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Real-World Trade-In Values

17907917937957961098

Comments

  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    I was waiting for you to come back from holidays, (cuz you seem to know your stuff) and was hoping to get a price on the CRV. This is my forth request and the thread has gone off on other roads about tax in dif states etc, but still, can no one can help me price this car? (above)
  • jimbresjimbres Member Posts: 2,025
    And what about the moonroof? You didn't mention it, but that's standard on EX, right?

    Yeah, it is. I have substantially the same car - an '06 CR-V with stick - & it has the moonroof.

    One small detail: the steering column is tilt only - not tilt/telescope.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,439
    well dang, I could use this. OK, I don't need it, but I am 2 hours or so from hershey. and the price seems right, as long as it is going for wholesale!

    stick and a roof. Too bad it won't have power seats, right?

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • jimbresjimbres Member Posts: 2,025
    Too bad it won't have power seats, right?

    Nope. Power driver's seat didn't come along until the next generation (2007+) CR-V.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Guess we were posting at same time, thanks a lot.

    No, I can't sell it for wholesale. That figure is a fair bit lower than i thought it would be. What would reasonable retail be on it? I have over a thousand worth of extra set of winter tires and rims...only 1800 mi on them. (cold, wet miles, so they are basically new)

    The car is basically a good car, cared for and has a TON of life left in it, but I have wrecked my back in a really bad way that, so far, the prognosis is not good. And the seat is my primary beef with car. And on a more of a shallow note, I would like a bit more tranquility in my years now.

    While some might penalize it 500 for the stick, I went looking FOR a stick. And those in the know about Honda sticks vs Honda autos, are better off with the stick. (sticks don't need no stinkin' Grade Logic) j/k
    And the irony is that the car that replaces it with the seat I'm after, won't likely be avail in stick. And these seats have airbags in them so not sure how involved it would be to put a dif seat in. I have always longed to have another dsl and VW's have the good seats, but overall less dependability than I am used to. And of course price is always an issue, so while there are great seats to be had in dsls, they are all expensive cars, especially in AWD if i conti to anti up to that.
    I have also always done my own oil changes and use the Honda filter. I let it drain overnight and finish up the next day. This engine would go 400k I'm pretty sure. Clutch too in the right hands. The reason I mentioned the oil deal is cuz my back is so bad i can't get under and up behind the engine to get the filter off. And I don't intend to pay a shop to it, I do not trust any shop with my car. Some are worthy of trust I know, but i have run in to too many of the other kind.

    For anyone willing to pay more than wholesale, if u were interested, more info and details can be found at post 40351. I say that cuz I am willing to pay more than wholesale for what I replace it with.

    Thanks again for the price.
  • blackcurrantblackcurrant Member Posts: 152
    i've been away for awhile. what happened to bill and terry? are you in the business now? Are you working the auctions?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I have to wonder just how often a new "Galves" book comes out?

    NADA is used most often where I'm located but the auction result averages are more accurate.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Used low mileage CRV's bring crazy money. Cicivs and CRV's are hard to find and can sell for over book.

    At the auctions we would pay over book to get nice ones or we woldn't be successful.

    The manual will make it difficult to sell though and the stores know it. I wouild expect a 1000.00 hit for the stick.
  • jayriderjayrider Member Posts: 3,602
    blackcurrent, did you check the offerings on ebay -- both both current and completed ? there is some hard data there.
  • exb0exb0 Member Posts: 539
    What are you replacing the CRV with that has comfortable seats?

    I have lower back herniated disk problem and I am looking for a small SUV, wagon type with comfortable seats.

    Here is what I looked at so far:
    Current generation CRV – seats are very hard.
    Acura RDX – A little better, but still hard seats.
    Nissan Rogue – Horrible seats, I was in pain within five minutes.
    Nissan Murano -- Nicer than Rogue, but I drove it right after Rogue and I was still in pain, so I am not sure.
    Toyota Venza – No lateral support.
    Toyota Prius – Horrible seats.
    hyundai santa fe – Seats weren’t comfortable and hard to get in and get out.
    Subaru Forester – Seats were too hard.
    Subaru Outback – Excellent seats and comfortable ride, but there are shaking issues at highway speeds.
    Scion Xb – Doesn’t have lumbar support, but seats seem to be nicely shaped and comfortable. Seems like a lot of car for the money.
  • jayriderjayrider Member Posts: 3,602
    ford edge seats seem well reviewed -- plus the elevated hip point makes it easier. My prius with leather seats is one of the best I've ever had and comes with lumbar support.
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    Check out Volvos and Saabs - they tend to have great seats but you'll need to be prepared for expensive maintenance and repairs when needed.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    edited January 2011
    I appreciated this post. We have checked out some of the same cars, altho you more than myself. I have just started my search and bad wx and my back has delayed my shopping. I find that when your back is inflamed, everything u sit in hurts. I also know from past experience the true test of a seat (which includes seating position behind the wheel) happens after at least 2 hours in the saddle. So a 4 hour round trip really tells the tale.

    I know about Volvo seats, but just don't trust the car. I hope it is fair and well founded. Actually, since being here at Edmunds for the past year or so, is where i have read the most uncomplimentary findings regarding Volvo dependability. I dare say I would trust a Saab more. One of the hosts here put over 235k on his Saab, he hasn't elaborated yet, but i got the impression they were relatively trouble free miles. Plus it was a turbo. Altho i do steer away from having to burn any hi-test gas no matter what i choose. I just don't believe that that extra umph from extra high CR are worth it. I don't need that much urge. Chev's Cruze has a turbo designed to run on 87. Altho...they also say to use 87 in their 4 cyl Equinox and it pings more than carboned up old 350 2 barrel V8, so not sure i trust them. If i were to go for the Cruze i would spend more time checking into the numbers surrounding engine design etc to then decide if i think it will be fine on 87 over the long haul. (I have some comments {pretty detailed} on the seats in the Cruze in the Cruze thread...too long to put here).

    Just a few days ago i was sitting in an Outback and an Impreza. Only recently i have read about the vibration issues on the hwy. Your comment just reinforced there must be something to it. I actually have some personal experience with that back when i had an XT6. The fix was a new driveshaft fr to rr. Ailment was at only 30k miles. So i was surprised to read this again now after all these years. What gives? And i have not heard of this for over a 2 decades till now.

    Finding a Scion in these parts isn't easy. I am curious about them tho. I would place a lumbar pad if the seat was great in all other respects.
    I find tho that when people comment on seats, it is a very personal thing that is determined by your body shape. If someone is trim and lean they may say such and such is the best seat ever. But in that same seat if you are over-weight, might be just terrible. I also find that there are seats that fit women, and then there are seats that fit men. What i am noticing tho in the last decade is that seat cushions/bottoms are getting shorter and shorter, so thigh support is rare real estate. (yes, if your spare tire is getting bigger, then it will make the seat cushion appear to be getting shorter, but i am already allowing for that).

    I am totally ok with firm seats if the support is there. The Cruze has very firm seats that fit me good except for a vey weird...what i would call almost an anomaly in their seatback shape at shoulder height.

    I'd like to comment further on your choices, but i have gone on too long here already in a car price thread. Thanks for your comments tho.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    I will go and check out an Edge thanks. Autos only no doubt. And FE might leave me a little wanting, but i don't drive much any more so...but gas will do nothing but go up.
    I find that seat position has a lot to do with it. I like when my legs fall down and away from me, rather than lay flat out in front. Minivans I find are usually the most comfortable to get in and out of and the seat position. If only i could get an AWD one about the size of a Rondo or Mazda5 with a 2.7 litre turbo dsl, (330 ft lb torque...6 5 or 6 sp std tranny...YAAA!) I'd be in heaven. I think I was never met to be born on these shores. I think in another life I'd like to be in EU where all the good stuff hides out.
  • jayriderjayrider Member Posts: 3,602
    One of the best seats I test sat was the Kia Soul. Ride was just ok but roomy interior. Elevated a bit as well.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    edited January 2011
    I'll check it out. It has a manual too. There was something about the Soul with the manual tho that left me a bit frustrated. Mighta been the lack of cruise or something like that. If i liked it tho, and if it was doable, i would install my own electronic cruise. I did it on my bike, so should be easy on the car since there is so much more room to place the parts. My concern tho is making too many assumptions regarding accessing the engine RPM wiring and brakelight wiring circuits. That is how the Audiovox 100 cruise works. Of course i know i can find those two circuits, but my concern in making assumptions, is that it would allow a tap in of a dif component without throwing off all the other electronic intervention on basically all modern cars.

    It works fabulously on my bike. Gives me two arms to stretch whenever i want.

    I am glad to know this, as I was going to go back to Kia to check out a Rondo. It looks like it has the seating position i like...drop away feet. It looks to be a bit top heavy tho, and it only gets 'ok' FE. I have heard tho that they apparently (the top V6 model which i don't want cuz i don't want a sunroof) are super quiet on the hwy and also has very little windnoise. I could give up some FE for that if it doesn't handle too top heavy. The 5 seater EX would be my choice. Still no manual tho sigh..plus it is the 4 speed in a world of 5 and 6 speeds. I think a 6 with their 2.4 DI engine would give the Rondo another 3 to 5 mpg average.

