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Subaru Legacy/Outback

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Comments

  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    to be honest, I quit the gym a few weeks ago for the summer. I have other workout plans. Still play ice hockey though - guess that's man enough. ;)

    Greg
  • sukibearsukibear Member Posts: 31
    "Wax paper on a plastic comb" is a perfect description. I know that I have missed a beat on this subject, but I just got back from wind surfing in the Columbia Gorge and the Kazoo is still playing its tune in my head. It's true that it only happens at highway speeds in strong cross or head winds, but since we spend the summer chasing the wind, I'll be in the loony bin come September, if I don't find a solution.

    I'm going to call the dealer right now. Though I'm expecting even if every Outback owner has come to them with this problem, they will say (in a puzzled tone) "hmmm -- never heard of that one" or try to imply that it is all in my imagination.

    I'll share with the Kazoo Crew members anything useful I find out....

    Kim
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    It happens on my Legacy only in high cross winds. To me, it seems to come from the front windshield perhaps from the gutters on the A-pillar. I'm really thankful that I don't drive on high cross winds very often. 8~)
  • donekodoneko Member Posts: 4
    hypov and idahodoug,

    Thank you for the detailed instructions about the panel removal (#5812, #5813).
    I managed to figure it out with your help, sorry I did not reply earlier.

    Those instructions were the best ever written!!!
    You guys are the best!
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Doneko,

    Sometimes the sparkle comes off participating in online discussions like the Subaru board and others when folks don't take a second to thank members like you did. It's personally rewarding to share my decades of experience in vehicles and see people like you benefit, and I'm glad to take the time to type these posts regardless of feedback. I'm sure others feel the same way I do.

    Thanks very much for your comment - I'm happy to see it benefit you.

    It's worth noting as a general comment that there are a lot of members I see providing quality detailed information just because they enjoy helping but the kind feedback seems to be thin. I've seen people get tremendous advice here, yet the intended recipients rarely bother to reply or follow up and it seems to be turning into routine.

    So, a tip of the hat to you Doneko. And a reminder to others that the kind folks who take a few minutes out of the day to scan the boards to help appreciate feedback on how things worked out.

    Regards, IdahoDoug
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    You're welcome.

    Glad that I could help. image


    -Dave

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Doug: did you miss my "thank you" in the Mods thread? ;-)

    That 6CD changer is nice. I bought another yesterday, and it shipped out this morning. Should arrive on Friday, and if so it goes in this weekend.

    I've taken the center console on the Forester apart, but just in case anyone has any tips, I'd love to hear 'em.

    Also, I haven't removed the stereo surround. I did work above it to do the dual cup holder swap.

    -juice
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    see Mods

    -Dave
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Love the little smiley guy! Juice, I did miss the tx - so a doff of the felt to you also. Not clear what car you're removing a stereo surround on, but I've done a couple Legacies recently. Can't remember what thread the post is on. I'm new to this style board and find it way more confusing to remember where I've been than others.

    IdahoDoug
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Did the Legacy last week, now it's the Forester's turn. My confidence is up so I didn't hesitate to buy the 2nd one.

    -juice
  • ssnyder4ssnyder4 Member Posts: 14
    Hi! I've been a long-time reader of the board in hope of owning my own OB someday --- and that day may be very soon. I am looking at a very well kept (does have minor stone chips that have been touched up) 2000 OB Limited with 28,500K on the odo. Does anyone know of anything specific to this car I ought to look at prior to purchasing? I am going to have it overnight sometime this week. My only concern is that the tires need to be replaced and I believe they are the originals (they should be of course). I just got 45,000 miles on my current set of rubber (Michlen) on my car now, so only 28K on the OB tires makes me wonder about how it was driven or if it has a problem with eating tires---any thoughts?. I see that the new OB's at the current dealers have Bridgestone Potenzas on them, is this a good ride? If I am replacing them, what do you recommend? Also, the dealer is asking $18,900 for the OB, which doesn't seem too bad given mileage and Edmund's suggested dealer price. In addition, the dealer is a used car lot, not a new/used Subaru dealer if that matters. I'm very interested in purchasing an extended warranty too, should I go with Subaru or another party for that?
    Thanks,
    Shane.
  • rob999rob999 Member Posts: 233
    IdahoDoug: On behalf of myself and perhaps ssnyder4, didn't you recently put Michelin X-Ones on your Soob? What're your thoughts on these after driving on them the last few weeks?

