Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Aerostar

1456810

Comments

  • kpemrkpemr Member Posts: 1
    I own one as well. Both of my lights have been on for over 4 years and my wilfe got suckered three times into repairing the ABS and brakes when there was no repair to be performed. I put my foot down and informed all mechanics and technicians to not address those lights since I have a trail of repair evidence with no mechanical problems noted. Next step is to pull the fuse!
  • iawiaiawia Member Posts: 3
    I own a 91 XLT 4.0L and have been driving it with the lights on for about 2.5 years with no problems. Would like to either fix and shut off the lights, or disconnect. Any suggestions?
  • iawiaiawia Member Posts: 3
    I have a ripped CV boot on the front driver's side. Can anyone who has done this tell me how difficult this is or what is involved? Can't find anything in Chiltons on it.
  • iawiaiawia Member Posts: 3
    I'm leaking transmission fluid from my shifter seal (according to oil change guys). Can anyone tell me how difficult this is to replace and what's involved? I can't find any reference to this in Chiltons.
  • aerostarloveraerostarlover Member Posts: 1
    Okay, I have read every message regarding tranny fluid leaks and seem to have a unique one. While driving in the city, the van is fine. However, when I go on longer trips, over 20 miles or so, I get transmission fluid on my rear window and have to add fluid. Anyone have any idea on this one? It's a '93 extended, 2wd w/ 3.0lt engine. As I said, normal driving in the city is fine, it only leaks when I go on long trips. I assume it has something to do with it heating up since it doesn't get too hot in the city.
    I'd appreciate any help on this.
    Thanks
  • littlehlittleh Member Posts: 21
    I suggest you check and replace the PCV and the modulator. Also inspect the tranmission cooler to see any leak or clogged line. If changing the modulator fix the problem then change tranny fluid and it's recommend to have an aux. tranny cooler, the biggest the car can take.
    HIH
  • bfwatkinsbfwatkins Member Posts: 1
    Just picked up a 1995 Aerostar and while driving in the rain today I come to find the wipers shut off when I have the left turn signal on. Anyone have an idea on what to do to fix this?

    Thanks
  • kearlmskearlms Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1989 Ford Aerostar. The vehicle seems to heat up fine but I am not getting hot air from the heater when I turn it on to heat up the cab. The temperature shows just above cold. Never gets close to the middle (warm) area on the dash. I have run this thing for 500 miles with it not warming the heater up good enough to take off the chill. I have discussed this with many people and they tell me to get a 140 to 160 degree thermostat and put it in. I beleave the orriginal is a 195 degree. I am just worried that if I put in a different thermostat that I may have overheating issues. Please help!!

