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Chevy Venture

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Comments

  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    Maybe there is something to that Chevy slogan... "Like a Rock".
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    When I was shopping for minivans, I had narrowed my search down to the Ody and Venture, I went with the Venture for many of the reasons you noticed, and the fact that I bought it for about $6K less than a comparable Ody. I have been very happy with my choice.
  • artgpoartgpo Member Posts: 483
    I am very satisfied with my '03 Silhouette so far. The Honda was actually a lot less money than was the Olds. Both have strong merits and and weak points. If it is reliable and relatively trouble free through years of ownership and miles then it is a good deal.
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Member Posts: 833
    artgpo,
    you say you chose the Silhouette over the Odyssey and paid more for it? Wow! what is it that you like better in the Olds product that would make you pay more?
  • artgpoartgpo Member Posts: 483
    Perhaps my message was a bit misleading. The MSRP on the Olds was cosiderably more than was the Honda. The Olds does have more equipment than did the Honda. I thought the Olds deal was better considering the Zero percent financing, $500 cash rebate, $850 leather seating rebate and the GM bumper to bumper extended warranty offered to all new Olds customers. I think they even threw in 90 days before the first payment came due.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Member Posts: 274
    Our 99 just turned 70k miles, repairs so far: replaced alternator in June.
    Odds & ends: replaced original battery and front rotors. I also replaced the broken rear hatch pulldown with a piece of webbing.
    We also narrowed the van search down to Ody & GM Triplets, mainly because the V6 was standard. We'd had two Hondas, no Chevys. We bought the Venture, it's been great.
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Member Posts: 833
    I bought the "loaded" Ody EX, leather with DVD - everything but Nav. At MSRP it was aprox. $33k OTD. Not the deal of the century, but the best Van in that price range - IMHO

    Did you get AWD or something?
    I'm not sure what else you can get other than Nav and AWD.
  • artgpoartgpo Member Posts: 483
    My Silhouette has leather seats with eight way power both driver and passenger. Dual power sliding doors. In dash 6 disk CD player. Rear parking assist. Towing package with rear self leveling shocks and chrome 16" wheels. The MSRP was $33,250 (or just about that) . OTD it was $31,400 include TT&L. For another $1,500 I could have had the Premier with RES and heated front seats. The RES would have never been used so it was a complete waste of money.
  • 1panky1panky Member Posts: 34
    After fiddling with new batteries and following the owner manual recalibrating techniques, I broke down and took my 2000 Venture to the dealer for a "computer" recalibrating of key fobs in an attempt to correct the inoperative remote door lock system at a cost of $49.00. The dealer later called to inform me the reason the system was not working was due to a "shorted" receiver unit. The unit was $186.00 and with labor, shop supplies, etc., it came to $409.00. A nice tidy sum but, I decided the work had to be performed. Other than the replacement of the original battery and a few cosmetic adjustments under warrantee; it's been a great vehicle. With 66,000 miles so far, I'm keeping an eye open for the impending defective gasket problem inherent in this model. Otherwise, I have been quite pleased with this van.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
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  • montanafanmontanafan Member Posts: 945
    The TSB for the updated gasket repair, includes new manifold bolts. A thought for someone who dosen't currently have a leak, may be to replace the bolts now and keep a leak from starting or slow the progress.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Member Posts: 274
    can you post a link to the TSB?
  • montanafanmontanafan Member Posts: 945
    I read it on a Grand Am site where it was posted by a dealership employee. I think any GM site would be password protected, and All Data's site requires a subscription. Possible it may be at http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov
  • 1panky1panky Member Posts: 34
    While having my 2000 Venture serviced, I also had my 2001 Monte Carlo ss serviced for the gasket repair under a GM recall notice. They did replace the bolts as part of this fix and added an additive to the radiator. It appears selected vehicles are being tapped for having this repair performed under manufacturer cost. I do appreciate this action by GM on the Monty but, I wonder what criteria is being used in choosing which GM product gets this service. It would be nice if the Venture was ultimately added to this fix. If not, maybe there is some truth to GM covering half the cost to those who complain the loudest. This would greatly help in my continued future purchase of a GM vehicle.
  • #noname#noname Member Posts: 58
    contact General Motors Head Quarters about your concern with your vehicle. Tell them that this is going to affect your decision about buying GM in the future.

