Subaru Legacy/Outback

ddty · June 2001

I got my L.L.Bean last sunday with sell price $25,990 in Seattle area. It's about $1100 less than edmunds invoice price for L.L.Bean. Is this a current price for L.L.Bean? I may post details if anyone interested in it.

nygreg · June 2001

dab - sorry to hear about your cd. I have the single cd installed by my dealer. No problems. In fact, it has never even skipped - very impressed since my Sienna tends to skip now and again (of course the kids are a factor).

Rob - I believe the cooler is made for Subaru. I have seen before in this forum that people have purchased non-Subie coolers for the better price. My salesman even told me to go elsewhere to purchase the cooler due to price. As for it drawing on the battery, I can't remember what the manual said, but it should be in there. (maybe I'll check tonight).

ddty - $25,990 for a Bean?? Do you know someone? That is a great price. Did it come with tires?? ;-) I guess they are not selling as well as expected, but, still great cars. Congratulations and welcome to the club.

-Greg

twrx · June 2001

Electric coolers come in a whole range of sizes and prices. I own more than one and the best I have used is one made by Koolatron. You need to buy some blue ice because none of them cool down quickly and also when you have the car off it will help hold the cold temp. On an extended trip I use it as a fridge in hotel rooms. So the 110 volt adaptor is a great accessory for one of these things.

jmochel1 · June 2001

I think I've now read every message in this group about the Outback. I've rented the H-4 a couple of times and really enjoyed it. Haven't had a chance to test drive the LLB yet.

I continue to be amazed by all of the positive comments about these cars. As has been noted before, the other groups seem to complain more about their cars than praise them.

I really undecided about which model to get. I think I've ruled out the VDC due to cost. If I can get a Bean for $26K that may be the way to go.

However, I don't really like the sunroofs on the LTD and Bean. The front doesn't really do anything for me since it just pops up. However, I really want leather interior. Is it possible to get leather in the base OB? Other than leather and sunroof, are there any other differences between the base OB and the LTD?

How much better is the performance and mpg with the 5 speed? I'm tempted to go that route except for the Chicago rush hour.

I've also heard the VDC is quieter due to added insulation. Would undercoating do anything to quiet the other models more?

Thanks for all of the advice.

Jim

PS - how do I get one of those nifty flags after my name?

scirocco22 · June 2001

Jim-- I've been doing a painstaking comparison of the Outback vs the Forester and actually have a deposit down on a Forester S-premium at $175 over invoice but I can't seem to get anyone to comment on it over on the Forester board. I've been having second thoughts about going with the Forester because of it's size and IMO, "frumpy" looks. I think the OB looks a lot nicer and is obviously larger and has a bigger cargo capacity. If I were to go with the OB, I'd probably get the LTD. The same dealer told me they'd give me the same price over invoice as the Forester. I think I'd actually be getting a better deal with the Forester because from what I'm hearing, quite a few people seem to be getting OB's for under invoice where Foresters are actually commanding a higher price over invoice because of their relative scarcity compared with the OB's. I'm really at a quandry on which way to go and I sure wish this was an easier decision, lol.

As to your question about what the LTD adds to the base OB, this is what I gathered that is added to the Limited:

*All weather package with heated seats, defrosting outside mirrors, windshield wiper de-icer
*Side impact airbags, front seats
*Dual sunroofs (front pops up, rear retracts)
*AM/FM/Weatherband/Casstte/CD, 8 speakers with bass, midrange and treble adjustments.
*In-glass antenna
*Leather trimmed seating surfaces
*Leather Steering wheel
*Leather shift knob
*UV tinted glass
*Variable delay front interval wipers
*Front door courtesy/puddle lights
*Gold accented alloy wheels
*Body color door handles and mirrors

Does anybody have any comments on the assembly quality of an OB which is made here in the States vs the Forester which is still made in Japan? I heard the Indiana plant had quality problems when it first opened but I'm assuming that those problems have been solved by now. Generally speaking, some people believe that vehicles assembled in Japan have fewer problems than those assembled here in this country (USA). I've heard comments that Japanese workers are more detail oriented than American workers (no flames please, it's just what I've heard others say, lol). In fact, a co-worker told me he'd only buy a Japanese car that was actually made in Japan. Any comments?

and Jim, you've GOT a flag after your name, lol! --Old Glory! But I've run into many on these boards here at Edmunds that change their flags to reflect their heritage. You can do that by editing your profile and changing the country designation to whatever you choose. You must then log-out of Edmunds. If you have auto-log-in, then you'll have to manually log out and then re-log back in.

subearu · July 2001

The Subaru topics are generally kind of quiet on the weekends - since everyone is out in their Sube's!

