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The details:
--'02 EB Exp.
--immaculate shape (no dings, cracks, scratches, glass problems, etc)
--just under 30K miles (i.e., still in warranty)
--all the bells and whistles (e.g., 6 disk CD, cassette, entertainment package, reverse sensor, second row airbags, homelink, luggage rack, etc, etc, etc)
--tires are probably at about 50%
--located in Houston, TX
Dealers have quoted me between $20K and $21K, and CarMax offered $22.5K a couple months ago.
Suggestions?
If you can get $4,300 for it "real money", then be there - cuz' thats ALL the "jack", Jack .............
Terry.
Terry ;-)
Terry.
Q
Thanks.
Looking at a 1998 Durango in snowy Columbus, Oh
here are the specifics:
Durango SLT plus
Red
4X4
82.2 k miles
5.9 engine
leather, 3rd row, cd/cass
the big black donuts (tires)are missing about half of their frosting
there is evidence of a recent invasion by the combined armies of McDonalds, taco bell and
7-11
Neither the front or rear air is blowing cold
The front end is loose, 4wd works well
All the electricals work
You may be wondering why I have interest in this. It was a trade in at a local dealer, they were going to wholesale it but will sell to me at 6k
Is this price good? What do you think it would go for at auction.
Thanks in advance
check out the classfieds at http://www.roadfly.org/porsche/
http://www.roadfly.org/porsche/classifieds/cars/listads.php?cat=1- 57
my two cents...
A/C probably has a bad condensor coil in the dash leaking out the Freon, you are looking at $1200ish to have it repaired, no matter what the normal failure of the A/C.
Front end, starting with bad ball joints, who knows how far the damage went depending on how long they drove it with those loose. Usually under $400 to $1000 to repair depending.
Given the apparant poor maintenance on the vehicle, better have the Dodge Slip-o-Matic transmission checked out. If it slips at all between ships, or studder shifts, when cold or when hot, may have been used for towing and not taken care off at all.
Is it a deal? To get it working and driveable (safe) you will have what, around $8000+ in the Durango (maybe lots more). You will wind up with the old style Durango as well, no Hemi. Plus all of about 10 MPG mixed driving. Will they let you take the vehicle to have it inspected?
-Eric
I would say fix the intermittent wiper problem, give it a good detail, bring the maintenance up to date and put it in the paper for, lets say around $3500 and send it packing at any offer around $3000.
Trade side consider yourself lucky to get anywhere near/over $2000 ACV for it as she sits.
Terry has been kind of on vacation lately, maybe spring break or March madness. But at least we do a lot of these low end rough but running old vehicles for the buy here pay here crowd.
6000 miles Blk/Blk 6speed
Greenville, SC
Technic Pkg (Xenons, Bose, Pwr Seats)
18" wheels
Spoiler
Haevn't seen it but owner states it is "flawless"
might buy this weekend if everything looks right
listed for $62,900 by private party
what's fair for both sides?
thanks Terry et al
frank
ps - that C4S sold right after I left the dealer. The guy traded in his C2 for $60000 then they called me later that day saying they would sell me his traded-in C2 for $1500 over their cost at $69,000. I laughed and politely said no thank you. Unfortunately it's all about the money these days. So sad.
8500 miles
Premium package
Steptronic
Titanium Silver/Gray leather interior
Thanks in advance.
Please advise as to a real world trade in since the edmunds and nada differ from the kelley bb by about $3000. Thank you - I appreciate it.
And yup. . . I won it. : )
Thank you for any advice.
Edit: Oh, it's platinum with grey interior, brand new, 12 miles on it.
The Mrs. and I decided to sell our '96 Civic EX coupe privately instead of trading it in. It's our first time selling and we don't have any idea what to expect in the real world. We've done our research but need some help.
Kbb says to expect anywhere from $5000 to $6000 for the vehicle, fair to good condition respectively, so we advertised it for $6000 or best offer.