    When choosing AWD, (on a budget) there just aren't the vast choices there are if you can get home with 2 WD. Where I live there would be about 1 to 2 mo out of every year that i could only get within 700' of my fr door with 2WD :(
    We get about 4.5 months of full fledged winter here. The mild days or the days you come home and it has snowed 5 inches or more are the days that leave me with no go in 2WD. I have considerd inventing an easy on easy off set of chain or cables for the tires on 2WD. Which reminds me, i keep forgetting to Google what is out there on that fr these days. Need something that is super easy to put on without a lot of screwing around, but that has a very low profile so to not catch on fender wells and bits.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,499
    . . .what happened to bill and terry?

    Wow, you have been gone awhile! Both have been missing in action for years, though both made a few cameo appearances, but not for a very long time now.

    Volvomax was very helpful after Terry disappeared, but he's moved on as well. Things were very slack after that until gbrozen & his Galves access stepped in to fill the void -- doesn't help us out West much, but appears to have been very useful for those on the East Coast.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • blackcurrantblackcurrant Member Posts: 152
    Thank you,

    audia8q (Rich)was another general manager/owner type who knew the business well. Miss those guys. Miss the auctions too :cry:
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    Hi.
    Nope, not in the biz. Just shopping so much I bought a yearlong subscription and thought I'd help out here.

    Bill has been gone a very long time. He is back and working in North Jersey at a Toyota dealer, but doesn't have time for this. Terry took off ... oh... maybe a couple of years ago. I can't remember. I don't know his current status. Volvomax stepped in for a while, but he relocated to a different dealership and hasn't had time for this, either. Isell is retired (lucky [non-permissible content removed]), but still contributes (just no access to numbers).

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    edited January 2011
    They update their numbers weekly based on auction data and "input from their experts," according to their website. The online version is actually pretty cool in that you can plug a car's VIN in and get details that way, and you an also look at historical wholesale data for any vehicle.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • blackcurrantblackcurrant Member Posts: 152
    Thanks for letting me know!
  • corvettecorvette Member Posts: 10,237
    I'd give Volvo another look. The late model (but not current generation) XC70/90 and S80 have wonderful seats and are available with the low-pressure turbo 2.5T five-cylinder engine. It's not as refined as a six but I found it to be very powerful. Also, the 2.5T is reputed to be quite reliable.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    edited January 2011
    Ok, you know what? I absolutely will cuz they are AWD too right?

    I try to do all my own work, altho that might be past tense if i can't get my disc and pinched nerve fixed. So that might save me money. I assume Volvo parts are similar to VW tho cost-wise?

    Does it burn 87? I think they might be tuned for hi-test. I have no problems with a 5 cylinder. I love the sound of VWdubs 5 they put in the Golf. At the mall last summer i aprked beside one with the bike. While looking at my tires my ear was down near tailpipe level and u could its note, not a 4 and not quite a 5. To my ear tho, its sound is closer to a 6 than a 4.
    And i think they have a very sturdy AWD system? And what about their autos? I assume i can't get a std in one?

    I think what worries me about Volvo is all the other stuff that go wrong on them. I am going to spend some serious time though checking into them. Thanks for the opinion.

    Also I liked your post in the Truly Safe? thread too. We sorta have similar thoughts on stuff. Especially left lane bandits we call them up here in Cda, and fog lights when there hasn't been any fog for 8 months. I ride a bike, but i can still sympathize with your beef with straight-pipes. The Harley crowd are more involved with that than most...filling some gap in their mid-life crisis mode I guess. I wish they would be more considerate tho. Ok have a pipe if u must, but how about idling out of the drive early sunday morning instead of re-announcing what all your neighbours within 3 blocks already know, ya know?
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,439
    The V70 (aka XC70) has gotten to be pretty erliable. ANd if you buy new, they have 5 year warrantly and full maintenance coverage. As close to gas and go as you can get these days (I think they call it safe and sound coverage, but not sure it is the same in Canada.)

    Seats can't be beat, but no manual tranny, at least in the US.

    The LPT 5 cyl. can run on regular too.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    Actually, the AWD is a weak point in Volvos. I would avoid it. They are subject to angle gear failure thanks to a faulty seal. Just to fix the seal is $1800. If the angle gear actually fails? Oh... I don't remember exactly, but I believe its like $4k.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Ya thanks, been reading..there are other issues too, and is why it hasn't been on my shopping list since my SIL's sister had so many problems with her las two Volvos. Things she loved (hence the 2nd V purchase) and tings she didn't. It did seem to always be in the shop for something. I remember her telling us at a T Giving dinner one year when we commented on her 'new V. "That's not mine...that's the loaner", she said in a very drab, voice of concession. The poor girl..she told us that she had put more miles on the loaners than her own car in particularly troublesome 4 month period in year two of ownership.

