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Chrysler Town and Country EX/LX/LXi/Limited

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Comments

  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    You have a problem since my less expensive 2002 T&C LX has all controls lit on front doors, dash, and the radio. (radio dial and ALL controls for the radio). The power door lock controls and power window controls are lighted as are the power heated outside rear view mirror controls on left side of dash. The complete overhead console controls are also lighted.

         On some minivans, the controls on the doors are not lighted...but most DC minivans have them light up at night when either the headlights or parking lights are turned on.
  • tekemeeetekemeee Member Posts: 2
    How do I check and see what the problem is - is there a fuse that I can check? I have got to figure this out because it is dangerous to be driving and trying to turn on a light to change the radio station.
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    I do not know since everything on my 2002 T&C LX works perfectly.

        Did you get an owner's manual with the 2002 LXi? If not, I will look in my owner's manual to research the situation. Good luck.
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    Page 338 of my 2002 Chrysler Town & Country Owner's Manual has a diagram and written information about the Integrated Power Module (IPM) which is located in the left side of the engine compartment near the battery. This center contains fuses and relays. A label that identifies each component is printed on the inside of the cover.

        It has a " CAUTION! "

    .When installing the Integrated Power Module cover, it is important to ensure the cover is properly positioned and fully latched. Failure to do so may allow water to get into the IPM, and possibly result in a electrical system failure.

    .When replacing a blown fuse, it is important to use only a fuse having the correct amperage rating. The use of a fuse with a rating other than indicated may result in a dangerous electrical system overload. If a properly rated fuse continues to blow, it indicates a problem in the circuit that must be corrected.

         The Heated Mirrors, Lower Instrument Panel Power Outlet and Removable Floor Console in in the front position are fused with self resetting fuses that are only serviceable by an authorized dealer. The power seats are fused by a 30 Amp circuit breaker located under the instrument panel near the steering column. If you experience temporary or permanent loss of these systems seek an authorized dealer for service.
  • sylecsylec Member Posts: 7
    Hey all, I've been looking for some thing on this subject but have not seen anything close to it, so pardon if it's a repost...

     

    I just purchased a 1999 T/C Limited, and am quite pleased with the new car. I had it checked out prior to purchasing it and the only thing that came up on the ODBII scanner was that the battery needed to be replaced (still had original Mopar bat.).

     

    I replaced the battery today with a new Gold Series Duralast. I was a bit worried about disconnecting the battery and running into problems with any (if any) security features that may be on the van. I still am not up to speed with what features come with the vehicle. I decided to run the van while I changed the battery, but upon disconnecting the battery the vehicle turned off.

     

    Since the car was off now and the battery cable was disconnected, I just swapped the old bat. with the new and it started right up. I had the alternator checked and it's putting out 13.9vdc and that seems to be normal.

     

    My question is, is there a feature that will shut the vehicle down if the battery is disconnected? I now know that it is not wise to disconnect the battery on newer cars (ok on 70's models maybe), and it could cause the peak voltage from the alternator ( up to 40v ) and cause serious damage on other electrical components.

     

    Any wealth of knowledge on this is appreciated.
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Member Posts: 249
    It is definetly not wise to change batteries while the engine is running period. With all the microprocessors in these new vehicles, I'm even leary on giving or receiving a jump-start. What code told you you needed a replacement battery? I agree that after 6 years you are on borrowed time, but the only thing that you would have lost is the clock and radio pre-sets.
  • sylecsylec Member Posts: 7
    I can't remember what code the mechanic read, but the battery did die on my wife once. I have heard that with vehicles today will draw a small charge from the battery for use of the computer and security system. So running on an old bat. is just asking for problems.

     

    I also found some sort of on board "key-on diagnostics". I'm not sure if this is coming from the on-board computer or what. Does anyone know about this. Here is what I did...

     

    1. Hold down the trip and cancel buttons on the dashboard.

    2. turn the key to the "ON" position (do not start).

    3. the mileage will display the trip distance... press the trip button once and a code will start to flash.

