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Subaru Legacy/Outback

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  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    The sprint was so cheaply made that here in Canada the early ones did not even get the inside of the hood painted it was left in Primer.

    Could not believe the first time I saw it I thought the hood had been replaced, but I went to a dealer and found they were all like that, Incidently we only had one Suzuki dealer in Ottawa still do if I am not mistaken.

    Leather is only available here on the Limited sedan GT, matter of fact it is standard, cloth is the only option on the GT wagon and sedan.

    Cheers Pat.
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    There's a Chevy Sprint Turbo model, albeit with maybe 75hp, instead of the ~50 that the 1 liter 3cyl had. I see a white one still cruising around town and wonder how it still can. Must be those performance stickers on it! ;)

    The Chevy Sprint was a predecesor to the Geo Metro, both made by Suziki. I believe the Chevy/Geo's could only be had with the 3cyl 1 liter engine. Suziki's could be had with the 4 cyl model.

    -Brian (the first Bear on these boards?)
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    The OE design goes up and over the exhaust, and thus does require some squares of the underside plastic be cut away. Some of the aftermarket systems stay entirely below bumper height and so get away without as much plastic trimming. But the 'hang low' design reduces rear ground clearance, and is much more visible (depending on your view, unsightly??).

    Any system that uses the existing bolt holes will probably require that two disks of plastic be drilled out to access them (requires a hole saw).

    I went with the OE kit and installed it myself. With a 20% courtesy discount, it ran $206, and included the lighting interface (converts separate bulbs to standand trailer #1157 type).

    It includes a draw bar (but depending on your trailer height, you may have to buy another one), but not the ball. Most small class I utility trailers use 1 7/8" balls.

    Steve
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Just got my May 2002 "Motor Trend" magazine, and this months long term wrap-up is of an extended test of a 2000 OB Limited (H4 auto) wagon.

    Their comments include:
    "....sort of vehicle most SUV buyers really need"

    "The Outback was a successful 'crossover' before the term came into vogue."

    "....pulling power is adequate rather than spectacular"

    They praised the AWD system, comfy seats, HVAC & general controls, build quality, sunroofs, huge std equipment list, space.

    They were down on the gated shifter and engine power with the 4.

    Closing statement: "With its plucky engineering, right sized dimensions, and make the most of a station wagon packaging, the Subaru OB points to the future of SUVs-- even if the rest of them can't see it, yet."

    They listed it as an alternative to the BMW 325xi, VW Passat & Volvo Cross Country.

    Steve
  • armac13armac13 Member Posts: 1,129
    The Chevy/Geo Turbo made 77 hp., exactly the same as the Suzuki which came (in Canada at least) in only the 4 cyl. What I found really funny is that the GM warranty was shorter, the brakes and tires on the Turbo were smaller, the controls and other interiour parts in the Turbo were *vastly* inferiour., and the price was a couple hundred MORE than with the Suzuki. Despite all that, they still sold quite a few - I still see a couple Turbos around. Oh, the EPA mileage estimate was identical.

    the only Ross
  • moseleymoseley Member Posts: 1
    Hey all, it has been two plus years since I last posted . . .thought I would visit again. I had bought a 2000 OB. Would do it again in a second, etc.
    BUT, the highway noise is bothersome. I have experimented, with limited success, with placing small amounts of house weatherizing strips in between the rubber seal, just above where the side view mirror housing contacts the seal. If you look, Subie has already placed a small rubber strip in there to increase contact between the rubber.
    This is not a perfect solution as I think the issue is a poorly designed side view mirror housing. Just my guess.

    I also have some clutch issues, but it seems very sporadic (sometimes I feel like I am back in high school learning to drive a clutch again!)

    Scott
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    This comes from experience on a Mercedes.

    Given you think the problem is the mirror rather than the door seal, get some masking tape and place across all joint areas near the mirror. Most likely one is actuually the forward area of the joint between the mirror and swivel base beneath.

    Test drive vehicle with all joints covered and then remove tape, one piece at a time. Retest.

    When the piece of tape removed dramatically increases wind noise, you have localised the problem. From here, attempt examination of the joint. It is likely that there will be some apparent flaw in moulding of plastic or a displaced saling washer of some sort.

    If you can identify problem, look to disturb wind flow locally. Furry tape like weathershild strip may help if applied to one side or other of the joint.

    A separate area to check is the weathershield rubbers on the door surrounds. After my then 4yo son pulled off one of these, I was nearly driven mad by the windnoise. It became apparent though when I gently pulled at the rubbers that they had slipped from their tracks. Easily fixed!

