Ford Aerostar

64mercman · April 2005

Looking for low mileage Aerostar with 4.0 engine. Extended length. 1996 or 1997. Central or S. Florida areas.

brendon · April 2005

Hi first time poster. I have a 4.0 1990. When its cold it won't shift out of 1st (its an automatic) and races if you run it over 20-25 mph. Its an old vehicle but only has 50k on it and seems overall in good shape. bot it about 2 weeks before this started up. Sounds like trans but had a friend go over it and looks to be in good condition so he thinks is a sensor any advice. Dont want to just take it to a shop where they will look for every little thing and charge accordingly.

Thanks,
Brendon
Portland Oregon

12shield · April 2005

I had the same problem with my 94, the problem comes from moisture getting to the the distributor cap and ignition wires. Your brother needs a tune-up, Get prepared for about 3 hours of knuckle busting work but it will be worth it. Until then spray "wire dry" on the cap and on as many wires as you can get to, it will put a protective coating on them. :shades:

bobbym1 · April 2005

I have an '87 aerostar and recently installed new brakes and master cylinder. After driving about 5 miles it felt like the emergency brake was on and i started smelling burning brakes. Pulled over , called the mechanic and he came out and bled the brakes a bit and they released. Everything seemed fine for about 2 more miles, then again same thing. He says that hes never heard of this and doesnt know why they would do that. Any ideas anybody? I really need some help here. :-) Thanks!
Stuck in Clairemont

jsambo1 · April 2005

I have a 93 aerostar with 116k miles but no airconditioning and I live in north carolina. I had it converted to the new coolant but it stopped working the next year and was diagnosed with the "black death". I laughed until the mechanic said it would cost $2000 to have all of the hoses blown out and replaced to fix the problem. I had another mechanic confirm that there was such a thing as"black death" that afflicted aerostar airconditioning systems. Has anyone ever dealt with such a plague and can you tell me how to get around this problem without paying such a ransom. I drove last year without air but the lack of rear windows makes opening the windows less than a useful alternative.
thank you

leftys7 · April 2005

After 9/11 I went to the airport and they were searching the trunks of all vehicles. They opened the tailgate of my Aerostar XL and opened the two floor storage compartments and told me"Did you know that these are filled with water?" I didn't. The floor rug from mid third seat to the rear tailgate was soaked. Luckily I live in a dry climate, northern Nevada, but after a rain I find it still gets soaked. I drilled two holes in the floor of the jack well and leave the plug out on the other side. I've checked it myself and had my mechanics check it by sitting inside and having it sprayed with a hose but we cannot find a source for the leak. Any ideas? I don't want to take off all the interior panels and will probably just live with it if I can't figure out the source.

fordfan4 · April 2005

My mo had a 88 ford aerostar van and i loved it the thing had way over 200,000 miles on it and still had the original engine and transmission and its been to las vegas and back twice in it and i live in Louisiana and we only had 3 problems with it the whole time we had it and it was the ignition module went out 2 times on it but it was an easy repair all we had to do was take the cover off the back of the engine from the inside and there it was then one of the power steering hoses broke and that was it and this van never hesitated to start and we could still spin the tires on it lol if i was u id buy another used aerostar

marinewife0930 · April 2005

Does anyone know the kind of Light A '95 Aerostar takes for a Parking Light/ Turn Signal? Bought mine and it was broken, and I really need to replace it.

ncposey · May 2005

I also have a 97 Aerostar it only has 180,000. Some one rearended it last week an the insurance company says it is totaled. they say it is only worth 3000.00 but I can't find one for that amount. This is my 3rd Aerostar and I think they are great dependable vans. We had planned to use this one for at least 2 more years.

aeronut1 · May 2005

Have a 94 4.0L AWD (bad tranny) and a 93 3.0L RWD (bad engine). Can I swap the 3.0L engine for the 4.0L?