    Am considering a tire replacement and am strongly considering the X-Ones.
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    Do not replace your tires with new Potenza RE92s. there are far better ones out there. They are fine when there is still a fair amount of tread but stink when they are even half worn. Some people, myself included, have found Michelin XGT Pilot H4s a good replacement. Also the Dunlop Sport (I forget the exact one, but whatever replaced the D60 which ConsumerReports loved so much).I think I will actually go for the Potenza RE950 when I need replacements again. Tirerack reviews great and since I have winter tires a little less "all season" performance is no big deal.Another one which looks promising may be the new Turanza, you can get this in T, H and V speed ratings.
    The michelin X Ones are also good, but T rated only, had them on a 92 Legacy. Almost as good handling as the XGT.
    The RE92s only have a 160 tread wear rating, if the Firestone Wilderness you have are anything like that, thats probably why they are more worn than the Michelins you are used to.
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    you could try the Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus.
    AutoX'ed with the 205/70/15 Michelin Energy MXV4 (not 'Plus') yesterday. I had ~24k miles on those tires and they held up well under very aggressive driving - no spin out no break away nothing. I think it AWD and the tires compliments each other very well.

    -Dave
  • 20llbean20llbean Member Posts: 83
    Just got back from a long trip of mostly highway travel. Averaged out to 26.5 MPG for the H6 with the AC on. As I mentioned, it was almost all highway travel. One other thing, does any onwers out there experinece alignment problems on the OB? I had a four wheel alignment done at 15K before the trip, but it seems no different. Contacted the dealer and he says he did it. I believe but I think he aligned the wheels before the tire rotation (which was also done at 15K).
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    I don't believe (IMO, YMMV) that rotating the tires before/after an alignment should affect it. Unless they bump the wheel hard enough to knock it out of alignment. Or the suspect tire has an inherent problem or something perhaps.

    I recently just had 2 alignments to our Outback. The first at my original dealer. It pulled very very slightly to the left on a right graded road, but holding the wheel center would make it go straight. No visible or measurable tire wear in 20k miles. After aligning it, it pulled stronger to the left and to go straight, I had to hold the wheel at least 2 degrees to the right, even on a right crowned road. They claimed it was within specs. A trip to a different dealer (one recommended by some here) fixed the problem.

    I believe others here have mentioned that the alignment on Subaru's can be tricky.

    -Brian
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Shane: 2000s were the first year of the new body style. They have the phase II SOHC engine, which is nice and torquey. Odds are, if it drives smoothly and quietly, it's a good bet. CR has it on their Best Bets list for used cars.

    The 6CD went in without a hitch. I gotta say, it is much, MUCH easier to do in a Forester (or presumably an Impreza). Took me all of 30 minutes. Details are in the Subaru Crew - Mods thread.