Jim - you've driven an Outback, try a test drive in a Forester. The main thing to consider - the Forester is a tad more snug in the rear seat area than the Outback. So, if you have kids or regularly transport more than 2 people around, the Outback (any of the flavors) may provide a more comfortable ride. The Outback also has a softer ride.

You can get aftermarket leather installed in any vehicle, including the base Outback. Some dealers have packages available, but you could go and find an installer yourself. I personally like the cloth seats better, so ours is the base Outback.

Quality: both vehicles are well built. And a good powertrain warranty is provided - so those parts you talked about getting at an auto store are covered!

Come over to the Subaru Crew topics - you'll get some additional responses (and opinions)

-Brian

sbennett1 · July 2001

i have a 2001 outback and ever since the warm weather set in, i have had a strong must/fungus odor in my ventilation system. the service people didn't take my complaint seriously and, after much prompting from me, cleaned the system with a fungicide. less than a month later, the smell was back. anyone else out there have this problem? i suspect it has something to do with the a/c not draining properly. any input?

originalbitman · July 2001

Jim - I have a 01 GT wagon and love the moonroofs. Even though the front moonroof only tips up it does do a great job of aiding the airflow. On long drive I usually pop the front and crack the rear one a few inches. The front one does a great job of deflecting the air for the rear and you get very little buffeting.

As for performance I think the 5 speed does a much better job of letting you use the torque curve of the H4. I love mine.

bit

scirocco22 · July 2001

Sue-- I had that problem years ago in one of my cars. An air conditioning specialist told me that it is from excess moisture in the evaporator. He gave me these tips and it seemed to clear the problem up after awhile: Turn off the a/c a few minutes before you reach your destination and just let the fan blow (in fact, I believe GM actually makes an accessory that runs the blower for a few minutes after the car has stopped to dry out the evaporator.) He also told me to run the a/c frequently during the winter. Most system controls will allow you to do this even with the heat on full-blast. He advised me to set the A/C for outside air and spray Lysol or a similar product into the air intakes if the smell persisted but I never had to do that as leaving the blowers on almost constantly seemed to clear up the problem (I now leave my fan/blower on its lowest setting, unless I need a higher fan speed, all year long every time the car is driven; and btw, I've never had to replace a blower motor in any car even leaving it on constantly). Also, you should be seeing a "puddle" of water underneath your car after using your a/c. Are you seeing this?

jmochel1 · July 2001

I stopped at the Soob dealer today to look around the lot (they're closed on Sunday). I was comparing the OB, the LTD, and the Bean. I really like the look of the two-tone leather on the Bean (although I suppose I could get two-tone aftermarket leather installed). It looks like for about $2000 more than a LTD you get the H-6, two-tone leather, a fancy steering wheel and automatic climate control. I also saw that the same dealer had an ad in the paper for $27,000 on the Bean.

I also glanced at the Forester. They had a silver premium package with leather and a large sunroof. The roof looks a little more practical on the Forster since it slides from the driver all the way back to the passenger. Hmmmm...decisions, decisions!

Juice - I think you have a Forester and your Dad has a LTD (if I remember correctly). What can you offer in the way of comparisons and contrasts between the two vehicles?

Jim

littlecreek2 · July 2001

I test drove the Forester, too- before I bought the OB, I just didn't like the drive. It sits nice from the driver seat, nice view to road and not too high. But........ it just didn't "ride" smooth, I didn't like the handling either, too loose.

The OB has a smoother ride, feels heavier (not just weight wise), safer in some way. I don't feel like I'm hogging the road or a parking spot with some Monster SUV I need a ladder to get out of either.

Now some of this might be that my previous car (1988 Nissan Sentra) was a smaller car that had no power steering or cushion (lol). However, I had that car 13 years- and I believe that I am right again in choosing a quality, long lasting vehicle.

scirocco22 · July 2001

Sharon-- Thanx for your input. Yup, I drove both and sort of agree with you. The Forester has what I would call more "sportier" handling. I don't know if I'd quite describe it as "loose" but definitely a choppier ride because of its sportier characteristics. The handling of the Forester IMO, seemed to have more of a "fun" quotient than the OB which seemed to handle more like a big cushy sedan. Man, this is really getting to me. One minute I'm thinking I'm ok with the Forester decision and then the next minute, I tend to think the OB is the better choice. *argh!*

Jim-- yeah, dang... now what?? lol How did that silver Forester look to you? That's the one that I have a deposit down on. I like the contrasting colors of the base S model but really don't care for the new for '02 "graystone" bottom. I liked the '01's platinum color much better. I don't really care for the monotone color schemes either. What do you think? I really do like the contrasting colors on the OB. *argh!* ...again

jmochel1 · July 2001

This is such a matter of individual taste. I actually like the monochrome look. What I didn't like was the gold wheels on the Forester. I really liked the gray leather interior. I wish they offered that on the OB. My current car has tan leather and I'd like something different.

I guess in addition to driving the Bean, I'll also go and drive the Forester. It's growing on me since it looks more like the traditional SUV yet still gets great mileage. But then again, maybe that's why I like the Outback - it isn't traditional!

Your comments about sporty feel are interesting and may steer me towards the OB. I just want to be comfortable during my 22 mile commute each way. It's all expressway, but that's often a misnomer during rush hour.

At least I have all summer and fall to think about it.

Jim

scirocco22 · July 2001

Jim-- lol, just be glad you don't have a 22 mile commute here in the Seattle area as we have one of the most congested areas in the nation

But you don't have to make a decision until winter?? Yeah, I'd agree, from what you say, the OB will probably be a better choice for you but by all means, drive a Forester and let us know your impression. Yeah, the gold trimmed wheels didn't appeal to me either. The gold trimmed wheels on the LTD are of a more attractive design and the gold trim is more subtle and goes nicely with the titanium colored cladding. Does the Bean have the same gold trimmed wheels? I'd definitely be interested in one of the H-6 models if they offered a 5-speed manual. Thanx for your comments --'rocco

ryoon · July 2001

Thanks for the info...interesting that the Passat had this feature. I hope to see the outback with this sometime soon.

oclvframe · July 2001

ddty- Did your Bean come with any upgrades such as 6-cd changer, spoiler, etc for $26k? That sounds like a pretty darned good deal.

Comments on the Bean: I chose the Bean over the H-4 simply because of the smoothness and the creature comforts. I have a 40 mi commute each way and I wanted it to be as smooth and comfortable as possible without going out and buying a supper expensive vehicle. I tried numerous other types of vehicles in this price range and nothing came close to how nice the Subie drove...well, except for the MDX, but that is not in the same price range.

Things I force myself to live with/without:
The gold wheels...not my favorite, but, I can live with them.
The front pop up sunroof...would prefer it slid back, but, I can live with it (the kids sure do love driving around with the back one open!)
No 6speed manual or 5speed auto.
No homelink...why?

Subarus truely are fine vehicles. Any model one buys will certainly yeild a long happy ride for a long time.

-r

ateixeira · July 2001

Under $26k for a Bean? Jump on it.

Sue: I agree with the idea of running the vents after turning off the A/C for just a minute. I turn the A/C off a block before home, and it's always worked.

Forester or Outback? I'll list each one's pros from my point of view:

Forester: much lighter so it feels more agile, shorter wheelbase helps manueverability, cargo area holds tall boxes, made-in-Japan gives it a slight edge in reliability surveys, costs less, world's largest moonroof.

Outback: very substantial "feel", smoother highway ride, more passenger room, better for long cargo, moonroof for the rear passengers too.

If you're on the fence, let your needs pick the car. Got 2-3 kids and dogs and take lots of long trips? The Outback will better accomodate your needs.

0-1 kids and a dog with mostly short trips? Go with a Forester. You can always trade up if you need more space later.

I paid $19,200 way back in 1998 and it's still worth $15k or so. Now that's resale! It still has almost 80% of its original value.

-juice

johnmei · July 2001

We are planning to purchase a 2002 Outback Wagon, H-4 engine. We live in Maine and have a steep hill with a horseshoe curve plus a 90 degree turn on the slope. Road is dirt/crush stone. It gets icy and pretty slick in the winter.

A local dealer suggested I purchase the automatic model. Said Since the 2000 year model that the manual and auto are very different. Stated that a computer controls the 4 wheels on the auto and basically distributes power to each of the 4 in the amount of power each wheel needs. Said the manual transmission works well but basically distributes power to essentially 3 of the 4 wheels if the 4th begins to slip. Thus the automatic gives more control and also has a higher resale value and a greater market.