     

    My van just flashed 55. On my old Dodge Intrepid this meant it was the end of the diagnostics and no error was found.

     

    Is this the same as the old Dodge code? I doubt it , but if anyone has the codes please post.

     

    Thanks.
  • marine2marine2 Member Posts: 1,155
    "My question is, is there a feature that will shut the vehicle down if the battery is disconnected?"

     

    I don't know of any car that will run with the battery disconnected. You need fuel and electricity to run it. Disconnecting the battery takes care of one. How else can you get fire to the plugs?
  • sylecsylec Member Posts: 7
    Well, my thought at first was that the car should have kept running and use the voltage created by the alternator. On my older cars, disconnecting the battery was no big deal. But with today's cars I just don't know what is dependent on the battery. I was a bit worried that I had a problem due to the fact that this is the first car that has ever shut off on me while I did this. With so many electronic components on this van and now knowing the risk of disconnecting the battery, I don't think I'll be doing this again. :P
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Member Posts: 249
    Sylec is correct. Older cars, once started, the battery could be tossed, and all electrical power would be supplied by the generator or alternator. I once had a battery explode on me, due to the lack of a battery tie-down (shorted to ground against hood). I was able to resume my trip without a battery. That was in a 1965 Chevy. With all the electronics in today's cars, the battery acts also acts as a huge capacitor to absorb voltage spikes. So many sensors, one probably to shut down vehicle if no battery is detected.
  • goinnowherefasgoinnowherefas Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a 1998 T&C Lxi with 95000 miles. It has begun to make a creaking and groaning sound from driver side front. I am inclined to believe it is a bad spring or strut but I am not mechanically knowledgable to identify the exact source of the problem or what I should be looking/listening for to narrow it down. Any help would be appreciated. I just retired my 86 plymouth voyager with 226000 miles and hope to get at least 600000 more out the T/C.
  • sylecsylec Member Posts: 7
    I'm no big time mechanic and don't claim to be one, but I've done my share of replacing parts and dismantling my old vehicles.

     

    First, how does the car "feel". Is it "bouncy" when going through road dips or bumps?

     

    Two, Does it make the noise only when you go over something or when you make turns?

     

    Three, Have you noticed a "Wobble" during turns?
  • tomtomtomtomtomtom Member Posts: 491
    Make: CHRYSLER

    Model: TOWN AND COUNTRY

    Year: 2001

    Type: MULTIPURPOSE PASSENGER VEHICLE

    Service Bulletin Number: 1900801

    NHTSA Item Number: 628194

    Summary Description:

    EXPERIENCING A POP/TICK SOUND HEARD COMING FROM THE STEERING WHEEL AREA WHILE THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION. *TT

     

    or you can go to here for more information:

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm
  • jamesdodge99jamesdodge99 Member Posts: 1
    have 99 t/c limited only 3 months while drive dash gauges and digital gear miles goes out will drive fine lights will come back on later but then after few days or weeks van wont start had check out cant find noth wrong this is intermitented prob it always resets itself in few days if anyone knows what wrong please tell me thanks
  • md69md69 Member Posts: 4
    I bought a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country Lxi on January 5 along with an 8 years/100,000 mile certified pre-owned maximum care plan. Has anyone had any experience with this maximum care package or any of the certified pre-owned plans? It now appears from a call to Chrysler that mine actually covers much less than is represented in the brochure. Presently it appears to be more of a sham or scam than a plan.
  • jimk3jimk3 Member Posts: 10
    Probably not bad questions, altough a bit too late as we already bought the car. It has not been repainted, and I did get a clean carfax report. It was only the all wheel drive badge and they put it on for us.
    The radio controls must be a design flaw, as the exact same thing happened in my Liberty which has the same radio (the balance button splits, then comes off)

    Anyway - we've had the van for three months now and drove 4000 miles. It's a smooth ride and has plenty of space. Last week I heard the brakes sqeaking a little, and later in the week the sound was gone, but the ABS light came on a few times.