    -juice
  • cookiefleckcookiefleck Member Posts: 1
    I have a '86 4WD wagon I bought new and it is fianlly and sadly time to upgrade. I am considering OB wagons 1997 to 1999. I'm wondering if anyone out there has a preference for one year over another. I can afford a '99 but the lower prices of the slightly older models is appealing.
    Thanks!
  • ssnyder4ssnyder4 Member Posts: 14
    Thanks to all for the input on tires. I recall that the default tire on OB's weren't the greatest. Also, that's a great piece of info. Juice regarding subaruwarranty.com -- that's AMAZING and well worth it -- plus it's a per visit deductible. WOW! I have a '99 Accord and the gas tank rusted which required replacement of it and the fuel injectors -- all of which occurred right after warranty expiration of course. So much for that $1250. I'm sick that Honda would not back that problem. Anyhow, I'm excited that I'm taking the OB over the holiday to play around with. Seems like (from other threads) I may be able to get them down from the $18,900 they are asking.
    Shane.
  • dougy2dougy2 Member Posts: 2
    I'm not sure what happened, but this morning my userID 'IdahoDoug' was blown out of the system. So, guess I'm Dougy2 until further notice.

    On the X-1's I'd hoped to have a couple thousand mile freeway trip in by now, but they only have a couple hundred around town and one short freeway trip on them. So, I'd be remiss in giving them a full review but have so far found them to provide notably better ride, crisp handling and little noise. In fact, the original tires I took off could be heard at freeway speeds but these have receded below the wind noise threshold. Crptplt has worn out a set and would be a better judge of them. Like him, I'll be using a winter specific tire after this first winter while they're fresh and am interested in the new silica compound's low temperature traction.

    Dougy2 / IdahoDoug (yeesh)
  • rob999rob999 Member Posts: 233
    Doug/Dougy2/IdahoDoug: Thanks - I'm looking for a set of tires where reduced highway noise is a significant consideration, sounds like the X-1's might be the ticket. Thanx again for the input.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    image


    Way to hustle it around those cones!


    more pics at http://isuzu-suvs.com/autox


    -mike

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Looks like someone was having fun! :-)

    cookie: '97 to '99 are all good choices. All get CR's Best Bet among used cars and should be reliable. Test drive them and make sure they operate smoothly. The powertrain warranty is 5/60 and is transferable, so there may be some left over.

    '97 to '99 models had the Phase I DOHC engine, with 165hp and 162 lb-ft of torque. All use 87 octane gas, too. So buy according to value and condition. Good luck.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    I just installed the Dunlop Sport A2s. These tires are very quiet. The only noise you hear is when you are cornering fairly hard. Then you get a whirring noise. Great riding too. Just hope the snow performance is OK.

    Greg
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Besides their optimistic claims (15hp? get real), it should bolt on nicely.

    -juice
  • patdadpatdad Member Posts: 9
    Does anyone have experience with Subaru's Dog Guard/Compartment Divider for the OB wagon. I'm wondering whether it mounts by a pressure fit or does it actually fasten to something in the interior? Any ideas for places to buy one at a discount? Maybe someone has an aftermarket version that they would like to recommend. BTW, I would not be using it for a do - I'm only interested in keeping cargo from flying into the passenger area.

    Thanks!
  • mortpeaberrymortpeaberry Member Posts: 69
    the subee guard works by compression on the side window sills. It does not go between roof and floor like generic after market types. It works well (esp. if you have sun roofs) and the cargo cover works with it. I usually tuck the flap up under the guard for more cargo (dog) room when I don't need the cover. also with a bungee, the guard makes a great gun rack for storing/showing off your hobbies (kids shovels, fly fishing rods, levels, children, cats, misc. taxidermy, etc)
    steve-v
  • postmodernpostmodern Member Posts: 38
    I had a generic dog guard like steve-v described in my previous wagon (a 1996 Taurus). Because the generic guards need to fit in many vehicles, they are Rube Goldberg-like in their construction. I constantly had to tighten the many nuts to keep the symphony of squeaks down to a minimum. Besides compressing between roof and floor there's also compression between the 2 side windows (rods ending with suctions cups, oh joy) Periodically, the side rods would loosen up, the suction cups would fall off, and the whole thing would collapse! I dreaded having to remove and reinstall it. It did the job, but...