    Unless GM is reading this post, they will never know of your concerns. Again, contact GM directly.
  • dennie4dennie4 Member Posts: 24
    I wrote in last month about my 200 Venture using a quart of oil about every thousand miles. The dealer told me they were going to do an oil consumption test. I drive my butt off and get 1000 thousands miles on the van. Just before the thousand miles the check engine light comes on. I figure it has something to do with the oil usage. I make an appointment take van and wait. My dealer who normally does great service decides to have a dealer moment. The service advisor comes out and tells me the light was for a sensor that went bad(nothing to do with oil usage) and of course they do not have it in stock and have to order it. I then ask him about the oil consumption test. He looks on his computer and notices no one ever marked the mileage from the last visit so he can't use the last miles and has to start a new test. In conversation he also states that from experience that GM will not do any thing if it is using a quart per thousand. I am starting new test now. But in the meantime while I was at this dealer. I test drove a Buick Rendezvous and loved it, so much in fact that I bought one the following week. I bring this up only to point out that if you are looking to buy a new car, get out now and get it. I thought I got a screaming deal when I bought the Venture. The deal on the Buick made that look pathetic. GM has never offered better deals and I am not sure they will in future. With five thousand dollars in rebates and whatever deal you can work out it is unbeatable. I had thought about trading for a new Venture, but our kids are getting older and we are getting out of needing a van. Also now that I have a new SUV all the sudden the Van isn't as exciting to my wife. I would guess in short order the Van will be history. I only hope it doesn't start blowing blue smoke before we get rid of it. I also bought the extended warranty on Buick and intend to on every new vehicle I buy from now on. With the cost of vehicle and associated service costs I can't see taking the chance of a major uncovered breakdown any more.
  • minnventureguyminnventureguy Member Posts: 2
    Bought a 2000 Venture last November with 9,000 miles on it. Currently have 19,000 with nothing major so far. The only issue so far is a squeaking from the back suspension when I go over speed bumps or into driveway cuts. I’ve checked the rear shocks and bushings and everything looks fine. I can’t find any lube fittings so I’m assuming they’re sealed for life. Has anyone had this and if so what was the cure?

    Second question is the intake manifold leak issue. How does this start? Smell of antifreeze? Puddles on the floor? Moisture near at the bottom of the interior near the heater blower outlet? I haven’t noticed anything but want to make sure I’m looking in the right spot.

    Thanks for your help.
  • 33chevy33chevy Member Posts: 28
    2000 Venture 40 k miles on it. When you go to stop for the first time going forward after the vehicle has been setting overnight or after about 30 minutes.... the first time you apply the brakes the pedal goes to the floor..it does stop the vehicle. If you let up on the pedal and depress again ..it does gain pedal height and the brakes feel harder.

    Have owed this van since new. Never had to add any brake fluid. Reservoir was still above min mark..added a little to bring to max. This sounds like air in the brake system. Do these vans have a typically spongy feel when braking? Just checking to see if anyone had similar problems before taking to dealer. Thanks
  • 33chevy33chevy Member Posts: 28
    This is the same van as in post #1550. At 37,200 miles and 3months out of warranty tranny developed harsh shifts. Dealer said there was a TSB out on this problem. Replacing solenoid cured problem...it's internal in tranny.

    Dealer said it wouldn't hurt to contact Chevrolet Customer Service. I wrote them a long letter telling of my owing Chevy's and GM products since 1962 and describing my transaxle problem. Customer Service contacted me by phone about 5 or 6 times then they contacted the dealer. 3 months later last week. I got a call from the dealer saying that Chevy was crediting my GM Card with the repair costs. I did have the dealer change the tranny fluid and filter which I paid for....it was worth taking the time to write. GM must have a heart somewhere!
  • baveuxbaveux Member Posts: 175
    Its not air in the system, its a leak or a weak master cylinder.

    Is the pedal moving down when you keep depressing it ?

    Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir and get the system checked by your mechanics a.s.a.p
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    I just had both rear brake cylinders replaced (2000 Venture) - brakes felt "soft" for a number of months and finally the dealer believed my complaints. Cost : $370,- total Supposedly both cylinders were leaking, but I never saw any brake fluid.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    Our 2000 Montana had both rear cylinders replaced under warranty about a year ago. We didn't notice a problem, but during a state inspection, the dealership noticed them leaking and replaced them.

