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Subaru Legacy/Outback

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Comments

  • amcneilamcneil Member Posts: 1
    just bought a 3.6 liter outback(automatic) with 45 miles on it drove it 300 miles and experienced transmission problems seven times; popping, grinding, revving, pausing and then lurching forward. The car is now back with the dealer. Any advise?
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    edited December 2010
    I have a thought on your 'self arming' system. I have an '02 Outback Wagon and installed the Subaru OEM Security System kit myself. In '03 it was changed slightly when it became a standard feature, but it is probably overall quite similar in layout and operation.

    There actually is a passive arming mode that can be activated by plugging in a connector located down by the fuse box on the lower left drivers side foot well. However, it still requires that you use the door locks prior to closing the door (no key fob needed to set the alarm). If that feature had been hardwired in *and* there was some logic confusion, it could cause this. See if your owners manual covers the location of the connector, and disconnect it.

    Another possibility is a problem with the shock sensor. In normal operation, if you rap the windshield or rock the body, it will sound a warning chirp. Approximately 30 seconds later the system switches to full armed mode. I'm wondering if it is confused, and sees the door closure as the first act of warning mode, then switches into full armed / alarm mode as you say about 20 seconds later.

    The module is located deep in the dash behind the radio - a real pain to get at if it needs replacing. Maybe you can regain control by cycling the system between normal and valet mode. In valet mode, the alarm should not operate when a door is opened. Worst case - ditch the alarm by leaving it in valet mode.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    A friend just got a Fiesta, and her trans crapped out 3 times. They finally did replace the whole thing and gave her a free extended warranty for the hassle.

    Hang in there, work with your dealer, make sure they get you a loaner and provide long-term coverage for the trans at least.
  • cosmicmcosmicm Member Posts: 2
    CV Joints are on drive axle covered by rubber type boots for turning shaft flexibility. Rubber dries out & deteriorates over years exposed to the elements road salt, hot air,rock tossed up (cuts it) etc. causing moly grease within for lubrication to dry out causing metal on metal within the joint. Myself in Palm Springs with ave summer temps 105-110 degrees... will substantially reduce the life span of boot and CV joint. At 71,000 I am now replacing my 2002 Subaru drive axle. Also, when boot then cv joint go undue pressure is put on inner & outer wheel bearings and seals which keep the grease from breaking down which then need replacement. I trust this is helpful. JACK
  • cosmicmcosmicm Member Posts: 2
    SaveReplyEditDelete#11727 of 11727 Re: 2002 Subaru Outback Axle Seals Replacement [senturi1] by cosmicm Feb 14, 2011 (3:01 pm)
    Replying to: senturi1 (May 20, 2009 1:14 pm)

    CV Joints are on drive axle covered by rubber type boots for turning shaft flexibility. Rubber dries out & deteriorates over years exposed to the elements road salt, hot air,rock tossed up (cuts it) etc. causing moly grease within for lubrication to dry out causing metal on metal within the joint. Myself in Palm Springs with ave summer temps 105-110 degrees... will substantially reduce the life span of boot and CV joint. At 71,000 I am now replacing my 2002 Subaru drive axle. Also, when boot then cv joint go undue pressure is put on inner & outer wheel bearings and seals which keep the grease from breaking down which then need replacement. I trust this is helpful. JACK
  • druperdruper Member Posts: 3
    Hi, does anyone know why a plug wire would ground out on my coil? I have a 1996 outback 2.5 automatic. Just replaced spark plugs and wires and coil. Ran great for two weeks, then started missing under a load. Saw a spark jumping from underneath the wire boot at the coil. Put the old coil back on and still did it. Put another set of new wires on and still does it on the same wire in the same place on the coil. Any ideas? Could the new spark plug on that wire be bad? Thanks.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    It sure could. The spark is going to take the path of least resistance, so it is possible that the charge being generated in that wire is not finding the proper grounding path (which is through the plug).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Could also be that it isn't fully pushed onto the coil pack?

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    I thought about that, too, but what are the chances that four different attempts yielded the same results? Of course, it does take a fair bit of effort to make sure they are fully seated.... It is certainly a possibility!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • druperdruper Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Mike, I was able to push the boot into the coil pack a hair more. The miss seems to have stopped for now. These NAPA wires have a boot on them that does not slide, which is fine, but they do not allow for much wiggle room. I have installed lots of wires, and these by far had to be pushed with the most effort. Thank you so much for the reply and the tip, take care, Andy
  • druperdruper Member Posts: 3
    Many thanks to both of you for the replies, so far, so good.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    mike - do you recommend adding dielectric grease on those connectors to help?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It's not a bad idea to do that Juice. We don't deal with the non-turbos too often but when we do we usually put some dielectric on em to make things smoother.

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    edited March 2011
    Cool, because I've been doing that. Miatas are known for eating ignition wires every 30k or so.
  • jgkc9aycjgkc9ayc Member Posts: 3
    Hello all.
    I have an '04 L.L. Bean edition.
    I've been having an inconsistent problem with it jerking/sputtering while cruising at ~40-55mph then easing onto the gas. No issues when flooring the pedal as to pass.
    I took it to the local dealer & they hooked it up to their computer. It detected an O2 sensor issue which I replaced. The problems persisted. I took it back, they hooked it up to the computer again & it showed no problems. They reset/reprogrammed something, but it didn't help either.
    They sold me some Subaru-branded fuel injection cleaner which I tried, but to no avail. Changing the plugs didn't help, either.
    Ideas? Suggestions?
    Thanks in advance.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Have you checked the resistance in the spark plug wires? If too high, it could be resulting in intermittently weak spark.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I was thinking along the same lines, spark or fuel.

    Check the plugs first, then the wires, then the ignition coil and fuel filter.
  • jgkc9aycjgkc9ayc Member Posts: 3
    I hate to think that the new plugs are bad, but it's very possible.
    The problem isn't consistent. It may do it for a couple of weeks pretty regular then go months before it does it again.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Well, don't start throwing parts at it, because that will just likely frustrate you with intermittent problems like this. Test those spark plug wires first; it is very easy to do.

    Are you seeing any other evidence of performance issues, such as reduced fuel economy?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • frenchguy007frenchguy007 Member Posts: 28
    Well i just received a second recall notice on my Legacy. The first was for a wiper motor that can possibly overheat and cause a fire. Seems like it is related to winter driving and wipers that block and force the motor.

    The second recall is for 2011 model but i received a copy for my 2010(??). It is to do with a moonroof that may not be adhered properly. It seems that some moonroof's may disconnect from the car because of a poor bond between the frame of the moonroof and the glass itself.

    Small things but a pain in the but, my Subaru dealer wants the car for the entire day to address these small items.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Ask for a loaner, at least.
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