rileyjames · May 2005

I'm seriously considering buying a 1993 Ford Aerostar XLT 4WD Extended Passenger model. It has less than 100,000 miles on is going for $2400obo. It's in great shape, has one owner, and owner has all of the service records. Does Anyone know anything about this particular model is it very reliable? I used to own a 1992 Ford Taurus wagon and that thing was a money pit. I'm a little leery about buying a Ford but I hear Aerostars are pretty good vehicles. By the way, it also comes with the towing package. Does anyone know what the '93 towing package consists of? If I buy it I'm considering adding a tranny cooler, and an engine cooler. But if the towing package comes with those items I won't.
Thanks for your help!

carter3 · May 2005

I own a 93 Aerostar with 246000 mi. It is has a 3.0 liter w\auto. I had to purchase this vehicle because my Taurus died last year. The Aerostar had a lot of problems due to owner not caring. I had to replace the coil and ignation module to get it running. Both heater cores leaked so I disconnected both and by passed the front one. Ford wants over $70 each for the heater hoses and $60 for the front heater core, forget that ! The Ford heater hoses and core have those stupid quick disconnects on them. I went to Autozone and purchased a front heater core w\o the connectors for $26 and installed regular 5\8 in heater hose, it works just great. Auto zone carries the rear heater core, so I removed the factory hoses that run under the vehicle and replace them with regular heater hoses. I had to use two plastic "t's " to splice in the rear heater . It is a hard job, but take your time, it works great at about 1\3 the cost of using the Ford parts. I also discovered that a starter for a Mazda truck with the same engine costs $20 less than one listed for the van and it is the same part!!! The rear spark plugs can be removed and installed by reaching over the top of the engine and using a 1 in extinsion, again it is hard so you have to take your time. You can find many Aerostars in the Pick and Pull yard near your home, so parts are out there. I noticed that nobody wants to replace the engine because Ford recommends that the front sub frame be unbolted and the body raised. I have seen how engines are pulled at the yard, it can be removed if you take off the hood, grill, radiator, bumper and other various parts. So my engine will be replaced this summer, my red neck friends will help. I also have changed my headlights to the sealed beam set up off of a '90 and used the solid amber front turn signal lens, the original plastic headlights were cloudy and looked terrible. got to go now I'll check this site in a few days. NBC.

kencinfl · May 2005

Heya, I have a '95 Aerostar, big 6 cycl, auto (naturally). Getting some hesitation under acceleration...seemingly more during day than at night, but intermittent and unpredictable. My little hand-held computer gives me codes 116 (Eng.Coolant Sensor), 157 (MAF sensor voltage too low), 158 (MAF sensor voltage too high) <--- very odd, I know they contradict but it read those to me. Now, about 6 months ago I had a terrible time with extreme hesitation...so much so I couldn't go over 10mph. This happened just after I changed the alternator so I though maybe I messed up the computer and it had to take it's time to re-learn the engine. Not so (I think). It was my MAF sensor just on top of the air intake piece coming off of the air filter. Discovered this by sheer circumstance so don't read into that brilliant diagnosis. Very accessible, but funky screws (just took a hacksaw and cut a notch so flathead screwdriver would work fine). I took out the sensor and cleaned it very delicately with carb cleaner. Worked great...drove great. But now it appears to have come back, a bit differently and possibly not quite the same...but I re-cleaned it (delicately) anyway with no results. It stumbles on acceleration but then catches up and runs fine until the next episode...the check engine light comes on but then it appears to correct itself...the light goes off and no problems...until next episode. And again, more so during day than night. Could it be my MAF sensor? ECT sensor? <--- day vs. night as mentioned above, or any Wires? Anger of the Gods? I replaced my fuel filter about 2 years ago...don't live in an extreme environment but anything is possible.
Next issue: My water temp guage fluctuates between the the letters of the word NORMAL...from O/R up to the beginning of the M and back down...almost as if my thermostat is opening and closing while I'm watching it...I recently put some stop leak in it because of a tiny little leak. Is the stop leak gummying up my thermostat? Any ideas?
With limited funds and limited experience with a voltmeter...how can I figure out what is wrong? This just suddenly appeared and put a cloud on my week.
Anyone who can help me on my stumbling problem and fluctuating temp guage problem...please respond.
Help me!

