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If you have not used a cleaner in the system to this point, I would recommend it. It absolutely should not harm the system; at worst it will make no noticable difference and at best will even help.
187K (with some change) and counting!
I've just purchased a 1998 Subaru Outback legacy wagon. It has 111,000 miles on it and appears to have been kept in good working order. I got in the car this morning and turned the key and absolutely nothing happened while the "check engine" light came on. When I say nothing happened, the starter didn't click, nor the engine engage. It was like turning the key to open a door. I tried several times and then the car started up fine and there was no "check engine" message. I looked in the manual and this particular situation wasn't dealt with.
I'm hoping someone can give me an indication of what the problem is. I'd hate to be sitting out in the middle of nowhere with a car that doesn't start.
Thanks for your time.
Regards,
Andy Ginsberg
Best thing to do to find a mechanic is to go to the "mechanX files" at the Car Talk section of cars.com. note that a lot of foreign car garages work on Subarus but don't necessarily note it there.
Depends on how long you plan to keep it. Some folks change the seals in the front of the engine and replace the O ring in the oil pump, since they're both prone to failure. Others even change the cam belt at 90K instead of waiting. But most people just do the routine service. You can find what is suggested here:
http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html
If I can get our mechanic to remember what it was he replaced, I post.
Dick in Ohio
First off, congrats on your Outback. I've got a '91 Legacy (233k miles) and an '04 Outback (18k).
Sounds exactly like a situation a co-worker of mine had with her '03 Forester. You may have done this, but the first thing I'd do is (if it's an automatic trans) move the shifter out of park and then back into park. It may look like it's in park, but may not quite be, or perhaps that sensor in the shifter is off just a bit. If the car thinks it's not quite in park (or not in neutral) it won't start, for safety reasons. Not sure how familiar you are with Subarus, but in order to move the shifter without the engine running you need to have your foot on the brake and the key turned to allow accessory power (when you're twisting, the first stop's for the radio, the next stop's for accessories, and then the ignition).
First time something similar happened to me I panicked, but eventually noticed I had left it in drive when I shut the car off the previous night.
I don't think the check engine light is meaningful unless the engine has been running for a few minutes and it stays on... it may have just been illumated because the key was turned enough to allow accessory power, lighting your dash indicators.
Or it could be a relay like Dick said. My 2 cents.
-Jeff
I get only 24 mpg from my 1998 2.5 legacy Outback. Underinflated tires have got me before. I have tried changing my airfilter to a K&N and will soon remove the cross bars on my roofrack. I am thinking about changing spark plugs and increasing the gap to about .50-.55. Also, I would like to know if anyone has made exhaust changes and do they help? :confuse:
Andy
Thanks again.
Andy
I just bought a 2005 Legacy 2.5i sedan this week, and am very happy so far.
However, I'd love to replace the ash tray with a spring loaded coin holder.
This is, of course, difficult due to the small size and specific shape of the existing ash tray.
Anyone know of an after market coin holder that is small enough to work in this capacity? I am not afraid of using a Dremel on it to get it to fit either, so "close" might be good enough....maybe.
Anyone?
If worse came to worse, I suppose I could always replace the ash tray if I wreck it.
Thanks
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-juice
Paid $600 out the door in North Carolina
Thanks.
According to an article I saw in a trade publication, H could become the minimum grade if proposed new govt testing regulations were to go into effect. T & S just don't have the temp shedding ability, and delaminate too easily.
Steve
Take a look at the UTQG of the tire next: the number on the sidewall that reads something like 400/A/B. The first number denotes the manufacturer's treadwear rating. The higher the number, the longer the treadlife compared to a "test" tire.
http://www.tireguides.com/tip4.html
My favorite H-rated all season tires were the Dunlop SP5000s. Reasonable price, good treadwear, very good traction for an all-seaon.
Ken
The second number is heat resistance. What you'll find is generally S-rated tires only get a B here, while H- and better usually get an A.
That might be an issue when tires are underinflated or when you have a heavy load and go long distances. Tires get very hot, imagine you're driving in Arizona far from any service station and hit a pothole and lose some air, so you're now with 20psi in the tires.
Now, do you want an H-rated tire, or S-?
-juice
-juice
Thanks in advance
Dick
Don't ask me why, but I remembered reading this last year, and was able to find it this morning for you. I assume that when they say "Legacy" in the tech article, that the clutch cylinder components are probably identical to those used on the Outback. With a few exceptions, most parts are...
This sounds pretty much what you describe:
http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ClutchInfoWin04.pdf
Good luck,
Steve
From another perspective: If you sit down in the center rear seating position and latch yourself in with the provided lap belt, the "strap" mentioned above should be buried between the cushions just to the right of the latch point.
I hope that helps!
-Wes-
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Ain't no way anyone's gonna smoke (tobacco) in my Outback anyway! :shades:
Now if someone could come up with an aftermarket replacement for the whole console that would be good. The seat heater switches should go somewhere else, the cup holders moved forward, and the storage compartment made bigger and deeper and bilevel...like on Camry's and Accords.
thanks
-juice
http://azpinstalls.com/
Tell mike juice sent ya, he's also on these boards as "paisan".
-juice
I had the same problem the first time I took my 2000 OBW through the Pine Barrens with Paisan and others. After that I tracked down the skid plates, and have had no problem since. Mike does make it now for the OB (he didn't at the time). The skidplates also come in handy for protecting the underside while driving through the streets of NY
Mark
or this: http://www.engadget.com/entry/1234000513047866/
I have this one and it works reasonably well for under $30 -- I got mine at Costco for about $25. Lets me put MP3s onto a USB drive or plug any device into it and then broadcast to the FM. Here is the manufacturer's page: http://www.vr-3.com/vr3_fmmod.html
Good luck!
--K9Leader
Thanks for the advice and recommendation. The standard cover isn't much for hard off road duty. One other thing, I installed the rear shift protector on the OB back in 2001. After seeing a jeep that run over a large piece of wood buried in the sand and had the shift casing dented but somewhat OK, the rear protector is a must have.
I was hoping to get some opinions on the price of a 1998 Outback Wagon before I write the check.
It's the standard model (not the Limited) with a few extras (CD, "tweeter upgrade", seat warmers, keyless entry). It has 35K miles. It's red/maroon.
This is through Carter Subaru here in Seattle, and the car has gone through their standard checklist... with minor repairs being done.
Our agreed-price is $16,300. Any thoughts? Should prices be going down now that the 2002s are going to be on their lot within the next couple weeks?
Thanks.
Mark
But stronger plates should be standard or at least offered as an option. Now serious off-road or rally driving (something I don't plan to do in the OB) is a different set of requirements on the car.
I quess that brings a question to mind: has anyone on this board taken a standard/stock OB to an rally course?
Rich
In town (stop/go) and cold temps bring my mileage down. Winter (below 20F) I get about 23.
--jay