    I had a 70? gosh I'm forgetting :( or 71? 144S. I had to put an engine in that car...I guess prev owner was not as diligent as i thought. To get the replacement, I nabbed a known good motor out of my best friends long retired rusted out 122 up on blocks at our farm. In the winter. Gosh i had energy back then...
    I went in to the back forty by snowmobile..and old dear 10 hp Olympic, dug it out, made a T Pee and winched the motor out. Got it onto the seat of the Olympic with my legs straddling it and got it back out to the main road and onto my little U trlr. Then motored back to the city to re and re again when i thawed out a few days later. The good ol' days eh? There was a story that went with that old motor I put in too, but for another day..

    But four things that stood out in memory I loved about that car. It had fantastic seats even way back then..(I wonder if it was a 69? hmmm) And the heater and defrost was fast, hot and well designed for cold northern winters. Great visibility, and while it was a bit of a leaner in corners, it was actually a pretty good rear wheel drive car in the winter. Gee I am recalling more good things too, huge trunk, lots of comfy room for 4 passengers etc etc. Oh...and wound out in 3rd (it was a 4 speed) was musical ecstasy. Had the CV carb intake wail of course..
  • rayainswrayainsw Member Posts: 3,191
    Though no current Volvos particularly appeal to me,
    I had a 144S [ 1969 ] and a 122S [ 1967 ]
    both bought [ well ] used - and the seats
    in the 122S were an absolute revelation
    for the time....
    - Ray
    Also had a PV544, while in college
    2022 X3 M40i
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Member Posts: 6,953
    Have the same back issues as you have plus herniations in the cervical area also, so I understand the difficulty of finding comfortable seats. Have resorted to sitting on a cushion I got at the Relax The Back store. Makes my Civic driveable for now. Tried a Volvo S40 and they sucked. Maybe a Volvo XC60 would fit the bill...a neighbor has this & says the seats are wonderful.

    I dread looking for a new car down the road due to the lack of back friendly cars out there in my price range. Now that I do about 2/3 less than I did last year, I won't be in the market again for at least another 5 or so years. Got 31k on the odo now & probably will only put on about 2500/year...so can wait until 2016 or later. Hope they provide the public with better seats before then! :confuse:

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)

  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Member Posts: 6,953
    I feel your pain...have same issues from my neck down to my feet due to an on the job injury back in 2005. Only someone experiencing this kind of debilitating pain can understand how it affects everything one does. Since retiring a few months ago, I hardly drive anymore cause of the pain. :sick:

    Gimmestdtranny, I feel your pain! Good luck on your search for a more back friendly car!

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)

  • jprocjproc Member Posts: 135
    regarding back pain about 5-6 years ago I had it really bad.Spent 6 months sleeping upright on a couch because I could not lay down.Tried to have an MRI to find out what was wrong and had to take 4 painkillers to do it.

    Eventually I ended up doing stretching and strength exercises and after a few months I was fine and Have been since.

    I feel for you-constant pain is horrible-perhaps physical theraphy (which is how i ended up with my exercises) will work for you also
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Member Posts: 801
    Consumer Reports shows the XC70 reliability as 'Above Average' for 2004-2007 models. CR rates the S60/V70 as 'Average' for 2005 and earlier, 'Above Average' for 2006 and 'Well Above Average' for 2007-2008 models.

    The S60 got an interior and exterior 'refresh' for 2005 and an redesigned front fascia for 2007. The 2007-2009 models are the best looking, IMO. 2005 was the last year that the base 2.4L non-turbo was standard. From 2006 onward the base engine was the 208hp 2.5L low-pressure turbo. The entry level model was designated the 2.5T. There is also a high-performance T5 version with a 247hp 2.4L turbo. Both engines are reliable, but the low-pressure 2.5T is the one I'd pick if I planned to keep the car for the long haul. My ex-wife has a 2004 V70 T5 and it has over 130k miles on it last time I checked. She originally wanted the 300hp AWD V70 "R" but I talked her into the T5 instead. The R was brand new that year and the combination of a newly designed 300hp engine and hi-performance AWD scared the hell out of me!

    Shortly after we started dating in 1995, she bought a 1993 Volvo 850 GLT. That was the first year for the 850 and it was Volvo's first FWD model (or at least the first one sold here). The transmission went at 80k miles and it was several thousand dollars for a new one. Thankfully she was still being funded by daddy when that happened and I didn't have to pay the bill! She traded it in 1999 for a new S70 T5 (which was the 850 with a face lift and a new name). It had 95k miles when we traded it in 2004 and it never needed a thing beyond basic maintenance.

