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replace the Starting Motor.
It seems like its a cable problem. I tried to take off the inside panel to see if there was a simple explanation as to why this is happening, but I could only see in using a flashlight.
If someone has the shop manual - can you please look it up for me with an explaination, part number, picture or any suggestions.
Any help or ideas would be appreciated?
Thanks!
No transmission problems or fuel pump problems on mine. I did have the tranny fluid flushed and replaced at 46,000 miles. I now have 60,000 on it and so far so good. Overall, the van drives and rides pretty good, my wife loves it, but I don't think I would buy another Chevy van after all of the problems I had with mine and it all occured with under 50,000 miles.
Good luck with yours
Its a popular mod with Saturn S cars as their fans come on at a really hot temp.
Or let the fan run all of the time - certainly shouldn't hurt anything
I researched and finally found a fix for non functioning Driver Information Center.
The solution was similar to that found for similar modules on other brands of vehicles.
Remove the Driver Information Center Module
(See GM manual for procedure)
Push back clips from black housing box and carefully remove circuit board
Place circuit card flat on table.
Place display and component side of circuit board facing up
Rotate circuit board so the display module side is facing you
There are button switches on either side of the display module
Look at the right button switch.
Next to it just left and above are four 1/4" X 1/8" black components attached to the circuit board
They are marked 430, 430, 820 and 820 reading from top to bottom.
These are resistors with 43 and 82 ohm values.
On the two modules I have repaired the problem was with the top most resistor. It is marked 430 and is 1/2" above and 1/4" to the left of the right button switch. The soldering to the circuit board had fractured. I resoldered the resistor into place using a bit of solder and 15 Watt pencil soldering iron.
All fixed.
The problem is NOT the black spot on the display in the upper left corner
The problem is NOT the DC to DC converter modules.
Why does it come loose?
I believe the resistor was part of the circuit which supplied power to the display module plates.
The resistor came loose due to the metallurgy of solder. The solder often is a mixture of tin and lead. The tin is more strongly attracted to the copper in the circuit board than the lead is attracted. When hot, when within 10% of melting temperature (resistors designed to run hot), the tin near the circuit board face will move. Having moved there is stress in the solder at the locations where it left. These holes create high stress in the solder structure, this leads to a fracture staight across the mounting face of the resistor as smooth and complete as if a knife cut the resistor loose. This only happens in designs which allow parts to heat to values close to the melting point of the solder. This rarely would happen in the past before surface mounted components. The cure would be higher temperature solder, cooler running parts, avoiding flat straight mounting interfaces, etc. Reheating the joint sets it right for a while.
Key words:
Chevy Venture 1999
DIC
Driver Information Center
VA344314KMD
VFD Vacuum Fluorescent Display
Futuba VA3527 2-BT-225GN
http://newrockies.com?ap_id=iykeus
With the bracket broken it was difficult to control the steering as the car swerved violently.
I put this article to warn & caution other drivers of the problem with this year & model because if anyone was at a higher speed it could result in a severe accident or death.
I feel it is a manufacturing defect of some kind.
I would like to know if anyone has a similar problem as the company has said that there is no recall on the vehicle.
We have a 2002 Chevy Venture with the 3.4. About a week ago the heater would only blow cold air so figured it needed a thermostat. I put it off for about a week since it wasn't overheating. Plus my wife is a teacher in town and only has to drive a few blocks each day. I drove it to the auto parts store and finally started overheating. On the way there I noticed the temperature gauge would sometimes spike with slower speeds and go back down with higher speeds. The heater would also blow hot and the gauge would drop when going fast. It wouldn't do that all the time though. At times, even while going fast, it would still overheat. I pulled over once when the needle was getting up there and shut it down. I waited a couple minutes and started it back up. The heater blew hot and temp went down. I figured all of this was symptoms of the thermostat until I stopped at the auto parts store and noticed steam coming from the engine compartment but couldn't tell exactly where it was coming from.
When I returned home I swapped the thermostat and tried bleeding the system. The bleeder screw by the thermostat housing was seeping coolant but the one by the water pump just had air coming out of it and continued to only blow air. No coolant is being sucked in from the overflow tank even when the temperature gauge was getting up there. The radiator fans are blowing. The heater is still blowing cold and engine is still overheating. There is a coolant leak that is coming from somewhere below the throttle body or kind of to the rear of the thermostat housing. I can't see exactly where it is coming from. All I can see is steam coming up from that area. If you are looking at the engine from under the hood it is coming from the lower rear right.
From all the reading I have done I'm guessing it's the lower intake or possibly the head gasket? There's no antifreeze in the oil or vice versa. Are there any small hoses in that area that may be leaking? If a head gasket blows would enough coolant shoot out the side to cause the steam? I've heard that's possible with a blown intake gasket. You can tell that it has had some very light seepage out of the intake towards the front over the years but nothing serious. I've also had to add about a quart of oil every 3000 miles over the past few years. There just seems to be a bunch of light seepage out of quite a few gaskets. Not sure if any of this is related but you can just tell that many gaskets could stand to be replaced.
The van has 140,000 miles on it and it has been a great van. We bought it when it had 30,000 and the only thing I have had to do to it was replace the ac condenser and the battery (if a battery even counts). We are going to be looking for a new vehicle soon but I would like to fix it to get more out of it when we do sell it. I would really like to get a few more months out of it. Heck, if I replace all gaskets the wife may have to keep it for another 5 years! I'm pretty sure I'd be living on the streets if I told her no new vehicle.
I could try and take a video of the area where it seems to be leaking and post it on youtube if it would help.
If it is the intake should I go ahead and replace the head gaskets while I'm down there?
Sorry for the long post. I just wanted to make sure I hit everything. If I need to elaborate on anything, please let me know. Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks!
Brian
I think I have the same issue. I have a 05 Pontiac Montana with the 3.4L, blows cold air from heater when you come to an idle (stop light). My mechanic says its the intake gasket $600-700. Is this car worth the fix?
Few months ago the car temp gauge would rise. Mechanic bled the air out of the system and things have been fine. No longer get the overheating, just the cold air from the heater.
Would like your opinion on what to do.
Thanks,
Gary
Thanks.