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Volkswagen EuroVan

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Comments

  • larvalarva Member Posts: 2
    my '01 eurovan brake indicator in the dash has come on and will not go away. all the time i'm driving it beeps at me. when i stop, it stops. when i start up again, it starts up again. it is driving me insane! the brake fluid is fine, the brake sensors and pads are fine. we thought maybe the sensor under the hand brake cover was stuck "on" but, no, it's not. meanwhile the windshield wipers, headlights, and AC don't work! any ideas? please help!
  • sbaussiesbaussie Member Posts: 5
    don't know if you fixed it but if not go to the cheapest piece first. If the Temp sending unit is bad it will tell the engine computer it is really cold and the computer will enrichen the mixture to compensate = big running problems
    cheap part
  • sbaussiesbaussie Member Posts: 5
    Just went through the engine light deal. Light on van running rough. If it stays on go to your service/dealer. They can tell you in about 25 seconds what it relates too. Mine was a bad coil on #1 cylinder . They took it out swapped with #2 and retested it now #2 showed a bad coil. So cleaned all the contact and $52.00 later I'm on my way van running great.
    you can do the diagnostics yourself for about $200 . check VAG-COM
  • yushenyushen Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 weekender. I just purchased an Optima Blue-top D34M "Dual-purpose" battery from Costco (it's labeled as D34, but I'm pretty sure that it's actually the D34M because it's got the light-gray color and is also labeled dual-purpose). It was about $145, and it fits just fine if laid on its side. As far as I can tell from Optima's web site (and by calling their phone number), the light gray blue-tops are deep-cycle, and the dark-gray blue-tops are starter.

    The width of the battery is no problem: it's 10" wide, and there's about 13.25" of space width-wise under the driver's seat.

    It's the height under the driver's seat that's the main constraint. I measured that I could handle a battery as high as about 7.75". Laid sideways, the Blue-top D34M is just 6.83", so it was no problem.

    In terms of the other direction, depth (i.e. forward/backward with respect to the front of the car and back of the car), I measured that I could take a battery that was 7.75" deep and remain seated on the metal battery plate (I bet I could probably handle something larger if I didn't care to stay seated on that plate). Anyway, although the specs on Optima's web site say that it's 7.9" (which exceeds my 7.75" depth allowance), it fits. The reason is that the metal terminals have some height...maybe an inch or so. I did have to remove and get rid of the little metal screw-down tab that locks the battery in place to the floor of the car. That's alright; I think the battery is relatively boxed-in / secure enough in there to be safe... and not need to be locked down.

    P.S. One thing confused me when buying the battery. I had hoped to buy the Yellow-top D34/78 because that's what I've seen other folks post about. But Costco didn't carry it. From what I can tell, the Blue-top D34M is identical (the specs seem to indicate the same physical dimensions, same deep-cycle, and same electrical specs)... except that the Yellow-Top has an extra set of side-terminals.

    Also, I don't quite understand why I'm finding that the Blue-top D34M fits fine, when others say that the Yellow-Top D34/78 (which according to Optima's web site's specs has almost identical dimensions) doesn't fit and needs to have it's top terminals cut off. Maybe that's true for Vanagons... or maybe that's was true for earlier versions of the Yellow-top battery. I dunno.
  • bfeenybfeeny Member Posts: 4
    Can anyone tell me how to repair torn screens without removing the canvas. Also the canvas is dirty and stained - what do you clean it with?
  • vtforvwvtforvw Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm thinking of buying a 2002 Eurovan MV with pop up and the carfax shows it recently failed the emission test several times. Carfax warns that this could be engine problems. Should I avoid the vehicle? I really want a Eurovan! What if I get a good price for it to cover any repairs that may be needed?
    Thank you!
  • keybankerkeybanker Member Posts: 20
    My 1999 Eurovan which was running great required $2,500 in engine repairs in order to pass DEQ. That included replacing the gas tank. I love my Eurovan camper but be prepared for BIG repair bills if you buy one.
  • luby1luby1 Member Posts: 2
    I need new tires for the Eurovan again. It was very expensive last time, but now its ridiculous to get the tires rated for the VAN (over 1k installed). The tire salesman told that almost nobody is buying the only tire (Dunlops) available for the Eurovan anymore. They are all going for the next best thing. I trust these guys implicitly but, obviously, the dealer wont condone it. I went for it and bought tires rated at the 98T as opposed to 102's.