    Cheers

    Graham
  • rob999rob999 Member Posts: 233
    Here's my $.02 -
    I bought a 'Hidden Hitch' for my 2001 Outback from 1800hitchit.com - no cutting of valance panel required, and it sits up high very nicely so it's almost not noticeable.

    Re: Floor mats - were included in my base model 2001 Outback.

    I also bought the Subaru rubber mats which I would highly recommend. Very heavy duty with deep, grooved channels that catch winter crud quite well, also molded to fit nicely in their respective floor spaces. About $50
  • peterson10peterson10 Member Posts: 116
    Oh, one last thing: I believe the smooth surface of the mirror housing accounts for much of the noise we're all hearing. Try this: wrap some cord (preferably the stretchy sort) a couple of times around your mirror. Make sure its on securely (use some electrical tape if you need), and take the car for a spin. I think its quieter. The smooth surface creates, I believe, some sort of harmonic resonance as the wind sheets over it. With the cord-ribs to channel the wind, there is no longer any resonance. I heard years back that wrapping rope around whistling crossbars would silence them. A friend was about to go nuts with the sound as he was preparing for a cross-country trip. He tried the wrapping, it eliminated ALL of the sound, and I've been convinced ever since that such a remedy might work on our OB side-view mirror. I'll have to do some tinkering.
    YetAnotherDave
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I guess you're talking about a periodic vortex shedding (I love saying that), which is why the antennae is wrapped the way it is on my 1998 Forester L.

    -juice
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    jimw11: I used to have a bunch of pictures showing this procedure posted on Photopoint. I still have the pictures and could email them to you if you contact me at the address in my profile.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    * insert CD
    * turn volume knob clockwise until the wind noise is imperceptible

    :D

    -juice
  • dukephotodukephoto Member Posts: 49
    Juice-

    Who told you my trick for wind noise?
    Macintosh+Volume=No Wind Noise!!!!!

    Dukephoto
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Actually we listen to "Best of Elmo" so I usually hope the wind noise drowns out the stereo! ;-)

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Juice - :-o LOL

    We've moved on to "The Powerpuff Girls" (love Mojo Jojo). At least it beats the purple dinosaur.

    Greg
  • ffsteveffsteve Member Posts: 243
    Brian (goosegog),

    I have photos posted on the replacement of cabin filters that I snagged from a Photopoint album posted here some time ago. I knew I would need them someday and, fearing they might disappear, copied them.

    A few months ago someone else posted asking for them, so I put them up on my pbase account.

    Are you the original photographer? If so, please accept my apologies, and my offer to continue posting them for you.

    www.pbase.com/ffsteve/filterpics (cut and paste)

    Steve
  • mortpeaberrymortpeaberry Member Posts: 69
    I would only put a factory alarm in - because it does not go off in the parking lot all by itself like ,ost (all) aftermarket alarms, but still has an ignition cut off, and insurance discount. Mine was factory installed but the instructions are easy and all the plugs are already there. see:

    http://www.subaru-parts.com/_instructions/2001MY68JH4Security.pdf

    For stereos I really like eclipse (by fujitsu), they are not too flashy, are easy to learn and they have a security code or CD, so that you never have to remove an face plates, but still makes the head unit inoperatable if removed. ·but the new MP3 cd units have a nice advantage: 10 hours per disc capacity! (which bruce album do you want to hear next?) (or you can have power puff girls, sponge bob, telletubbies, and the purple dinasour on 1 disc! - for those parents)

    good luck

    steve-v
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I guess I'll look forward to that stage. ;-)

    -juice
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    Yes Steve, they are my pix. You're welcome, and it saves me the bother of reposting them somewhere else, although I might do that anyway eventually if I get the urge.
  • raptortoothraptortooth Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a used 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback 36,000 miles ago. Shortly after purchasing it I noticed a vibration only when breaking between 45 and 35 mph. At the dealers suggestion I've had the disks turned more than once, pads replaced, and finally all for disk replaced. The vibration improves a bit after each procedure, but always returns to the same level as before. If it's normal for the vehicle then the dealer is taking me to the cleaners. I also the car aligned and purchased new tires to see if that would help. The Subaru mfg rep can only suggest turning the disks again. Anyone else solved a similar problem.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Are they overtorqueing the lug nuts when they install the wheels?

    The hardware can't be causing repeated problems like that. They must be doing something wrong.

    -juice
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    Has anyone installed this themselves? I'm curious as to how delicate this install is going to be -- if there's a good chance I'll screw my car up doing it, I may let the pros do it. SubaruParts.com had them on clearance for around $100 and I couldn't pass it up. The directions look pretty straight forward, but I just wanted "real world" exprience. Any input would be appreciated! Thanks,
    Brian
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    One person on these threads ended up with a dent in the sheet metal, though I can't remember if it was DIY or dealer-installed.. I do think you have to drill into the metal, so there is some risk.