    You might want to check out Volvo's Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) program which covers the car until 6-years or 100,000 miles from the original in-servce date. You'd need to get a 2007 or newer model to get much benefit from the warranty. A 2006 would expire some time next year when it hit the 6-year anniversary of it's original sale.

    Something else to keep in mind, if you're looking for the best value and a great deal- a lot of 2006-up S60 2.5T models were used in Hertz rental fleets as part of their Prestige Collection. I normally would be wary of a former rental car, but these cars weren't rented to the garden-variety customer. The rental rates were substantially higher and every one I've seen for sale after being in the program were in near-perfect condition. They were obviously treated with far more care than the average Corolla or (godawful) Sebring! =) The used car market is flooded with these models which translates into low prices! It's easy to find a 2007 S60 2.5T priced the same or even a bit less than a 2007 Honda Accord EX, despite the Volvo costing over $10,000 more when it was new!

    I almost forgot to mention the seats. As others have already mentioned, Volvo's seats (more like thrones) are the most supportive, comfortable seats that I've ever experienced. I had a two-level c-spine fusion in 2005 and the seats in my Accord made me miserable if I sat in them more than a few hours. I ended up with a migraine-like headache and my neck was in agony and radiated down my shoulders, arms and back. It was awful. But when I drove my ex-wife's V70, not a bit of discomfort or pain! I finally had to trade in my Accord for something with better seats. I ended up buying a 2006 Mazda3 s 5-door and the seats are still very supportive and comfortable for long periods of time. They're right on the line between very firm and HARD, which is the main difference between them and the Volvo seats. That and the Volvo has heated leather while my Mazda has non-heated fabric...it's not really cloth, more like nylon or something....but it does clean up with a wet rag and Windex! =)

    One more possible suggestion- a 2006-2009 Saab 9-5 also has fantastic seats. The Swedes apparently know something that the rest of the world hasn't figured out yet as far as how to make the perfect car seat! A cool feature that was optional on the 9-5 was seats that were both heated and ventilated (cooled). These models also suffered horrid depreciation, which sucks for the original owner but makes them a great used car deal! The design was pretty old by the time they finally ended it in 2009. It dates back to 1997 although it received numerous updates and face lifts along the way. The most recent and most extensive refresh was for the 2006 model year. Some love the looks, some hate it...same goes for the way it drives. I'm a fan, personally...although I don't really care for the ignition switch being between the seats....Saabs are weird, but mostly in a good way.
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Member Posts: 6,953
    We went that route about 5.5 years ago and they decided it was doing more harm than good, so we stopped it. Am now on pain meds which make life a bit more bearable, & will discuss a morphine pump to replace the oral morphine. Already have a device implanted in my butt that uses electric stimulation to confuse the pain neurons, but it's effectiveness has diminished greatly in the past 3 years. Will talk to my doc this week.

    Walking slowly with a cane or a walker is necessary for any mobility so a car with a super comfortable front seat is essential...my next car will require a power seat, as these are great to manipulate to lessen the pain while driving. Funny thing is I'm able to slide right over in my daughter's Versa and the seat ain't that bad...my Civic's worse & I drop down into it even with my Tempurpedic seat cushion. Will be fun when I do a search in about 5 or so years.

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)

  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    edited January 2011
    Lots of good info here, thanks. I have made note of your post and put it in my Volvo folder.

    As for CR. One of the things I have noticed with them is the very common theme of improving report cards on cars, the newer they are. Sometimes it will be due to to changes made to the car, but in some brands, change is not drastic from year to year. In this example you cite, the "Consumer Reports shows the XC70 reliability as 'Above Average' for 2004-2007 models. CR rates the S60/V70 as 'Average' for 2005 and earlier, 'Above Average' for 2006 and 'Well Above Average' for 2007-2008 models. " so of course 07 to 08 get the better report cuz they are the newer cars and don't have as many miles on them. I see this time and again with CR and to me, it really makes me question just how useful this part of their reports are. If they show an incessant 'engine' or tranny problem year after year with very little improvement over even a 7 or 8 year period, well that really tells us something. I used to study the trends in those reliability in CR years ago when I subscribed to it. CR also lost credibility with me when they point blank, do a Not Recommended on a vehicle with a higher centre of gravity rollover incidence greater than some of its competitors. Well sure...statistically I guess the numbers show a trend, but even still, i am not an advocate of blaming the car when the blame should be put on the driver.

    CR blacklisted the Suzuki Samurai due to roll over, and I have owned 3 of them., as have many friends. One short WB and two LWB models, and i can definitively tell you, that to roll of those over on the highway is due to operator error. You can roll almost anything over if you hook a wheel off the pavement at a place the shoulder is 4" lower and you try to jerk the car back onto the roadway.