kencinfl · May 2005

Yes...sorry for reply delay as I just saw your post (mine is dated 5-10-05,,,first time posting). I had to replace my left front light and lens (fender-bender). No auto parts people sell the lens as it is a dealer part, with the normal heavy price. So I went to a junk yard (when I replaced my alternator) and they simply pulled me a left front lens (and the alternator). It was very easy to replace as you simply unscrew the chrome strip frame and, pull off the old lens, replace the bulb (common part at parts stores or walmart), install the new lens, and screw it all back in. The lens was less than $40 but the actual price may vary from yard to yard. Don't go dealer...go junk yard if you can.
If it is the wrap-around amber/clear light lens then go to a junk yard. If it is the actual little bulb you need then go to auro parts place...go to the bulbs section and look it up in the book they have...it is a very inexpensive and common part.
KenCinFL

carter3 · May 2005

First, the quality of the computer you used should be questioned, because you receive two different codes,I suggest that you have the computer scanned by some one with a more complex scanner . Some machinics may charge up to $40 to do so with out repairs. Clearing the codes can be a process of elimination since one sensor can and will effect others. Remember, to clear the codes, disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Also clean the battery cables ends, this can effect the computer. I also have to work on a budget, some times you have to bite the bullet and spend the money on quality parts and mechanics. I have learned to buy Ford or Napa electrical parts, I can't afford to be stranded because I wanted to save $ for the cheaper stuff. Also my Aerostar temp guage flexes like yours, it is normal because of the therostat opening.Watch the guage closely. As long as it stays in the norman range its ok. Please don't use stop leak for a perment fix, find the leak and take care of it properly, if you plan to keep the vehicle it is worth it.

carter3 · May 2005

I own a '93 w\ 3.0 litre and automatic, the vehicle has 248000 miles. The problem is that there is a transmission leak somewhere. I cleaned underneath real good, but I can not locate the leak.I removed the dust cover to the torque converter and checked both front and rear seal,both are clean and dry, some of the pan bolts were a little lose so I tightened them up,and drove it for a few days but still it leaks. I am sure that it is the trans because I have to add fluid every few days, all the other fluids are full and checked regularly. Where else can I check ? The trans was rebuilt about nine months ago. If anyone has a suggestins I would appricate it. I will check back in a few days. Thanks.

bajabob · May 2005

Had this problem before. Engine cutting out going uphill in high gear at 50 mph+. Warm or cold. Runs great when it is flat. Changed fuel filter, had fuel pump checked, new O2, new plugs, ran a ODB test and found nothing.
Last time this happened, I took the car to a mechanic he told me he only checked the fuel pump pressure. It was fine. The problem went away for 18 months for no known reason we can pinpoint. Now it is back.
If I turn off overdrive and put the gas pedal nearly to the floor to rev up the engine on the freeway, it runs fine. It almost seems like the engine is flooding.
Are there any sensors that sense whether the van is level? I can't tell if the car is flooding or starving.
A FORD Dealer mechanic wanted to change the plugs for $500.00. I had just changed them.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

plowboy34 · May 2005

Does anyone know where the expansion valve is on a 93 A/Star??

littleh · May 2005

I told that it's complicated to swap a RWD to an AWD because the sensors, transmission housing, computer chips (93 vs 94, 3.0 L vs 4.0 L). If I were you sale the 93 and get a rebuil AWD transmission (around $700) plus labor.
HIH,
Mariot

littleh · May 2005

Have you check the transmission fluid level?
Mariot

littleh · May 2005

Usually the side (fixed) windows leak. Apply an outdoor silicone will fix it.
HIH,
Mariot

