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Ford Aerostar
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Comments
I'd appreciate any help on this.
Thanks
HIH
Thanks
Thanks
Hope this helps.
You might need a new thermostat (use Motorcraft, don't use NAPA or oversea makes)
Depend on where your location, you can use 185 degree 'stat in a warmer area (So CA...) but I wouldn't go below it. BTW, the bigger the number, the hotter the engine will run. Be careful, the Aerostar is not happy when it 's overheated
As kc135 said, you probably need to perform a reverse flush.
HIH
If the car doesn't burn any oil and at a reasonable price, it would be a good used car.
Here what I would do:
Replace Spark plugs & Cable (Use Motorcraft or Autolite only, double platinum is doctor order).
Changing O2 sensor, PCV, Airfilter and flush then oil change (Motorcarft oil filter or Puro prerrable, No Frams) I use Aimsoil
Flush the radiator and replace the fluid as well as a new thermostat (Use US makes only: Motorcraft or Stan. No NAPA. If you live in Miami or warmer area, consider using 185 degree 'stat from Stan and add a bottle of Wetter Water))
Add a big aux. tranny cooler (mount in the front of the steering cooler. Don't forget the inline filter. Switch to Synthetic fluid (I use Aimsoil also)
Flush and replace the PS system with synthetic ATF and add In-line filter as well.
Change all axle, transfercase (if it's a AWD) oil to Synthetic gear oil. Once again, Aimsoil has served mine well.
You might also need new shocks & Front Brake rotors and pads, BTW check the front axles also (If it's a AWD)
For bell & pulley, pop the hood up and inspect them and have a mech. to look at the timing chain.
Of course you have to make sure all accessories are in good working condition.
I have seen A-stars have over 300k and still run good.
HIH
I'm having a similar problem door was side swiped and them pulled out before I bought it
Now the door does not close completely
The latch area is ok, but the other side doesn't close
I think i need to remove door to fix inner latch opposite of door handle
I don't know much about cars so I hope you understand my ??? :confuse:
Tell me what I can tell you to help me figure this out!
Any thoughts that might jog their minds?
, and clean the back of the throttle plate. i just bought some throttle body cleaner took it off and cleaned it it's a common problem at 90,000 miles mine acted up at 130,00 kilometers. good luck
Have had the core replaced and still no luck.
Think someone has routed the cables incorrectly, but can not find anyone who knows and of course Ford Co. wants a fortune to "check it out". Anyone have any ideas as where to check? Am wheelchaired so can't do too much on my own any more.
Thanks,
Randy
May I suggest that you check your blower housings,
the air might be blowing back into the engine compartment
through the foam seal on top of the housing (very visible from the front of the van on the passenger side).
Once I fixed mine, the problem for me stopped!. If it doesn't work for you, then the problem is under the dash...
Good luck.
Jeff
"don't forget the ones on the bottom or it won't come off" then the cover can be pulled off easily you will now see a few more screws to the panel its-self once you do that the gauges can be rolled forwards carefully it will only go so far, but you can twist out the cam lock bulbs ane replace them...
Jeff
92 aerostar 3.0 ,a/t ,160k,Car starts and idles fine once i drive it about 3-4 blocks it stalls and does not start for at least 5-10 minutes.I can start it then and drive off for another3 blocks needless to say i dont work 3 blocks from home, i wish i did i wouldnt be asking you this question.
When it did stall once i checked for spark and it did have spark. i also checked and heard the fuel pump kick on when i turned the key at that time .Any ideas?
Thanks
I have a 1993 ford aerostar. I was thinking about replacing the sparkplugs in it myself. Could you give me some advice on how I can access all six(6) plugs?
Also, there is a problem with the interior heat. I recently had the heater coil, water pump and the thermostat replaced. Before those items malfunction the interior heat worked. Now only cold air blows out.
Any advice on the above problems?
thnx alot for the help,
I just bought a '94 Aerostar and a rat had apparently made a nest in the air filter compartment (discovered when I went to change it) and in the blower motor and heater core area. I had to take it all apart to clean it out (lots of weeds and straw etc.) and after re assembling it I now have no low, medium, or higher medium, but only the highest setting on the fan works now. What did I do wrong? Also the rat had chewed through both of the vacuum hoses which is probably why the air only blows up through the defrost vents regardless where you turn the switch. I can take that in to get it fixed I guess but I'd at least like to get it working like it was before I cleaned it, if possible. Any suggestions? Thank you.
'99 GMC Sierra 1500. Blower/fan does not come on for first two settings, then comes on for settings 3,4, and 5. Pain to have to keep turning it on and off when it gets too warm in the truck. Any suggestions?
This is Bangsong, who had the rat problem and the no lower settings on the blower.. I have good news. I was able to fix it myself once a guy at the shop pointed me in the right direction. He showed me the part that was responsible for the various settings on the motor. He then let me go without charge to the auto parts store for a new part. I was unable to obtain the part at three different stores so I got an idea. I removed the part myself from the fire wall (two screws)and jumped around passed the offending resistor and it worked. Look for the wires leading from the blower motor to a box on the fire wall. If you remove that box there should be various sized springs on the under side of it. If you see a more conventional looking resistor among them, try jumping past it (wire from one side to the other to complete it's path around it) and see what happens. Or if you just don't want to do that, you can unplug that part and replace the whole thing and that should solve your problem.
Hope it works,
Bangsong
I'm wondering if when your parts were replaced, a vacuum hose may have either not been hooked back up correctly or not at all or was damaged. Those hoses control the valves that open and close the water into your heater core that the blower blows through to bring heat into the vehicle. If the vacuum hoses are installed incorrectly or are compromised, you will not open the valve to let hot water into your heater core and therefore no heat. The vacuum hoses are small, about 1/8 inch thick or so and if you need to replace any section of them, clear plastic tubing at the hardware store works great. Get the size that will tightly fit over the existing hose and complete the circuit. They will usually be color coded to keep from becoming hooked up wrong so check that as well.
Hope that helps,
Bangsong
HIH,
littleh
HIH,
littleh
I have a 95 Ford Aerostar, that started to miss, choke, slight backfire, hesitates, at acceleration. I changed the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor button, still does the same thing, so I read up on the emissions, find out that it could be the MAP sensor, Fine. I go out to get one, the manual says its located on the fire wall, but WHERE!!!
HELP, DESPERATE.
Thanks
Frank
Help please.
Good luck finding it, what will pay you; if you decide to have a go yourself ,is to get a good wiring diagram.
Steve
Just recently it has been getting worse,I put in some Barrs stop leak to see if that would plug up a pinhole leak but it made no difference.I'm thinking now a core plug or a worn water pump seal.There is evidence of a leak on the left side of the rad (looking from the front) however it never does it when the car is idling !
Any ideas or similar problems with a solution?
Steve :confuse: