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Chrysler Town and Country EX/LX/LXi/Limited

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Comments

  • 97xpresso97xpresso Member Posts: 249
    I've read that reset of needle(s) can be achieved withou pulling the dash:
    " You might want to enter the cluster Self Test Mode to reset and recalibrate the guages. With the ignition OFF and the key out, hold down the TRIP button on the cluster until the Sof 3.2 or whatever displays in the odometer. The cluster will then issue any and all cluster Trouble Codes, and make the guage needles dance"
  • duck2duck2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 chrysler T & C LXI and the blower motor runs all the time when the engine is running. The power button has no effect except to change it to recirculating air,it will not turn the blower off. I replaced the fan relay, it still works the same as before,did not fix it.
    Any help would be appreciated.
    duck2
  • pfutzpfutz Member Posts: 7
    My Town and Country Van's battery recently had to be jumped. Once I jumped it and it started the stereo won't turn on. The equilizer lights blink and that is it. Does the stereo need to be "reset" somehow?
  • emerywdemerywd Member Posts: 1
    My 99 TC is doing same.,..when going slow or stopped to get gas or at stop light, temp goes all way to H and alarm comes on. When moving, temp goes down to normal. I have replace the fan relay sensor four times, and that corrects problem for a while, but the relay keeps breaking. I also replaced fans, as I was told this might short out relay. Still the relay switch for fan breaks. Also replaced thermostat as one of the hot episodes demolished it. What to do next????? I have spend nearly 1K on repairs. :mad:
  • jfz219jfz219 Member Posts: 63
    I test drove the Limited with and without the trailer package. The standard Limited suspension has the load leveling feature. We found the trailer package to be slightly harsher than we liked. We went with the standard and are pleased with the ride quality and control both empty and loaded.

    I recommend testing both before you buy. In my '94, '96, '98, and '01, I have never had a cooling problem. Steering racks and pumps are a different story. I recommend the current TSB for fluid change ASAP.
  • rob69rob69 Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem on my 96, getting ready to sell the vehicle & want to repair it....did you ever receive any replies for this? Robert RMo8235376@aol.com
  • rob69rob69 Member Posts: 3
    When the air & heat control is turned on, there is a thumping noise for 5 seconds near the glove compartment,,,,,,,how do I acess this area to look for a bad belt or pulley?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    The serpentine drive belt and pulleys are all accessed in the engine compartment, under the hood.
  • mismailimismaili Member Posts: 16
    Has anyone experienced thier van not starting without any reason, then after sitting for more than 24 hrs, apparently resetting, starting up as if nothing. Dealer stated it was the Computer. Replaced the computer and still have the same issue.
  • mismailimismaili Member Posts: 16
    Hi, has anyone replied to your issue, my 99 t/c will for no reason, not start, sit for more than 24 hours, then start up again. I have replaced the Computer per the dealers reccommendation, but still have the same issue.
  • davetsdavets Member Posts: 1
    2000 Limited T&C with 74,000 miles. Doors lock and unlock randomly whether the vehicle is running or not, moving or not. I cleaned the battery connections and the battery is newer. We don't use the key to lock or unlock the door but could a disarm switch still be bad? We've only had the vehicle a couple months and haven't done anything to it other than have the tranny flushed. Any ideas?
  • tysons4tysons4 Member Posts: 5
    Hi - Just purchased a lovely white 2002 T&C AWD and would appreciate knowing if anyone has any good links to Parts/accessories other than mopar.com.

    Thanks!
  • lecorlecor Member Posts: 2
    Where to begin, but I'll make it brief. Our 2001 Chrysler Town & Country died at 41,000 miles. We had it in to the dealership for a blown air conditioner in May 2005 and mentioned that we also had problems with the car dying for no apparent reason other than acceleration or deceleration (usually in the summer here in AZ where it's over 100). They replaced the air conditioner (under warranty) but the dying problems got worse. Unfortunately, no codes were thrown until yesterday when the engine light came on (first time ever) and the car died. We had it towed to the dealership and we're hoping they'll get to it soon. This van has had all its maintenance and regular oil changes. Any ideas? Anyone else had this problem?
  • mismailimismaili Member Posts: 16
    Please tell me what the dealer says, my 99 T&C ltd. would not start after working fine. Sit for 24 hrs. then start. Began happening more frequently, Dealer recommended Computer. Changed the computer, happened more often till now where it hasn't started in 4 days. Tommorrow I will have it towed to a different dealer who state their a 5 Star dealer. (whatever that means) I saw a thread for the ignition switch, tried a new switch without success. You may contact me at mizafer@yahoo.com. Good luck
  • krw62krw62 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem and dealer has never heard of this happening before. It seems if you take the battery cables off and leave it sit for a while I don't have to wait 24 hrs. Very frustrating. Let me know if you found anything out. You can reply to krw62@yahoo.com
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    Since this discussion is for the features, attributes, etc. of the T&C, you might get more feedback on your problems where other T&C owners are discussing theirs:

    Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems

    MODERATOR

    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review

  • shmillershmiller Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on the same vehicle. It was the keyless entry fob. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts. Solved the problem. - Steve
  • jimwilliejimwillie Member Posts: 1
    Today my TC started and died immediately, did this 3 times then it would not turn over.
    Called AAA and guy checked battery fuses etc. Said it was probably the starter or relay. He called tow truck to take to my mechanic. Tow driver backs up to van and gets my key to straighten wheels; turns key and van starts. I drive around park lot and start 2 more times. No more problems today!
    Any ideas?
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    Sounds like you need some help from the fine folk at Hogwarts. ;)
    Seriously, electrical problems can be VERY difficult to diagnose and correct.
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    Jimwillie,

    You might want to ask the folks in our Maintenance & Repair discussions. There are topics for "no-start problems" and "electronic gremlins" there, where the members might have some insights into your problem.

    MODERATOR

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  • rob69rob69 Member Posts: 3
    Do you think changing the serpentine belt would eliminate the noise,,,,it is showing signs of wear.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    It's hard to diagnoses noises over the internet!

    If your serpentine belt is worn certainly it can generate noise, but whether replacing it will get rid of your "thumping" noise, I don't know. Turning on the AC engages the AC compressor and adds load to the serpentine belt, so there could be some interaction, I suppose.
  • rex4rex4 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the information. I have a 2002 T&C that is having this problem. Where is the drain tube located and how do I access it? Is this an easy fix?
  • nuchryslerownrnuchryslerownr Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2002 T&C limited, the passenger power sliding door will pop open but will not go back but will close okay (some times it works fine "intermitten"). Is this a common problem and how can it be fixed?
  • sbuddhsbuddh Member Posts: 1
    This is an old post but i am having exactly the same problem with my T&C 2000 at 46K miles. AAMCO tried fixing it for 4 weeks before they could fix and it did work for a week but i had to send it in today morning once again. Please let me know how did it go with Chrysler - i have a warranty with third party company and not directly with chrysler.
  • curiosity2curiosity2 Member Posts: 1
    I'm experiencing the similar problem on my 94 T & C. The temp. gauge went all the way up when idling or going slow. It gets cool down on highway speed. In the pass when I turn on the AC, the fan will continue to run to keep it cool. But this time, the fan doesn't continue to run. It only ran for a few seconds then shut off, and continue the same patern. Any suggestion here? I have replaced the thermal stat, coolant temperature sensor, and the radiator cap. I will double check the fuse, and the radiator fan relay switch for the time being. Thank you very much for any suggestion or comments. :shades:
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    Chrysler power sliding doors are much better designed than those on the Odyssey or Sienna since Chrysler power sliding doors work as easily without power as do the manual sliding doors on any minivan. ;)
    After looking more closely at my friend's new 2006 Sienna LE, I find that the Chrysler minivans have much better controls for the stereos and A/C. It baffles me why CR complains about Chrysler controls but my feelings are that CR loves to badmouth DaimlerChrysler even when Chrysler design is superior to their beloved Japanese brands.
    It annoys me that DC deleted many nice features contained on my low end 2002 T&C LX model. The 2006 T&C Limited does not look as luxurious as the interior of the 2006 Sienna LE even though the T&C Limited has an MSRP of almost $10,000 more than the Sienna LE. The top of the line 2006 T&C Limited does not look much nicer than the base T&C LX. :confuse:
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    While having my 2002 T&C LX routine Oil and Oil Filter change today, I looked closely at a 2006 Chrysler T&C Limited MSRP $ 35, 735 option 29X Sirius Satellite radio $ 195 for bottom line $ 36,660.
    The T&C Limited IS MORE ELEGANT and LUXURIOUS inside than my friend's 2006 Sienna LE although the instrument panel of the Sienna is much more attractive.
    The T&C Touring and its clone GC SXT are NOT as attractive inside as is the Sienna LE but the DC minivans still have the most attractive exterior styling and the most well designed power sliding doors. ;)
  • tc2k4tc2k4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 T&C and the same thing happens. Mine will close until it gets to the "pop-open" point then stops. It has been rainy lately, so maybe it is weather related?
  • alanataliealanatalie Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 T&C and just cleaned off the terminals to my battery and now I have the same issue as you are describing. Now my stereo does not work, and the equalizer lights just keep flashing, even when the car is off. Did you ever get yours resolved, and if so, how? What was the cause?
  • ellis5ellis5 Member Posts: 2
    My 2002 Town and Country had the exact same problem. I was having battery problems and after the battery went dead I found that the speedometer had pegged out. By pushing in the trip counter with the engine off it made the entire dash go through a system check and reset the gauges. Something I thought might cost me a fortune ended up not costing me a dime. Thanks Thanks Thanks for posting this on the forum. That someone was me !!!!!
  • sandrubiessandrubies Member Posts: 1
    I did not get an owners manual when I bought this mini-van and the radio and cig lighter went out and I can not find the fuse box under the dash....I was told it is in the engine compartment but when I looked under the lid I did not notice any fuses listed as a radio fuse......any help here?

    Todd
  • vospvosp Member Posts: 1
    I just tried it with my 2001 Town and Country. The lights flash through different codes
    and the needles dance, and in the end the needle ends up where it is supposed to.
    Thanks!
  • djfowlerdjfowler Member Posts: 2
    I was experiencing the same water on the floor of the passenger seat problem in my 2003 Town & Country Limited. I took it to the dealer thinking it was a problem with the A/C drainage. After several attempts to fix the A/C drain problem the water on the floor kept appearing. It turned out that it wasn't the A/C drain afterall. Under the plastic trimwork below the passenger door there is a plastic pipe which holds the windshield washer fluid going to the rear window of the van. Two sections of pipe are connected together right in that area of the van. Apparently, the joint started leaking at it was Windshield washer fluid that was pooling on the floor. You might check that out.
  • kjtodkjtod Member Posts: 1
    I have a T&C 2001 Limited and this morning I was running the heat, it started to get a little hot so I turned the heat off using the power button, but within 2 seconds the fan on the passenger side came on very loudly and it continued to run blowing out cool air. I've never experienced this before. I parked the van and went to work and came back out at lunch time and started it up and the fan came right on eventhough the power to the air/heat was off, has anyone experienced this? if so what was the outcome?
  • djfowlerdjfowler Member Posts: 2
    I had the same thing happen on my T&C 2003 Limited. It was a defective Blower Regulator Module. It cost me something like $50 for the part.
  • harryliuusaharryliuusa Member Posts: 22
    Happened to me several times.
    I believe the trick is on the computer. Once the battery is dead, some settings are screwed up at the same time. it always happen.

    The solution: Keep the circuitry alive by putting a backup battery while disconnect the battery. this works only if the battery is not totally dead. The charge left may not enough to fire up the engine but it stiil keeping the memory. Hopefully, the battery is not totally dead. if yes, you have to go through the hussle every time.
  • dawg81dawg81 Member Posts: 4
    2001 T&C, LXI:
    Same thing--It just started this week. My T&C has automatic climate control, and when the POWER button is off, the blower up inside the dash is going full blast. When I turn the fan control knob, the AC goes on (at least that is ok and the temperture setting function in both heat and A/c mode.)
    The blower will not stop

    I though the programming got scrambled. No clue as of yet. Any ideas?

    Thank in Advance!
    dawgz81
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    Hi, dawg81,

    You might also want to ask the folks in the Climate Control Problems (heating / air conditioning): All Cars discussion.