I need to know if the above is accurate inasmuch as I thought a manual transmission usually provide more control in snow, etc.
Would appreciate some input plus pros and cons. Thanks.

P.. BTW anyone have any photos of the 2002 Outback Wagon yet?

20llbean · July 2001

Wow. Even it the Bean has no additional options it still is about 500 dollars less then invoice. Sounds like a good deal plus you get oil changes for the first 36K miles and free inspections for life of ownership. My bean with 6disk changer, wheel locks, cargo net, and a couple of other options came in at 27K. Go for it. We had our bean for 1 month and it's be a pleasure.

gkinzel · July 2001

I just purchased a leftover 2000 Legacy GT wagon. I love the styling, ride and standard features, but I have discovered after 2 days of ownership that there is a leak that allows rainwater to enter into the map light lens. It appears that water is entering through the moon roof. Has anyone else experience this problem. I'll be bringing the car back to the dealer to have it corrected. Any other general comments about the good and bad features of the car are welcomed.

rsholland · July 2001

John-

All Subaru manuals use a viscous center coupling to distribute power front to rear, On manuals the power split is normally 50/50, front to rear. That can change depending on road conditions, or whether you are braking or accelerating.

All Subaru automatics use a electronic center coupling to distribute power front to rear. On most models the normal power split is 90/10 front to rear. I believe the WRX's normal power split is 50/50(?), and the Outback VDC is 45/55.

Only the automatic VDC model has the ability to control power to each wheel. However, some Subarus also have a viscous rear LSD, which can distribute power to either the left rear or the right rear.

Bob

originalbitman · July 2001

I have had both a 2000 and now a 2001 GT wagon and never had a leak. Seems odd actually as they fit so snug when closed. Perhaps just a problem with the rubber seal. It may be a leak around the roof rail too and just finding its way to the map light. You say it is a left over so I assume it is new. Definitely a warranty item though. Since the OBs can have the moonroofs too it seems this is a rare problem as I have not seen another post about it before.

bit

ateixeira · July 2001

John: that dealer should re-read his notes from dealer training.

All Outbacks (except the VDC) now have a rear limited slip differential, but an open front differential. So if a front wheels slips, all the power to that axle will leak out the slipping wheel, no matter which tranny you have.

Only the VDC "manages" both front and rear axles (with traction control), and would therefore have an advantage over other Outbacks in the really slippery stuff.

With an auto you don't have to slip the clutch off road, so that would be an advantage. It's also better for towing, and easier for those bumper to bumper commutes.

A manual costs less to begin with, so resale is a wash. It tends to be more fuel efficient, at least in the real-world cases I've heard. I find them far more fun, offering better control, plus you get 5 ratios instead of just 4, and it's quicker to boot.

-juice

vincer2 · July 2001

John,
I haven't seen any pictures but a Subaru dealer told me there will be no changes of significance either mechanical or cosmetic. I did read somewhere that Winestone will be dropped and replaced by a different shade of red.
Vince

scirocco22 · July 2001

Brian-- forgot to thank you for your comments back on post #1807 ...they were appreciated

01legacygt · July 2001

Two issues with my GT, hopefully someone has an answer or some input.
1. My gas mileage is lousy. I have a/t and I have been driving fairly slowly with a mix of freeway and city. I usually have the a/c on, but I am only getting 18-19mpg.

2. Steering wheel jerks. If I am going around a corner and I hit a bump, the steering wheel will try to jerk back toward center. If I don't have a good grip, it would likely get away from me.

any ideas?

originalbitman · July 2001

I have a 01 GT but not the steering wheel jerk problem. Just drove 10 miles on a twisting 2 lane road with very old pavement and lots of potholes and uneven surface but it handled just fine. Is it the same if you are turning left to right?