    Thanks
  • dougd7dougd7 Member Posts: 71
    Sounds like the heater core may be partially clogged. I had a similar issue on my '93. Solved it by flushing the cooling system using Prestone SuperFlush. Had good heat after flushing. :)
  • kc135kc135 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. It was quickly solved by replacing the thermostat! The 195 will keep the engine at the designed temp. The colder thermostats will only effect the operating temp of the engine. They have veery little to do to providing HOT air from the heater core. A reverse flush of the system would be also a good idea and new coolant.
    Hope this helps.
  • littlehlittleh Member Posts: 21
    After warm up, how high is your temp gauge show?
    You might need a new thermostat (use Motorcraft, don't use NAPA or oversea makes)
    Depend on where your location, you can use 185 degree 'stat in a warmer area (So CA...) but I wouldn't go below it. BTW, the bigger the number, the hotter the engine will run. Be careful, the Aerostar is not happy when it 's overheated
    As kc135 said, you probably need to perform a reverse flush.
    HIH
  • sir2sir2 Member Posts: 1
    hello , i'm new here and have a 92 areostar van v-6 automatic with o/d . my problem is that the cruise control doesn't work sometimes . i can keep pushing the button continually for quite a while ( sometimes 10 minutes, etc. and eventually it will start working but i have also noticed it "seems" when i hit some rough pot holes and while pushing the cruise control button it will all of a sudden start working ( coincidence ?) i am wondering if maybe theirs a loose connection of the cruise control on the engine ?? anyone know of any fix for this ?? and if so explain what i should be looking for (describe the wiring or part ) . any help on this would be appreciated , thanks . :D
  • littlehlittleh Member Posts: 21
    IMO it's the best minivan at that era. What is size of engine & tranny?
    If the car doesn't burn any oil and at a reasonable price, it would be a good used car.
    Here what I would do:
    Replace Spark plugs & Cable (Use Motorcraft or Autolite only, double platinum is doctor order).
    Changing O2 sensor, PCV, Airfilter and flush then oil change (Motorcarft oil filter or Puro prerrable, No Frams) I use Aimsoil
    Flush the radiator and replace the fluid as well as a new thermostat (Use US makes only: Motorcraft or Stan. No NAPA. If you live in Miami or warmer area, consider using 185 degree 'stat from Stan and add a bottle of Wetter Water))
    Add a big aux. tranny cooler (mount in the front of the steering cooler. Don't forget the inline filter. Switch to Synthetic fluid (I use Aimsoil also)
    Flush and replace the PS system with synthetic ATF and add In-line filter as well.
    Change all axle, transfercase (if it's a AWD) oil to Synthetic gear oil. Once again, Aimsoil has served mine well.
    You might also need new shocks & Front Brake rotors and pads, BTW check the front axles also (If it's a AWD)
    For bell & pulley, pop the hood up and inspect them and have a mech. to look at the timing chain.
    Of course you have to make sure all accessories are in good working condition.
    I have seen A-stars have over 300k and still run good.
  • littlehlittleh Member Posts: 21
    I would check to see if there is any lag of the cc chain which connect to the throtle.
    HIH
  • alexcisalexcis Member Posts: 1
    Hi did you ever get door fixed?
    I'm having a similar problem door was side swiped and them pulled out before I bought it
    Now the door does not close completely
    The latch area is ok, but the other side doesn't close
    I think i need to remove door to fix inner latch opposite of door handle
    I don't know much about cars so I hope you understand my ??? :confuse:
  • shelbysueshelbysue Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a 95 Aerostar. It is in great shape. Just one issue - It kicks into passing gear much too early. Then I noticed there is actually a sensor connector ( in the wiring harness) not plugged into anything. It is near the throttle body, but there is a sensor attached and connected to that. I have looked everywhere and can't find where I could plug this in.

    Tell me what I can tell you to help me figure this out!
  • shelbysueshelbysue Member Posts: 2
    I have front and rear heater/air. ( 95 Aerostar ) There is a plastic connector near the firewall which has 4 ports. It appears to be a control for water flow to the heater(s). It is broken, but I can't get the auto parts store to look it up because they can't figure out what to call it.

