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Comments
Bob
bit
The keyless is easy to add. I believe it's something you can program yourself. Ask your dealer if he'll sell you the accessory for invoice price, even if it's not already on there, or go to www.subaruparts.com and order it there.
I have tinted windows, but the A/C in my Forester will freeze you! That plus I'm getting 25.1mpg over the last year in my Forester.
22/27 mpg is actually very good for a 2.5l engine. It's better than competitors with the same size engine, even those that are just 2WD. Plus it runs on regular 87 octane, which around me costs 24 cents per gallon less than premium.
More pros: Camry and Accord don't offer AWD, Camry V6 requires premium fuel, neither offer a wagon bodystyle, and Subaru's warranty beats both (it's longer than Honda's and only Subaru includes roadside assistance).
Good luck with your car shopping.
-juice
I doubt well be seeing major changes for a few years. The 2000 MY was a major redesign over the original series which went from 95-99
(there were some stylistic differences in 97-99 but the powertrain and frame remained the same)
In 2000 they switched engines (DOHC to SOHC)
They changed the rear suspension.
They Dug up some more space in the interior and Added body cladding and more accessories as standard. The Rear LSD was an option in 00, standard in 01.
They also might have made some transmission changes but I'm not sure.
They reinforced the passenger compartment for more safety.
I suspect the next big thing will be the filling out of the Impreza WRX (tack on a few more performance options as standard) and the implimentation of the ST-X concept vehical which has affectionatly unoffically been dubbed "The Outbrat" (see sub web site for details).
I just had a birthday last weekend, and I've been told for years that I have a "great face for radio"...
Too late... I'm confused
Cheers!
Paul
That is unless they are Paisan's freinds.
bit
also the 6 ad changer is it better to get after market or pay the price at dealer.. they wanted around 300.
Which after market products is compatible? Thanks again
Nope - no "sworn to secrecy" going on. If you have a cold start problem, the ECU can be checked and - if it is the cause, it will be re-programmed. Service Bulletins are issued after extensive research. They monitor what they are hearing and seeing if the "fix" resolves the problem. If they see that it works, a TSB will be issued. Right now, they are doing the reprogramming and it appears to be working so, I'm sure something more public is forthcoming.
Ask for me when you call. Dan is our liaison with our tech. group and he helps the Reps. with tech. questions. But, the first step is to go to the dealer. If you get a hassle, call us and we can consult with the dealer. It should be an easy process.
Extended Service Agreements - I always encourage negotiations on the price, but I (I know my opinion is a bit skewed) think that our's (Added Security) is worth it. The benefit over the other programs is that it allows us more flexibilty if something is not covered. With the other programs, they do not have committment to the customers satisfaction. We have a vested interest in our customers and we try to make sure they are taken care of. If the program you purchase is an aftermarket, we cannot get involved in any way.
So, if you like the idea of an extended service agreement, I'd suggest Subaru's plan. Just negotiate the price if you are not comfortable with it. Remember, you get what you pay for and with Added Security, the coverage is better than most others.
Patti
http://www.edmunds.com/chat/subaruchat.html
Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
If you have whatever option gives you heated seats you cannot have this option as this space is occupied by the seat heat controlers.
The car already comes with two 12v outlets, one up front beneath the radio and one in the trunk inside the tire jack enclosure.
GAM
Has anyone else had a problem like this?
What does anyone recommend as far as a fix? Does it make sense to repaint?
If it makes a difference the car is black.
thanks for any advice.
bit
Thanks again
In this case, they wanted a 3% profit magin on new cars, and sold their demos for invoice. The car in question was the service manager's car, with 4000 miles on it,and much of the interior absolutely unused. So at $300 below invoice without even a bit of effort on our part, we took it. Maybe we could have done a bit better if we had haggled for an hour, but the few extra $ didn't seem worth it, and Subarru had good financing offers also. The easiest car deal I ever made, and a pleaseant experience all around.
Re: Chips....When we inspected the car closely on delivery, it did have several chips in the hood as described above. Nothing that looked like a defect in the paint itself (blistering, etc). I had a late 80's Montero that chipped like crazy and went through 3 windshields until I put a deflector on the hood. Only problem there was that it altered the airflow so much that the wipers were sucked up off the windshield when operating at highway speeds. Any trouble with the aerodynamics of the Subaru deflector? How hard is it to install yourself?
Greg
The default setup is such that, immediately on closing the doors (i.e. WITHOUT locking them) the system starts to arm and is fully armed in 30 seconds. This happens whether you are in or out of the car. Also, as soon as you unlock the doors with the remote, the system immediately begins to re-arm. Here are a few examples:
If you need to make repeated trips to get items or kids out, you either have to leave a door open, leave the engine running, or make it back & forth to the house in less than 30 seconds!
If you get in the car, close the door, and don't start it up within 30 seconds, the ignition kill switch prevents you from starting it.
If you stop the car, turn off the ignition, and a passenger gets out and closes their door, the system arms in the same 30 seconds, and a second opening of door or hatch will set off the alarm!
Of course, the person I spoke to at LoJack told me that the solution was simple: just put the system in valet mode every time I need to open and close my doors more than once! This involves turning on the ignition and holding down a tiny button under the dash. Of course, it defeats the alarm system entirely. Interestingly, that is how the car was delivered to us after installation of the system!
After 48 hours I was ready to have the whole darn thing pulled out of the car. The management at the dealership told us that this was a new version of the system that they were unfamiliar with. Checking the LoJack web site showed that the system should be able to be set to arm either passively or actively (i.e. only when locking/unlocking with the remote). After several calls to LoJack, the dealer finally got a senior tecnician who was familiar with the procedure, reprogrammed the alarm, and solved the problem. The dealer has now instructed them to only install the LoJack System 5 in active arming mode.