    Recently, we had the first brake job done on the van and the service center used ceramic pads as replacements. What a difference!!! The brake feel has dramatically improved (much firmer pedal) and stopping seems somewhat improved. You might consider using these types of pads at brake job time.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Member Posts: 274
    I didn't know there was such a thing for our vans....are you using the same old rotors?
    I'd sure like to have a firmer pedal feel.
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Member Posts: 228
    According to a parts list I found on the internet (autopartstreet.com), my 2000 Olds Silhouette has ceramic pads as OE.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    Those installed on our van were not OEM. There are plenty of aftermarket options in ceramic pads. I'm not sure what brand ours are, but after a little bit of a noisy break-in, I'd sure use them again. The rotors were only resurfaced, not replaced.
  • 33chevy33chevy Member Posts: 28
    Reference to my previous #1550 post. I used the KISS principle.."Keep It Simple Stupid".
    Pulled off rear drums....all looked like new. Checked up front pass side ... outside pad looked good and the wear indicator metal tab was nowhere near to being where it would make the squeaking noise to signify a worn brake pad. In looking at the inner pad on piston side...it looked crumbly and thinner. Took apart and pad was floating around loose ..had lost it's bonding to backer plate and everything about the pad was rusty. Same on drivers side. Living in the northeast salt belt is hard on unprotected disc brakes.

    Went to local NAPA store and bought premium pads and rotors..( rotors were ok but figured why not just do all). Brakes work fine now. I am now wondering how many other vehicles are on the road with such worn parts at 40k mile range and unsuspecting owners don't know. Maybe the companies should put the wear indicator tabs on the inner piston side pad..from my experience over the years from the 70's GM disc systems..the piston side always wears the most.

    Oh sad to say the rotors from NAPA were made in China. We can't ever go to war with them..they probably make our bullets!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My van's inner pads seem to wear faster too, and it's hard to eyeball them without removing the tires.

    And on a more positive note, the Chinese are less likely to attack those who purchase their goods. I could go for some North Korean brake pads right about now.

    But we digress....

    In incentive news, the Venture, Silhouette and Montana are currently selling with $1,500 discounts. (AutoNews)

    Steve, Host
  • bcd99bcd99 Member Posts: 45
    I just replaced break pads at 37K on my 01 Silo. Likewise the inside pads were worn thinner than the outside. I went to Autozone since my local NAPA was closed being that I wait to check over the van until 8:30pm on the night before the appt. for inspection, *S*. I bought pads and when I went to put them on I noticed that there are wear indicators on the outside and the inside. I guess someone knows something about brake wear.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    The inner pads will wear faster than the outside ones. The inner pad makes contact first with the rotor to pull the outer pad towards the rotor. Why they put the wear sensor on the outside only remains a mystery

    I guess that is why they recommend a brake inspection at certain intervals.
  • serenagserenag Member Posts: 1
    Actually, this light has been coming on since the spring but we have been simply refilling the reservoir with dexcool thinking that the heat of the summer was causing it to somehow evaporate or something.

    I have 73,000 miles on my 99 Venture. Has anyone been able to get the dealer to offer a goodwill warranty for the intake manifold gasket replacement. Also, I have heard about secret warranties that only the dealership knows about, has anybody been covered under such a deal?

    Also, the luggage rack is peeling in large black flakes anyone else having this problem?
  • jeberjeber Member Posts: 91
    I think that's what its referred to as--silent recall or silent warranty

    Nissan replaced the v-6 in my pfinder a couple years back, a certain "run" of the blocks were bored slightly wrong, causing piston slap...I was skeptical when I first heard of it, but it definitely had the problem (noise on cold start) and they replaced it, no charge. I'll tell you what, that sort of thing will create long-term benefits for an auto manufacturer far exceeding the costs they incur for the repair

    I did a lot of research into the gm vans before getting mine, and unfortunately I've never seen info on gm taking care of the intake gasket leak on the 3.4, even though it seems obvious that they SHOULD--as with my nissan example, if gm refuses to take care of a problem that is obviously a defective part (not normal wear & tear), then its gonna hurt 'em much more in the long run--I mean, if mine starts leaking, and gm does zilch for me, then gosh, even though I like my silo, my next vehicle will probably be a nissan or toyota
  • montanafanmontanafan Member Posts: 945
    "Secret Warranties" are easy for GM owners. GM mails a copy of the to the registered owners when ever they come out with a special policy that includes extended warranty coverage of a part or system.

    And don't worry, your extended service plan (from whoever you purchased it) will cover intake manifold gaskets even in the most basic powertrain versions.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Member Posts: 274
    Did you have to anything special on your brake job because of the antilock system? I have not done any brakework on ABS cars for fear I'd mess something up.
  • 33chevy33chevy Member Posts: 28
    Nothing special to putting pads and rotors on. Just as simple as doing a GM car from the 70' and 80's. They improved it as the holding bolts are protected from the elements by rubber boots and there are stainles steel clips for the pads to slide in and they also act as anti-rattle devices. You get new ones in the premium pads I got from NAPA but original were as good as new. Just make sure you get a big "C" clamp and using an old pad push back the piston all the way so you have enough clearance for the new pads and some "freeplay " for putting the bolts in.