    Any thoughts that might jog their minds?
  • harminoffharminoff Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm really curious whether you came to any conclusions about this as I have the exact same problem with my '89 Aerostar. Actually I don't think I have any vents in the rear so the second part doesn't apply but otherwise, I hear the blower but nothing comes out aside from a bit of air from the defrost vents. I don't seem to get any real heat or cold either though. Any ideas?
  • tbellmoretbellmore Member Posts: 4
    i had the same problem . it's called a valve assembly, ford calls it a valve assembly i tried to order one from napa auto parts but it wasn't the right one the ford part # is yg-370 with another number under it f69z 18495 aa . good luck the proper part i found was only available at the ford dealer.
  • tbellmoretbellmore Member Posts: 4
    you probably have a broken wire in the lever that has the wiper switch, you'll have to take apart the cover on the steering colum and check for the wire. it could be a broken conductor in the insulation.
  • tbellmoretbellmore Member Posts: 4
    i have a 97 aerostar and have owned it since it was new i love the van it has 212,000 km on it and with regular maintenance i hope to have it another 8 years. i do all my own repairs so that helps keep costs down , but it's mostly regular wear and tear. i was sorry that ford discontinued them !
  • degfish2359degfish2359 Member Posts: 1
    the 89 van has a digtal dash, as you know it shows just about everything.gas,oil,speed ect.How do you fix this when it goes out is there a relay are do you have to get another dash?headlights work but inside is gone
  • tbellmoretbellmore Member Posts: 4
    the problem of the engine stalling or surging is most likely caused by the IAC (intake air controller ) located on the throttle body . it should be either serviced or replaced , i had the same problem the dealer said $300.00 to replace it
    , and clean the back of the throttle plate. i just bought some throttle body cleaner took it off and cleaned it it's a common problem at 90,000 miles mine acted up at 130,00 kilometers. good luck
  • rcritesrcrites Member Posts: 1
    On my '89 Aerostar I have the rear heater / ac and don't have a problem with the rear unit. The front unit like harminoff's does not provide any air movement when I turn the temp to warmer. On the cool side it will move some air, but forget the defroster and warm / hot air.
    Have had the core replaced and still no luck.
    Think someone has routed the cables incorrectly, but can not find anyone who knows and of course Ford Co. wants a fortune to "check it out". Anyone have any ideas as where to check? Am wheelchaired so can't do too much on my own any more.
    Thanks,
    Randy
  • wparker2wparker2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Aerostar with the non-digital dash. Several of the warning lights do not work. (Brake, door ajar). I am assuming a burned out bulb. How do you access these bulbs to change them?
  • jmustatiajmustatia Member Posts: 2
    This message is to, both Harminoff and Randy...
    May I suggest that you check your blower housings,
    the air might be blowing back into the engine compartment
    through the foam seal on top of the housing (very visible from the front of the van on the passenger side).
    Once I fixed mine, the problem for me stopped!. If it doesn't work for you, then the problem is under the dash...
    Good luck.
    Jeff
  • jmustatiajmustatia Member Posts: 2
    removing six or eight screws on the top of the dash (you will need a stubby screwdriver philips #2) for the screws on the top of the dash cover near the front by the window
    "don't forget the ones on the bottom or it won't come off" then the cover can be pulled off easily you will now see a few more screws to the panel its-self once you do that the gauges can be rolled forwards carefully it will only go so far, but you can twist out the cam lock bulbs ane replace them...
    Jeff
  • dinobelairdinobelair Member Posts: 1
    I am having same problems with my 85 Aerostar. I have used every thermostat available, put in new cores,radiator, fan clutch. You name it I replaced it. I get heat when it is warm outside , but not when it's cold. Perhaps it is drawing too much cold air in from outside?
  • skater2skater2 Member Posts: 1
    ABOVE ALL. GET YOUR TRANNY SERVICED. SOUNDS LIKE A PLUGGED FILTER AND WHEN FLUID WARMS UP, IT PASSES THROUGH FILTER EASY BUT COLD AND THICK, NO PASS THRU.
  • vak222vak222 Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    92 aerostar 3.0 ,a/t ,160k,Car starts and idles fine once i drive it about 3-4 blocks it stalls and does not start for at least 5-10 minutes.I can start it then and drive off for another3 blocks needless to say i dont work 3 blocks from home, i wish i did i wouldnt be asking you this question.
    When it did stall once i checked for spark and it did have spark. i also checked and heard the fuel pump kick on when i turned the key at that time .Any ideas?
    Thanks
  • ny_attitude69ny_attitude69 Member Posts: 4
    I also have a 1995..I noticed the same thing at the front of the motor..It has 2 wires with a tan plastic connector on the end...I think its a test point of somekind.....**CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE THE A/C RELAYS ARE LOCATED?
  • ny_attitude69ny_attitude69 Member Posts: 4
    Can anyone tell me where the A/C relays are? I see 4 in a small block behind the batt..Everything on the vans AC has been replaced and the system is holding freon, but will not come on..any ideas?? :shades:
  • awvickersawvickers Member Posts: 3
    Your statement was very informative and interesting to me. Thank you for sharing the knowledge.