So, for those of you considering this particular system, insist that it be set to active mode only, unless you prefer the "features" I described above. This option is apparently not general knowledge among the LoJack installers.
Greg
I personally really likes the auto re-arm feature (ie. when you unlock but don't open any door). It guards against accidental unlocking with the remote.
Also there are simple little ways you can override some of those passive features without going into valet mode. For example,
If you have to run back and forth from car to house, I think you can defeat the auto-arm by sticking the key in the ignition and remove it after opening the door. Or, for the auto re-arm, just quickly open and close one door after unlocking will defeat the re-arm. Then you can take your sweet time loading things (and kids) from the house. For course, figuring out all the nuances of the system will take some time and experimentation.
#2 I'm looking at a '98 Legacy GT Limited that has 45,000 miles on it. Dealer has it marked down to $15,000. It sounds like a real good deal, but I wanted a car with the limited slip differential (for added safety). Should I sacrifice the limited slip and go for it?? My 17-year-old daughter will be driving the car to school in September, 25 miles one way, mostly interstate driving, and we live 22 miles west of Cincinnati, so winters can get nasty. Will the limited slip make a lot of difference driving on snowy, hilly roads??
I apologize if this message should have gone into another category. I've only posted messages twice, and the first time I thought my browser was acting up, because it takes forever (it seems) to get into one of the boards. Now I know that's normal, but I waited longer than usual today and still couldn't get into the "maintenance and repair" board, and I'm real anxious to see if someone's got any suggestions. (My family calls me a "fanatic" about safety, but I told them nothing lives up to its name like a Subaru, so I hope my husband's experience isn't going to be typical of what to expect in the future, or he'll never let me live it down!)
Greg
One trick would have been to feather the brakes and create some artificial resistance on that tire, so power was redistributed. This is what traction control systems do, essentially. The Outback VDC uses this type of system.
But yes, a limited-slip differential is a mechanical way to redistribute power, so it would have helped. You just sold yourself on a LSD, so I would look for a newer GT or Outback that has it.
Signal: my dad paid about $25k for an Outback Limited automatic, freight included. That was at www.fitzmall.com. You may want to use their price as a baseline, and have the dealer match it. That salesman sounds really cheesy, so you may try another dealership.
-juice
Feilo.
I think we'll get bigger changes in 2003.
-juice
but not impressed with the width of the car.
it is hardly wider than the corolla I am
driving these days!
Anybody got information on future redesign that
would solve this problem?
There will be a new Forester for 2003, but I doubt it would be wider than the Outback. A bigger sport utility wagon is expected in 2005 as well.
How much width do you need, though? My cousin has a '99 Outback, and puts 3 kids in the back in safety seats. The 2000 is about an inch wider, too. Check it out:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1400062&a=11264448&p=46643565&f=0
-juice
Mike
You should check out the New Car section of Edmunds for car pricing; they are excellent. you can price your car out with the exact options you want, or with the options included on the advertised vehicle, and see how good the price is.
http://www.edmunds.com/new/
Cheers,
-wdb
Any how, figure you lose about 10% of the value just by driving it off the lot, then 10% each year after that. That's a rough rule of thumb.
Since it's almost new, I'd try to get 90% of its original value, or about $20,700. You may want to try Car Max, which not only sells but also buys cars.
-juice
I also considered the Thule Excursion box but Thule does NOT approve the use of the Excursion box with the OB factory crossbars. You can do it..but Thule does not recommend or approve it. I called and spoke directly with Thule customer service to verify this. Thule told me to get their rail mounts, crossbars and locks which adds about another $190. On the other hand, Yakima has fully approved their SpaceCadet box with our OB factory crossbars. The Yakima box also holds a little more (15 cubic feet vs 13). I purchased the Yakima Spacecadet with 2 sks core locks for $270. I also felt the Yakima was better made (ie..insulation on the lid, bigger hinge springs, clamp hardware, etc.).
I was suprised to find that the Yakima SpaceCadet added neglible wind noise..even at 75mph. At lower speed I even opened the window to listen and couldn't detect additional wind noise.
My findings on some other cargo boxes: I liked the Packasport boxes..especially since they are waterproof and use marine carpeting - but at $810+ they were too costly for my limited use which is for vacations and taking the kids to college. The Subaru Accesory boxes appear to be made by Swagman out of BC. They seemed nice enough but are quite a bit more expensive then either the Yakima or Thule boxes.
Also, my cousin has one of those huge X-Cargo ones, and he said his mileage was great for the same trip.
So if you want one, don't let a tiny mileage penalty stop you. Even my small one offers 14 cubic feet, which is like having another trunk.
-juice
There is wind noise from the Thule but is not horrible. The fuel economy hit was about 3-4mpg for us. Basically 19-20mpg from the usual 23-24mpg at 75mph.
Paul in MN.
...at 6-7pm Pacific/9-10 pm Eastern. Hope to see you there!
http://www.edmunds.com/chat/subaruchat.html
Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
Jeannette
;-)
Did you buy the box locally or order it "remotely?" I live in the Seattle area and our sales tax is now up to 8.8%, so I wouldn't mind a little savings on that count.
I also plan to use my box intermittently (vacations, moving to/from college, etc.) - how tough was it to un/install?
In any event, thanks for a nice, timely post.
Hey, juice, I was just back your way this week (Bethesda) - OB's look pretty rare back there - compared to Seattle (they're EVERYWHERE out here). Too low-brow for the DC-area socialites?
Cheers from the PNW!
Ken M.