    So while CR reporting does have its merits at times in helping you see problem trends, I don't hang off their every word.

    If you were going with AWD, would you still choose one of these S60's? The other member was saying that AWD was not one of their strong suites due to bad seal and bearing design. I got the impression, the same issue followed them around for quite awhile.

    My fuel mileage books here in Cda show all Volvos as requiring hi-test gas up to and incl 2007. My 08 book shows they all use 87 octane. So is 08 the first yr for the low pressure turbo? It must be. That would be my cut off point as I can't bring myself to buy anything that requires hi-test. Here, that is an extra 50 to 60 cent per gallon hit and in my opinion, cars like Volvo and Saab (even the NA ones) should not be designed to run on premium gas. They just aren't that quick a car to justify that financial penalty year after year.

    So on that same vein I see all Saabs are also hi-test gas :( and will be because all the models listed here are all turbos. Obviously not low pressure turbos. That is a real disappointment as I am not one of the people who are inclined to not trust a Saab. While I don't see the wisdom of having the ignition between the seats, where big heavy coats and scarves, seatbelts and wives purses are in the way, I would not not buy one because of that. The only reason they put it there was cuz they decided it was easier to lock the shifter from that location...but what about the s wheel then? I do love the idea of them having great seats also tho. But it seems wrong to have to pay that premium at the pump when all i want in those cars is the seat. Just checked, 08 and 09 both require hi-test so Saab has not gone the low-pressure turbo like Volvo did. And in 2010 it doesn't even list Saab in Cda.

    I do like that that S60 depreciated so drastically though. And I also respect that with both Saab and Volvo, there are so many models avail with a std tranny. No AWD in the Saab tho of course. Nissan made/makes still I think? a special limited-slip front end...forget what they called it. Couldn't get it on all models ..only higher end Maxima's etc i think. And i have read up a bit on VW's (forget the 3 letter acronym) system that brakes the wheel on ice to force torque to the one with traction, therby giving you true 2WD. I have often wondered if i could get by with that. But they have to be systems that are not part of power-reducing fuel-cutoff type TControls. There are times I can't get up my hill with AWD, until I turn that crap off. Rare, but about twice a year when it is really mild and lots of slush when i need fast road speed.

    I am totally ok with a hard seat as long as the shape and support is in all the right places. I am shocked that the Mazda seat was so much better than the Accord. It just goes to show you that a person can't assume a single thing among cars that normally would be considered very similar in some respects. Are you a normal width? I'm about 17" wide where my butt is, give or take, so fairly wide. I was able to get comfortable in my friend's 06 M Benz ML350, altho the leather seats were too slippery. But they had good support. But, they were no better than a 20 or 30 year old Volvo seat, amazingly enough. Not to my body shape anyway.

    While I will not tolerate expensive driveline issues that recurring in poor design that a brand refuses to address like yesterday, I wonder if I can justify an extra 60 cent/gal hit for the gas? But I don't drive as many miles as i used to, so maybe it would not be that big a deal. But what IS a big deal, (and I speak from experience cuz I used to deliver triaxle truck loads of gas to the gas stns) is that in most gas stns, the hi-test gas is considerably always older than the 87 octane gas, cuz it sits, due to so few sales in comparison...especially so in small towns when you are travelling in out of the way places, where very few cars pull up to require hi-test in farming community where F150's are the most common vehicle at the pumps. And also from experience, I can tell you that you may be paying for hi-test, but not necessarily be getting hi-test. Modern cars with anti-knock sensors can retard the timing so that you don't suffer the pre-ignition woes, but all that does is throw your fuel mileage in the dumper whilst doing so..

    Thanks again for your post. Some really good useful info with useful details and years to distinguish differences.
  • exb0exb0 Member Posts: 539
    Sandman, thank you for the advice. I tried a couple of cushions for lumbar support, and they don’t seem to help. In all fairness, my condition is not bad as yours. I had excruciating pain for three months, and then it progressively started to get better. Now, nine months later, I have some mild pain as long as I don’t do any physical activity. I can seat in my office chair, as long as I seat upright, and I can walk two miles up to three miles per hour with minimum pain or numbness in my leg. However, seating on a couch, or my wife’s CR-V, or lifting anything over 10 lbs, is a whole different story. Doctors keep on telling me that the pain will go away with time, I sure hope so.

