Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Subaru Legacy/Outback

1213214216218219230

Comments

  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Was reading an article in Endwrench and they mentioned that a couple of screws on the oil pump back can back off 1/16" of an inch or so causing a seal to be pushed forward out of its normal location due to receiving pressure it wasn't designed for. Wish I could remember which seal. :confuse:

    In ant event, while the rest of the seals are being looked at, it may be a good idea to look at the pump itself.

    HTH

    Larry
  • paul_phillypaul_philly Member Posts: 16
    Hi all,

    I currently own a 2005 Acura RL and while it's pretty awesome, I need to trade it for something more economical. My only requirement is AWD, so I was thinking about trading the RL for a base model 2.5i Legacy sedan.

    I'm unfamiliar with the Legacy, and Subaru in general, so any advice you can provide is very helpful. Is the car reliable, are there numerous TSB's out there now, how about the resale, would you buy one again, etc.

    Thanks again for your help.
  • ebony5ebony5 Member Posts: 142
    I just recently began hearing an occaissional squeak from one of my rear brakes (left?). I had new new pads and the rotors resurfaced on the rear brakes about 12,770 miles ago at 67,794 and the fronts done about 15,000 miles ago. I now have approx. 80,500k on the car a '96 OBW. I am fairly busy the next couple of weeks including some extensive car travel. my questions are- What could be causing this? How important is it that I get it looked at sooner rather than later;would I be causing more extensive and expensive damage?
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    Paul - Subaru was Consumer Reports's most reliable brand this year (yes, ahead of Lexus, Toyota, Honda and Acura). Their reliability in general has been good for a long time, but has been consistently good in recent years.

    Subaru has one of the best, and most efficient, AWD systems around, so you're definitely covered there.

    Subaru has long produced reliable, good-handling, and durable vehicles (my '91 Legacy has 225k miles now), but hasn't been known for refinement or good looks. In the last several years, the company has set out to change that, aiming for a higher level of design and quality of interior materials.

    Its first major effort toward that end was the 2005 Legacy, which instantly garnered much praise, including winning Car of the Year in Japan. It scored the highest safety ratings ever recorded in Australian safety testing at the time. Legacy received the highest marks in all safety testing in the US except for the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety's side-impact test, which was marginal (the middle rating), I believe. Subaru beefed up Legacy's already impressive structure even more and aced the IIHS test with its '06 Legacy model, becoming the only model in its class (mid-size, moderately priced) to achieve the highest rating in front, rear and side impacts. In fact, even when you add in the mid-sized luxury and near-luxury competitors, only the Saab 9-3 matched Legacy's performance.

    It certainly won't match your RL feature-for-feature, but for the Legacy is a great value - well-equipped, extremely safe, reliable, decent performer, good looks and great AWD. Subaru is considered by many to have the most European feel of any Japanese brand, with an emphasis on driving rather than luxury.

    I'd recommend the Legacy 2.5i Special Edition, which is essentially the base model for '06, or the 2.5i Limited. There is a true base model available, probably by order from the factory, if you prefer, but the 2.5i SE will be much more common and has a great set of features for the price, adding a power driver's seat and moonroof for under $300 more than the base 2.5i. Over the SE, the Limited adds dual zone climate control, 6-disc CD changer, leather, heated seats, heated mirrors and front-windshield wiper deicer for about $2000 more - again, a great value, and probably more of a similar feel coming from the RL.

    Check out the Legacy page at cars101.com for a ton of Subaru and Legacy info, including invoice prices.
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    You realize the kind of hit you're going to take on a trade in - don't you? Although the idea of trading down to a more economical car may sound like a good idea, the loss you'll see on trading in a 1 YO vehicle will take a long time to recoup.

    Good luck in whatever decision you make.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I would at least get a 2.5i Limited model, which would have a moonroof, leather, 6CD, and some other nice things you may have become accustomed to. Then it'll only be smaller and less powerful.

    You're going from a $50k car to a $25k car, but I don't think you'll feel poor in a Limited model.

    -juice
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Hmmm.... could be several things, but if it is consistently coming from that location and is remaining occasional, I would begin by checking whether or not anti-squeal compound was sufficiently added between the pad backings and the caliper pistons. The pistons press against the pads and force them against the rotors. This causes vibration, and if the metal of the piston is contacting the metal of the pad backing a squeal could result. If it looks like this could be it, you can test the theory by adding some anti-squeal compound to it (should take about $5 for the compound and 15 minutes to jack up the car, remove the wheel, release the caliper, add the compound (let set up per instructions), reset the caliper, add the wheel, lower the car, and torque the lug nuts.

