to install. I think we got the second side installed in about 45 minutes, after figuring things out on the first side.
So far they have worked perfectly.
As above, my Arnott air bags have been perfect. If you decided to take off the OEM ones, be advised there is a press fit fastener that holds the assembly in place that you have to remove. It's a bugger to remove and was not mentioned in the Arnott instructions.