    As far as Volvos, I am just scared of them. Expensive, questionable reliability, and average resale value. For the price of XC70, I can get base Acura MDX. MDX seats are also highly rated. I think I decided on Scion Xb. It is cheap, practical, and has high resale value (almost as good as CR-V). If it doesn’t work out, I can sell it or give it to my kids.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    My wife was experiencing lower back pain and an MRI revealed a bulging disc as well as some evidence of degenerative disc disease. PT has helped a great deal(as has following through with the recommended exercise and walking regimen). Having said all that, she ranks the seating comfort of the cars in my garage as follows:
    1. The BMW Sport Seats in my ti
    2. Mazda Sport Seats in my MS3
    3. Tie: Standard seat in her X3/Standard seat in my 2002
    4. Sahara seat in my Wrangler TJ
    I'll be interested to see how she likes the Recaros that I'm putting in the '02...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • woodywwwoodyww Member Posts: 1,806
    As others have already mentioned, Volvo's seats (more like thrones) are the most supportive, comfortable seats that I've ever experienced.....One more possible suggestion- a 2006-2009 Saab 9-5 also has fantastic seats. The Swedes apparently know something that the rest of the world hasn't figured out yet as far as how to make the perfect car seat....

    I've never owned a Volvo, but always liked them, & have driven a lot of 850's & V/XC/70's. I also owned a (pre-GM) Saab, with very nice seats, but the full size Volvo seats are the best. (The V40/50 cars & seats are not nearly as nice IMO).

    Like roadburner alluded to, bmw seats are at least "good", even the base seats. I have a bad back, & the base seats in my e39 5-series are fine, don't scream out "great seats!" like a V70, but never uncomfortable. The bmw sport seats can be great, depending on your needs/budget/back/body type.

    I remember M-B had an option in the 1990's & 2000's for "orthopedic" seats. Never drove an M-B with those, but sounded intrigueing. Most M-B seats I tried were not that great.

    For those with $$, Range Rover seats are very nice, but I always thought the V70 seats are "something else"......
  • jayriderjayrider Member Posts: 3,602
    Had bad back pain for years -- tried every thing --chiropractor about killed me. Seems my issue was anxiety not physical. Once I got the meds to deal with that --- everything got better. Back -- spasms--stiffness. those are common symptoms of general anxiety disorder. Won't help a bulging disc of course, but if anxiety is making is worse, may help some.
  • mldj98mldj98 Member Posts: 378
    Was looking for a little guidance on how to properly price my 4x4 Toyota pick-up.
    About a month ago I had a fight with a chain fence while driving my truck....the chain fence won........basically, trucks rear end slid out from behind me while entering a curve in the road and ended up hitting this fence........I ended up having to get a new hood, and two new fenders...and the grill. There was no damage whatsoever to the motor, tires, rims, under carriage......no frame damage.......just the sheet metal.
    So here is my question......how do I go about pricing the truck? It is a 2006 Toyota Double Cab 4x4 with the offroad package, 32K miles, silver, automatic transmission......I am the original owner...have all of the maintenance records.....all repairs were done at my toyota dealer using toyota parts.
    I used this website to obtain a trade in and private party price but how much should I expect to lose because of this body damage? (although it looks brand new now after the repairs) I plan on being fully honest about it when I go to sell it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    Have you pulled the carfax? I would just to make sure it doesn't say anything crazy on it.

    As for selling privately, it depends on how desperate you are. If you are $1500-$2k under a clean one, that would probably be enticing enough for some buyers.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • mldj98mldj98 Member Posts: 378
    I have not pulled a carfax as of yet.....but more than likely it will say "accident".....I did however ask the body shop if this will show up on carfax and they told me that they were not sure how or what criteria an accident has to fall under before it will show up on the carfax report.

    As to taking the $1500-$2000 less......sounds a little steep.....but not unreasonable I guess........
    Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    edited January 2011
    Put it this way ... if you had to choose between 2 vehicles, and 1 was clean and the other a bad carfax ... how much extra would you pay for the clean one? I don't think 10% is out of line, personally, but its going to come down to the buyer, really. And if it was something like a luxury car, you are talking more like 15-20%.

    Carfax is far from accurate, but they have a strong marketing campaign and buyers will look to it. Sometimes it is very specific as to the type of accident. Hopefully, yours reports accurately so it doesn't scare anyone off.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Honestly I think the difference is much greater, depending upon what exactly is revealed.

    I came across a used Lexus once that was half the market value, but didn't have a clear title. My guess is it was flood damaged.
  • mldj98mldj98 Member Posts: 378
    the title will be free and clear.....it is not going to have a salvage title......
    it was just a typical midwestern winter fender bender......
    again...the damage was just to the sheet metal....not the engine, frame, or any other mechanical part......heck not even the radiator, or even the windshiled wash fluid tank was damaged......
  • houdini1houdini1 Member Posts: 8,327
    edited January 2011
    There is quite a bit of difference in a fender bender and not having a clear title !!
    That is a very popular truck in a popular configuration. Should bring top dollar.