    If you change the rotors (which just fall off easily) you have to take off the cast iron mounting bracket for the caliper....it has treadlock on the threads so it comes of like you are stripping the threads..some factory guy put more on some of the bolts 'cause I had to back in and out and on one and use some WD-40 to help them get out. 15 mm socket does the bolts.

    Wash everything with Brake Cleaner so no traces of grease or dirt remain ...and use some new thread sealant if you change the rotors. The caliper bolts didn't have any on them. If you have added any brake fluid to your reservior as the brakes wore ..it will now be overfilled due to the pistons being back where they used to be when new pads are installed..no problema!
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Member Posts: 274
    I might try it myself next time.
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    how come there is no mention of ever changing this in the service manual???
    whatever happened to the ?old idea about water getting into the system and the brake fluid needing to be changed periodically??? VW still makes you do it every 2 years!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
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  • veedubguyveedubguy Member Posts: 2
    Recently purchased a '99 Venture LS Extended with 37K mi. Feel pretty good about the deal I got, although I've heard bad stuff about the reliability. Especially the intake gasket problem.
    Everything seems to be working great except for the rear heat. I discovered this when I went to replace the anti-freeze (I've heard that 5 years/150,000 mi Dex-Cool is not all it's cracked up to be so I thought I'd flush and fill with fresh Dex-Cool). I've read the manual and believe I have the knobs set right. The hoses going to the rear heater core are cold even when the front heat is working fine. Anyone have this problem? If so, what was the cause? I haven't had time to finish the anti-freeze replacement since I discovered this problem. I plan in taking the van on a 3K mi trip soon and would like to figure this out before then.
    Any help is appreciated.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out message 615.

    Steve, Host
  • veedubguyveedubguy Member Posts: 2
    Steve,

    Thanks! Took a look at #615. Does anyone know what the TSB says that xcusme2 is referring to? The front heat seems nice and toasty. There is absolutely NO rear heat (the hoses and tubes are COLD). Sounds like the flow restrictor is for the front heater core. Also wonder what the thermostat change was (possibly a hotter one).

    Does anyone know if the rear heater controls operate a valve that is only for the rear core? Maybe this is not working. It's not obvious from looking at the hoses in the engine compartment.

    I figure once I get SOME warmth, I can insulate the tubes going under the floor so that they don't lose as much heat. I just can't seem to get anything remotely warm back there.

    OK, I'll stop babbling.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    I looked in my manual for my 02 Silhouette and it doesn't show any water valves for the rear or the front heaters. A very poor drawing shows that they use two "T"s to get the water to the back heater.

    The "T"'s are located by the firewall. The water goes from the engine to the "T" where it is split off to go to both the front and rear heaters.

    Maybe the inlet "T" is clogged/restricted and not allowing any hot water to go to the back heater.

    The manual only shows air control doors for the front and the back heaters to control the temp of the air. Didn't find any water valves.

    As far as insulating the rear heater pipes, my 02 has been driven in 15 degrees weather and the rear heat has been hot. Not sure if that will change with age of the van.

    Let me know if I can look up any thing else for you. Good luck.
  • infinia1infinia1 Member Posts: 174
    my o2 with 22,500 miles was in the service department today for a broken ac compressor and a chain-type rattling. finally after 3 attempts, the rattling was diagnosed as loose brake pad clips of some kind??? so they want to replace the shoes, but not turn the rotors. is that ok to do? i mean i'll take the new brakes but i don't want the rotors to wear them wrong. i've also had the transmission slip while coming upon a red light, coasting about 5-7 mph, then it turns green so i step on it. the transmission seems to slip between second going to first gear, trying to decide which it wants. a couple of times it has chirped the tires. it doesn't seem normal but i can't duplicate it when a tech rides with me. so they are trying to "explain" it away as if it's ok for the transmission to do that. anyone else have this happen? thanks.
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Member Posts: 228
    I would say that is fine. Turning the rotors when they don't need it only shortens their life.
    Some minor scoring of the rotors will not hurt anything, I've been told.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I think minor scoring may just result in increased brake noise while the pads get broken in to the rotor. There's less chance of break-in noise when you have new pads and new (or newly turned) rotors since the corresponding surfaces are relatively flat and ridge free.

    I've also read that the reason many shops automatically turn or even install new rotors is because they get so many return visits from customers complaining of the break-in noise if they don't.