    In comparison, the Surbaru dog guard is a delight. There are 2 big thumb screws which work by compression on the side window sills. There's even a little rod which can be inserted in a hole in each thumb screw to give a little extra leverage when tightening it. It's installed just behind the cargo cover, so I have full use of both. It's expensive - $195 versus $70 for the generic - but it's more than worth the price. I'd never get another generic guard. I got mine when I bought SueBee last December, but you should be able to get it for less at one of the online sites like Liberty or subaruparts.com.

    Lyn
  • patdadpatdad Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for all of your comments - the Subaru offering definitely sounds like the right choice. Now I'll start the fun process of comparing local dealer prices to those available from Liberty or subaruparts.com.
  • ccampbell4ccampbell4 Member Posts: 60
    My poor car was "hit and run" two days ago. Someone came around a corner and clipped the left rear corner. It's going to need a new bumper cover, a tiny amount of body work and a new tail light assembly. I can get the assembly for $89 from newsubaru.com and delay the body work a little while if I can replace it myself. Is this something I can do? Have any of you ever had to replace the whole assembly?
  • SteveSatchSteveSatch Member Posts: 20
    I have a '98 Subaru Outback with 63,000 and the original Michelin XW4 tires need replaced. I know nothing about tires. I live in Southern California so the weather is mostly nice, but we do get some decent rain and I do drive on dirt access roads maybe once a month that can be muddy in the winter. My drive to work is on the city streets. I drive somewhat aggressively. I don't want loud tires. I don't want to spend more than $100 per tire out the door. I'd love to hear any suggestions.
    Thanks!
    Satch
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    Michelin X one (also sold as radial plus at Sams, Costco etc) depending on size should be under 100.The XW4 must be S rated, or the ones on a minivan we had were, in which case, the Michelin Symmetry (used on lots of minivans and caddys/lincolns where it pretty much replaced the XW4) would be a good bet and cheaper than X one. If you belong to Costco they have Bridgestone Potenza Re930s cheap as they are out of production, had quite good reviews in Tirerack.
  • ssnyder4ssnyder4 Member Posts: 14
    For those of you with automatic transmissions, what is your impression of the operation regarding the demeanor / smoothness of the auto. transmissions? Is it a peculiar transmission in these cars?

    I'm testing a '00 used OB Limited with 28K miles. The tranny sometimes shifts a little hard and makes a definite audible "click" after making shifts when driving in town (may do so on highway too). I hear it with the windows down and I'm not going much over 35 I'd say. I just want to know if this is normal for the tranny used in the OB line. Just a few times the transmission shifted almost too hard for my taste. Now my Accord's auto. transmission is the fussiest thing I've ever experienced, I just had to get used to it's quirks and now I know how to use it given my experience with it. Perhaps OB's are the same. Should I be concerned?

    Also, I know that the car has been aligned at a local Subaru dealer one time since new. Other than that, the fellow who had the car took it to a private shop for routine maintenance. The tires are unevenly worn for sure. Should this be a concern as well??? If the Subaru dealer with whom I spoke fixed the alignment (he verified so over the phone), is the car going to be okay or does this imply something else could be wrong with the car?

    Other than these two issues, I can't find any reason that would keep me from the investment, it's a fantastic drive.
    Thanks in advance,
    Shane.
  • jregen7243jregen7243 Member Posts: 91
    On my '00 OB, the auto tranny shifts very hard and slow when going through the gears after a cold start, even in the summer. It may be very durable, but it is far from the most refined transmission I've ever used. Hopefully Subaru has a 5 speed auto in the works.

    Jon
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    The 'click' you are hearing during shifts may be the torque transfer or the multiplate clutch pack engaging. It is a common noise.

    The transmission does shift hard at times, early especially 1-2. Again, all normal.

    Alignments on 'em can be tricky. It recently took me 2 alignments to get it done correctly. But, it could also be where it's getting performed also. One dealer said it was 'within specs'. Sure, it was in spec, but it wasn't 'correct'. If the tires are worn unevenly, it could be because of the (bad) alignment, or the tires weren't rotated.