    MODERATOR

    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review

  • pook2pook2 Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 T&C Limited has the same issue. The dealer told me I needed a new lock motor, which I replaced for about $400 and less than a week later the problem continued. I also have the problem with the windows not working one day and working the next. Did you resolve your issue?
  • kmcdonaldkmcdonald Member Posts: 25
    Hi all,

    I'm in the market for a somewhat loaded Town and Country minivan. I thought these 2 configs were very similiar (and the first is priced much lower) but now I'm not so sure. So now i'm wondering what do I lose with the first? or what does the extra $$$ on the second buy me?

    First:

    06 T&C Touring Signature 'P' pkg with:
    XAP Power Pedals
    CVV Front center Console

    Second:

    06 T&C Touring 'K' pkg with:
    AJD Leather pkg
    AFF Luxury pkg
    RB1 DVD/NAV Stereo
    XRV Rear Video
    GWA SunRoof

    Basically I thought the signature 'P' pkg had mostly everything the Luxury and Leather pkgs have plus more. But now I'm not so sure.

    Also if I did endup wanting the 'loaded K' pkg, It's almost as much as a similiarly equiped Limited. What would the following config buy me for a little more?

    06 T&C Limited 'X' pkg with:
    XRV Rear Video
    GWA Power SunRoof

    The one feature I know the limited has is the driver seat/mirror/radio memory, which I'd like, but if that's all there is I'm not sure it's worth the $$$.

    Thanks

    Kyle
  • aaron_taaron_t Member Posts: 301
    The Touring K package + those options has more equipment than the Signature Seires, mainly in the luxury package. Without the luxury package, the K package costs more because the Sig is discounted. The Luxury package includes these things over the Sig package:

    3 Overhead Storage Bins
    Automatic Headlamps
    Driver's Automatic-Dimming Exterior Mirror
    Electrolumenescent Instrument Cluster
    Fog Lamps
    Body-Color/Chrome Front Fascia
    Infinity(TM) Speakers
    Lower Bodyside Body-Color Cladding
    Overhead Rail System
    ParkSense(TM) Rear Park Assist System
    Power Adjustable Pedals
    Body-Color/Chrome Rear Fascia
    Automatic-Dimming Rearview Mirror
    Removable Center Front Seat Console
    Security Alarm

    The leather package includes a few things like automatic 3-zone climate instead of manual 3-zone climate control, power pass seat, and EVIC.

    Much of that can only be had in the premium group or the Limited.

    Now, the Signature is a better value because you essentially get the NAV radio for free. It isn't the best OEM NAV on the market. However, you cannot get some of the options included in the leather or lux groups on the regular Touring K. Also, the Signature series is 2-tone beige leather vs. the Leather group is one color, either grey or neutral. Sig has an exclusive Sunset Bronze color (I think that color rocks, but I like orange), but other colors are limted.

    In summary, the Sig is a great deal, but if you want more equipment, the K + options or Limited are theonly ways to get them and you'll pay much more.
  • movieguru1970movieguru1970 Member Posts: 1
    About two weeks ago my T&C started to spit and sputter when we tried to start it in the morning. At first I took it as to the weather getting colder. Then Tuesday of this week we went to start the van and it would not kick over. My neighbor had to come over and jump it. It took awhile, but it started. On the way to the garage it ran fine and at the gaurage they put it on the dianostic computer and couldn't come up with anything. They thought it was the fuel injecters being dirty. We filled the tank up and put in STP fuel injector cleaner as suggested by the mechanics. For the last two days it would turn over but the engine ran rough until it warmed up then it ran fine. Now as of today we went out to start the van, it acted like it wanted to start but it didn't . Tried to jump start it several times, but this time it would not kick over. Unfortunately, we had to have the van towed. They can't take a look my van until Monday so I was wondering if anyone else experienced this problem and if so what was the solution and about how much did it cost to fix? I just spent $800.00 for a tune up, oil change and fluids changed.Now in the last two days I've spent $140.00 for the tow and to be told they couldn't find anything. HELP!!!!!!!!! You can email me directly at Movieguru1970@aol.com with any suggestions.
  • dawg81dawg81 Member Posts: 4
    Dear DJFOWLER:

    Thank you! Where in the dash board is the module. How do you replace it?