littleh · May 2005

I was told the 93 to 96 are best years. If the engine doesn't burn oil, transmission isn't slip and no rust then it's a good investment. i would change all oils to Synthetic, Add a big Transmission cooler, In-Line filters . I hope yours is all power and dual AC. I paid my first 94 XLT AWD with 58K for $2400, the second 94 with same options with 156k for $1200 last April.
Happy shopping,
Mariot

littleh · May 2005

I would replace the thermostat (DO NOT USE NAPA) . I use Stant (165 degree), make sure you see the imprint "Made in USA" label. I was told that you not suppose to take the MAF apart to clean it. I would get a used MAF at the junk yard (same year).
HIH,
Mariot

steinbrecher · May 2005

Sounds like you got your money out of it. Rust could be from salt (winters are pretty harsh in Canada).

I heard the Freestars are kind of junky. My friends son worked for Visteon and had problems assembling them when they first came out.

Not too impressed with the quality of new cars in general.

sunshine8 · May 2005

hi I need my rack and pinion sterring replaced did you have to replace the whole thing or just repaired mine has a leak please let me know thank you

carter3 · May 2005

It seems that you have started to fix the problem by using the hit or miss process. Go back to the basics, air-fuel-spark. You say that you changed the fuel filter and checked the fuel pump pressure. Did you check the fuel pressure regulator? The pressure may be good at the shop at an idle, but under a load? The diaphram in the regulator may be rotted or have a pin hole. You replaced the plugs, good. Now go one step deeper, check the coil and see if you get a strong spark, how is the spark at the plugs ? The coil and or the ignation module could be weak . Also check the cap, rotor and plug wires. On the module, it should be mounted on the passanger side on the inner finder, or it is part of the distributer depending on the year model. Make sure that the module and coil are grounded properly. Use good quality parts such a Ford or Napa.Double check your work, make sure that everything is tight, clean and secure, no loose wires. I had a lot of problems when I first get my Aerostar and it took me a while to work out the bugs, it is a good vehicle,but you have to stay on top of the maintence, think preventive maintence. Don't use the saying-if it ain't broke,don't fix it...Let us know if any of this is helpful.

bgood1 · May 2005

I have a 1990 4L extended Aerostar van, can some one tell me for sure what this can pull in lbs, in the form of a travel trailer, different dealers, different answers ????? info much appreciated !!!!! BGood

wut4 · May 2005

The automatic hand brake adjuster needs to be "unloaded" (reset). How to do this is in any of the manuals for the Aerostar. It's best done with a helper with mechanical savvy. It can be done alone though. When you do the under car part, you will need to make a VERY strong pull to the rear of the hand brake cable where it joins the 2 rear brake cables just ahead of the frame cross brace in front of the rear axle. Then, while holding the cable back (takes lots of muscle) you will clamp a pair of vice grips onto the forward most visible part of the cable. That point is where the cable comes out of it's housing. The vice grips keep the cable in the full off position while you rest the hadle end. The details on what to do at the brake handle end are in the manual, as well as diagrams of the steps. Or, get the person who bled the brakes to do it (maybe for free) since this is the fix. What happens is that as the brakes wear, and you use the hand brake, the hand brake adjuster takes the slack out of the system. In time, and especially if your auto shoe adjusters are sticking (they all tend to), this hand brake adjuster has in fact made it impossible to close the yoke between the front and rear shoes to allow for the new full thickness brake shoe lining material. You probably had a bit of a snug fit putting the drums back on. This may not be the fix for your problem, but it is a common oversight. Good luck.

wut4 · May 2005

Try cleaning the two door tracks with a toothbrush and then spray them with silicone grease. The tracks are at the inner edge of the step (with door open) and in the side of the body (with door closed). GET IT CLEAN before you thoroughly lube it. That fixed my 92 with 194,000. ALSO, the side window leaks can be fixed with silicone adhesive - applied to make sure some gets between the rubber molding and the body. Both these "problems" are garden variety Aerostar aging. If only keeping any car going were this easy and inexpensive.