    -Brian
  • carseeker4carseeker4 Member Posts: 228
    Now that we are settled in our new Santa Fe, the time has come for.....what else?... thinking about our NEXT car. My "wife's" (we all know BOTH cars are THEIRS) car is now a 99 Pontiac Grand Am and after 3 years we plan to replace it. Her current favorite candidate is the Outback Sedan (she doesn't want the wagon). Does any one know if these will still be available in three years? Are there any plans for phasing out the Outback (sedan...or wagon, for that matter). I know some might try to recommend the Vibe/Matrix but she doesn't like those. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thx.
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    The Outback is Subaru's best seller. It was the start of this whole crossover thing too.

    I haven't heard of any plans to discontinue it and doubt they will. The Baja goes on sale later this year (a pickup based on the Outback).

    Have you considered a Legacy (for which the Outback is based) sedan? The '03 GT gets a VTD automatic transmission with sport-shift. Some have said that the Legacy is kind of a hidden gem in Subaru's lineup, often overlooked.

    -Brian
  • rangerron7rangerron7 Member Posts: 317
    Brian is right on about the OB AT. We own a 00 OB Ltd and as Brian states the 1-2 shift can be a little hard when cold. I also hear a click (particularly the 1-2 shift).
    Ron
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Chris: my Forester was hit a while ago and I got a similar parts list. When I tried to remove the tail light, access was extremely difficult and I didn't have the tools that made the curves and turns required to access the bolts. Plus, the assembly appeared to be glued into place with some type of sealant. So I gave up and called the body shop.

    Sedans? Subaru has the Impreza RS, Impreza WRX, Legacy L, Legacy GT, GT Limited, Outback Limited, and Outback H6.

    If the size works, get the WRX for the fun of it.

    The Legacy L is a great value. You can get one for $17,300 or so, at least while I was shopping a couple of months ago.

    The GT is nice, both roomy and sporty. And we saw the upcoming 2003 2.5 GT model at the New York Auto Show last year, and loved it. It's sort of like a GT Limited sedan now, except they added heaters to the leather seats, VTD AWD with a 45/55 rear bias, and shiftronic manual controls to the tranny. Sweet. Moonroof too.

    If you like the ground clearance and two-tone paint job of the Outbacks, you can even choose between H4 and H6 engines. For about $25 grand, you can get an H6 sedan, and that includes everything, lots of stuff that is optional on competitors (leather, moonroof, in-dash 6CD).

    So you, I mean, SHE will have plenty to choose from.

    In 3 years? Wow, by then there should be a turbo Legacy of some sort, a WRX STi, and lots of yummy options.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The smoother an AT shifts the more slippage there is in the torque converter. The more slippage there is in the torque converter, the more heat and the more damage to the fins. I have ATs in my subies and trooper, all of them shift hard, but this is normal and lead to most of the ATs in those 2 makes lasting over 200K miles.

    -mike
  • carseeker4carseeker4 Member Posts: 228
    can always depend on you, pal! I think the wife likes the higher ride of the Santa Fe, so she'd probably want the Outback sedan. We'd get the H4 since we're replacing a 4-cylinder - with the Santa Fe, I wanted a 6, since we were replacing a 6 (the Lumina). I like having one of each, to give the broadest service range I can get in 2 cars (and I can't afford a Hummer!). As for the Turbo...forget that one! She slapped a curb in the Pontiac while answering the cell phone, causing a blowout! Fortunately, she wasn't going too fast. NO Turbo!! Noooooo....nooooo....
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    In that case, get an Outback Limited sedan (H4) and invest in a weekend at Bob Bondurant (for her). :-)