What I would please like to know is what should we expect to get for it in the real world and is it even worth the trouble of selling it ourselves? Details of the Civic are below.
Thanks for all your help in advance!
Vehicle Details:
-1996 Honda Civic EX coupe
-Black ext
-Charcoal int
-5-speed
-1.6L VTEC I4
-<57k miles
-CD, moonroof, remote door locks, six speakers, pwr windows/locks, cruise, A/C (works just fine)
-New battery
-Was wrecked once, no structural damage
-Needs new exhaust (I think, because it sounds like it has one of those big coffee can mufflers on it but it doesn't. Must be a hole in the system somewhere)
-Shocks are worn
-All maintenance is up to date.
-Tires are half worn
-Paint needs some love
-Minor dings and scratches on the doors
-All power accessories function normally
-Brakes only have about 10k miles on them
Pittsburgh, PA
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
It is rough to fair condition as it sits:
Needs new exhaust, Shocks are worn, Tires are half worn,Paint needs some love, Minor dings and scratches on the doors.
Given the fact it is a 6 year old Civic with a 5 speed manual transmission, if it looked and drove like a 2002, then $6000 would be a fair ASKING price. You are going to have to do some major repair and body work to get it to the $5000 retail price range.
$4000 is a much closer figure given the poor condition of the car. Were you in Southern California, much easier to sell in rough condition like that.
I am getting the spring time trade itch. Could you please give me trade/retail for this one:
2001 I30, touring package, silver over black guts, no McDonalds inside or parking lot kisses from Wal-Mart, heated seats, sunroof, 6 disc, 45k, lives in southern Kentucky. One dealer said around $13.5. That seems low to me, but maybe I'm just hoping.
THanks,
Rick
$4000 is really about what I'm expecting. However, I came up with those numbers using KBB, Edmunds, etc. and someone looking for my car might do the same thing. Every time I rated it's condition myself it came back as good but I still used fair because it is not good to me. I wouldn't call it rough or poor because it does have very low miles and runs like the day it was bought. Just a little noisier due to the hole in the exhaust.
Bottom line is, I would expect about $4000 from a dealer but I'm looking for $5000 from a private buyer. Also, a neighbor of mine owns a garage and is a mechanic there. If worse comes to worst he said he could fix it up (new exhaust, shocks, tune-up, serp belt, etc) for about $500 which might have to be done before anyone bites.
The reason I corrected you above is because a six year old car with 57k miles isn't all that special. But an 8 year old car with 57k is.
All of the '96's I've seen thus far have had 90k+ on the odo. Ours is supposedly only 1/3 of the way through its life. I'm only asking for about 1/3 of the original MSRP (which is what my naive wife paid back in '96) back. Just another way to look at it.
Thanks for your opinion though. I'll keep it in mind while I'm trying to play the role of "salesman" in the next few days/weeks.
Your best bet is to have the exhaust fixed, get a great detail to make the paint ans interior shine, put a nice ad in the local papers, with maybe some autotrader coverage in Wheeling and points West into Ohio.
Good luck - I'm looking for a Mustang, also. (I almost said "Mustang, too", but that phrase brings back ugly thoughts that make me shudder)
Thanks in advance!
Based on YOUR description (as that is what I have to go on), I wouldn't touch your car with a ten foot pole. When there are a lot of OBVIOUS unaddressed problems with a car, I just begin to wonder how much attention to detail the seller has paid to preventative maintenance schedules. And especially if that car is a Honda or a Toyota which many owners think (mistakenly) do not require repairs or maintenance.
For the record, I am NOT a dealer. However, I am a PICKY used car buyer. There are a million cars out there (even with low miles) and I will only pay top dollars for very CLEAN vehicles.
That's my 0.02 worth.
I just don't want to sink any more money into the car and am willing to settle for a reasonable price if the buyer agrees to fix it instead. I just want it out of my garage so we can move on to bigger and better things. I'm really hoping that some youngster wants it so he/she can customize the exhaust, shocks, wheels, or whatever to his/her liking. It would be ideal for that because everything is still stock.