wut4 · May 2005

Message #287 has a possible fix for your sliding door (CLEAN and lube the tracks and the rollers). As for the wipers, take them off (they'll be parked on the plastic) and put them back on so they are "parked" about 1 1/2 to 2 inches up on the bottom edge of the glass (3.5 to 5.0CM). They will then sweep and park just fine.

wut4 · May 2005

The rattle may be the front stabilizer bar end links. These are about $20 US each at Ford and about $8 each at NAPA. Another item that rattles (with miles/age) is the harmonic balancer that is at the front yoke of the drive shaft,]. This iron ring can split and then pull loose from it's rubber mount and flap about on slower bumpy stretches of road. Muffler and catalytic converter clamps are another possibility. Good luck.

dshaull · May 2005

My brother and I just changed the rear axle assembly on my 92 Aerostar because it was making an awful noise. The replacement parts came from a junked van (not sure of the year). My van was equipped with ABS but the "new parts" were not. Once we got it all back together the speedometer and cruise no longer work.

Any thought on how to get the speedometer working again?

Thanks

jwoll57 · May 2005

I replaced the AC compressor (single unit only), evaporator drier and orifice on my 3.0 L. System was not leaking but after 132,000 miles the old compressor gave out (S. Texas weather too), My question is how cold is cold? I measured the maximum cold from the vent at 47 degrees with a thermometer. Normal cold at about 58. Outside temperature at about 89 degrees. Seems a little slow to cycle. Does anyone know the specs on
the a/c for this model.What should air temp be at the vent? The compressor is a remanufactured part from Carquest. Is there a more powerful compressor they could have used? I paid a pretty penny for this job so I want to make sure they got it right while the fix is still under warranty.

jwoll57 · May 2005

I regularly pull a 2500 lb. camper with a 3.0 L aerostar. That is with 6 passengers and fully loaded. Works well on the flat but uphill climbs you will be leading the parade, brother.

jwoll

mtyre · June 2005

We bought a used 94 Aerostar van recently to replace the 89 Aerostar van we had that had 260,000 miles on it (the transmission was going). When we put in a new battery it messed up the time on the clock, and we don't have the book with the instructions. The clock is part of the radio and there aren't any buttons on it that say anything about setting the time.

Anyone know what combination of buttons to use to set the time?

bajabob · June 2005

Thanks for the advice. The pressure regulator may be bad. It is starting to look that way.

Over the past seven years, I have kept my Aerostar in near new condition. Even replaced the axles and rebuilt the 8.5 differential. Installed two new Bosch O2 sensors, EGR valve, and many sensors before I traveled in it for two years. Installed 3/4 ton air shocks and pulled a small trailer through BAJA for over a year. The van runs great. Just seems starved for gas going up hill at 60 mph. In just the past few days it has started to starve for gas at idle so I am going to my friend's shop and put it on a dynotuner and a OBD II computer.

Once again thanks for the input.

carter3 · June 2005

I own a '93 w\ auto, 3.0litre with 250000 on the odometer, last month I installed a set of Bosch platinum 2 plugs. Since then the gas mileage turn bad. Before the Bosch plugs I was getting 21-22mpg. The Bosch plugs cut the mpg to 16-18. I replaced them with Motorcraft plugs and the mpg jumped up to 22-23. I it was not fun to replace them, but it can be done. The van still runs great and burns no oil, so maybe I'll get two more years out of it. More later on

gblackman · June 2005

Probably the same problem I had with my 93, though yours sounds more severe. The big stationary glass window seals can develop leaks around the rubber seals and run invisibly behind the interior trim into the floor. Fortunately, the repair is relatively simple. The interior trim on the offending window must come off. The glass itself is held in with nuts securing studs attached to the rubber seal. As all of mine were loose, I first tried just tightening them, but without success. You;ll probably have to remove the window to re-seal it. Just remove the nuts and press the glass out from the inside. Ford uses some sort of black "Zackempucky" as a sealer between the glass and metal. I did not try to remove this, just ran a bead of silicone caulk on the metal and reinstalled. No more leaks!