    I took in in to the dealer for maintenance thinking I needed new brake pads.
    Thurs out I did not need brake pads, but a speed sensor for one of the wheels? Also, during regular maitenance they discovered a small leak in the water pump and replaced it.
    Total bill for waterpump, maitenance(A=$95), speed sensor, excluding labor to install the speed sensor because it wasn't in stock - $438,-

    Car has 41000 miles.
    I thought this was expensive and was wondering if I could have gone out to buy the parts at autozone and have a local garage install them. I found water pumps for around $50! I paid al least double that ($218 installed)

    any thoughts?
  • marlynemarlyne Member Posts: 1
    I have a remote start on my van. Today when I got out to my van after starting it, I could not turn the key. I removed it and tried again manually to start it. It still would not turn. We are trying to repair it ourselves. Any help would be appreciated,
  • deacon1deacon1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Town & Country Limited (single owner). During a recent long trip several lights on the rear wiper controls and heater/AC controls came on ramdomly. I also noticed that the controls will no longer select where the air blows (e.g. defrost, face, feet, etc.). I check all fuses. Any help would be appreciated.
  • scarpwiscarpwi Member Posts: 3
    I have a new 2005 T&C LX just got it from out of state dealer (long story). I plan to camp with the van and we plug in the lights to our little pop up camper but the power outlets are switched. How exactly can I get the rear power outlet to be on all the time. I can find the fuse block, but moving which fuse from where to where? Any place I can get more detail? I have called two dealers and they don't know what to do (or just want me to bring it in). Thanks!
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Under the hood is a fuse box next to the battery, open it up and look for a 20 amp fuse at the top center right of the fuse box next to the battery. You will notice this fuse has only two blades but the fuse position has three slots. Move this fuse from the position marked "ign" to the positon marked "batt" and some of the outlets will be powered even when the car is off. This includes outlets in the floor mounted consoles, passenger side second row outlet, and the lower outlet of the two on the center console next to the drivers right leg. A word of caution, dont leave anything that will draw a lot of power plugged in if the van will be sitting for days as it will drain the battery.
  • scarpwiscarpwi Member Posts: 3
    Hi - Do you know which fuse specifically to move where to get the "always on" for the power outlets? Thanks!

    Steve Carpenter
  • scarpwiscarpwi Member Posts: 3
    Sorry for my earlier question sir... I had not seen this response. Thanks so much for your help & advice... I'll try it tonight! God bless
  • ccundiffccundiff Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 T&C LXI. I experienced the same problem with our van. Several times the van would start and shut right off. Took it to several mechanics each time it would happen. None of them could figure out what the problem was. I took it to the dealer and they changed the ignition recall switch. I have never had the problem again. I have 155,000 on my T&C. That is the only problem I have ever had, except for routine maintenance. I am pretty anal about preventative maintenance.
  • firedfired Member Posts: 1
    2002 town and country, while the motor is running the interior and headlights pulsate getting brighter and dimmer. twice the headlight got so dim while driving we thought they were going out, dealer replaced headlight switch, checked grounds, replaced control module not they say this is normal condition
  • kmarkskmarks Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2001 T/C Lxi and had no floor console. I purchased a console but not sure if carpet needs cut and will I find wires in the way.
  • marine2marine2 Member Posts: 1,155
    I bought a floor console for my 2005 DGC at Pep Boys for about $48.00. Has room for four cups, two front and two back. Has tissue holder both front and back. Has a big covered compartment that has a sliding lockable lid and a tray on top to hold things like your cell phone, keys, map, etc. You can screw it to the floor or just leave it sit between the two front seats.(That is what I do, as I can move it out of the way if the wife wants to get up and walk back.) Looks like it came with the van and didn't cost even a third of what a factory console would.
  • djr1djr1 Member Posts: 1
    we have a 97 that has started randomly stalling when it is driven at low speeds or is slowing down. Runs fine at highway speeds. It just completely shuts down--no noises, no hesitations, just quits. It always starts back up immediately.

    Anyone have any experience with this type of problem and have any suggestions as to what might be causing it?