    -juice
  • lizardpuplizardpup Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 2000 Legacy Brighton automatic with 38k on it today and for my test drive...no problem. Of course after I signed all the papers and drove home, I found that sometimes at stoplights, the whole car bucks and shakes and threatens to stall. Once I accelerate and get moving, the shaking stops completely. I can only reproduce it 5% of the time. Also I hear some reverberation in the cockpit that sounds like whistling but the frequency is annoying and noticeable. I see I'm not the only one to have some of these problems, could someone help me? It's only under powertrain warranty now and the mechanic thinks I need to drive it more to "wear the rust off the brakes a bit" since it's been sitting on a lot for awhile???? Sounds fishy. I'd appreciate anyone's help...thank you.
    -Elizabeth
  • hurler4hurler4 Member Posts: 104
    I was looking for links to 2003 Legacy GT pictures, but couldn't find any. Could someone give me the URL to any pictures? Thanks.
    Also, does anyone know if the 2003 Legacy GT will be available in a manual, or will it just have an auto sports shift?
  • carseeker4carseeker4 Member Posts: 228
    .. <<grin>>... and by the way, I remember you saying that you had spent some time at OBX and drove on the beach there. We're about to head to the Delmarva, not far from Assateague State Park in MD. Are you familiar with that area? Any areas to try out some beach driving there? Thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Elizabeth: I'd ask them to check the idle speed, sounds like it may be idling at too low rpms. Maybe also inspect all the belts to make sure they aren't frayed.

    Rust will form on just about any brake discs if they sit long enough. It actually can happen overnight, and usually does, albeit and very thin layer. That's only surface rust and should go away as you apply the brakes the first couple of times each day.

    It should not affect their effectiveness, though. You can get rotors zinc-coated if the look bothers you, though it's not necessary.

    paisan's web site has pics of that Legacy, anyone have the URL handy?

    Ted: yes, I'm very familiar with that area. I go to Bethany Beach, DE, about 4 times per year with friends that own a place up there. Just north of Bethany are entrances to the beach. You can buy a season pass or just pay each time. You do have to be actively surf fishing, I believe, so take a rod and reel.

    Farther south, there's Assateague, as you mentioned. It's a lot bigger and more fun, plus there are the wild horses there (gorgeous). Take bug spray, though.

    Your Sante Fe (is that right?) has a VC AWD and should be fine as long as you're not dune-hopping. Just take it smoothly and air down. You'll appreciate all the dumb stares from traditional 4WD owners. :-)

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I think it may be a Throttle Position Sensor on the brighton wagon.


    Pics from the NY Auto show are at http://isuzu-suvs.com


    -mike

  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    You may want to go a bit further south and hit Assateague Island from Chincoteague, VA. You may(?) have more access to the beach in terms of driving. It's been a while since I've been there, however.

    I know you'll have to buy a beach pass for your vehicle, and have the necessary beach-driving stuff: tow strap, jack, board for your jack, shovel, etc.

    Chincoteague is a neat place. It's a little fishing village, just over the VA line, and right next to Wallops Island, where they have the famous pony roundup, and was home to Misty the pony, from the children's book.

    Make sure you bring plenty of bug spray, as it is in a marshy area, with industrial-strength mosquitoes! There's also an area where you can drive through the marsh areas. It's all part of the National Park system. I highly recommend it.

    Bob
  • carseeker4carseeker4 Member Posts: 228
    Thank you both very much. I actually got off my lazy mouse pad when I had a moment and rsholland is indeed correct about all the stuff you need to get ORV clearance in Assateague/Chincoteague, that, plus they only offer a $70 annual ORV pass, so that pretty much eliminates me (who's only going for a week...its doesn't make financial sense unless I lived nearby). I think I'll go with Juice's tamer option which I believe in the Delaware Seashore SP - north of Bethany Beach (which is where we are staying). I already have the pump, gauge and fising rods/tackle - just get me some SQUID..... thanks again, guys
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    If you drive on DEL Beaches, I'm almost certain that you need to be FISHING!

    The Park Service there will ticket you if you're on the beach with your vehicle, and not fishing. So just make sure you put your fishing lines out...

    Bob
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