    I have a 1993 ford aerostar. I was thinking about replacing the sparkplugs in it myself. Could you give me some advice on how I can access all six(6) plugs?
  • pissedareostarpissedareostar Member Posts: 1
    I was driving my "93" Ford Aerostar Van one day when I stopped at a red light. I pressed the gas and the car started chugging, wouldn't give me any type of thrust. When I finally got through the intersection and stopped the vehicle, there was a path of transmission fluid left on the ground from the light to where I stopped. When I looked under the vehicle there was a puddle of tranny fluid. Do you have any suggestions?
  • awvickersawvickers Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1993 ford aerostar (3.0L). I was thinking about replacing the sparkplugs in it myself. Could you give me some advice on how I can access all six(6) plugs?

    Also, there is a problem with the interior heat. I recently had the heater coil, water pump and the thermostat replaced. Before those items malfunction the interior heat worked. Now only cold air blows out.

    Any advice on the above problems?
  • unruhunruh Member Posts: 1
    I pulled the front blower motor today. Pull it straight out against the condenser, then when the fan 'clears' the housing, pull the fan towards the front of the van. Exxtremly tight squeeze, but luckily everthing in the rea moves a bit. I found lots of leaves packed against the heater core. Vacuumed the box out. Get more air, but still hasn't cured my initial problem. Can't find the flapper control to direct air tp the vents or defroster. Suspect a vacuum line leak.
  • mathusalummathusalum Member Posts: 5
    I've got a 91 Aerostar that I simply Love. The Transfer case went out a couple years ago, and I parked it. The battery never went down, and it started right up after the two years. However, when it started, the dash gauge indicators (Its digital) goes through each one of them flashing on and off one at a time. The Van ran just fine though and I thought it was some sequence the computer was going through. I replaced the transfer case (the flashing continued) and the van ran just fine. Then after about 50 miles, it sorta just chugged, coughed, sputtered, then just died. Now it won't start at all. Any suggestions? Thanks! :cry:
  • strepenstrepen Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 areostar van, It ran perfect before I bought a new car, so I let it sit for about 3 months them mysteriously stopped running, I was told it was bad gas so I WAS WONDERING IF THERE WAS A GAS DRAIN ON THE GAS TANK??? IF NOT HOW WOULD I DRAIN IT???

    thnx alot for the help,
  • bangsongbangsong Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I just bought a '94 Aerostar and a rat had apparently made a nest in the air filter compartment (discovered when I went to change it) and in the blower motor and heater core area. I had to take it all apart to clean it out (lots of weeds and straw etc.) and after re assembling it I now have no low, medium, or higher medium, but only the highest setting on the fan works now. What did I do wrong? Also the rat had chewed through both of the vacuum hoses which is probably why the air only blows up through the defrost vents regardless where you turn the switch. I can take that in to get it fixed I guess but I'd at least like to get it working like it was before I cleaned it, if possible. Any suggestions? Thank you.
  • heneryhenery Member Posts: 2
    My problem is close to the same as bangsong's #405, except no rat:

