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Thanks!
Good Luck!
Anatomy of a "free car" deal
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Did I hear the Chrysler announcement wrong or does the incentive page need an update?
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
The dealer did not order this car in my name or I would not have gotten the rebate. Did the dealer do this because he was helping me or did Ford tell them to do it this way?
I have heard of others that got a rebate on an ordered fusion at other dealers.
Does that help?
thanks
pak3010
When you are negotiating a price, negotiate the price with the salesperson before the rebate is applied. The rebate comes out of the manufacturer's pocket, not the dealership's, so the salesperson should not be concerned about the price reduction due to rebate.
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The negotiability of price is not related to the rebate, but you're right - it CAN be related to the consumer demand for the vehicle. If the model is flying off dealer lots, you probably won't get a big discount. However, a rebate offer doesn't necessarily mean sales will go through the roof.
Just go ahead and stop by the discussion I linked above, and post about the vehicle you're wanting to buy. People can help you determine a realistic negotiating strategy that will help you and the salesperson get you into the car you want.
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-Any chance I can get approved on my own?
-Since we're buying out the lease early, can we negotiate on the buyout price? Honda said NO it is not negotiable at all, but I thought I've read that it is.
-Do we need to have the car inspected or anything? (for warranty purposes etc?) ETA: Speaking of which, any tips on what will be the best warranty?
-Are we best to go through a Honda dealer, or a bank, or?
Thanks very very much for any advice or info!
Here's an article discussing short sales vs. foreclosure: http://homebuying.about.com/od/foreclosures/f/072509_Short-Sale-vs-Foreclosure.h- tm
It discusses how each would affect your credit.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about the Odyssey until next year. I would focus on your family and getting your finances in order. A lot can happen in a year. Another solution may appear next year.
If you husband is the only one on the mortgage and car, and you are looking to finance the car in your name, why does it matter if it is done now or 1 year from now? The sale of the home won't affect your credit, so your chances of getting financed won't go down in the future for this particular reason.
I agree with the above, just wait. It will cost you more to do it now (you'll be paying double interest, for one thing). So you are much better off seeing what the following year brings.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'm negotiating a car sale now and there is a manufacturer's rebate as well. Instantly the salesperson said the car sells for $30,000 but there is a $2,000 manufacturers rebate so your price would be $28,000.
All the reading I've done says the manufacturers rebates should be factored in post car sale price and tax because manufacturer's rebates should be applied towards the loan as part of the down payment.
Is the salesperson trying to be cleaver and make more money? I ran the numbers and the amount of interest paid on the loan is greater if I go the route the salesman is trying to present.
Thanks for any information.
Customer rebates are published by the manufacturers, so all you need to do is go to their website.
In reality, there rarely is "cash back" as the customer typically applies the rebate at the time of the transaction. By "apply" I mean it counts as if the customer brought a check for that amount.
As far as manufacturer's rebates should be applied towards the loan as part of the down payment -- that's completely up to you. I've taken rebates and paid cash for the rest, and I've taken rebates and paid some cash and taken a loan for the rest.
The best way to think about it is this: The rebate money is your money that you bring to the dealership. You can do with it whatever you want... except take it home with you if you don't buy the car ;->
Good luck,
-Mathias
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
THe numbers I used were just for example.
$750 Customer Cash Back Savings is from Toyota Motors.
BMW's website only lists the $2500 Spring Drive Credit, no mention of the All Wheel Drive Credit. The dealer I've have contacted by e-mail also only mentioned the Spring Drive Credit.
Is there something I'm missing, or is there in error in the Edmunds listing?
Thanks
$1840 Cash to Customer start: 03/02/2010 end: 04/30/2010 Get Dealer Pricing
Restrictions $1,840 All Wheel Drive Credit can be used in conjunction with Lease, OwnersChoice, Retail Finance or Select contracts. It can also be used for customer purchases not utilizing leasing or financing through BMW Financial Services. Please see your dealer for details.
Comments Dealer participation may vary. Incentives and Rebates are provided subject to the terms of our Visitor Agreement.
Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
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I know dealers often tack on interest rate rates from loans, but this one is advertised nationally by Honda Financial Services for qualified buyers, which by their own accreditation I am.
To me this seems to have crossed the line from hard negotiation into "bait and switch". Anyone else had any similar experience and/or advice.