    Anyone else at there make the same decision, and what was their experience?
  • StillVeeDubberStillVeeDubber Member Posts: 15
    If you email VW about it, they will point to "Nokian Tyres". There is a distributor in the U.S.. I just recently got my first set a month or so ago. www.meadowbrook.com or go to "http://www.nokiantires.com/dealer-locator" to find one. You may find that the nearest dealer doesn't exist, but I would hope that is rare. Wichita, for example, doesn't sell them, though there is one listed or shown for Wichita. I checked a couple of places in Texas and Nebraska and one was just a gas station and the other never replied with the promised email, but the one in Denver is the main one for me in Oklahoma and didn't have any problem.
    I bought the WR-C model (commercial van tires) and they are stiff and will ride rough. I have 50lb psi in them. They look good and should last well over 40k, from what I was told. Those run about $142/ea with approx. $15 shipping for each.
    The WRG2 model will cost you nearly $300 more in the total.
  • StillVeeDubberStillVeeDubber Member Posts: 15
    One last note....you need 102+ rated tires. The tires will wear out in weird ways and places if you don't. I tried that after the original Michelins wore out and after a few years of replacing a tire here and there, discovered that 97 rated tires were way underrated for a van that has a 6k lb GVWR. I bought almost the last set of Michelins in the country and they lasted 40k to the mile and then I just recently replaced them with the Nokians. I found out about these two years ago after I had bought the Michelins....for the same price. I paid about $80 to install them and add Nitrogen. I tried Nitrogen a couple of years ago when I had the Michelins put on and noticed they lost nor gained air pressure during any and all seasons. So, I figured it wasn't a gimmick....and had it put into my wifes tires as well.
  • jdogdenjdogden Member Posts: 1
    Hope you have your answer by now but if not, I had the same situation on my 2001 EV and the problem is that ignition key switch. You do not need to remove the actual switch but can buy the internal component from the dealer. You must work under the dash to remove the component and replace with the new. I suggest you buy the part first and then you will know what you need to remove from the switch. Not the most fun working position but you can do it yourself in about 1 hour.
  • luby1luby1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks so much for the detailed info! One last question. I already went ahead with the tires rated at 98 due to budget constraints. I figured better than the cracked Michelins. I am willing to replace them in a year or as soon as I can find a reasonable 102+. My Eurovan has a GVWR of around 5500 and I dont generally haul around much cargo. Am I really flirting with a disaster? Did you experience any blow outs when you were riding on the 97's?

    The closest nokiantire is 500 miles away. Maybe reason for a road trip :-)
  • kmmeurovankmmeurovan Member Posts: 3
    I own a 1995 Eurovan camper that I imported new from Canada. For the past 2 years the engine will occasionally just shut down for an instant then resume. This appears to be an electrical problem because it happens so abruptly and the van returns to normal immediatly. The dealer has found nothing unusual when reading the engine codes. I have replace the plugs, wires and coil at their suggestion but the problem persists. Has anyone had a similar problem or any suggestions? Thank you.
  • inlinefiveinlinefive Member Posts: 4
    Hello:

    This is the 2.5L 5 cylinder, right?

    My somewhat-educated guess is that it is the Idle Control Valve (a.k.a. the Idle Stabilization Valve), part number W0133-1601935, $200 to $400, depending upon where you get it.

    InlineFive
  • kmmeurovankmmeurovan Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your reply. Yes it is the in line 5. The instant shut down occurs while I'm driving at highway speeds, not when I am at idle. In fact, it's never actually stalled.
    Would the idle control valve have an effect at that speed?
  • keybankerkeybanker Member Posts: 20
    I had the same the problem. The dealer replaced the throttle body and that did the trick.
  • kmmeurovankmmeurovan Member Posts: 3
    Did your Eurovan momentarily loose power before it was repaired? Do you remember what the dealer did to determine what the problem was? Thanks.
  • toms_campertoms_camper Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 EuroVan camper with the left rear tail light out. The VW dealer has no idea how to change due to the camper cabinets etc. being in the way. Any simple solution to this problem?
  • keybankerkeybanker Member Posts: 20
    Yes, it did the same thing. It would momentarily stall or stumble. It also affected the idle speed (too slow). As you know, the engine has a computer and the dealer must have read a code to determine the problem.
  • zigzigzogzigzigzog Member Posts: 1
    I know it's been a while... do you still have the roof rack for sale?