    -juice
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    Those sheetmetal dents are what I'm worried about -- the instructions indicate that (4) 1/8 inch holes must be drilled (after using a SHARP center punch to mark the areas). It warns that if a dull center punch is used, you could dent the panel...that's what worries me...it's really a simple install from the looks of it, but I don't like the prospect of denting the metal. Hmmm...I may drop by a body shop to see how much they might charge to do it.
  • rob999rob999 Member Posts: 233
    I had my spoiler added by the dealer and ended up with dents (probably only noticeable by me) but they're definitely there. Sharp punch or dull, it's probably going to dent the panel when you pound on the punch. Even if you're careful when you make your punch mark, there's still a chance of adding dents if you put too much downward pressure on the drill while it's cutting thru the sheetmetal.

    Suggestion: place masking tape over where the holes are to be located. Mark the hole locations on the tape. If your drill bits are worn, splurge on a single high-quality bit. Having a good sharp bit would be critical, as you don't want to have to bear down to cut the sheetmetal. Use a variable speed drill so you can start the hole very slowly to prevent the bit from wandering. (You could even start with smaller pilot holes - smaller bits wander less). Follow these steps and you'll do a better job than the jamoke who installed my spoiler.
  • peterson10peterson10 Member Posts: 116
    I can be an idiot at times, but I can speak with a bit of confidence on this subject! I installed the grab bar and rear deflector on my OB and it was fairly routine. "Routine" means of course that the templates and instructions were either inaccurate or incomplete. If you have questions about the grab bar just ask, but with respect to the spoiler, I'll assume it mounts more-or-less like the deflector. So, you will probably need a "threaded insert tool", which may - right there - cause you to give up. You MAY be able to borrow one, or you can buy one at a good auto parts store for about $75, or you can order a cheapo/perfectly functional one from Harbor Freight Tools for about $10. I would do my drilling with split-point drills, or better yet, a Unibit (fairly inexpensive at any hardware store). I agree, use a variable speed drill. A sharp automatic center punch (set low) works fine to mark the point where you will drill, just don't make it deeper than necessary. "Dry fit" everything each step of the way. Finally, use a high quality silicone sealant around every exposed metal surface before you put it all together. Piece of cake (fruit cake, with plenty of nuts): took me about 45 minutes.

    Funny thing, once you drill through the skin of your OB (successfully), you feel, for better or worse, that its really, truly YOUR car.

    Enjoy the anxiety,
    YetAnotherDave
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    I appreciate the suggestions...I'll take a look at the spoiler when it comes and decide if I'm up to the task.
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Does anyone know if Subaru sells the Titanium Pearl paint (for the lower portion of the OB) in a spray? I still need to paint the front tow hook bumper cover (FTHBC?) and thought I might be able to DIY.

    Thanks,
    Greg
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I doubt it. I bought a touch-up can of the stuff for my dad.

    According to Pat, body shop supply places can put any color in a spray can for you, though. There is a color code in your door jamb they can use to get factory specs to mix it right.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    You can buy spray paint to match your car at a local body shop perhaps? I know we have a place here in NY that sells spray paint for any make, model year you want. It comes in a can and you buy a spraying device that has compressed gas in them to spray with. My dad bought some years ago when he did some body work on our cars.

    -mike
  • ffsteveffsteve Member Posts: 243
    Brian, good to finally know the photographer of the pics. I have credited you in the blurb on the picture page. Good job!

    For anyone else, once again, please see Goose's pictures showing the replacement of the Outback cabin filters I have posted at the address below. I found them to be well done, and very useful in performing the replacement, and think you will too.

    www.pbase.com/ffsteve/filterpics

    Steve
  • wired1wired1 Member Posts: 45
    Hi,

    I have been enjoying the education and comradarie of this board in preparation for purchasing my first Subaru....looking towards an Outback (either a Limited or Bean).

    I note mention of a board for the "Subaru Crew"...is this accessible thru Edmund's? Does anyone have a link? My thanks in advance.

    Tom
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    look for the Subaru Crew Owner's Club link at the top of the page or here: /direct/view/.eea1a91


    -Brian

  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I was counting pennies, so had to go with a base OB wagon. Assuming we ever get snow again, you will be glad you bought it! Take the plunge...