    '99 GMC Sierra 1500. Blower/fan does not come on for first two settings, then comes on for settings 3,4, and 5. Pain to have to keep turning it on and off when it gets too warm in the truck. Any suggestions?
  • bangsongbangsong Member Posts: 3
    Hi Henery,
    This is Bangsong, who had the rat problem and the no lower settings on the blower.. I have good news. I was able to fix it myself once a guy at the shop pointed me in the right direction. He showed me the part that was responsible for the various settings on the motor. He then let me go without charge to the auto parts store for a new part. I was unable to obtain the part at three different stores so I got an idea. I removed the part myself from the fire wall (two screws)and jumped around passed the offending resistor and it worked. Look for the wires leading from the blower motor to a box on the fire wall. If you remove that box there should be various sized springs on the under side of it. If you see a more conventional looking resistor among them, try jumping past it (wire from one side to the other to complete it's path around it) and see what happens. Or if you just don't want to do that, you can unplug that part and replace the whole thing and that should solve your problem.
    Hope it works,
    Bangsong
  • bangsongbangsong Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I'm wondering if when your parts were replaced, a vacuum hose may have either not been hooked back up correctly or not at all or was damaged. Those hoses control the valves that open and close the water into your heater core that the blower blows through to bring heat into the vehicle. If the vacuum hoses are installed incorrectly or are compromised, you will not open the valve to let hot water into your heater core and therefore no heat. The vacuum hoses are small, about 1/8 inch thick or so and if you need to replace any section of them, clear plastic tubing at the hardware store works great. Get the size that will tightly fit over the existing hose and complete the circuit. They will usually be color coded to keep from becoming hooked up wrong so check that as well.

    Hope that helps,
    Bangsong
  • barepocketsbarepockets Member Posts: 1
    I am looking for a center consule with decent cup holders not those shallow type your cups turnover at every turn
  • littlehlittleh Member Posts: 21
    If you have access to a lift, it's much eaier for yout back. Otherwise jack the car up and let it sit on stands. Make sure you have Ford or Autolite double platinum plugs plus some copper anti-seize (for the plug threads). It's a good idea to change the cable at this time too. (Use Motorcraft or Autolite only). Remove the front wheels and the well cover (located inside your 'star; between the driver & pasenger seat, right on the floor, below the radio). You sgould have enough room to change the all plugs. Access from underneath. About your heater problem, could the mechanic mistakenly connect the in to out and the out to the in? Look at another 'star to compare the hoses? If he installed the thermostat correctly? You can get a Chilton book to see if it hook up correct?
    HIH,
    littleh
  • littlehlittleh Member Posts: 21
    I would check the pressure of the fuel line. Could the fuel filter dirty and block the stream? Or maybe the Pump & Pum filter is weak, dirty? Or the Fuel injection system has some blockade? Go to the Aerostar section of the Ford Truck Enthusiasts to get other users' opinion.
    HIH,
    littleh
  • jrfclarkjrfclark Member Posts: 1
    Greetings,
    I have a 95 Ford Aerostar, that started to miss, choke, slight backfire, hesitates, at acceleration. I changed the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor button, still does the same thing, so I read up on the emissions, find out that it could be the MAP sensor, Fine. I go out to get one, the manual says its located on the fire wall, but WHERE!!!
    HELP, DESPERATE.
    Thanks
    Frank
  • dganzeldganzel Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91 Aerostar that runs great, my only problem is the actul steering wheel is leaking a thick black grease. It gets all over your hands when I drive. Anyone have any suggestions on what this might be or how to fix it?
  • leendertleendert Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem: My signallights, blowerfans, daytime running lights, rear defroster and backuplights all quit working at once. I checked and replaced all the fuses to no avail. Could this be a lose connection or some other thing.
    Help please.
  • aeroman1aeroman1 Member Posts: 6
    Sounds like you have a corroded, burnt wire or bad terminal connection on the wiring harness!
    Good luck finding it, what will pay you; if you decide to have a go yourself ,is to get a good wiring diagram.

    Steve :)
  • aeroman1aeroman1 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 95 3L a/c Aerostar with 250,000 Kms on it. For a couple of years my van has been using coolant (albeit very slowly). It holds pressure in the radiator etc, but is definately using more than it should from simple blow through the radiator cap.
    Just recently it has been getting worse,I put in some Barrs stop leak to see if that would plug up a pinhole leak but it made no difference.I'm thinking now a core plug or a worn water pump seal.There is evidence of a leak on the left side of the rad (looking from the front) however it never does it when the car is idling !

    Any ideas or similar problems with a solution?

    Steve :confuse:
This discussion has been closed.