    Thanks,

    Bruce
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    what size nokians are you running, stock 225/60-16? I see only 225/65-16 on their website in that model WR-C, if that is the size do they fit ok?
  • StillVeeDubberStillVeeDubber Member Posts: 15
    215/60r16 I don't have the van now because of a recent accident. But the company downshifted me in size, supposedly. But I found that they're a tad larger in diameter. My GPS used to have me 2mph slower then the speedometer on the Michelins. These show only 1mph slower.

    They are commercial Van tires and will ride rough. The tire place where I had them put on put 50psi in them because it was the lowest they could. I had a group within them once and still they road a bit rough, but I'll live with it and not pay the extra $300 for another set of Nokians that have a lower weight rating.

    Call the people at the Meadow Creek Performance website(http://www.meadowcreektire.com/dealers.html). It's toll free: 1800-222-7360.

    Meadow Creek Performance Tire Warehouse
    4985 Colorado Blvd.
    80216 Denver, Colorado
    1-800-222-7360
  • StillVeeDubberStillVeeDubber Member Posts: 15
    I meant "I had a group of people in the van with them on and they road rough". I don't regret it. Our kids are grown and we very rarely these days get it full and ride off into the sunset for a long trip. These may be the last tires we'll buy for them. If I keep it longer more then 50k miles, then I may have to buy another set.
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    thanks for the info, when you get the car back please, please let me know what the tire size is. I have a winne rialta which is the eurovan cab with a winnebago body. I need tires with a 109 load rating minimum and there are 225/65-16s which have higher load rating than the 215/65-16s I am presently running but I am concerned about the size being a little too big on the VW front end. The nokian site shows 205/65-16s, 215/65-16s and 225/65-16s for the WR C /WR C cargo model. Looking at the vehicle, the 225/65-16s should fit fine but I would be so much more confident if someone has put them on their vehicle with no problems.

    Finding tires for the rialta is a PITA, nokian just sent me the last hakka cs in 215/65-16 this side of the atlantic! I was stuck a 1000 miles form home 2 years ago when I lost 2 tires on the road and the same thing happened again, they had to fedex me the last one in the country and I had to drive home with no spare!
  • tonywetonywe Member Posts: 2
    I have had many problems with the clips for the blinds on the side windows. Does anyone know if you can still get those clips & where from? Do you have to drill out the old ones to replace them or is there a better solution? Thanks
  • fbrawsr0fbrawsr0 Member Posts: 16
    Just passed 50k trouble free miles on my EV and am looking for advice regarding service or tuneups that may be required at this milestone. I lost the owners manual. Need advice specially for brakes as I may need them. Any feedback will be welcome. Thx
  • dcourseydcoursey Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone run into a problem where the latch at the end (away from driver) of the passenger-side sliding door jams in such a way that the door will no longer close? I am having that trouble and wonder if there is a solution that doesn't require a lot of expensive dealer help?

    Thanks!
  • StillVeeDubberStillVeeDubber Member Posts: 15
    On my '02 Eurovan GLS, the brakes went out at about 36k and the dealer said that's when they're supposed to. The Van is extremely heavy. Tires wear out at their 40k, unless you got some good Nokians. My shocks had to be replaced at about 100k. Since I've been driving the van, the brakes have lasted longer then when my wife was driving it regularly.
  • StillVeeDubberStillVeeDubber Member Posts: 15
    Make sure all bolts/screws are tight in the door and the latch on the frame. If not, then tighten them and make sure they're lined up. That's a guess on my part. I've had the latch on the doors come loose via their bolts.
  • akeurovanakeurovan Member Posts: 1
    No easy way...(I also have a 2002 EVC) To replace the left rear tail light the entire cabinet needs to be unscrewed and slid out. I couldn't believe it when I found that out. Make sure you find a dealer/shop with EVC experience in your area that knows how to do it. I was charged 1 hour labor. Have them replace all the bulbs at the same time.
  • stevensdsstevensds Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2000 Eurovan that we love but took off the road about a year ago because we just couldn't keep up with the repair bills. :lemon: Even the service guy at our local dealership said "I feel bad, you shouldn't be in here this often. It's a good vehicle generally but you got a bad one." It currently needs an AC compressor, shroud, fan & belts. We think it deserves more than just to be traded in for a grand or so on a new purchase, it would be worth something to someone who could love it and take care of it. We either need to find that person or become that person. We live in Northern Virginia.
  • peacekindpeacekind Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Eurovan and the heater fan/blower recently started making a noise like a helicopter. It’s loud and very annoying. Anyone experience this issue or have any advice? I’d like to try to fix it without spending a fortune.