I average 24-25 in mixed driving with air on and off but I have a stick. How many miles on your GT?

bit

mortpeaberry · July 2001

I love my '01 St wagon with 15k miles on it! [doesn't everyone say that?...]
But in the mornings, when the car is cold, I get clutch chatter. I don't burn the clutch [too much] I drive it kinda hard, but only after the clutch is all the way engaged. Dealer asked right away if my chatter was in the mornings [like they have heard of it before] but could not recreate it. Has anyone else had this problem? BMW Subaru manta crux has always been great!

thanks - steve-v

originalbitman · July 2001

I had it on my 00 after about 10k miles or so. Only at first use in the AM and very slight but noticeable. I've seen similar posts on the legacygt@u.washington.edu board too. So far at 4.5k miles my 01 is chatter free.

bit

vincer2 · July 2001

bit,
How do I access the board you referred to?
Thanks,
Vince

originalbitman · July 2001

It is an email list and you need to subscribe by sending imail to listproc@u.washington.edu with the following line in the message body:
SUBSCRIBE LEGACYGT Your Name

The list as indicated by its name is made up of GT owners. Not a lot of traffic but what there is comes from knowledgeable enthusiasts. There is an archive but you have to be a member to access it.

bit

01legacygt · July 2001

bit,
thanks for the response. It seems to do it more when turning right, but I've experienced it in both directions.

the car has 1700 miles, so it's still pretty new. I got the oil changed at 1000.

thanks,
Darin

francophile · July 2001

Steering: get the alignment checked, front AND rear.

Mileage: give the car another few thousand miles to loosen up. Subies are famous for being "tight" when new. My mileage improved 2MPG after 7K miles or so, and the shifting is much less notchy too.

Cheers,
-wdb

kmclean · July 2001

Greg -

I picked up a tidbit from the Maxima board (I own a 2000 OB Ltd wagon and a '97 Maxima SE) - a fellow with a Max had a leaking problem like yours. The Max moonroof both pops up at the back, or slides back into the roof, as I believe yours does. Turns out that despite the apparent "tight seal" of moon roofs, they are actually expected to let some water get in - and there is a drain system (at the four corners on the Max) in the housing frame that lets the water drain out. This fellow's problem was that somehow one or two of the drains had become blocked with some kind of "crud" (parks under trees that drop seeds, etc.?) that had accumulated over time. As your car is new, there's likely another explanation, but it's worth checking out (perhaps the drains were blocked with paint?).

Good luck, let me know what the answer is.

And to all - a happy (and safe) fourth from the Pacific Northwest!

Cheers!

Ken M.

originalbitman · July 2001

Interesting about those drains. Never heard of it before but it makes sense. Have to check it out. Thanks for posting that info.

bit

ateixeira · July 2001

1700 miles is still very green. Let her loosen up and you'll probably improve to about 20mpg. My Forester improved by a good 2mpg once it had 15k miles.

I've seen better on the 2.5l, but that's acceptable for a mid-size AWD automatic wagon. At least it's regular fuel.

-juice

ddty · July 2001

My $26k LAB came only with all standards.
It does include 4 tires, Greg. -:( 4 Firestones. -:)
So far, it works well, except for its 'native' brake noise when driving backward. The dealership service man told me the correction will soon be available from Subaru. It doesn't hurt anything except for your ear, maybe.
I bought the car from Kirkland Nissan&Subaru, Washington. The sales person is John Simon.

sbennett1 · July 2001

thanks for your response. I was advised by a subaru tech to turn off the a/c and run the vent for a few minutes before turning the car off. frankly, i don't think that's what one should have to do with a brand new car and i can't tell you how badly the vent stinks after the a/c is turned off!!! i have to then open the windows and hold my breath. your comment about the puddling was right on target for me because i have been saying for weeks that i don't see the normal puddles under the car after the a/c is used and i suspected a faulty evaporator. of course, the dealer's service people never looked into this and acted like i was imagining the odors, so they just sprayed a "fungicide" into the system. i will be going back for round two shortly, but i will demand that they now look at the evaporator and the conpressor to ensure that they are not defective. thanks again.

johnmei · July 2001

OK you folks who have been lamenting that there isn't a pop-up camper made for the Outback Wagon. Well, NOW there is one. See www.chaletrv.com hit floorplans and look at the last one listed the "ltw". Looks pretty neat. When you get to the "ltw" floorplan, click on it and you will see a photo of an Outback Wagon with it.
John

"LTW"

cptplt · July 2001

my 98 GT has started to have this incredibly loud high pitched squeak, comes on after you brak and then you release it. I thought it was the pads going and took it in , of course it was just fine when it was there and the pads were great too. Seems to occur more when its very hot or you've had your foot on the brake a long time like in traffic etc. Is the caliper not releasing? Anyone come across this, the guy I brought it to is a very good mechanic, he thought it was just the semi metallic pads acting up.

ateixeira · July 2001

Sue: I'd say a few seconds, rather than a few minutes. It's been a HOT summer around here and I'd melt if I had to turn off the A/C for that long! :-)

It's noisy when you release it? Sound like something is sticking.

