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Thanks for your help!
Are you the same Scott Canty that used to play Williams Trivia?
Ignore this message if it's not you.
Just curious,
Steve
If you get the Bobst Super AMG Tuner Edition, you get 2 regular keys and 3 valet keys.
Other than that, you can get as many keys as you want. You want 10? No problem. When you make your offer, just tell the salesman that you want a certain number of keys and, if your offer is accepted, he will give them to you.
Good luck, friends, and Godspeed.
Now we're never going learn what drift racing is!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Best wishes. I'll miss your comments.
Condolences on your family illness.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
No reason to scream. Who paid for the advertising before LAM costs started showing up? Probably the manufacturer or the dealer. Now that cost is broken out. Why not do it the way it was before? Every dealer has an invoice cost that is paid to the manufacturer, then there overhead costs.
Maybe we'll soon see payroll costs, their electic bill, property taxes, etc. etc. broken out.
No reason to break advertising costs out other than to confuse the customer. That's my point.
Knowing those numbers is great... using them in your negotiations is pointless.. The dealer knows what he will sell the car for... telling him his invoice price or costs will only serve to confuse the situation.. Figure out the dollar number you want to buy the car for and use that.. forget "invoice up" or "cost up" negotiations..
Then, if they try to add crap onto your offer, you can say.. "I made my offer.. it is $XX,XXX, and that is it."
regards,
kyfdx
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I tried the final out-the-door price approach and ran in to a dealer that "forgot" to include sales tax, which he asked for a few days later. It got ugly.
As for what people really pay for a vehicle is subjective. Most vehicles with different option packages and options can have as much as a $10,000 cost difference. It is hard to compare the same options on vehicles because so few are equipped identically. Even with manufacturer price increases during the year and rebates changing so often, a car built in March will cost more than the identical car built in September.
People need to realize that 95% of the people on the New Car side of the Car business are honest hard working people. There are very few are shysters left. Like I said the business has changed so much. One of the problems I think is the way new cars depreciate, often quicker than people pay down their loans, it gives people the impressions they were taken advantage of when they try to buy another car 2 years later when they took a 6 year loan and they put no money down and they are 10k upside down. Just my opinion.
The only way to succeed in sales is to build repeat and referral business. If you bury someone in a car, you will never see them again or any of their friends. Just not a smart way to do business and most serious car salesmen know this.
"its a possibility. lets pick out the car you want, and i'll show you the invoice. that way, you can determine how much of a profit i've earned"
this answers the question in an affirmative, and also lets them know subtlely that you expect some profit. if you still have to sell it for invoice, so be it, but you have at least made an effort to instill some value in the transaction.
i can think of more effective ways to hold gross, but they can be pretty harsh...lol.
When we bought our last car, I had the model of car, the options we wanted, and the OTD price written on paper. When I first met our salesman, I said, "Hi. Here is our offer. Do you accept?"
I'm glad to hear there are sales people who like the way we do business.
Long story
I also did exactly that with an '01 Accord, got my price, and traded in a vehicle I was leasing. Because it was a leased trade-in and I got more for the trade-in than the remaining residual, I actually purchased it from the leasing company and I should have been charged sales tax.
I even questioned that fact and the dealer said no.
I get a phone call a couple days later and they said you owe us $1100 in sales tax. I told them, no I don't, we agreed on an OTD price. He said "read your purchase contract". Which I did and legally he had me. The contract fine print says "no other oral agreements have been made" AND "dealer has the right to come back and ask for ttl fees if they were incorrectly estimated."
I had to go in and sit down with the salesman, F&I guy, and some other manager and luckily the salesman was an older fella who was on my side. So they ate the $1100.
The moral of the story is "whatever is agreed upon verbally, make sure it's in the contract"
Since I am both buying and selling witihin 1 year, the loss of value is more important than the price itself. I have some very basic questions that I would appreciate if someone could advise me on:
- Do you pay tax on used cars (in California)?
- If a car lists for 30.000, what do you actually pay?
- What could I expect to get back after 1 year?
- Can you lease for less than 1 year?
- You you do a deal with a car dealer on taking it back at a pre-determined price after 1 year (provided you treat it well, of course)
- How much should I be prepared to pay in insurance?
- What are the most common ways to cheat inexperienced people like me?
- Other advise/things to watch out for?
- ErlingMM
And your not going to know what you like until you drive em' ... some folks like an Explorer, some prefer a Pilot, some will live or die for a 4-runner and some would rather have a Jeep - it's personal taste, period ..... you need to get out and drive the different sedans and the SUV's and get a handle on em' .....
Taxes.? everyone has to pay taxes, so thats a given .. insurance.? you gotta have it .... what's a good deal.? drop the info over at "Real-World Trade-In Values" and I can tell ya ... don't get too carried away over there, cuz' we get a little busy ..........................
Terry.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Granted I should have asked for a rider that said something like "negotiated OTD price was $X" and maybe strike the clause about "dealer can come back for add'l fees if estimated ttl was wrong"
Needless to say, people do make mistakes, so I never negotiate like that any more. Just final dealer price plus state ttl fees.
He offered an OTD price. They accepted. He gave them a check. That's all there is to it.
Do you have a good idea what kind of car you want to buy?
If so, go to the DG where people discuss that type of car and ask people if they know a good dealer in CA that you can work with. If you find a decent person to work with, you might be treated fairly. You may not get the absolute rock-bottom price, but you might not do too bad.
If I offer an OTD price for a car and the dealer accepts my offer, then I figure we have made a deal. After I give them my check and they give me the car, I figure things are done.
For the dealer to come back later and whine that they need an extra $1100 is pretty poor.
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I went back and re-read the post and I'm in full agreement that (stupid) dealer should be responsible for the 1100.00 mistake they made.
BTW, I have met many a customer whose word and handshake proved to be worthless.
Of course, and that's shoddy as well. But you can't control the behavior of another person. You can only control your own and hope that others learn by example.
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The people I deal with who are the most distrustful and leary of everything are usually the ones that can't be trusted themselves.
Easy to get cynical, especially in this business.
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In a hypothetical situation, generally, what would an Accord EX 4 cylinder cost to lease for a year? These list for about $24K right?
Mark