    I also had the same issue with our 1993 Eurovan, but that one sounded like a very loud angry cat. We have gotten sort of accustomed to driving around cold… but it’s getting old. Help!

    Thanks!
    Frosty Fingers in PA.
  • bob307bob307 Member Posts: 5
    We had a big cold spell with lots of snow and now there is a major crack that runs clean across the pop top for my 1995 Eurovan camper. It appears that I will need to buy a new one or one from a junk yard or something. Does anyone know who to contact for one of those? Is that a Winnebago part or does someone else make those for them?

    Has anyone else had this problem? It is the first time I have ever heard of that happening. Anyone with any insight or resources… please let me know.

    Thanks
  • nancyweatherupnancyweatherup Member Posts: 1
    There IS an easier and infinitely cheaper way to replace these left tail light bulbs. I have a 2003 EV and after hearing from another EV owner that she had been quoted a figure close to 300 dollars for the job, I figured out a way to do it myself.
    Loosen up the electric panel and carefully pass your arm (small arm helps) over and up to the burned out bulb. Pretty much by feel remove it and replace with fresh bulb. Check operation before screwing back the elec. panel. You're done!

    Remove the closet ? Are they crazy !? Just go slow and easy the first time. The next timer it will seem easier.
  • fbrawsr0fbrawsr0 Member Posts: 16
    After I read your post, a friendly driver cautioned me about a burnt out tail light. I own a 2003 Eurovan GLC & was having nightmares of the cost of replacement. The bulb cost $2.00 at Autozone. It was easy. The three bulbs for the tail, brake and signal lights have sockets on a 3X3 circuit board that can be removed by squeezing two plastic clips that hold it in place. Once this is free it is easy to change the bulb. It is a tight space & took less that ten minutes. Good Luck.
  • chico1969chico1969 Member Posts: 1
    I am putting out a feeler to see who is interested in my van. It has about 84,000 miles and is fully loaded. The tranny has problems between 2-3rd gears but otherwise it performs like a champ. And it really hauls azz! Exterior needs a little body work and a paint job. Interior is in really great condition. I have a lot of pictures. I want to get at least $6,000 for it.
  • roscoeluxroscoelux Member Posts: 3
    Same thing here, did you find any sources for the poptop? Not an easy item to scare up.
  • bob307bob307 Member Posts: 5
    No… I have pretty well struck out. If you don’t mind me asking… where did your top crack? If you are looking at the passenger side of the van, mine cracked almost straight across the top and starting just above the aft part of the sliding door. Seems like if there is a place in the van that would flex the most, it would be about right there. Is that where it happened to you too? I was wondering if that is just something that happens with older vans or if I had a crack in the frame or something that caused it to crack. I crawled around under and inside the van and everything looks fine in that area. So I am not sure what caused the crack to occur.

    I took the van to some local body shops and no one seems interested in working on that plastic material. If they would consider it, they were talking about $1,500. So I took a tube of silicone calking and smeared it all over that crack and that seems to be holding for now.

    I called Winnebago. They said because it was so old they did not stock that part any more. They referred me on to Mobility RV www.winnebagoparts.com/ I called them and they either have it or can get a hold of it… but they wanted $3,200 or something like that plus shipping.

    I have not looked at used ones, because I worry about getting another 15 year old top and having it crack again. I fear that I might have to just step up and buy that new one.

    What are you doing about your van?
  • roscoeluxroscoelux Member Posts: 3
    Sounds like the same place as yours, I also have run a bead of silicon and haven't had any leaks. Go Westy said they could get a new one for about $2700, better than $3200. I keep looking but it is a difficult proposition alright. A '95 problem I wonder???
  • bob307bob307 Member Posts: 5
    I guess I feel better knowing yours busted in the same place. I was thinking that something might be structurally wrong with my van or I might have had too much bedding up there that caused pressure for it to break. I guess I got 15 years out of the first one… if I can get 15 years on the second one I should be covered.

    I will check up on Go Westy. I didn’t know they could get a Eurovan top. They are in California which will be way less shipping to Oregon. Thanks for the tip and extra cash savings.
  • roscoeluxroscoelux Member Posts: 3
    You will have to call Go Westy and they locate it from some unnamed supplier. I passed another camper today, same vintage and it had the same crack across the top as mine. Please let me know if you go for the Go Westy top, I haven't yet but it is on my mind daily.
  • lmelmedlmelmed Member Posts: 1
    Just picked up a 2001 Weekender and had a few basic questions:

    1) Floor mats: can you still fold the rear bench seat with rear mat (rubber/carpet), or does it inhibit it rolling forward?

    2) Auxiliary: which outlets/lights are run by the auxiliary battery? If I want to run something at the campsite (e.g. little radio) without running down the main battery, should I install an inverter? Suggestions/improvements?

    3) how bad is the little cooler? Should I just use it for storage, or does it work at all?

    4) Any good seat covers that are not as expensive as Wet Okole (and don't smell)?
  • keybankerkeybanker Member Posts: 20
    I have a 1999 Eurovan camper and I can roll the back seat out over a rug but it is a thin rug. If it was a thicker rug it would not roll out.

    The auxilliary battery powers everything in a camper behind the front seats. To double-check I suggest you disconnect the engine battery which is very easy to do and see what still has power.

    I would never run anything off the engine battery when I am camping.

    The cooler should run while you are traveling and for a couple more days after you stop.

    I would try some good upholstery cleaner before buying slip covers.
  • keybankerkeybanker Member Posts: 20
    P.S. I can't count how many times I have tried to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life and be in a beautiful, quiet setting, only to have it spoiled by a neighboring camper who can't leave his little radio at home.
  • fam_of_5fam_of_5 Member Posts: 1
    The sliding door shuts but it is sometimes hard to open. Also it is rubbing the down the locking latch. I have checked all the bolts and they seem to be tight. It seem as if the door should moved just a slight higher but I can't find a way to adjust. Or could it be related to the sliding wheel? Has it been worn down and needs to be replaced. I forgot to mention it is a '93.

    Thanks!
  • inlinefiveinlinefive Member Posts: 4
    Hello:

    This may sound stupid, but I cannot figure-out this. I am trying to remove the headrests / head restraints from the two front seats. The Owner's Manual, complete with illustration, says simply to push-in on the little tabs at the base of the steel rods, which support the head rests. Well, THERE ARE NO LITTLE TABS. Maybe there are tabs on the GL and MV, but not this one, a CL.

    I fooled around with it for about half an hour yesterday, and, for the life of me, I could not figure-out how the Heck to remove them.

    Any tips / ideas? Is there some little trick? A tool, perhaps? I am baffled. :confuse:
  • ereslereresler Member Posts: 3
    Many thanks for posting this solution. I have a 1999 Eurovan which for the last two years had an intermittent problem where the amber ABS light and red Brake indicator lights would stay on after the car was started. Also the CLIMAtronic control would display 'HE' and go into a heat only mode and the headlights and wipers would also not work. Usually turning the ignition key off and restarting the car would solve the problem until recently. After reading the ignition switch replacement solution, I asked the VW dealer to replace it. I did NOT have to replace the mechanical switch (the key lock and steering column lock part @$250), ONLY the electrical switch part ($50) which is attached to the bottom end of the ignition switch lock. The labor charge was $335 (ouch) but all is now working. Thank you again.
  • tmadigantmadigan Member Posts: 2
    all

    My 1995 eurovan camper quits working when the temp gauge gets to about 3/4 or so i pull over put in park turn engine off let cool down to 1/2 or so start up put back in drive and off i go no problems no grinding or anything any help any ideas this problem is driving me crazy as well as mechanics......thanks tom
  • ereslereresler Member Posts: 3
    Are you using premium fuel with octane rating of 91 or greater? Vanagons and Eurovans both require this grade of fuel. I knew a friend who had a similar problem when he used regular fuel. The engine would just quit on vacation trips but then start up after cooling off.
  • peaceluvpoptoppeaceluvpoptop Member Posts: 2
    I was wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction. I recently put a new alternator in my 2002 VW Eurovan MV, and $1000 dollars later it still needs more work! My van has passenger type tires on it (98 load) and they told me it needs 102 truck load tires but the ride is not as smooth. Well now they are telling me that my left and right tire rods are bad as well as the lower ball joints. They also want an arm and a leg to fix it! Has anyone ran into this problem? What was the cost? I also need to put new brakes on it.... can I do it myself? Is anyone having problems with their front door locks, (mines broken) everyone says that its sooo common but they want to charge 350 to fix it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am so broke from constantly fixing my van!
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