gblackman · June 2005

Don't know anything about the 4WD version, but my '93 2WD has been outstanding! 184,000 on it, owned for eight years now with no problems to speak of. I would advise buying a good trans cooler if you plan to do much towing. Soon after puchase, had problems with trans fluid everywhere when I would push the van while towing my 2200 lb boat at interstate speed. Trans never acted up, just fluid covering the entire bottom of the van, even up the tailgate, and the front of the boat! Took it in to the shop who insisted the trans had failed, but I did not believe as it was working perfectly otherwise. Finially found someone who knew enough or was honest enough to help. As the fluid was obviously scorched, he related that as the fluid heated it had expanded out an atmospheric vent on the trans and messed itself. Flushed the trans, cooler, and lines, changed the filter and added a large trans cooler in front of the condensor, behind the existing external trans cooler. No more problem in eight years and 80,000 miles, never did rebuild the trans and still works great. Have since towed cars through Smoky mountains without issue! Mine is only a 3.0L with highway gears and no towing package. Occasionally the factory springs would sag a little under load, so I added air shocks (Monroe MaxAir, Advance Auto Parts) which helped a lot. Good luck!

gblackman · June 2005

I am a professional HVAC service tech. "Black Death" is a term someone coined to describe the after-effects of a catastrophic compressor failure. The metal particulate released into the refrigerant stream and oil when the compressor self-destructs is circulated into the system by the pressure that the compressor created before it died. The black residue gets into everything it can before the pressures equalize and stops wherever it is. This can sometimes be more severe than others, depending on how much pressure differential was up when it died, the higher the pressure, the more extensive the contamination. This is not exclusive to Aerostars or even Fords. Most compressor manufacturers or rebuilders of all brands will not honor their warranty unless precautions are taken to remove all contamination, for if not removed, it will take out your new compressor as well. They usually insist on flushing of all components, replacement of the flow control orifice, and the addition of an in-line filter, preferably in the liquid line ahead of the orifice. Your tech will have to assume the worst and flush and clean everything. Unfortunately, on vans with rear A/C, flushing the long lines and second evaporator is essentially like cleaning up two passenger car systems and is very time consuming, though $2000 for a compressor changeout and system cleanup seems abusive. Shop around, but stay away from the "cheap fix". A compressor swap may work for a while, but will soon fail if precautions aren't taken.

Insidentally, should you decide to repair, I suggest that you look a little deeper into why it failed in the first place. The Ford compressor of this vintage has a bad rep for failure, but my experience has shown them very dependable. My '93 has 184,000 miles on it, still running R12. The system has not been open since '98 when I replaced a leaking O ring. From what I've read from others, I surmise that inadequate air flow accross the condensor (in front of radiator) is more likely the problem. Low air flow results in increased head pressures that the compressor has to overcome and can significantly shorten it's life. Check to see that the cavity between the radiator and condensor is still sealed. Is the rubber seal between the radiator and crossmember still there? Is the gap between the radiator and condensor still seaked underneath? If these are missing, a trip to Home Depot or such for a window A/C weatherstrip kit will get you some square foam strips with which to seal the openings. Also, invest in a new fan clutch. I was amazed at the difference when I replaced mine. Even though I was experiencing no real engine cooling problems at the time, the A/C output was significantly better, especially around town. Good luck!

gblackman · June 2005

Very possbily is the MAF sensor causing the problem. My congratulations on finding these can often be cleaned instead of replaced, but sounds like you may be ready for a new one. The day/night thing can also be related to this. The purpose of the MAF is to relate to the computer just how much oxygen is in the air at the moment. Colder air is dense and has more oxygen, warm air has less. The MAF is one of the ways we can get away without the old carbuetor choke which would restrict the amount of air (and oxygen) until the engine warmed up. To a lesser extent, you will find the same thing happening with cool night air vs. a warm (or hot) day.