    It is also possible that it is just brake dust or similar that is rearing up occasionally, in which case you could spray the assembly/rotor down with brake cleaner.

    Finally, it could be something serious, but I very much doubt it at this point. It is worth checking if it is making you nervous - especially with some trips coming up! Wow... only 80.5K on it?! It is still just a baby! :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • bbob3bbob3 Member Posts: 1
    My recent purchase of a 99 Outback Wagon L. is now home to a mouse. Today I found dry grass intertwined with light colored insulation material. I cleaned out the nest and it will probably be rebuilt since I live in the country. My question is: where in the Subaru did the insulation come from? I didn't see any obvious place. The mouse has not got inside the car. Thanks. bbob3
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Wow!

    I had rodents in my attick, and I read you can use ammonia to repel them. I plugged up the hole they were using the get in, and placed a bowl there to keep them from trying to get back in.

    Of course you won't have the barrier that I placed, but I wonder if the ammonia would help?

    -juice
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    My question is: where in the Subaru did the insulation come from? I didn't see any obvious place. The mouse has not got inside the car.

    The insulation is probably from your walls. Mice are known to build nests in nice warm places. They'll be back without a deterrent. My advice is get a cat.
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    for those who only need snow tires occ and don't want 2 sets of tires, consider the Nokian WR, it is snow traction rated but can be run all year. Have found them very good on a minivan all year, I also run the predecessor, the NRW, as winter tires on my Legacy last 3 seasons. Have also replaced the stock Goodyears on my Tribeca with WRs. In summer weather they are as good as the stock all seasons which I have had on my Subarus - those lousy Potenza RE92s, or the Goodyear Integritys which came with the Windstar.Only problem is that they are directional so watch that alignment! On ice they are not as good as Blizzaks though.
  • jbailey1jbailey1 Member Posts: 2
    Howdy!

    I bought this car used in May 2003 with 75K on it for $10K. Now it has 105K and still seems to be going fine. I've done the usual maintenance stuff, had the timing belt changed, etc. She's going in to get scoped since I've never really had a full diagnostic, and I think the crappy additive-full gas has made the performance a little off. Probably have them clean up the fuel system. Mileage is consistently around 26.5 MPG, and I can't say that I've had any real trouble (knock wood). Is there anythign I should watch out for in a car this old with this much mileage? I really don't want another car, but in the event of a catastrophe, is it a good idea to keep investing in this one(like new engine or tranny, etc)?

    I really like this car, but after reading about other folks having meltdowns after a certain mileage, I thought I'd ask.

    Thanks!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's what we did to our 626 to restore some lost performance, and it helped. Gaithersburg Mazda did it, but it wasn't cheap.

    You're getting 26.5 mpg, though. I'm not sure I would mess with a good thing.

    I doubt it would hurt if you find a reputable shop.

    -juice
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    Is there anythign I should watch out for in a car this old with this much mileage? I really don't want another car, but in the event of a catastrophe, is it a good idea to keep investing in this one(like new engine or tranny, etc)?

    Yes, watch out for bubbling in the coolant overflow tank, a sign of leaking head gaskets that are the bugaboo of this vehicle. If you don't catch it you'll fry the engine. If you do catch it it's about a $1,200 repair at a garage or $1,600 at a dealer.

    Other common maintenance is replacement of camshaft and engine front seals, and the oring on the oil pump, along with the belt replacement that is due if the '99 is the same as a '97.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Agreed on those points, but another timing belt replacement should not be due for another 60K miles or so, unless you have cause to dig into the engine that far anyway (such as leaking cam seals, oil pump, water pump, etc as mentioned). It might be worth a bottle of "leak stop" or the "subaru additive" to the coolant just in case of any pending HG problems....
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jbailey1jbailey1 Member Posts: 2
    Well the shop I got recommendations for said they scoped it and didn't find anything amiss, that it needs an EGR control, fuel injector clean out, tune up, and that my plug wires have been chewed on. I live in a rural area, and my cats are always chasing varmints up under my car.

    I had some assorted seals done when they did the timing belt last year, so I should be fine for a few miles after this latest batch of work. I'd been having some hesitation and idle hiccups, so hopefully this will take care of it and get my MPG back up to the 30 I got a year ago.