That LTW camper looks like fun. I prefer my trusty tent and an air mattress, though.

-juice

mtnshopper · July 2001

I just took a trip with a Coleman thermoelectric cooler/warmer in the back of my LL Bean. It did a good job. I put some frozen chicken in it when I left and 10 hours later it was still frozen. And soda pop stayed cold. I wanted to buy the Igloo cooler, but went with the Coleman because Wal-Mart had the best price and included the 110 V adapter as a bonus. I saw the same Coleman cooler for the same price or higher at some camping supply stores, but the 110 V adapter was not included. It sells separately for 40 bucks, so it was a good deal at Wal-Mart. With the adapter, you can plug the cooler in at home and let it cool down for several hours before putting it in your car. That is what Coleman recommends. The cooler instructions said not to leave the cooler plugged in when your car is parked for very long, or it will drain the battery. But the motor on my cooler did not run when I plugged it into the power outlet, until I turned the car on. The motor noise did not bother me while driving, but one of my co-workers bought the same cooler and returned it because she said it was too noisy.
Becky

ateixeira · July 2001

Cool, Becky. (pardon the pun...)

The Subaru one is pricey. Even a wholesaler recommended I shop elsewhere.

-juice

erics6 · July 2001

The Chalet LTW (www.chaletrv.com) is a nice a-frame camping trailer for two people. One of the owners of Chalet told me that they had developed the LTW with the Subaru Outback in mind. Dry weight is about 1000 lbs. w/o options. Chalet dealers are mostly in the western half of the U.S. Another option for those of you on the east coast is Aliner's Sportliner model (www.aliner.com).

The biggest problem I saw with the LTW is lack of storage space when you add many options. It's also kind of expensive compared to Chalet's bigger (& heavier) Alpine model which comes with more standard items.

jay_24 · July 2001

My wife and I have always used a tent, but with two little girls are thinking of upgrading a bit to a camper. Anybody out there using a Starcraft or Jayco tentcamper? They both appear to have small ones that will fit the Outbacks 2000 towing limit.

tew2 · July 2001

Has anyone experienced a problem with their hatch back closing but not locking? I have a '01 Legacy wagon. The hatch back has only locked on a hit and miss basis. I could slam it or lightly close it with varying results. Sometimes it would lock and sometimes it wouldn't since I purchased the car new last September. Now, the door won't lock at all. I can't get an appointment at my local Subaru dealer until a week from Friday and am quite frustrated since I can't lock my car. I am not sure whether there is a problem with the locking mechanism or the indicator that shows that the hatch is open or closed. I'd appreciate feedback if anyone else has had this problem and how it was resolved.

pdubois · July 2001

Tracy:

I had the very same problem with my OB when I got it. It would not lock and the light was on on the dash. I took it to the dealer without an appointment and they adjusted the latch right away (takes only a few minutes) and since then, no problem any more. There is an adjustment screw on one side of the latch. You need to remove the plastic at the bottom of the gate opening to access it. This plastic panel is held in place by clips. Be very careful when removing it, the small plastic tabs which go into the clips break easily...
Pat.

ateixeira · July 2001

Jay: wow, my wife asked me to upgrade to a Holiday Inn! :-) Especially with our daughter, she's not the type that likes to rough it.

Tracy: my rear hatch takes a good slam to close. Drop it from about a foot or two away and it does not close completely. Is that the same problem you have?

First, push the rubber liner forward, if you have one, and out of the way. That's usually it. Then ask your dealer to adjust the latch so it's easier to apply.

I've never been back to a dealership so I have not had it adjusted. Guess it never bothered me much.

-juice

huppert · July 2001

Just bought 98 Outback wagon off lease with 48k w/CD, winter package and automatic for $15k. Went with leasee, who we knew, to dealer and wrote dealer the check. Love it (1st Subaru) and have found only one minor problem. Both remote doorlock controls (on keychain) only open the driver's door. Minor inconvenience but I am wondering if there is a simple fix. Thanks!

smokeybaer · July 2001

Pressing the open button on the fob once only opens the drivers door. You must press it a second time to open all the other locks. Hope this works.

Warren

Subaru Legacy/Outback

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