    Thanks
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Have the throttle body cleaned, or do it yourself.This will make van idle smoother and usually stops stalling unless some other engine glitch exists. Its a inexpensive way to eliminate the possibility of a dirty throttle body causing the problem.
  • ohio_hohio_h Member Posts: 2
    With all the write-ups about the possibility of the trans going out on older models of the T&C with 80k plus miles, i am thinking of purchasing one with a very good interior and exterior (hopefully at a great deal) and spend the extra $$ and time putting in a rebuilt trans. I would prefer the Limited or the LXi b/n '99 - '02.

    Any ideas on how to search and go about securing one?
    Thanks.
  • njeraldnjerald Member Posts: 689
    EBAY!!

    Largest Car Dealer in the US.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    If you look on the homepage http://www.edmunds.com/, on the right in the Used box you can type in your zip code and then look for the vehicle for sale in your area.

    Good luck!
  • ohio_hohio_h Member Posts: 2
    great ideas. thanks for the input!!!
  • bzkingbzking Member Posts: 1
    Just wondering if you found a remedy. I have the same problem with my 2001 T&C LXI. The dash lights went out about 4 months ago.
  • rfeltnerrfeltner Member Posts: 2
    My 1999 T&C limited would not start, however, did test the battery which showed 12 volts and the windows, radio, lights, etc., were working. When turning the ignition, I heard one initial click, but not like a continual click when a battery is dead. In addition, I had this van serviced last week due to the check engine light coming on. Service station stated it was a bad connection and cleaned the lines. Additionally, upon putting the car into gear, either into reverse or drive, from park position, the car hesitates and then jumps into gear. This seems to happen in cold weather especially. Any help would be most appreciated.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    My guess is your starter is going out on your first problem, though your battery could be going as well.

    On your hesitating to go into gear, our 1996 Caravan developed a problem that sounds similar to yours though it never "jumped into gear", it just hesistated to change without a wait and some jiggling of the shifter lever., A simple adjustment to the gear shift cable and linkage into the transmission under the hood by the dealer service shop fixed it.
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    rfeltner, you might also want to ask your question in the "No Start" Problems discussion.

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  • rfeltnerrfeltner Member Posts: 2
    Thanks badgerfan! You were absolutely right...it was the starter. I do love my Town and Country, but it has been costly as of late with new brakes all around, having the check engine light turned off, and now the starter all since Febraury! Thanks again.
  • chaberlychaberly Member Posts: 2
    I have a mystery noise on my 2000 Town and Country minivan - 3.8 Liter 6 cyl, when the air conditioner compressor clutch engages, there is a loud rattling noise, since the noise is only present when the compressor clutch is engaged.. it must be the compressor clutch assembly! I replaced the compressor/clutch and the noise is still present. The noise started on the new assembly just as soon as I added enough freon to engage the clutch. I am thinking that I may have gotten a bad compressor/clutch assembly from the parts store or do I have something else going on, maybe the water pump. Remember, I only hear the loud noise when the compressor is running. Is this a common problem with the Town and country compressor/ clutch? That might explain why the one I got from the parts store may have been bad? Any ideas?
  • marine2marine2 Member Posts: 1,155
    Could try and take the fan belt off if it is not a serpentine belt and see if the rattle is still there. Check the wheel on the A/C and make sure there is no play in it. It also could be something lose close to the A/C that rattles when it starts up.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    One serpentine belt drives all accessories on the 3.3 and 3.8 V-6. Also, fans are electric, not belt driven, which is nearly universal these days.