    Steve, Host
  • infinia1infinia1 Member Posts: 174
    if anyone remembers my 02 venture, 22,500 miles now...i had transmission concerns that i asked about a while back. well guess what???!!! yep, it blew while the wife was picking up the kids from school! i knew something wasn't right. in the previous posts, i had said that it was slipping sometimes. but of course the dealer couldn't duplicate anything. the now fired service manager even tried to tell me my description was normal, that it was designed into the trans to protect it! whatever...i am vindicated! this makes me very angry. i have 3 kids and there's no way 3 car seats are going to fit into any neon or focus rental! thank goodness the dealer pushed chevrolet for a larger car since they only wanted to pay $30 per day for neon or focus, not $45 per day for another venture, a trailblazer, or an impala. and it was in last week for 4 days for the ac compressor and brakes?! that time the manager gave us his personal malibu. this is very dissapointing. considering the family has a malibu, a tracker, a prizm, a monte carlo, and a lumina...all with my persuasion and all good cars, i will be asking chevrolet for some compensation. there have been many other repairs in the last 7000 miles. these dealer trips are becoming real headaches.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    I would run very fast away from that dealership. The van is not the problem, the dealership is. Some dealers just don't care and it sounds like this is the case.

    Now call GM headquarters and tell them your story and that you are not satisfied with this dealer causing you and your family such problems.
    Maybe, an adjustment would have saved this transmission and GM would not have to pay for a new one.

    Again, I would find a different dealer to service my van.
  • lennxlennx Member Posts: 73
    Found water dripping from the visor a few weeks ago on our 2002 Venture.

    Dealer seemed familiar with this type of problem. Removed the windshield and the liner, sealed some joints and installed a new windshield.

    Leak is gone.

    Key with any problem is having a service dept that listens and understands the problem rather than blow you off. I tried the Chevy dealer we bought the van from and one closer to home and was not satisfied with either one. Now I go to a Pontiac dealer that has a great service dept.

    Average around 23 mpg mixed driving. Get 25 to 27 on the highway.
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    anyone know what torque the lug nuts on a Venture should be at?? (and for a Windstar too??)
  • baveuxbaveux Member Posts: 175
    venture = 100 f.p dont know for the ford
  • xcusme2xcusme2 Member Posts: 3
    Veedubguy,

    I check into the forum about this time every year to see if others are having the same problem. I don't recall the number of the TSB regarding the 'Low Heat' for the sister vans for years '97 thru ??? to include other models as well.

    It seems hard to believe that I STILL have the problem.....lack of heat from both the front AND rear heater cores. I could write a book about what I think the problem is. For the last few months , I've been planning on finally getting to the bottom of the problem. I truly suspect that it's not just one thing. It's a design problem.

    The last time I addressed the issue was last fall. I worked very closely with the dealer and GM. I had stopped at a local dealer and looked at the latest models of the Venture that the dealer had delivered from Canada. I noticed that ALL of them had an auxiliary circulating coolant pump installed in the heater lines. There was a TBS regarding this add-on pump for those vehicles that had problems with low heater performance at low idle RPM's. The add-on pump is controlled by a remote thermistor mounted in front of the radiator. It is the switch that supplies voltage to the Aux. pump at temps below 32 F. I bitc*ed loud enough and GM agreed to install it gratis. It did seem to help, but did not fully solve the problem.

    As for you're problem, I agree with Just4fun2. I would start by inspecting the first 'Tee" after the heater core supply line leaves the block. The first TSB addressed this first 'Tee". The instructions were to remove the supply hose and to 'ream out the flow restrictor' from the front heater side of the 'Tee". This will improve flow to the front heater core, but will reduce flow to the rear core. Next I would check the 'Tee' FROM the rear heater core, back into the block. Removing both the supply side and return side of the rear core and doing a flow test with a garden hose ( and barb fitting) will verify that there's no blockages further back in the underbody lines or rear core. Pay attention to the bleeding of the cooling system to eliminate air from the cooling lines and block as well. Check and/or replace you're radiator cap while you're at it.

    I have researched many web sites regarding the Dex-Cool issue, and gelling of the coolant if there is any air intrusion into the cooling system. Perhaps you have this kind of blockage.

    I'm planning on putting up a web site detailing the fix for others who have this problem. I'll dig up the printed TSB's I have collected regarding this issue and post those as well. I surely can't be the only person with this problem. When it gets below zero, this van is no joy to drive and sadly, GM and it's dealers I've spoken to , don't have the answer beyond a band-aid type solution. The simple fact that GM had to design the aux. coolant pump to address this issue proves that there is a problem.
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