Getting it detailed is a good idea but I think a little paint cleaner and some wax will make a world of difference. I do plan to apply both sometime this week (weather permitting). The interior is fairly clean and I can detail it myself thanks to some nifty tools I bought a while back.
The way I see it, the exhaust is going to be the big factor because, as you mentioned, it won't pass inspection without repair. I can't hide that one. Not that I am trying to hide anything.
As for the Mustang, we've changed our minds again and decided to lease something a little more practical for 2 or 3 years and then buy a leftover 2006 or a new 2007 Mustang. That way all the bugs will be gone and we might hit a HP increase during a mid-model refresh. The little tyke will be able to crawl into his carseat on his own by then too. I've been contorting my body too much to get him into the back of the Civic and just can't do it anymore.
I'm not real happy with having to wait but you do what you gotta do I guess.
"I'm willing to use the exhaust as a bargaining point so I don't have to do it myself. If I only get offers that I don't like then I'll be forced to get it fixed."
You don't understand - it WILL NOT pass inspection in its present condition. It is non-sellable without the repair. It is actually illegal in the State of PA to sell a car that will not pass state inspection, unless you have a salvage license.
"I'm really hoping that some youngster wants it so he/she can customize the exhaust, shocks, wheels, or whatever to his/her liking. It would be ideal for that because everything is still stock."
Great idea, but "youngsters" who want to hop up a car because they just got done watching "The Fast and the Furious" for the 27th time DON'T HAVE ANY MONEY.
I have a 17 year old with good grades and a great part-time job - he's got $300 in the bank after stringing along his autocross car with large doses of help from dad. He can't stroke a check for $5000 - ain't happening. Teenagers with huge money don't buy 8 year old Civics - mommy and daddy buy them a BMW.
You'll have to find a youngster with a rich daddy with a big checkbook, who isn't smart enough to check the internet or credit union on real world values on the car - that combination is more rare than a winning lottery ticket.
I'm not looking for top dollar but I am starting there as I should. Chances are I'm not going to get it but, as the saying goes, a sucker is born every day.
For the record, maintenance is up to date. Just because I didn't wax it as often as I should doesn't mean I didn't maintain everything else. The exhaust issue just happened a month or two ago and there was nothing I could do to prevent it other than not letting my wife buy a Honda. Plus, with a 4-month old at home, fixing the exhaust on a car I drive to work and back was not a priority.
It'll sell whether I fix it or not. The offers I get will determine whether that get's done or not.
Taking what you can get, especially when your budget and your young one is concerned, to me, is not a choice. Make the car as perfect as possible, and hold your head up as you market it - those Hondas are gold when they're clean.
People assume that an unclean car with a few minor mechanical issues was never maintained - it's just the way folks are - that assumption will absolutely kill your checkbook, I promise.
Drop me an e-mail if you need any more info.
I didn't "throw away" the advice. I said I'd hang on to it if I need it.
"You don't understand - it WILL NOT pass inspection in its present condition. It is non-sellable without the repair. It is actually illegal in the State of PA to sell a car that will not pass state inspection, unless you have a salvage license."
Can you provide a link to this information? I have not seen this anywhere.
At no point during our ownership of the car has it failed inspection so as far as I know everything is OK. It is due to be inspected in two months but since it has been driven less than 7000 miles this past year it is emissions exempt as it was last year too. Therefore, I don't know that they will care the exhaust has a hole in it.
Take the advice or leave it - I'm trying to help you get as much money for your car as possible - if you can't see that, I'm sorry.
Sheesh.
Most buyers didn't want the car because of the tires, it became a major issue......nothing mechanically wrong with the car either......but with the tires the way they were people balked. I forsee the same thing with your Civic and its exhaust, you would be money ahead to fix the car, detail the heck out of it, THEN put it up for sale.