    The grand total is suppossed to be about $550. A lovely Xmas surprise :cry:
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Shoot, if your mpg is anywhere close to 30, you'll make it up as you drive it. Right now, mine is holding steady at 20.5 with primarily highway driving; probably a 70-30 mix. I haven't even seen 25 in years except on trips to Anchorage. I purchased an EGR valve back in Sept for it, but still have not received the item. :mad: That reminds me, I should check on it - knowing that company, they never ordered the part.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • skibud2skibud2 Member Posts: 1
    Let's see these are the problems I have had with this car thus far:

    1) Sensors kept failing and engine light kept coming on
    2) Passenger side foot-well filled up with water from the air conditioner and they could not figure out what was wrong. Now my car smells awefull.
    3) The interior electronics are flakey. The dimmer changes settings on its own. Once again, they said that there is no problem.
    4) And recently the engine died, and subaru is refusing to cover it. There was no obvious leak of oil and the oil light never came on.

    I love this company.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Do you have a ticket open with 800-SUBARU3? Sounds like you have a lazy dealer.

    Were you checking the oil level? Did they say it was low? A lot of details are lacking.

    -juice
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    I just read, and confirmed in the brochure that there is such a beast as an Outback 3.0R wagon. I like this because I didn't fit in the other H6 wagons with sunroofs - not enough headroom.

    But I don't find any listed on local dealer websites?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    They just came out for 06, so be patient, they will trickle in to dealers. The base Legacy GTs are gone, so this sort of replaces those.

    -juice
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    I am beginning the new vehicle search and I will also look at this vehicle. It should address the power shortcomings of my 98 Outback without being quite as intoxicating as the XT. I think there are only a few in the whole Twin Cities metro area, so they are available, apparently just not in great supply yet.
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    I've found two in inventory so far - one way up in Maine, and a green one in MA.

    I'm going to look at the available colors tonight and see what it will cost me to order one. Dealer says it will probably take 3-4 weeks to get one.

    Like the V6 Accord, this promises to be a great sleeper, once I remove the 3.0 badge. And no silly hood scoop like the '97.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Hahaha.... I agree on that. But, there's a quick fix for the '97 hood scoop.... swap the hood out with a '96!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • mommyof2girlsmommyof2girls Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Legacy sedan. When the car is moving, the heat is just fine; however, when I am stopped (at a stop sign, in a drive through, behind an accident, etc.), the temperature change is dramatic. The blower is working just fine but it seems like its blowing cold air. Any suggestions?
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    When it does this, do you notice if the coolant temperature gauge moves? When I had a blown head gasket, I would get cold out out of the vents when I stopped, but the temperature gauge would also start to climb very quickly.

    I'm sure there are other explanations, but this is something to look for next time.

    Karl
  • mommyof2girlsmommyof2girls Member Posts: 2
    My temp. gauge stays right in the middle. Its just the temp inside the car drops. Is there any possibility its the thermostat or something like that?
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    What Karl was describing is a situation in which pressurized gases get pushed out of the combustion chamber and into the cooling system. The heater core (in-dash heat exchanger for the cabin) is one of the higher spots in the system, so the gas can collect there and block/retard hot fluid flow at low engine speeds (as in when you stop).

    There are certainly other things that can cause this, but it could be an early warning sign that a larger problem looms. It would be good to have it checked.

    Steve
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    I agree. The most likely culprit is gas (or air) which can form a pocket in the heating coils at lower RPMs especially, but the big question is how it got there. If the coolant level is just a bit low then great, but if not, then there is gas being injected into the system from some source.... possibly a head gasket leak.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    So what's the best way to push the air out of there and keep it out?

    Jim
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Jim,

    One way to help 'burp' the system is to jack up the nose or drive up ramps. This helps to put the top of the radiator higher than the heater core. Rev it a bit to help push fluid thru all paths, and the air should find its way to the filler neck.

    As long as there is no new source of air, it should stay purged. It is always possible that she just ran the coolant low and that this will be a one-time event.
    But with the history of HG issues on the pre 2000 DOHC engines, I fear that "mommyof2girls" problems will return. I would strongly suggest a pressure test be done to confirm.

    Steve
  • subieseekersubieseeker Member Posts: 3
    I'm currently driving a 2003 Audi A4 Avant 1.8T manual. I've never had a car that was so much fun to drive, or one that's had to spend so much time in the shop. So now I'm looking at the car I probably should have bought in '03--the Outback wagon, but I want something similar in handling and pickup to my Audi. I'm leaning to the XT, but the poorer mileage and premium fuel requirements are negatives. I'm wondering how much difference there really is between the XT and the non turbo 2.5. My Audi gets 170 hp @ 5900 rpm, but I'm told that the 170 hp subaru would not feel the same without the turbo. The obvious solution would be to test drive both cars, but I can't find both of them anywhere. Sticks are apparently a specialty market, or so the dealers tell me. So, I'm looking for feedback from anyone familiar with these cars, just in case I have to order one.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Some people just prefer turbos, the rush that you feel when the boost kicks in. That rush is excaberbated by the fact that there is a little lag before it kicks in. So at first you have less power, then BAM, much more.