    dawg81 :)
  • barnes3barnes3 Member Posts: 1
    Thank you for your advice. Our 01 Dodge Grand Caravan got a new battery and a few days later we noticed the speedometer needle was on the wrong side of the peg and thus not working. The mech told us he'd have to pull the dash to flip it back at $65/hr or replace the sensor for $120. We read your advice about the Trip button self test and tried it. I am happy to report that the needle corrected itself--for free might I add. Thank you so much for sharing your findings with the rest of us.
  • tisnarttisnart Member Posts: 5
    2001 T&C AWD LIMITED- I just purchased a K&N air filter and am extremly satisfied with an increase[very noticable] in responce and torque from the engine from a stand still. They also advertise a increase in fuel milage but I see only a marginal increase in the distance traveled on a tank full of gas. $60 bucks Canadian
  • tisnarttisnart Member Posts: 5
    2001 T&C Limited AWD- I was also having battery problems and turned out to be a tired battery which I replaced. I to would be faced with a dead battery after a door was left open or a interior light was left on. The van is equipped with a system which shuts the power modual down after 15 minutes of currant draw to protect the battery from becoming completly drained. At first I thought this system was not working but after charging the battery and having it load tested properly, it was indicated that the battery was no good. My mechanic did a load check on the fully charged battery and it passed the output test at 9 volts with about 450amps. Only when he applied the load test a second time did the battery fail miserably at 9 volts with only 135 amps. The first battery draw test takes the residual charge off[like leaving a lighton or a door open] and the second test reviels the true strength of the battery. This was the original battery at about 4 years 60,000kms service, so I was not surprised that I was in line for a new battery. AS a sidebar to my battery issue, I must add that when I tried to crank the engine with a low battery, the voltage spike to the BCM was enough to wipe the programing out and my memory seat/mirror feature would no longer work. I had to pay DC to reprogram/Flash the memory in the BCM. This happened twice before I figured out the battery was no good. I paid more for two reprogram services than the new 1000amp battery cost.
  • plasticsgeekplasticsgeek Member Posts: 2
    Same thing happened to me on the Penna. Turnpike, 550 miles into a 600 mile trip. It was OK on the Tpk, but overheated going thru toll booth. I'm technical enought to see the fan wasn't running, but not enough to know why. A great dealer in Hatboro (?) PA fixed it quickly (and reasonable $$) by replacing a relay that he said was attached to the frame somewhere behind the right front wheel. Thank God for an honest dealer who could have held me for ransom far from home.
  • plasticsgeekplasticsgeek Member Posts: 2
    I have identical problem, and all the dealer can say is "it didn't do it for us". They said if it starts, runs 3 seconds and then stops, it means the computer does not recognize the chip in the key and thinks the van is being stolen. First time they replaced the main brain ($500 plus $286 "labor"+ $38 towing), second event they replaced "the alarm brain" for $300 + $175 labor. Next they replaced the ignition switch for more $$ and the problem keeps happening. They then used my van for 2 weeks every time they had to run for parts. Said they had no problems. A few days later, I did. I removed, cleaned and put back every fuse and relay in the fuse block, and had no trouble for almost 6 months, but as I write the car hasn't started for 3 days. I asked the dealer to send out a mechanic with his computer, but they refused. If I have it towed again, it will probably work when it gets there. Also, when this problem is happening, most of the instruments don't lite up or work, and the driver's door does not make the interior lights go on. I called the Chevy dealer, but they don't have a computer to diagnose Chrysler problems. I hope somebody knows what the problem is.
  • curiouscplcuriouscpl Member Posts: 1
    In our humble opinion, if you have the money get the Limited with the DVD Player and Sunroof.

    We've had a 1998 T&C, a 2001 Grand Caravan ES and now the 2005. It is the best car we have ever owned. Better than our Hondas, Acuras and anything from the US.

    On the Tuesday after Labor Day 2004, we went off to our local Honda dealer and put down a $1,000 deposit on a 2005 Honda Oddy Touring with NAV & RES, black or tan. When we went to the Chicago auto show on Valentine's Day we ran into our Chrysler/Dodge friend who was offer a great deal on a new T&C. Sale price + Loyality Discount + Auto Show special, any way, we jumped. We asked for and received our deposit back, but as of March 16th, the Oddy still wasn't in stock.

    ...and btw, the Oddy was full sticker w. no dikering!
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