    Steve
  • wired1wired1 Member Posts: 45
    found the Subaru Crew boards...thanks folks
  • storytellerstoryteller Member Posts: 476
    Tom: Welcome to these boards! I've just read your profile. We're always happy to see someone upgrade from a Mercedes to a Subie. ;-)
  • subyaudidudesubyaudidude Member Posts: 136
    ... how accurate is the Edmunds TMV? It puts the TMV of a 2000 OB Ltd. Sedan at around $18k private party, even though the thing retailed for around $28k originally. Also, I noticed it said "no options" available for the model, but the one we're about to buy for dad has a rear spoiler, security system, and premium sound (among other options). Is the Edmunds staff on crack or what? BTW - I did read the article on the site about Edmunds TMV vs. Kelly Blue Book.
  • k2rider62k2rider62 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all, I just purchased a 2000 Legacy L wagon used from a dealer. It has 19000 miles on it and is making a grinding/pulsing sound under moderate to hard braking. The dealer is supposed to check it out and fix it next week but I wanted to see if anyone else had this problem. Also, I wanted to get a full front cover (bra) for this car. One dealer parts department told me they aren't available anymore because they cause some sort of airflow problems. They are available online though. Any experience with this item? Thanks
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Hmm, my dad bought a 2001 for $25k plus tax. The 2003 models are about to come out, so it's almost 3 years old. My rule of thumb is this, you lose 10% of the value immediately, then 10% more each year. So it should be worth 40% less than the original price, or $15,000.

    So, $18k is solid resale.

    Edmunds may consider those accessories instead of options?

    -juice
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    I've had a bra on my 01 OB (similar but not identical bumper to your 00 Legacy) and have never heard of "airflow" problems. Since the vinyl does not cover one iota of the grill in the hood or in the bumper, I think your parts dept at the dealer is making stuff up...buy it online, anyway, it's cheaper. Subaru-parts.com and subaruparts.com are two good ones, but there are others.
    Brian
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    They can cause serious paint damage if not removed often to clean out sand and dirt. If you aren't very meticulous(sp) with your cleaning it will act like sand paper and take off your paint. Also the paint will fade un-evenly with a bra.

    -mike
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    Kept clean and dry, they are fine on the paint...I have used them for years and hundreds of thousands of miles. Serious paint damage will occur to any paint that's not cared for...regardless of the bra. If the paint's fading "unevenly," then the paint has not been waxed properly over the life of the car. If you're the lazy type, [car] bras are bad news...the sandpapering will look worse than the stone chips you're trying to avoid. Weekly cleanings wax every 2 months have been enough to keep mine looking new for years.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My cars are lucky to get a wash ever 1.5months and a yearly waxing.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My cousin says he washes his Outback once a year "whether it needs it or not"!

    -juice
  • freddi1freddi1 Member Posts: 14
    I have found that the ABS will make that kind of noise-sensation. Get it checked out to be sure, but it is probably the automatic response of the brakes. As far as I know, the ABS only responds when needed so the grinding-pulsing should not be noticeable under lighter braking conditions.
  • bird19bird19 Member Posts: 10
    Need some info/advice regarding:
    I've used 15" Nokias on my '98 Forester, but I intend to move on to a Subaru that uses 16' tires ('03 Forester, Legacy, or Outback models with 16" tires).

    The Nokias have a a lot of tread left, and, due to the expense of new tires, wheels, etc. I would hate to have to sell them to get new 16" version of the Nokia when I get a new Subie.

    I understand that t some U.S. versions of Outbacks and Foresters get 16" wheels/tires, while other countries may get 15" as standard.

    So, my question is: Even if I get a US version of an '03 Forester, Legacy or Outback, with 16' tires as standard equipment, would I be doing any harm to the suspension, handling, etc. if I were to continue using the 15" Nokias that I have?

    I know my odometer would clock faster, but I wonder, again, if suspension, handling, and clearance would be a problem?

    I am posting this on other Subaru Crew boards, so excuse me if you see this post elsewhere.

    Thanks!
  • wired1wired1 Member Posts: 45
    I have read that premium fuel is needed for the 6 cyl. engines..is a particular octane level specified?? Thanks.

    Tom
  • viktoria_rviktoria_r Member Posts: 103
    I love my OB Wagon, but a tad more room especially in cargo area would be very good. The slanted rear glass eats up volume... I prefer Volvo's shape (the rear glass is vertical, so there is more room). I wonder if there will be a larger version of Legacy/OB in next few years?
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    An all-new Legacy and Outback are due for MY 2005. I recently read that the Japanese version will be wider than current model sold over there. This is significant, in that Japanese home-market cars are taxed by their *width.* Therefore Subaru has also built there cars NOT to exceed the current width, in order to avoid the tax increase. It sounds like they may bite the (tax) bullet on the next model.

    If Subaru is indeed going to make the home-market versions wider, I would say that bodes well for wider North American versions too.

    Bob
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