    Might be some other component such as the tensioner pulley that is bad, but this is just a guess.
  • chaberlychaberly Member Posts: 2
    Found the noise - the flywheel assy had a crack in it. The load of the A/C caused it to vibrate when the engine was at idle.
  • pemoyepemoye Member Posts: 1
    We've had the same problem with our 2001 T&C. We've had it in the shop at least 6 times, usually for 2 to 4 weeks at a clip. We've replaced the battery twice. They have rewired the VCR (didn't correct the problem) and today got it back with a rewired door (have serious doubts if this will fix it). The thing we have in common with you is that we don't typically drive the car long distances and sometimes it sits idle for 2 or 3 days (after which the battery is almost always dead). I can tell you that you can buy a handy gadget called the Jump and Carry which has kept us from exhausting our AAA benefits for jump starts (we park it in a garage and of course the jumper cables don't reach). When I pressured the maintenance manager at our local dealership about what he would do if it was his car, he said after some hesitation, "You probably could get a decent price for it if you sold it or traded it in." I'd sure like to hear if anyone else has had this problem.
  • onewayoneway Member Posts: 2
    I experienced almost the same problem tonight. The only difference was that the lights didn't go on on their own, they just went dead. What was the cause / solution?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Glad you found the problem and thanks for posting the solution. It helps other people who may experience the same problem, when someone actually posts the solution to a problem they have had.
  • cessna1cessna1 Member Posts: 1
    Neither of my Power Outlets work. The fuses under the hood and under the instrument panel seem fine, but it doesn't have the IGN-BATT 3-slot fuse suggested in the previous post 1825. Any ideas?

    I have a 99 T&C AWD LXI. FYI, Its a quirky beast, and seems poorly designed with an under-sized suspension. The brakes and rotors were done at 30K, new front end bushings at 50K, new tires at 60K. Not a lemon, but it will be expensive to keep. :cry:
  • njeraldnjerald Member Posts: 689
    What's wrong with tires at 60,000 miles?

    My 2001 needed brakes and front rotors at 45,000. Tires are still ok for another year.

    My 2001 Service manual says the power for the fuses to thePower outlets comes through an accessory relay which is located in the "Intelligent Power Module" under the hood. Your 1999 may be the same.
  • jorgysjorgys Member Posts: 1
    Hi. We just purchased our -01 T&C Ltd and love it! However we noticed that it is started something that we don't like....when idling at a stop sign or stopped there is a catch in it's idle. It's not smooth and almost seems like it could die if it was a little worse. This catch up wasn't there when we test drove it and so we're not sure if it's bad gas or what!

    Any ideas or has anyone experienced this???

    Thank you!
  • thethumperthethumper Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 T&C Limited and having troubles with the radio for about the past year. It is the Radio with the Cassette and 4 disc CD player. When it first started acting up whenever you would adjust the equalizer the sound would "pop", cut-out and then after a second come back on. Now my wife says that it when she turns on the radio about half the time it will just sit there and go "pop", "pop", "pop". Sometimes it will eventually start playing. The "pop" sound is the speaker, not electrical in nature and I know there is a recall for some radios but I don't think this is one of them. Anybody else experience anything like this?
  • puddleduckpuddleduck Member Posts: 1
    My wifes 2003 Town and Country LXi quit running, dealer says the "power control module" is fried. They tell my they have good info.......its covered under warranty,.... then the bad info.......... it is on National Backorder!!! I understood their problem and that it may take a while. But when I asked who I needed to talk to about getting a loaner........ they said ....."we dont do that" After a 45 minute talk (mostly hold time) with a "customer service rep" they told me they would provide a car for 5 days. I asked what after 5 days and the van was still not fixed. They said "5 days is all we can do" The service guy at my dealer (who was very nice) said he did not think the part could possibly be obtained, much less put on in 5 days. What do you do? How do you talk to someone up in Chrysler that gives a darn about service? I had a Ford f250 that totally dropped the transmission at 31,000miles..... not only did Ford give me a truck to drive while they got the new trany, They delivered it to me! This car I get from Chrysler for 5 days, I must take my wife to the rental car agency to get........ then return.
    This really sux........... please if anyone has knowledge of how to get in touch with someone at Chrysler..... it would be greatly appreciated
  • marine2marine2 Member Posts: 1,155
    http://www.chrysler.com/owners/index.html

    You might want to try this site. On the left hand side, you will see where it says Contact Chrysler. Hope they can help.
This discussion has been closed.