    The 2.5l is very different, it's torquey and very linear in its power delivery. So it never feels slow or laggy, but then again it never presses you back in your seat the way a turbo does in full boost.

    Oddly enough, most people prefer the linear route, and complain audibly about turbo lag, throttle lag, non-linear power, etc.

    -juice
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    How much does the Audi weigh? Face up to the fact that 2.5l Subarus are slow. Few of them will break 9 seconds 0-60 (neinther of my 97's did) and it gets worse from there. They work extremely hard when the vehicle is loaded in hills on the highway. People who say their performance is good are moving up fom 4 cylinder Camrys or some other similar roadblock. Mileage drops precipitously as you laod up and drive uphill at 75 or 80, although the flat four is perfectly happy to buzz away for hours like that. You will not get to know the Subaru dealer as well as the Audi dealer, from my experience.

    The 2006 models have variable valve timing and 175 peak hp. I've heard they are much more responsive at around-town and highway speeds, but won't have a chance to drive one until tomorrow.

    I'm planning to buy a 3.0R (flat six) but that's a big price increase. I didn't seriously consider the XT because although quick they're thirsty. But I drive a lot.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Stick to a stick. C&D got 0-60 in 8.8 seconds, and that was the previous generation, with more weight and a couple fewer horses, so the new ones should be as quick or better.

    The autos are geared tall for economy but they're relatively slow (still adequate for most).

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    The 1.8T was a solid performer with a nice broad torque curve, but it was hampered by the weight of the A4. I think the new 2.5L engine mated to a 5MT could give you a similar experience (I haven't driven one yet).

    However, neither the new 2.5 nor the 1.8T will come close to the performance of the 2.5 turbo.

    I think the best match for you coming from an A4 Avant would not be the Outback, but the Legacy. Unfortunatley, Subaru no longer offers the Legacy GT wagon with 5MT in 2006 -- if you could find a used 2005 model, you'll probably have the best upgrade to your A4 experience.

    Ken
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    Stick to a stick. C&D got 0-60 in 8.8 seconds, and that was the previous generation, with more weight and a couple fewer horses, so the new ones should be as quick or better.

    What will yours do? My first two were both closer to 10 seconds. Most road tests recorded 0-60 for the Outback of 9+ seconds. And the numbers closer to 9 seconds are the 97-99 that weighed less than the 2000-2004 models. They ranged up to 10.7 seconds for a '97 at TheAutoChannel to 11.7 seconds for a 2005 at CR. A manual 2002 Legacy GT tested here recorded 9.3.

    You'll have to decide what level of peformance you're looking for. The A4 1.8T's are all faster than the 2.5l Subarus. The XT has all the performance you could want, at the cost of higher purchase price and Premium fuel.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That engine was peppy with a manual, but a friend had a Passat TipTronic with a 1.8T and it was just gutless.

    In fact I'd argue that the torquey 2.5l is better suited to an automatic. The 1.8T/auto took forever to build up the boost and get going.

    My friend ended up chipping the engine, which helped some, but the Tiptronic was so slow that he chipped the transmission as well!

    The 1.8T was best suited to a light, manual tranny car. If you're coming from an auto, I don't think the Outback will feel slow.

    -juice
  • wmquanwmquan Member Posts: 1,817
    Is the 2.5i with a manual really that much slower than an A4 1.8T with a manual? An Outback 2.5, with a 2.5 is 3,320 lbs, 3,370 if you get the Limited. A 2003 Audi A4 Avant with a stick weighed 3,516 pounds.

    The 1.8T was 170hp @ 5900 RPM, 166lbs/torque @ 1950 RPM

    The 2.5 is 175hp @ 6000 RPM, 169lbs/torque @ 4400 RPM
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    The 1.8T was 170hp 5900 RPM, 166lbs/torque 1950 RPM

    The 2.5 is 175hp 6000 RPM, 169lbs/torque 4400 RPM


    I'm not an expert but that torque figure on the 1.8t tells you a whole lot. No need to ring out the gears to achieve greater velocity.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    I agree with that assertion; a lot of the power is going straight to the pavement real early on, so regardless of the final 0-60 time, it is probably going to feel a whole lot faster.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    So, I had to put new tires on my OBW earlier than preferred due to an "internal structural failure" in two of the tires that lead to constant air loss of 5-10# per day, and slowly but steadily becoming worse. It was not as bad as it could have been, considering that this happened in the winter months when less heat builds up in the tires (reduces chance of blowout) and because it was only 3 months shy of my planned replacement date.