Please, for your own good, please take the advice of some of our real pros, get her cleaned up well, fix whats wrong with it, be straight-up with the potential buyer about the accident and any other issues... you'll be much better off in the end.
All I asked was if you could provide a link, not drive a state rep to my house for a one on one explanation of the rules. To use your words, Sheesh!
I'll find it myself if you can't provide it. No biggie.
"Take the advice or leave it - I'm trying to help you get as much money for your car as possible - if you can't see that, I'm sorry."
I understand that and I appreciate your help. But as I've mentioned two or three times before, I'm not necessarily looking to get as much money as I can for it. To do that would require too much prep work on the car and it's not worth my time to do that right now. I just want the cash in my bank account instead of in a dealer's account.
one thing you gotta understand... there is a direct correlation between how the car presents itself and what you will get for it. I don't think you need to do a whole bunch to it to make it show well to a potential buyer, clean it up good, fix the exhaust... it'll make a WORLD of difference to any potential buyer.... I think the extra effort will be worth more than you think, you'd be surprised.
I never intended to hide that information. You can tell something happened if you look hard enough anyway. The paint and interior panels look newer on that side but otherwise match to a "T".
The accident wasn't all that bad. She got hit in the passenger side A-pillar which is a very strong part of the car. Sheet metal was replaced as well as the right front tire/wheel/suspension, and the dash which, being made of cheap plastic, cracked. They tried to avoid replacing the dash but wanted to do it right.
The shop that fixed it is a top notch facility known throughout the tri-state area for it's quality workmanship.
Funny thing is, there are less rattles and squeaks after the accident than were present before it. They basically stripped the car down (seats out, console out) and put it back together again. It's all documented with pictures and actually quite impressive.
I think you guys are making its condition worse than it is. I was trying to be honest in my description but it's not as bad as some seem to think. The one major flaw is the exhaust (which will be fixed tomorrow). Other than that it has been taken care of and is not a total mess. Paint cleaner + powered buffer + wax + 3 hours = shiny clean paint.
Will do on both counts. However, after the paint is cleaned it will most likely show some wear and the dings won't be gone. I stated those in the original description for that reason.
I'm not going to present it to someone with salt and dirt all over it. Some things are just given. Like washing and waxing.
I think it was Mackabee who bought a car- maybe it was a Camaro - off of EBay. The car was filthy. Offered the kid a $1k for it. Gave it to his kid who cleaned it up and sold ikt for $3k.
WHY ON EARTH would you leave money on the table when there's a chance that you could do $500-1000 better?
A major accident, easily detectable by a car pro, plus mechanical issues, and it doesn't show well - as long as you're not trying to "get as much money as you can for it", you've got the winning poker hand to do just that.
I give up.
Also, anyone have an idea what would be a fair price for a new 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan Anniversayr edition with power lift gate. Should I be able to pick one up for invoice or less and also get the $4500 reabate?
You all gave your advice and tried to help and I'm sure its appreciated by this seller, but let's move on, please.
or... better yet ... how about a new topic "how much are you willing to let your laziness cost you?"
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
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But on a car that sells itself, not to present it well is finiacial suicide - the Civic and Acoord, in my opinion, are the easiest cars in the market to sell privately and get the most money for.
Again, I give up.
There are exactly six advertised in the main Pittsburgh paper right now. Mine isn't the oldest or the newest on the list but it does have the lowest miles to years ratio.
One of them is an '01 EX coupe with 84k "highway" miles. In excellent condition KBB says it's worth $9,580 around here. He's asking $10,750. $8,835 for good condition which is more realistic.
Demand is a little higher around here than in Chicago because we all drive. There is no El and cabs are limited to the airport or hotels. I'm just testing the market out.
On a side note, I've been to Chicago twice. Great city!
I wanted a good starting point for the ads.
Time spend with my family and friends is more important to me than the extra $500 or $1000 I can get from a buyer by revamping the car.
It's just not worth it.