The ECT code is probably just computer telling you that it has seen the coolant temperature outside the range it was expecting. You already told me that your thermostat is acting up. Probably not the stop leak but who knows? Spend a couple of bucks and get a new one. Sounds like you're right on target with your diagnosis, Good luck!

gblackman · June 2005

Check the trans cooler, could be leaking into the radiator.

gblackman · June 2005

My 93 has GVWR for different engine/axle combinations on the tire pressure chart on the front door post.

gblackman · June 2005

Does anybody know how to disconnect the factory heater hose quick connects at the heater core? I have the special tool "borrowed" from Autozone, but I can't even see the things buried on my '93 under all the other hoses. Looking at the tool doesn't give me a clue as to how they are made....

bytesnooper · June 2005

I have a 1992 3.0 aerostar. 90k miles. Was running great until about two months ago. When in the morning I would start it an it would surge from stalling to idle. If I accelerated for 10 seconds it would run fine the rest of the day. Last Sunday i started it
It stalled out and wouldnt start. It starts now but the engine runs really
Rich. Black smoke out the exhaust. Does anyone know if there is a common?
Problem like this out there, that usually turns out to be the oxygen sensor or throttle position sensor etc. Like to norrow it down if possible thanks

bytesnooper · June 2005

I have a 1992 xl . starts then runs rich. black smoke coming out of the exhaust then
stalls. mech looked at it,hooked up a computer but couldn't determine what was
causing the problem. It was developing this problem for two months. when I started
it, the engine would surge from almost stalling to idle. If i gave it gas for 10 seconds
it would run great the rest of the day. Last sunday it stalled after I started in the
morning and now runs bad with black smoke and will not Idle. I know
its one on the sensors just don't know which one. Have you had any engine
problems like this. Need to figure out best place to start. the van only
has 90k on it. thanks for any info

platino · June 2005

Hi,

i have found my Ford Aerostar XLT (1987 - 3.0). in addition looks for I spare parts (steering wheel ect.) and accessories around the car to adorn know someone addresses of the accessory trade. does someone have information to a aerostar bodykit for me (source of supply)?

-> like this:

http://www.arcor.de/palb/alben/30/242530/1024_3333366532353562.jpg
http://www.arcor.de/palb/alben/30/242530/1024_6366663438616134.jpg

Thank you!

Greeting Peter

aerofast · June 2005

i own a 1992 ford aerostar. the side sliding door is jammed and i need to remove it in order to fix the broken handle. does anyone know how to get the door open and off? thanks so much

gdmurf · June 2005

I have a 93 Aerostar XLT minivan. Bought used with a trailer hitch. Want to start towing and looked under the rear end for the wiring. Notice that it appeared to have a dealer/factory installed tow package, wiring harness built in. Two plugs, one with four wires and one with two wires allready wired up and just sitting there. I'm looking for the jumper/cable that will connect into these existing plugs that will allow me to tow a trailer. Anyone have any info? One dealer told me some part numbers to look for are F29Z, 13A, or 576A. These mean anything to anyone? I'd like to avoid having to splice into the existing wires and running all new cables.

TIA,
Glenn

colinp · June 2005

On my 92 as I did not have a tool I had to destroy them to get them off. If you look at the smaller connectors on the hoses just above the engine where they connect to the metal pipes you will see the plastic clips that hold the connector in place. Squeezing these whit plastic clips releases the hose. Destroying the connector at the core means you now have a destroyed very expensive to replace 'Y' hose. Read on.

At the heater core they were a knuckle busting process, very hard to get to but not impossible after other stuff is moved out of the way. As I could not reach them to properly disconnect them I broke / cut them to get them off. I replaced the 'Y' hoses most cheaply by buying a straight hose from the parts store with the large quick disconnect for the heater core end and making up a 'new' 'Y' hose by using 3 pieces of straight hose connected by a commercially available in-line 'Y' connector and hose clips from the parts store. I cut up the old 'Y' hose and re-used the piece with the smaller connector that connects to the metal pipes above the engine. Best to leave that end in place on the engine so as to not disturb the seal.

Good luck!

Ford Aerostar

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