    Again, for this car, I have decided to stick with all-seasons as I do not think I would get adequate return from investing in a set of dedicated winters.

    After looking around town at what was available in all seasons at any vendor with whom I was willing to do business, I went with Goodyear Assurance TripleTreds - $90 each from Sears, plus a bunch of misc fees to up the total to $475 installed. :sick:

    Oh well: With shipping, I would have paid about the same price for anything cheaper from tire rack, etc. (one problem with living in Alaska).

    After having the tires on the car for 24 hours, I see a noticable improvement on snow/ice over the old Goodyear Allegras that came off it. Of course, those again were at 75K miles, so they were worse this year than in previous years as well. Stopping distance (at full lockup on snowpack/ice) is a good 1/3 less and I have to work pretty hard to break loose on the ice during acceleration. It likes to break loose on turns fairly easy, but it responds incredibly well to corrective actions when recovering so it is more fun than anything. :blush:

    Overall, good impression so far. I just want them to wear well and last for close to the 80k treadwear warranty. That should keep them on the car for its remaining useful life. :D
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wmquanwmquan Member Posts: 1,817
    Perhaps, but we'd need to see the torque curves of the two engines to know for sure. A lot of it depends on how much torque the 2.5 puts out at lower RPM's. It may be less but it doesn't have to be a lot less.

    But the previously referenced A4 Avant 1.8T was heavier, and you'd have to wait for a delay before the turbo built up some of that low-end torque peak.

    The new VW/Audi 2.0T engine addresses a lot of these shortcomings, however. But that's a discussion for another forum.

    Now, step up to a 2.5 turbo and you won't have any complaints. Sure it's heavier on the gas, and sure it takes premium. BTW the 1.8T and the 2.0T also take premium too.
  • subieseekersubieseeker Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the feedback on the Outback. I wouldn't consider an automatic--the other drivers in the house would mutiny. I'm not a fan of the tiptronic, even forgetting performance. I find it to be a very unsatisfying way to shift, and I keep slamming my left leg down looking for a clutch. I guess you get used to it, but it seems like a high maintenance automatic. We live off an unpaved road and have gone through struts on previous cars; that's why I'm leaning to the Outback. (The Avant has a sport suspension.) I know this isn't Engines 101, butI'm pretty vague on torque. I gather that the goal is to have the highest torque at the lowest rpms? Do you really notice a difference in performance if you use midgrade rather than premium? My Audi dealership told me to disregard the driver's manual and use midgrade, and I can't see any driving differences--unless it improves mileage. I'd be tempted to do that with the Subaru.
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    Premium fuel is "required" by the manufacturer on Subie turbo engines. Use of other fuel may void your warranty. You could get away with it on Subie 6-cyls, where premium is only "recommended". Seems like most posts I've read find it a tossup whether it's cheaper to run regular in the 6-cyl and get decreased mileage, or pay for premium and get higher mileage.

    The extra cost of premium should be under $20/month if you drive a typical amount.
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    Incidentally, I've got an '04 Outback and am amazed how well it rides on gravel Forest Service roads. I can only imagine the newer models are just as good or better off of pavement.
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    Premium fuel is "required" by the manufacturer on Subie turbo engines. Use of other fuel may void your warranty.

    Is this true? The brochures that I just picked up, which I acknowledge are not gospel, say it is only recommended.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    FYI

    Day two: I found what I would consider a big trade off (shortcoming?) with these tires! Going in reverse is not pretty. Perhaps it is just a matter of the difference in how good the traction is going forward, but last night I was trying to back up through my yard/forest (somewhat uphillish and uneven, sloped terrain with a few trees for a good slalom effect)last night in order to reach my shed, and while it scurried through the 10" of snow with ease nose-forward, it was having none of it in reverse. I eventually backed it about to where I wanted to go, but as I had to go back uphill before swinging down to get out, I was a little worried that I bit off more than the ol Subie could chew. I did the work I needed to do and exited with no problems at all.... not even a slip of a tire. So, the next time I put myself in a hairy situation I know that with these tires backing will not be the way out.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Honestly, I think that engine was better suited to some of the lighter cars it was offered on. An Audi A4 Avant with Tiptronic was up there in weight, I would not call that slow but it's not exactly sporty either, unless you chip it.

    -juice
  • subiefan1subiefan1 Member Posts: 3
    You should test drive an automatic non turbo 2.5 and imagine gaining about 1 second from 0-60 using a stick. Also, checkout the power to weight ratio (car and driver website or others) comparison. You'd prefer the Turbo I'm sure because the automatic non-turbo 2.5's are really pokey. I've got a manual Legacy and a manual WRX. Guess which one is more fun to drive?
Sign In or Register to comment.