    2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460

  • mldj98mldj98 Member Posts: 378
    That is what my thought was......especially since I have such low miles on it.
    I looked around on the various sites (autotrader, cars.com, etc) to see what was out there and for sale and most if not all have twice as many miles on the truck as to what I have on mine.
    I think what will be on my side is that I am the original owner, have all maintenance records, all repairs were made by a toyota dealership, and heck I will even take the truck down to the dealership and have them give it the once over just to satisfy a potential buyers concerns that the truck is what I say it is.......again, I do realize that because it has had body work that I need to take a hit on it.....but how much? that is what my original question was........thanks for all of the input......look forward to hearing more opinions.......
    thanks
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    People will pay stupid money for Tacomas. I doubt you'll take much of a hit if you're straight up with everyone. I had a '95.5 Tacoma at one time and had no trouble finding a sucker...I mean buyer. I see the older ones sell for nutso money with 200k-300k miles even with the frame rust issues.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    As houdini said, we're talking about a whole different situation here. Cosmetic damage is not going to hurt it like a salvage title or frame damage history would.

    I'll stick by my 8-10%. COULD you find someone to pay full price? Sure! You just have to either get lucky or wait around for that buyer.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,200
    I wouldn't go with the assumption that I had to discount my price.. It's a five year old vehicle... probably 50% of those have body repairs..

    You have a nice truck with no structural problems... if the body repair was done correctly, it shouldn't have much of an impact on price... Be upfront, when people ask you if it's been in an accident (because they will ask). Start with the typical private party asking price... If you get a live one, maybe cut it $1000 under what you would have taken, otherwise...

    It's a Toyota pickup, not a Mercedes... and, it's an '06, not an '09..

    Aim high... ;)

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  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    edited January 2011

    It's a Toyota pickup, not a Mercedes... and, it's an '06, not an '09..


    Much as I hate to disagree with a distinguished host...

    It's in discussions like these that I miss Terry. He had this really funny way of breaking people's hearts and bring the cold, hard truth home to them.

    I think that y'all have a point that an '06 Tacoma is a sought-after car that people will pay way too much money for... but there's definitely gonna be a hit from the body work. Even without the carfax.

    Any used-car manager worth his salt will be able to spot the paint work from 50 feet away... and so will everyone at the auction that he might have to take it to if doesn't flip quickly enough.

    Yeah it wasn't frame work, yeah it happens a lot, but there's questions... who did the work? How's it going to hold up? Were OEM parts used. When all panels are original, you know what you're dealing with, and the truck is worth more. That's not really up for discussion.

    So I think qbrozen is right with his estimate on the hit.

    I do find it amusing when people come here for expert advice, and immediately disagree with it if it doesn't suit them.

    Butno matter, somebody will pay way too much money for this truck and have car payments 'til it's 10 years old.. of course, that's not the seller's problem. Want a Tacoma? Buy it new.

    There, I feel much better.

    Cheers -Mathias
  • mldj98mldj98 Member Posts: 378
    I would like to thank the host for responding to my post.....also would like to thank everyone else as well.....nice to hear some opinions from different angles.....
    steine13.....not sure what you mean by your statement...
    "I do find it amusing when people come here for expert advice, and immediately disagree with it if it doesn't suit them"......
    Your statement is funny to me because I am the one with the truck and have not disagreed with any posting as of yet.....not even yours.....
    What I can tell you is this.....a new 2011 Toyota Tacoma just like mine, equipped the same will cost you around $30-$32K....give or take a few $$.
    Now....even if you put my truck next to the new 2011 you will be hard pressed to see a difference.....on the exterior, the only thing that has really changed is the tail lights.....on the interior, there is even less of a change.
    So then it comes down to this.....is it worth $10-15K in savings to buy a used truck then to buy a new one....that is a qustion that will have many different answers....allot will depend on how deep ones wallet is......what I can tell you is this.....all parts (again, basically all sheet metal) are genuine toyota parts.....all work was done by a certified toyota dealership body shop....all sheet metal is stamped with the toyota part#'s....I have all maintenance records......serviced every 3K miles although the toyota maintenance plans call for 5K service intervals.......I plan on being totally up front about the damage....heck I will even tell them the name and number of the body shop if they want to get very specific info on the damage...I have nothing to hide.......everyone knows these truck will run well into the 200-300K mile range with little effort....especially if you do regular maintenance.......but at the end of the day it is real simple........it comes down to what one is willing to pay versus what I am willing to let it go for...
    I am willing to take a hit on this truck.......but based on what is out there, versus the condition of my truck......I think supply and demand will dictate how much of a hit that I must take....
    Thanks again for your comments....
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